The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

deezell · 11-06-2021 7:51am

scouser123 wrote: »

Hi, Hopefully one of you guys can help me with this.

I have a castlegarden TC102 (about 25 years old but like a friend to me) and the drive chain came off the back wheel. When I checked one of the Pinions was really badly worn. I managed to get the stuck chain from the back flywheel and get a new pinion and replaced it. I have linked two pics of the old pinion and the newly installed one. Thought I had it sorted but it came off the drive wheel again today during a mulch which is what I use it for now.

The routing of the chain via the tensionor looks wrong but I believe that was the way it was before I replaced the pinion.
The chain seems to go in both directions between the tensioner pinions.
In one of the pics the chain is loose on the tension spring as its off the back drive wheel.

The chain seemed tight enough when I put it back on but.......
Is the routing correct?

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10219789362828158&set=pcb.10219789365588227
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10219789362868159&set=pcb.10219789365588227

Many thanks for any help.

Cheers,

Some diagrams here.
http://www.lawn-king.co.uk/downloads/57523339208_02_2013_12_54_22.pdf
The tensioner pinion 38 on page 30 is held under spring tension againt the underside of the chain. There should be enough pressure to keep the chain slack to a minimum. A well worn chain will exceed the range of the tensioner, you might need to pop out a link pair. In my experience this chain could be very slack and not fall off unless the mower was jockied hard in reverse, the drive pressure is then applied to the tensioner. Older models had an adjustable fixed position tensioner, this looks to be a sprung self tensioning type. Is there free movement of the sprung pinion lever? It might be sticky. Also check that all the retaining bolts on the rear crown sprocket into the differential are tight and not sheared off. If this large sprocket becomes loose it will throw the chain.

deezell · 11-06-2021 8:04am

scouser123 wrote: »

I have a castlegarden TC102 (about 25 years old but like a friend to me).....

I can't argue with that. Sad day when I sold off Larry here, in his 20s, to work in a nice small retirement garden..

scouser123 · 11-06-2021 8:58am

deezell wrote: »

Some diagrams here.
http://www.lawn-king.co.uk/downloads/57523339208_02_2013_12_54_22.pdf
The tensioner pinion 38 on page 30 is held under spring tension againt the underside of the chain. There should be enough pressure to keep the chain slack to a minimum. A well worn chain will exceed the range of the tensioner, you might need to pop out a link pair. In my experience this chain could be very slack and not fall off unless the mower was jockied hard in reverse, the drive pressure is then applied to the tensioner. Older models had an adjustable fixed position tensioner, this looks to be a sprung self tensioning type. Is there free movement of the sprung pinion lever? It might be sticky. Also check that all the retaining bolts on the rear crown sprocket into the differential are tight and not sheared off. If this large sprocket becomes loose it will throw the chain.

Thanks for the prompt reply Deezell , Jeez Larry looks even older than mine:-)
Yes I have checked the diagram you sent but it only shows one pinion tensioner mine has 2. Nort sure if you could see my photos but does the routing of the chain look ok? I think it must be as I haven't taken it off. When you say the back sprocket I assume you mean the big threaded metal wheel connected to the back wheel? This does look on solid. I wondered had the sprockets become misaligned but its hard to see if they are all in a line. The two pinions do seem to move ok I will try to get the chain back on the back sprocket again at the weekend and see how much tension there is on the chain. Might get a better photo of it with the chain on. Might also try your suggestion of taking a link out - if I can find the connection point :-) Cheers again for your help. Much appreciated.

deezell · 11-06-2021 9:10am

I was curious about the second arm in the picture. I thought perhaps it was the old one pushed in for the photo, but you say its additional. Is it also sprung, or fixed. It's not a mod done by some previous owner, or have you had this machine from new. 98 was the oldest 102 manual I could find online, I have a printout of my older one which had a single adjustable tension sprocket, no springs, it was probably 96-97 model, I bought it in 2001, came with the house.

scouser123 · 11-06-2021 9:16am

deezell wrote: »

I was curious about the second arm in the picture. I thought perhaps it was the old one pushed in for the photo, but you say its additional. Is it also sprung, or fixed. It's not a mod done by some previous owner, or have you had this machine from new. 98 was the oldest 102 manual I could find online, I have a printout of my older one which had a single adjustable tension sprocket, no springs, it was probably 96-97 model, I bought it in 2001, came with the house.

Hi Deezell, I've had it from New - probably around 98 - as far as I know this was the original double pinion tensioner but I can't find any picture of that setup anywhere. The two pinions spread out a bit during operation and the chain runs between the two, top of the chain to the underside of one and the bottom of the chain to the top of the other if you get me. I'll try to take a photo of it actually operating. Cheers.

deezell · 12-06-2021 8:36am

scouser123 wrote: »

Hi Deezell, I've had it from New - probably around 98 - as far as I know this was the original double pinion tensioner but I can't find any picture of that setup anywhere. The two pinions spread out a bit during operation and the chain runs between the two, top of the chain to the underside of one and the bottom of the chain to the top of the other if you get me. I'll try to take a photo of it actually operating. Cheers.

