Today I did something to my bike thread...

LollipopJimmy

Does widening the distance between the cable ties help at all? Also is it actually touching the frame or just getting really close?

54and56

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

Does widening the distance between the cable ties help at all?

I tried stretching the distance between the cable ties thinking that would narrow the silicone housing a little and it probably does but not by a material amount and the cable ties keep reverting to their "natural" position after a short while.

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

Also is it actually touching the frame or just getting really close?

Yes, it's rubbing the frame quite noticeably. Its enough to stop a free spinning pedal from getting past the chainstay. Applying a little pressure on the pedal moves it past the chainstay but you can really feel the resistance as the silicone housing is squeezed.

cyclocross!

Bit of a nuclear option but how thick is the silicone. Room to shave on both sides? Could you go with the double sided tape and leave the battery compartment on the open side?

cyclocross!

cyclocross! wrote: »

Bit of a nuclear option but how thick is the silicone. Room to shave on both sides? Could you go with the double sided tape and leave the battery compartment on the open side?

Will it fit and work on the outside at any point?

54and56

cyclocross! wrote: »

Bit of a nuclear option but how thick is the silicone. Room to shave on both sides?

I think this might be the best route to go. Need to be careful not to shave it so thin it fails to do it's job of holding the sensor in place but can't see an alternative if I want to use the silicon holder.

If shaving doesn't work I guess I'll just stick it on the bike and see how it goes.

Frustrating!!

54and56

cyclocross! wrote: »

Will it fit and work on the outside at any point?

I could mount it on the other side of the crank but I reckon it wouldn't take long for it to be kicked off as I clip in or out.

If shaving doesn't work I might give this a go.

cletus

This isn't a solution to your problem, I know.

Is it a soft silicone case? If so, you'll struggle to shave it to any meaningful degree. Sanding would be difficult too

iwillhtfu

I wouldn't shave it, silicone doesn't fail gradually it will just pop out one day.

Stick the sensor on with the 3m tape provided and forget about the silicone case.

cletus

iwillhtfu wrote: »

I wouldn't shave it, silicone doesn't fail gradually it will just pop out one day.

Stick the sensor on with the 3m tape provided and forget about the silicone case.

That would be my thinking too

54and56

cletus wrote: »

That would be my thinking too

Fair enough, I'll defer to your (collective) knowledge which is exactly why I asked the question.

Bit annoying as the reason I chose a Wahoo was to use the silicon housing but c'est la vie. Better to stick it on and use it than mess up the silicon or try something else which would either damage the bike or result in the sensor quickly being lost.

Thanks for all your input guys.

54and56

iwillhtfu wrote: »

I wouldn't shave it, silicone doesn't fail gradually it will just pop out one day.

Stick the sensor on with the 3m tape provided and forget about the silicone case.

The job is Oxo.

Thanks for all the advice.

I wonder is the clearance between the crank and chainstay on the Trek Domane less than "standard" if such a standard exists or less than was typically the norm given the Domane's geometry allows the use of up to 38mm tyres?

iwillhtfu

54and56 wrote: »

The job is Oxo.

Thanks for all the advice.

I wonder is the clearance between the crank and chainstay on the Trek Domane less than "standard" if such a standard exists or less than was typically the norm given the Domane's geometry allows the use of up to 38mm tyres?

Possible alright but that unit is quite bulky also. The garmin equivalent looks to be half the depth.

54and56

iwillhtfu wrote: »

Possible alright but that unit is quite bulky also. The garmin equivalent looks to be half the depth.

There really isn't much in it. The Wahoo is maybe 1mm thicker max but when you add the silicone cover it's 1mm or 2mm more than the available space on the Trek Domane anyway. Will likely be different for other bikes, perhaps slightly older designs as I'm sure Wahoo will have originally designed it to work with the silicone cover in the gap between the crank and chainstay on most bikes.

iwillhtfu

54and56 wrote: »

There really isn't much in it. The Wahoo is maybe 1mm thicker max but when you add the silicone cover it's 1mm or 2mm more than the available space on the Trek Domane anyway. Will likely be different for other bikes, perhaps slightly older designs as I'm sure Wahoo will have originally designed it to work with the silicone cover in the gap between the crank and chainstay on most bikes.

Yikes I'd have put the saving on it being much slimmer. :eek::D

cletus

I didn't do anything to my bikes as such, but I did do something to the place where I'll be doing things to my bikes in the future

From the door looking in...


From the workbench looking out...

magicbastarder

i am envious of your bandsaw.

cletus

It is a Startrite, from maybe the late '70's. Great saw, in fairness. Heavy bastard.

Raymzor

Looking for help please. I noticed my rear wheel moves from left to right a bit. I’ve tighten the cone nuts which rest against the faces of the inner race of the wheel bearings (sealed roller bearings) so the movement must be worn rollers. My problem is I don’t know how to proceed with disassembling? Picture 4 shows 2 recesses on a sleeve on the outer race of the drive end bearing, but inside the freewheel. I’ve made a socket to put in these recesses and tried to loosen anticlockwise-didn’t succeed in loosening. I’ve tried to hit the outer

Raymzor

Part 2

cletus

You'll need to remove the freehub first, I think

Raymzor

cletus wrote: »

You'll need to remove the freehub first, I think

My home made socket needs to be improved!

cletus

It's usually a 10mm Allen key on the drive side of the hub that loosens it, I think

Raymzor

cletus wrote: »

It's usually a 10mm Allen key on the drive side of the hub that loosens it, I think

Unfortunately an Allen key doesn’t work in this case. It looks like a shimano freehub. It looks as if the whole free hub is threaded into the wheel hub.

cletus

Are you sure it doesn't come off like this

https://youtu.be/SZZdB_P3mmc

Raymzor

cletus wrote: »

Are you sure it doesn't come off like this

https://youtu.be/SZZdB_P3mmc

Made progress! I was able to remove the non drive end wheel bearing by tapping everything out from the the drive side.

You are right Cletus, the freehub can now be removed with a hex key from the non drive side. It looks like a14mm hex key is needed! I can identify the bearings at this stage but I have to yet to figure out the freehub!

cletus

I put this bike in my shed today. It's my wife's old bike from maybe mid to late '90's. The plan is to put it back on the road for my almost teenage eldest son, who is growing at a rate of knots. I can't keep him in shoes, don't mind bikes.




It's a Sunday, though. So I made a cup of tea, went out to the shed and 'contemplated' the bike for a while. You don't want to rush these things.


This is my mug, by the way. I love it

iwillhtfu

Not so much to my bike more for my bike.

A post ride wash/maintenance stand actually quite handy.



Pedal mount wall hangers also quite handy

ED E

Commuter, didnt spot the aperture was wide open until all was tidied up. As you can see the saddle was a little....lopsided. Think it just slowly deformed. Anyways not so comfortable on rough surfaces.




Popped a new Selle Italia cheapo (£35) yoke on it. Probably slightly wider than I should use but its for very short runs. Hopefully improves things.

iwillhtfu

That poor saddle has been crying out for mercy for a good while I'd say.

ED E

The commuter tends to get minimal TLC