the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Seth Brundle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117816475#Comment_117816475

I was wrong. I had been under the belief that mine was a short cage derailleur whereas my new LBS say it is a large one and can take a 32 tooth cassette so I have them swapping out the existing chain and cassette (I had already been having weird issues anyhow where it can occasionally feel slightly stiff in the mid range so am glad that it will be properly re-indexed & checked over as I don't have spare time this week to do it).

On my quest to garner more info, I came across this ready reckoner which I thought was pretty cool: http://www.ritzelrechner.de/?GR=DERS&KB=34,50&RZ=11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25,28&UF=2215&TF=80&SL=2.6&UN=KMH&DV=speed&GR2=DERS&KB2=34,50&RZ2=11,12,13,14,16,18,20,22,25,28,32&UF2=2215

Brian?

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117824421#Comment_117824421

l say it because you’ve run out of space for spacers on your stem AND you can’t move your saddle back anymore. If the bike was the right size, I don’t think you’d need to max out either never mind both of them.

1 size doesn’t fit all, which is why you can adjust the things you have. But you have to be in the right range to start with.

are you sure about these adjustments?

magicbastarder

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117824495#Comment_117824495

would be much more useful if you knew the bike it came from - hangers come in many multiple shapes, and only a hyper detail aware bike mechanic would be able to say what that one is without further clues.

I took another couple of videos for their software to analyse, I think in total it told me to raise my seat by 2 cm before doing that I pushed the saddle forward a bit surprisingly their software hasn't recommended any changes to the saddle for and aft.

Thanks for video linked earlier in the thread he also has another good one about cleat positioning, after hearing him talk about it I really want to try out a midfoot cleat position.

Has anyone else tried a midfoot cleat position?

magicbastarder

you haven't yet mentioned the problem you were trying to fix.

if it told you to raise your saddle by 2cm (without qualifying that), i'd be immediately suspicious. i.e. from my own understanding it should probably tell you to raise it by no more than 1cm at a time.

ofthelord

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117824666#Comment_117824666

Hi magicbastarder,

the bike is a Orbea Terra bought new 2019.

I'm trying to work on my bikes myself these days cause i kinda enjoy it, and I'm frequently finding new things I have no idea about like the derailleur hanger.

Thanks.

magicbastarder

if you go to orbea's website, under 'gear' they have a spare parts link - worth looking there?

ofthelord

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117824915#Comment_117824915

Thanks a lot. You are correct it is listed on their spare parts page - of course it never crossed my mind to check the Orbea site. I'll look to order a new one online in the morning.

Thanks again.

D

Wildly Boaring

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117824796#Comment_117824796

Yeah I moved my cleats back far as I could after him.

Ended up having to drop seat 3 or 4mm with it.

I really like it now TBH.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117824826#Comment_117824826

 sorry I should have explained it better, it wasn't 2cm in one go it was over the course of the software analysing two videos of me on the bike. Their system assesses your flexibility before they start making suggestions, I chose a fitting profile they call performance and comfort so I guess they are looking for a balance between the two based on my body's flexibility.

Squidgy Black

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117825102#Comment_117825102

Is there something you're trying to fix with your existing position? Too much pressure on the hands, or discomfort in your legs/knees/back etc?

Reason I ask is I think you might be putting too much blind faith into a DIY video of a bike fit being analysed by software with no real human intervention and you've now pretty much maxed out a frame reach wise and drop reduction wise that you previously thought fit you by Canyon's measurements system.

Might end up doing yourself more harm than good if there's not a specific issue you're trying to fix, and if there is get a proper bike fit before it gets worse

To be honest when I had the bike out on the road I felt when I was in the drops it was hard to see the road ahead and more recently when I had the bike on the trainer It felt painful and there was definitely too much pressure on my hands.

I'm happy that the software has gotten me into a better position and today I did a 40 minute workout and it definitely felt more comfortable.

Wildly Boaring

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117825200#Comment_117825200

Right you're more comfortable after raising the bars to the top.

The saddle going back and the bars going forward will not aid comfort and will put load back onto the hands/arms.

Think about the pressures on your body........

A more stretched out position puts weight on the arms and is using more of your core to stabilise you.

A less stretched out position puts more weight on your ass and is less aerodynamic.

So higher, closer bars are generally comfier and less aerodynamic.

Weepsie

Anyone have bright ideas for a front wheel that when brake applied (SRAM force disc) can still rock back and forth a little.

