the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Idleater · 13-08-2021 12:45pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117746835#Comment_117746835

I have at least 27 on my langster commuter. They might be 28.

tomasrojo · 13-08-2021 2:52pm

I was reading Eben Weiss' The Ultimate Bicycle Owner's Manual, and he mentions the correct manner to replace worn tyres, which he compares to feeding a horse (or something like that): input at the front, dejecta at the rear. So, basically, when your rear tyre is worn and needs to be changed, put a new tyre on the front and the old front tyre at the rear, and keep going. This makes a lot of sense, if you ride fast, as you always have the least likely to blow tyre at the front.

However, I wasn't sure if it actually saved you money, which is the other claim he makes; at least compared with just simply changing the tyre that's worn out and ignoring the other one until it's worn out.

I don't really know how front and rear wear rates compare (except that rear is far faster), but I decided, because I'm like that, to try a hypothetical scenario and see if it would save money, over, say, two years. In this (totally hypothetical scenario), it's more trouble and costs nearly the same. It still is safer, though whether it's worth the effort maybe depends on your riding style.

Start with two new tyres; say the rear tyre wears twice as fast as front: six months versus one year.

Just changing the worn tyre

----------------------------------------------------------------

6 months: rear totally worn, front half worn; change rear

12 months: both totally worn; change both

18 months; rear totally worn, front half worn; change rear

24 months: both totally worn; change both

-----------------------------------------------------------------

Total change: 6 tyres, changing rear tyre (the hard one) four times, front tyre twice: six changes.

"Rotating" tyres

----------------------------------------------------------------

6 months: rear totally worn, front half worn; put new on front, old front to rear

9 months: rear totally worn, front quarter worn; put new on front; old front to rear

13.5 months: rear totally worn, front .375 worn; put new on front; etc.

17.25 months: rear totally worn, front 0.3125 worn; put new on front; etc.

21.375 months: rear totally worn, front 0.34375 worn; put new on front; etc.

25.3125 months: rear totally worn, front 0.328125 worn; put new on front; etc.

---------------------------------------------------------

Total change: 6 tyres, changing rear tyre (the hard one) six times, front tyre six times: twelve changes.

If you assume the rear wears out ten times faster (say the front wear is 0.1 after six months with the rear totally worn out), you end up buying five tyres in 27.8 months.

But the other strategy leads to buying four tyres in 24 months, and a 0.4 worn-out front tyre.

So I'm not sure it saves you very much money.

Anyway, thank you for coming to my TED talk.

ARX · 13-08-2021 3:14pm

We're not worthy!

tomasrojo · 13-08-2021 3:20pm

I bet I've made a mistake somewhere though!!

magicbastarder · 13-08-2021 5:11pm

what if you cycle on a conveyor belt?

Brian? · 13-08-2021 6:12pm

I always change both tyres when one is worn! Take that

Weepsie · 13-08-2021 7:29pm

Took apart my sram shifter to check and service the master cylinder and hopefully solve my problems.

IMG_20210813_184934.jpg

There was a bit of white plastic attached to it, cleaned it up and still more. Then the bottom, small end I noticed there are 2 O-rings missing. A white plastic one and a black rubber one.

There seemed to be debris inside the shifter where I'd removed the cylinder, so I put it back on for now to go at another day if I can find a replacement.

However this is where I stuck my arm right now on the dot grease so cue washing it for about 10 mins, and stuck the cylinder back in without the spring. FML.

Mecrab · 14-08-2021 3:50pm

My converted ebike(bought from adverts 4 months ago) has what seems like a battery issue. When i switch it on and pull the throttle the whole thing shuts off. I haven't a scooby on how to tackle this problem any suggestions would be great. I can send a video of it happening if that will help. battery is an x-go 36v 10aH and motor is a front wheel 1000w one.

magicbastarder · 14-08-2021 4:17pm

a 1000W front wheel motor? mudderagod.

Large bottle small glass · 14-08-2021 6:41pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117753052#Comment_117753052

Is it disc brakes, a cable brake fork probably wouldn't have the strength to deal with the forces at hub with that motor.

A disc brake fork might be ok but someone familiar with bikes would need to have a look at that. The forces from hard braking would be in the same ball park as motor output

1000w is mental at the front of a bike, it'll handle uniquely; and probably not in a good way. Pretty sure recommendation is for lower power output for front hub ebikes

Mecrab · 14-08-2021 7:01pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117753984#Comment_117753984

it is a disc brake on the back wheel yes.

it is incredibly powerful for sure. you're right it doesn't feel very smooth when the front wheel just pulls you along haha handy for steep hills though!

wheelo01 · 15-08-2021 7:04pm

Is a snapped spoke a big deal? I snapped one on yesterday's spin. I know I not going to be able to re-true the wheel, so what can I expect to be charged?