Looking at the parts diagram, the second arm is visible, but with no pinion attached, like it was optional. I'd expect it to be the case that the chain is sandwiched between them, as its bi directional, this arrangement allows a straight chain on the driving side and a tensioned chain on the slack side regardless of forward or reverse, the tensioner pair would just rotate together with the chain force.

scouser123 · 14-06-2021 10:07am

deezell wrote: »

Looking at the parts diagram, the second arm is visible, but with no pinion attached, like it was optional. I'd expect it to be the case that the chain is sandwiched between them, as its bi directional, this arrangement allows a straight chain on the driving side and a tensioned chain on the slack side regardless of forward or reverse, the tensioner pair would just rotate together with the chain force.

Hi Deezell, I have attached two videos. One is the chain in forward/reverse motion and the other is me moving the tensioner to show the spring. I've checked and the spring pins are in the correct slots so the movement may be normal or just years of wear. Where the spring holder comes out the side of the mower frame it is bolted on but there a slotted section below it. I was wondering if this was for tensioning the chain in case of wear? Pic attached also. It looks like I could take the bolt out and move it down to the slot and this might tension the chain a bit more? The chain definitely looks looser on the bottom during reverse motion and I think its when its in reverse the chain slips off the toothed wheel at the back.
https://www.facebook.com/1341894051/videos/pcb.10219810935247455/10219810934727442
https://www.facebook.com/1341894051/videos/pcb.10219810935247455/10219810934927447
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10219810977728517&set=a.10219789365548226

Many thanks for your input.

Cheers

soundman45 · 14-06-2021 5:11pm

Anybody got any advice on what to do with a ride on mower thats not needed anymore, is there anywhere reputable that buys them, have a cub cadet tractor mower thats not needed sitting in my shed, few guys on done deal I tried they dont even reply, Is there an auction etc that I could put it into?

Dempo1 · 15-06-2021 10:35am

A question if I may.

Years ago and I'm taking 35 at least, I lived beside a parkland area with convent, actually got a summer job working in Gardens and massive green house attached to the convent, long since gone now (South Dublin)

I recall they had an extraordinary lawn mower, very large rear wheels and a clip on/off seat, acted like a ride on mower. It was a beast of a machine, quite fast and had a large cutting area. I can't recall if it had a rotary blade.

Anyway, I've since moved rural, 20 year now, have over an acre of lawn spaces. I wondered is there a similar type of mower available still, I'm guessing not cheap but looking for a self propelled type machine that could also act as a ride on for larger areas. I say this as I've areas that where a ride on would not be practical.

Any links, ideas apopeciated. Thank you

The Continental Op · 15-06-2021 11:56am

The clip on/off seat is called a sulky.

35 years ago grass cutting was very different to it is now and cutting on an estate garden would be different again.

You probably were using some form of cylinder mower without a grass box. Nearest thing that may still be available is the Haytor Condor with a cylinder.

If you want the fastest machine with the biggest cut and a great finish then a "triple" is worth looking at. The Allen National used to be a good one and Saxon made another but I don't think they are in business anymore but did find this https://www.baronessuk.com/product/lm180c/

Dempo1 · 15-06-2021 2:52pm

The Continental Op wrote: »

The clip on/off seat is called a sulky.

35 years ago grass cutting was very different to it is now and cutting on an estate garden would be different again.

You probably were using some form of cylinder mower without a grass box. Nearest thing that may still be available is the Haytor Condor with a cylinder.

If you want the fastest machine with the biggest cut and a great finish then a "triple" is worth looking at. The Allen National used to be a good one and Saxon made another but I don't think they are in business anymore but did find this https://www.baronessuk.com/product/lm180c/

Thanks for that, I think you correct re it being cylinder type mower, I'm actually thinking it may have been a webber if that makes sense. The machine you linked to certainly a beast, I've seen golf course, local authorities use similar and I'd assume seriously expensive

I'll continue my search but appreciate the response, thanks

The Continental Op · 15-06-2021 3:31pm

The thing is that mower could have been another 35 years old when you used it making it 70 years old now.

Its the very large rear wheels that I can't relate to any mower I can think of that also had a sulky.

When you say large wheels I think of the wheels on an Allen Scythe which is another monster altogether.

Most cylinder mowers would have a rear roller so no need for big wheels and the "reel" mowers (just a jargon the guys I worked with used for a cylinder mower for rough work) would have barrow sized tyres on it.