I really don't think it's the headset, there doesn't seem to be any movement in that at all. It's a new caliper. a new rotor too. They're prime rr50 disc wheels, with QR adapters, so thought it might be something there or something real simple I'm overlooking. It still stops me fine, but it's bugging me.

magicbastarder

on my disc brake bike, there's always been a little rock on braking; the wheel pulls ever so slightly to the left under braking. has never caused me any issues.

Euro Fred

Can anyone recommend somewhere to repair/ touch up an aluminium frame?

I took my sons bike to the Guarda for ID marking and they wrecked the paintwork on the top tube.

Not sure where you are based but you could try taking it to these guys they respray cars but at the end of the day metal is metal.

https://hillsidecarspray.com/

Weepsie

Genesis give you a little bit of paint to touch up frames. I didn't know what it was, assumed it was grease for the headset or something, but when I got another frame I was told my the seller what it was

Roadtoad

Tyres Tyres Tyres

What are the sensible options for touring / sportif (typically 80-160 km days) on a road bike? I'm more interested in robustness and wear than racing performance.

What's the tyre of choice among the Audax fraternity?

My go-to tyre has always been 700x25 mm Gaterskins, which are due for a change, and I'm wondering whether anything new has come along and reset the standard.

ARX

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117774842#Comment_117774842

Update on this: after an increasingly tetchy exchange, the retailer has agreed to a refund. The turning point seems to have been when I pointed out that I've spent a lot of money with them over the last few years. I probably will be looking elsewhere in future though, unless they have what I want way cheaper than elsewhere or it's low-value stuff with no moving parts.

It looks as though Shimano pedals are prone to the pin holding them together coming out (see links below). It seem to happen to 105 pedals as well as the lower-end stuff. Has anyone here had this happen?

https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/13016630/shimano-clipless-pedal-fault-r550-spd-sl

https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/3gi711/has_anyone_had_a_pin_start_coming_out_of_a/

https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/ml14uw/shimano_pedal_pd_r7000_would_not_clip_in_randomly/

https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/954746-shimano-spd-sl-5700-pedals-loose-binding-pin-excess-float.html

https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/13016630/shimano-clipless-pedal-fault-r550-spd-sl

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117831664#Comment_117831664

Sorry I can't answer your question directly, this website might help it compares the rolling resistance of different tyres you can put in your current model and then compare it with others.

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews

tigerboon

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117826376#Comment_117826376

Open the allen bolts holding the stem in position. Tighten the bolt on top of the steerer tube a bit (quarter turn or so). You're basically pulling the fork up slightly so that's why you need to open the stem bolts. If you over do it then the steering will be stiff so as usual there's a bit of trial and error. Test with the front brakes pulled and then tighten up the stem bolts when it feels right. make sure your bars are in the correct position before tightening. Simple job, should only take a few minutes

jebidiah

Not fully bike related but... Tear on a brand new pannier bag, I've been offered a replacement so long as I "destroy this one appropriately". Wondering if anyone has experience with patching something like this?

Made from 300D Polyester Ripstop with TPU Coating, would I be able to get some kind of patch for that?

loyatemu

Gorilla Tape? Fixes everything in my experience.

daragh_

Horizontal Dropout Question.

I've just picked up an old Felt B12 TT Bike. 2013 Model. It's in really good nick and doesn't need a whole lot of TLC beyond new brake pads.

Put on a pair of Carbon Clinchers with standard QR skewers and I noticed that the rear dropouts are horizontal. Went for a quick test and somehow the wheel drifted off centre and ended up rubbing the frame. Loosened the sewer, recentred and came home before I did any damage.

Is the fix for this just having the Skewer really tight or is there something really obvious I'm missing.

patrickc

I got a major service done this week , new chainring, chain, bearings etc etc

took the bike out for a spin and when on top ring at the front and bottom ring on the rear cassette only the chain is not sitting right its like its going click click. The bike shop is closed for holidays now anyone any ideas what needs adjusting for those gears in particular?

magicbastarder

you mean you're going big ring at the front to small ring at the back?

patrickc

Yes the hardest gears possible if that makes sense?

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117831664#Comment_117831664

Jack Brown Mike Munchers are supposed to be very good for your described use. I’ve used their Race tyres and found them excellent. The Mile Muncher is the more robust model.. Usually reasonably priced on Planet X. Worth a try

Brian?

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117844667#Comment_117844667

The smallest sprocket on the back and the biggest ring on the front?