If it makes a difference, they're fulcrum racing 66 700mm wheels(rear)

If he cant do it for me tomorrow, is it okay to cycle until he can?

Thanks.

DaveyDave · 15-08-2021 8:19pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117758792#Comment_117758792

Depends on the wheel I'd say. The chain came off on my old mountain bike a few years ago and ripped one of the spokes out of the wheel. I cycled on it for months after that. It was a basic, budget wheel on a €600 bike. Didn't repair it because the nipple was ripped out of the rim and I didn't have money for a new wheel. It was a commuter bike so didn't take a beating in that state.

On another bike I had a cheap Shimano road wheel break a spoke after only owning it a few weeks and not 5 minutes later trying to get home another one went...

Brian? · 15-08-2021 9:20pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117758792#Comment_117758792

Don’t cycle on it.

wheelo01 · 15-08-2021 9:39pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117759342#Comment_117759342

Thanks Brian, any ideas on cost of repair?

Brian? · 15-08-2021 9:40pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117759422#Comment_117759422

No idea man, sorry.

I bought a wheel stand years ago to do it myself. Decent investment.

magicbastarder · 15-08-2021 10:42pm

last time i had a spoke replaced, which was probably five years ago, it cost me 15 quid.

Brian? · 16-08-2021 9:03am

Did those screws ever get removed?

Zen0 · 16-08-2021 10:25am

Tightest tyre clearance on a bike is not normally at the forks or the seat stays, it’s at the chain stays. Try looking there first.

wheelo01 · 16-08-2021 10:51am

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117759670#Comment_117759670

Quoted €20 from Wolfe Cycles over my way, could fit it in today, so I'm happy enough,

Thanks.

magicbastarder · 16-08-2021 12:06pm

i once had a bike where the tightest clearance was between the top of the tyre and inside of the fork crown. i stuck a 25mm tyre (panaracer RibMo) on the front wheel and it was jammed solid when i remounted it.

tomasrojo · 16-08-2021 12:32pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117759085#Comment_117759085

I used to break spokes all the time when I had a cheap-ish hybrid. Used to snap axles as well.

If you have a bike with 32 spokes (and I assume 36 spokes, but I never broke a spoke on my bike with 36-spoke wheels), you can ride it for a while in my experience, but you're just going to break more spokes and the wheel goes more out of true.

Anyway, you're getting it fixed!

darragh o meara · 16-08-2021 12:55pm

Quick question:

Just bought a gravel bike which is geared more like a MTB than a road bike. My current road bike has exactly what I want in a rear cassette so was going to purchase one the same and swap them over. Both are 9 speed and Shimano.

Are MTB and Road bike cassettes the same fitament?

BTW: I bought a gravel bike because I'm a bit heavier than your average cyclist and while I never had bother on the 25mm tyres, I feel a bit safer on the wider tyres the gravel bike offers.

DaveyDave · 16-08-2021 1:14pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117761599#Comment_117761599

They're the same fitment, once the gears match and the rear derailleur can take it then it should be fine. My road ebike has a 42t MTB cassette on road wheels, I could put my 25t road cassette on it if I wanted as both are 11 speed.

darragh o meara · 16-08-2021 3:48pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117761701#Comment_117761701

I'm going with a smaller road type cassette instead of the larger MTB one. Hopefully wont be a problem.

monseiur · 16-08-2021 4:31pm

Hi folks, Anyone on here familiar with the Carrera Vengance MTB (Halfords) I'm considering buying one and would appreciate your opinions. Plan to cycle rough / hard trails, at weekends etc. Is the Vengance more of a commuter type bike than a genuine MTB ? Should I up my budget and get a Giant Talon 3 or Trek. (My size in these won't be available for months)

Thanks.

NeedMoreGears · 16-08-2021 5:24pm

Disc Brake Rubbing

Whenever I remove a wheel that is fitted with a disc brake, I almost always get some rubbing on reinstallation. The wheel/brakes are fine before I remove the wheel. Anyone got any tips on how to ensure this doesn't happen please? The best I have come up with is to fit the wheel and then apply the brakes before tightening the quick release. It improves things but there's always a bit of a niggling rub for a while.