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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 937 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    Tidy. If you’re comfortable doing it, remove the caliper, remove the pads so they don’t get contaminated, clean the caliper and spray the pivots with wd40 or equivalent. She’ll be right as rain



  • Registered Users Posts: 937 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    he

    Here’s what I would try......remove tyre and warm it up. I’d leave mine in front of the fire for a bit but a hair drier might do the trick as well. Fit the tyre and inflate to approx.20psi. Roll the wheel around, pushing downwards on the tyre. Fully inflate. Never fails



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,130 ✭✭✭mosstin


    It snapped where the cage plate is connected to the rest of the derailleur. Cage plate itself is intact.



  • Registered Users Posts: 491 ✭✭Elvis Hammond


    RD is a pretty vulnerable component, so you'd have to be sure it hasn't been accidentally damaged.



  • Registered Users Posts: 282 ✭✭Acquiescence


    What are peoples opinions on replacing tyres individually?

    I've GP5000s front and rear, the front looks to have a lot left on it. There are literal chunks missing out of the rear, I've been meaning to change it for about 1000km. I think it was a dud tyre (to be read as I'm the bones of 90kg and spend most of my time on backroads).

    I have two new ones in front of me on the desk.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 313 ✭✭f1000


    this is my take - put the better tyre on the front. I do rotate tyres



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,947 ✭✭✭cletus


    Right folks, here's one for ye.


    Out for a cycle the other day, and I noticed what seemed to be a clicking from the crank/bottom bracket area while coasting.


    Had a look at it earlier on (I'm away from home, so no tools, stand etc). Watching the crank as the rear wheel is spinning, there is a slight bit of sway. I looked back at the cassette, and there is slight lateral movement while coasting (so the cassette isn't turning).


    I honestly can't say whether or not I've seen that before, or if it's new.


    Any suggestions?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,502 ✭✭✭hesker


    Is it the wheel that is swaying?


    And are you describing cassette wobble. That is normal enough if so


    BTW all noises sound like they are coming from the BB regardless. I have a knocking problem in my own bike atm. Suspecting rough wheel bearings



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,947 ✭✭✭cletus


    Could be cassette wobble, it's moving in a slightly elliptical motion. Doesn't seem loose or anything.



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,077 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    Take the cassette off, make sure the 10mm bolt that holds the free hub on is tight. Put the cassette back on and see it it’s any better.

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,033 ✭✭✭✭Richard Hillman


    Just want to give an update on my issue in case it helps anyone else. Thanks for the help btw.


    Essentially I wasn't overinflating the wheel. I was just using a hand pump and thinking I was pumping it up really hard but I wasn't really. I bought a foot pump with a pressure gauge, actually pumped it up as hard as it would go and the tyres popped into place. I lubed it up inside with some coconut oil before it. The noise of the pop was beautiful.

    Don't know how I will deal with it if I am out in the middle of nowhere without the footpump but it's a start.


    Cheers.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I'm trying to get a better bike fit and one of the most important steps is to measure the saddle height I know the suggested method is measure from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle. My seatpost has a measurement scale on the back I presume the various numbers in centimetres and millimetres refers to the distance from the bottom bracket the seatpost is made by canyon.

    Hope I explained that ok.



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,633 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Those markings are usually just distances on the seatpost from the minimum insertion point so you can easily measure changes



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,077 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    The critical thing is your knee angle at the bottom of the pedal stroke. There are apps you can film yourself on a turbo trainer that will allow you to make the correct adjustments. Is that something you can do?


    Or it’s actually really worthwhile splashing out on a proper bike fit.

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




  • Registered Users Posts: 8,232 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    If the clicking noise is present when coasting ( not pedalling), it's not the BB. It's your wheel bearings. Rear wheel most likely.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,947 ✭✭✭cletus


    It's not clicking in cadance with the wheel rotation, maybe every three revolutions of the wheel, which led me to think chain/front derailleur/crank.

    I can feel it on the crank arm, it's almost like a hitch or a catch



  • Moderators, Politics Moderators Posts: 39,366 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    Planning on changing my 11-28 casette to something a bit more sympathetic to climbing such as 11-30 or 11-32.

    To my knowledge, I have the short rear derailleur as part of my 105 groupset

    So my question is, whilst I know I need to use a longer chain so this will be replaced, will the casette fit with my current derailleur (maybe adjusting the B-tension screw) or do I need new hardware?

