the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Brian? · 27-09-2021 02:15PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117945628#Comment_117945628

my first guess is you’ve cross threaded it. The thread is very fine. It should go in by hand almost all the way.

Take it off and inspect the threads, if they are ok then clean and grease the shell before trying again.

Coomkeen · 27-09-2021 03:01PM

Sorry if I wasn't clear enough.

The BB bearing assembly itself goes in fine. Smooth all the way. Right hand thread on the drive side, and the locking ring left hand thread on the left side.

All nice and smooth.

It's when I put the pedals on that it looks wrong.

On the drive side the BB shaft comes out to within, probably, a couple of mm of the bottom of the hole in the pedal.

On the left side though there's a big gap between the pedal and the BB. Maybe that's how it should be, but it doesn't seem right.

Of course on the drive side that gap is masked from sight by the chain wheels.

Paul Kiernan · 27-09-2021 03:31PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117912726#Comment_117912726

Is it hydraulic? The 105's tend to buzz due to lack of tension from the brake cable! Does it stop when you grasp or put a bit of pressure on the lever? It's annoying but probably nothing wrong.

Brian? · 27-09-2021 04:33PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117946046#Comment_117946046

Ah right. You’re much better off than I thought.

The shaft you’re attaching the crank arm to is tapered (the pedal attaches to said arm). So if you tighten the bolt with appropriate gumption it’ll sit home on the shaft. Should move it a little. If proper gumption has been applied, you don’t have to muller it on, you’re in business and it should be fine.

Even though the taper should always be the same, it isn’t.

Coomkeen · 27-09-2021 05:18PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117946472#Comment_117946472

Yep, tapered ends to the shaft.

Always seemed daft to me, from an engineering perspective.

"Even though the taper should always be the same, it isn’t."

Think that may be what it is. Don't like forcing a taper in too hard 'cos of getting it out again 😂

But guess in this case I just have to 'go for it'.

magicbastarder · 27-09-2021 05:22PM

just make sure it's greased beforehand. or it could seize.

Brian? · 27-09-2021 05:45PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117946653#Comment_117946653

Yeah. I can’t give any better advice than:

tighten it until it’s tight. Don’t go mad on it.

light bit of grease.

stevencn88 · 27-09-2021 08:04PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117946188#Comment_117946188

No it's mechanical. Works perfectly so I figured it wasn't anything serious, but every so slightly irritating alright.

magicbastarder · 27-09-2021 08:23PM

i have something vaguely similar - my left shifter (ultegra 6800, 3 years old) makes a faint high pitched rattle/buzz when cycling on rough roads; i checked and there's no slack in the brake cable, but was also told that there are some plastic coverings inside which can come ever sol slightly loose and rattle - and they're not really user serviceable.

i was also told there was not a hope of getting a replacement unless i go secondhand, so to get used to it...

magicbastarder · 27-09-2021 08:25PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117945144#Comment_117945144

might be best if you take the wheel off and take a photo of the cassette - as i believe 7 speed was also available as a freewheel rather than a cassette, so i'm not sure what configuration the wheel would be?

Wildly Boaring · 27-09-2021 08:25PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117947263#Comment_117947263

Mine are mechanical too.

Got the same issue before. Turned out there was a rub on a brake cable and it was damaged just where it went into the frame. Meant it wasn't retracting totally. Caused the little vibration

magicbastarder · 27-09-2021 08:34PM

was there any noticeable slack in the brake lever action, as it took up the slack in the cable before engaging?

i keep long fingering stripping the brake cables back to see if that's a cause for me.

Tombo2001 · 29-09-2021 04:12PM

Can I use a 33/37 tyre inside a 32 tube?

Thanks.

cletus · 29-09-2021 04:30PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117955164#Comment_117955164

I presume you mean that the other way round, a 33/37 tube in a 32 tyre. Should be no issue

wersal gummage · 03-10-2021 02:56PM

Mudguard question if anyone has any input I'd be grateful.

Have full length mudguards on the bike, steel or aluminium or something sturdy anyway.

I have had problems almost since day one with the little connectors that attach the stays to the mudguards, they are fiddly and constantly coming off, have them tightened properly etc.. See photo, after hitting a fairly solid pot hole a few days ago (couldn't avoid due to traffic right alongside unfortunately) has popped off again.