    Am I better off moving to the '30 or the '32 given that I do enjoy quick spins on normal terrain around Dublin/Kildare?



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,136 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    a 105 short cage (5800 anyway) has a stated max of 28 teeth, but i've seen it claimed many times that this is quite conservative and many people have gotten it to work with a 30 tooth cassette. i wouldn't risk 32 teeth with it though.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,502 ✭✭✭hesker


    Sounds like a problem with your cassette/chain/RD. Worn or needing adjustment?

    I solved my problem but I’m left with another. I’m trying to get a Shimano 11 speed groupset to play nice with a Campy type wheel/freehub using a new Miche cassette and new KMC chain. Perfect in all gears except when moving from cog 2 to 3 when on the big ring.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I recently came across the website myvelofit.com

    It's a bike fitting tool that uses Ai apparently it's been trained on data from thousands of previous bike fits.

    I've made the saddle height and set back changes it has recommended however it still wants me to move the saddle back 5mm

    However I think I might have reached the limit of my saddle setback range?

    It also wants me to increase my stem length by 10mm but I'll wait until the setback is done first before continuing. The good thing about the service is you can request a manual review by a qualified fitter.



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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,136 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    my gut reaction is the adjustments being suggested are too much. and yes, you can't push the saddle back any further. did you feel you were sitting too far forward to begin with?

    AI is not a panacea.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,502 ✭✭✭hesker


    That doesn’t sound right unless your bike is way too small for you.

    I like the bike fitter guy within this video. Fore aft saddle position is important to get the right balance between load on quads vs hamstrings. As well as weight balance between your hands and seat

    Edit: forgot the link. Neill Stanbury is the guy’s name

    It’s worth checking out his other videos too. Ultimately a face to face bike fit from a respected fitter is the best option.

    Post edited by hesker on


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Thanks I don't think the frame is too small for me, canyon used to have a detailed questionnaire on their website that asked you to measure your self in different places and then would suggest a size based on those measurements I'm a size small according to them.

    I definitely feel like I'm sitting better on the bike right now before making the adjustments before I was right up on the nose and had a lot of weight on my handlebars.

    It's still my intention to visit a reputable bike fitter when able.

    Just incase anyone wonders what the software does here is my video, also the garage isn't mine!

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ejuQ6AbL8weRjwKG6

    Post edited by [Deleted User] on


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,502 ✭✭✭hesker


    It might feel better because you’ve taken weight off your hands but that may not be the best way to go about it. You could end up over taxing your hamstrings and you’ll feel that on longer rides. Higher bar height could achieve the same without this issue or develop your core strength to cope.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I definitely need to improve my core strength, unfortunately however I don't think it's possible to raise my handlebars any further my stem is already at its maximum height.

    Someone I know did suggest a seatpost with a longer lay back the one I have only goes back 25mm but Canyon do have one with a 35mm lay back. Does anyone know of any other brands of seatpost that can be set back further than the standard?



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,077 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    Honestly, it seems like you bought the wrong size bike. The adjustments you’re making simply aren’t logical at this point.

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,501 ✭✭✭at1withmyself


    The seatpost you have looks like an inline seatpost.


    Assuming it's a standard 27.2 then you should be able to borrow one with 25mm set back. Or buy a cheap one.

    I think it's worth trying. Also you could get a cheap stem or again try borrow one. Then if it works out invest in better quality ones if needed.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,501 ✭✭✭at1withmyself


    Just curious why you think an increase of 10mm on stem length and increasing layback on a seat are not logical? I would have thought 30mm or so would be fairly standard so 10mm should be no problem.

    As everyone has different and unique dimensions then 1 size does not fit all.



  • Registered Users Posts: 407 ✭✭ofthelord


    Hi All,

    If anyone here could identify the name/spec of the below derailleur hanger for me I'd be very greatful.

    I need to order a new one as this one has bent following a run in between my bike and some big rocks.

    Thanks in advance for any info!




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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    It would be unusual to move so far in one

    Unusual to need to go so far back.

    A lot of the modern bike fitters are bemoaning people being too stretched out on the bike (seat back and longer stem) and reckon it's a fashion.


    Someone linked Neil Stanbury earlier. Check him out. His videos are a great job.



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