Anyway, is there an alternative way to fix the mudguards to the bike? I've seen portland design works where the stays are sort of inverted and the "V" or "U" part of the stay goes over the top of the guard, fixed on with a little bracket, and the individual ends of the stays are then connected via a tab sort of thing to the eyelet. I like the idea but not sure if I can find stays that will go around my mudguards as thr Portland ones seem a very specific shape, I've seen SKS branded ones too.

Before I go trying that, are there any other ways to attach stays to guards? Really not happy with current set up.

Thanks

20211002_115741.jpg

padyjoe · 05-10-2021 12:15PM

I got a new bike, to me anyway. I've never seen a tru axle before. Both of them were loose, I felt a play in them, the front is ok now, but a little play remains in the rear. I don't have a torque wrench and don't want to overtighten them. The derailleur side was loose too, tightened the screw, tru axle in and there was a pop midway in, I thought having broken something but not. I'd say, I have check the wheel axle for a play as well.

The old bike has qr levers, they are tight once in.

The other niggle the bb. I don't know why it has been loosened, the preload was not set with the end cap. I'm stuck as I've no Shimano tool to set. There's a movement in the bb (the bike claimed as a low mileage) for sure. It begs for the question why it was touched: it won't get buggered in few hundred kms.

The bike is a 2020 Attain SL 105 disc.

Edit:

The rear axle locknut is loose on the cog side, so the cassette has to come off to get access to it.

nicksnikita · 05-10-2021 03:11PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117979099#Comment_117979099

Maybe drop it into a shop or go to a mate for a check over.

Sounds like things just need tightening up etc.

All very do-able if you're interested in getting some tools and tackling it yourself..Post again if you need advice for same

padyjoe · 05-10-2021 05:58PM

I can do it myself, without crank tool is impossible. I try to source it tomorrow and after having got some rest, I attempt to do the check over.

My 1st experience with a 2ndhand bike, I've certainly different standards to the 1st owner. (I bought this from the 2nd keeper, who didn't use the bike at all after he had bought it.) What it's strange to me: how the locknut work itself loose on the rear axle, it has 2 different thru axles (Cube rear, Never..something branded front), and a bottom bracket play.

Darkglasses · 05-10-2021 08:09PM

Got my bike serviced lately, and they had warned me that the back wheel hub was a bit worn out. On my ride today, the red part i'm touching wobbled free of the hub. Is the back wheel dead, or was something just not tightened correctly?

Brian? · 05-10-2021 08:48PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117981173#Comment_117981173

What did they do in the service? I wouldn’t expect them to service the wheel hubs, but maybe they did and didn’t tighten it properly. I doubt the wheel is dead. The part most likely to die are the bearing and I don’t think this would the result

Darkglasses · 05-10-2021 08:52PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117981318#Comment_117981318

They re-greased the bearings and I think replaced the bearings themselves (it's not a cartridge bearing wheelset)

magicbastarder · 05-10-2021 09:08PM

is that just a dust cap?

magicbastarder · 05-10-2021 09:09PM

anyway, red card for still having the pie plate there.

Darkglasses · 05-10-2021 09:40PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117981399#Comment_117981399

I got alarmed because there is grease behind it, but maybe it's nothing 😳

magicbastarder · 05-10-2021 09:42PM

what make/model is it? should be possible to find an exploded diagram of it.

gn3dr · 05-10-2021 10:06PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117841085#Comment_117841085

Can you install the axle fully forward into the dropouts? - then it has nowhere to go when the chain pulls it forward

Brian? · 06-10-2021 06:21AM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117981339#Comment_117981339

Ah ok. Well then they did a poor job of replacing that cap. Every type of wheel is different, some just pop in and some are screw in. I’d say they put too much grease in and it popped off. I’d bring it back to them.

purple hands · 06-10-2021 07:53AM

Sure this must have been asked before, but the search function is gone to $hite

Am I mad trying to fit a child seat to a road bike with 700 x 25 tyres? Was looking at the front mounted Thule Yepp Nexxt Mini.

https://www.thule.com/en-gb/child-bike-seats/front-mounted-child-bike-seats/thule-yepp-nexxt-mini-_-12080111

Squidgy Black · 06-10-2021 11:25AM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117982193#Comment_117982193

Would imagine it’d make the bike extremely twitchy and front heavy, probably not too safe for the little one either, nor comfortable for yourself as the front facing seats are designed for city bikes with a more upright position

padyjoe · 06-10-2021 05:37PM

BB-RS500, I guess it's a new bb time? What could have caused this? Overtightening or defective material? Is there better b I can upgrade to or this is fine?

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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