Then there were some setups that had a huge cylinder mower that could be used by hand on the main lawn but could be hitched up to a couple of towed cylinder mowers and a seat for parklands some of those had larger drive wheels on the attached cylinders. The other type I can think of was the multi tool machine where one prime mover engine and wheels had loads of attachements.

Heres an example that fits the bill

1950s-1960s-man-father-mowing-grass-driving-riding-large-lawnmower-towing-two-boys-sons-brothers-each-sitting-in-a-wagon-g5630-hel001-hars-old-fashion-1-mower-silly-wagon-juvenile-comic-safety-teamwork-lawnmower-mowing-sons-joy-lifestyle-brothers-rural-home-life-copy-space-full-length-persons-males-risk-siblings-transportation-fathers-bw-goals-humorous-happiness-high-angle-chore-strategy-dads-progress-recreation-comical-innovation-a-in-opportunity-sibling-using-connection-towing-yard-work-conceptual-lawn-mower-comedy-imagination-wagons-creativity-growth-juveniles-mid-adult-mid-adult-man-2BW886C.jpg

Dempo1 · 15-06-2021 5:17pm

The Continental Op wrote: »

The thing is that mower could have been another 35 years old when you used it making it 70 years old now.

Its the very large rear wheels that I can't relate to any mower I can think of that also had a sulky.

When you say large wheels I think of the wheels on an Allen Scythe which is another monster altogether.

Most cylinder mowers would have a rear roller so no need for big wheels and the "reel" mowers (just a jargon the guys I worked with used for a cylinder mower for rough work) would have barrow sized tyres on it.

Then there were some setups that had a huge cylinder mower that could be used by hand on the main lawn but could be hitched up to a couple of towed cylinder mowers and a seat for parklands some of those had larger drive wheels on the attached cylinders. The other type I can think of was the multi tool machine where one prime mover engine and wheels had loads of attachements.

Heres an example that fits the bill

Well well, that looks like what I was referring too

, there was just a cutting section at the very front. That's some photo, blast from the past

not sure health and safety would approve of kids following behind these days

Lewis_Benson · 22-06-2021 12:35am

Just purchased A Mountfield 1530h today, being delivered tomorrow.
I have 3/4 of an acre which takes 5 hours with the 21 inch self propelled.

Looking forward to using it.

deezell · 22-06-2021 1:21am

scouser123 wrote: »

Hi, Hopefully one of you guys can help me with this.

I have a castlegarden TC102 (about 25 years old but like a friend to me) and the drive chain came off the back wheel. When I checked one of the Pinions was really badly worn. I managed to get the stuck chain from the back flywheel and get a new pinion and replaced it. I have linked two pics of the old pinion and the newly installed one. Thought I had it sorted but it came off the drive wheel again today during a mulch which is what I use it for now.

The routing of the chain via the tensionor looks wrong but I believe that was the way it was before I replaced the pinion.
The chain seems to go in both directions between the tensioner pinions.
In one of the pics the chain is loose on the tension spring as its off the back drive wheel.

The chain seemed tight enough when I put it back on but.......
Is the routing correct?

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10219789362828158&set=pcb.10219789365588227
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10219789362868159&set=pcb.10219789365588227

Many thanks for any help.

Cheers,

Sorry, just seeing this now. Boards new post notifications seems to be gone on the blink, 5 days or more before email arrives.
Anyway, I don't think the chain should be that loose, the two tension sprockets are practically touching, the chain traverses are almost rubbing.Have you tried to spread them and check if the spring is being extended by any amount? You might need to lose a link pair, if there's a split link then its not a huge job, if you know how the file down the pins clinch, prise off the outer link side and or use a pin punch to drive out the pin. Must be plenty of videos on YouTube. Chains stretch and sprockets wear, properly you replace all when tensioning reaches it's limit, I've had to do this on various motorbikes belonging to my lads over the years, safest approach, but for everything thing from my first bike to farm machines and combine harvesters, it was often necessary to drop a link pair to restore tension. Eventually worn main sprockets will defeat even this, as the wear shortens the sprocket pitch, while the chain stretch lengthens it, causing links to eventually 'ride' the sprocket teeth, and break or throw the chain. Could be lethal on a motorbike. Certainly very expensive on the common BMW N47 2l diesel engine timing chain, which I'm sure some readers here have gashed their teeth over when they heard the chain chatter that preceded a potential chain jump, timing failure, and engine valve destruction. More than €2k if you changed it in time, Up to €6K some paid, and if it broke while driving......But I'm rambling. Check the lateral play in the chain, you'll know if the slack is too great. Popping a link pair might,/should work short term, unless chain and sprockets are worn to sh*t.

fryup · 22-06-2021 8:06am

deezell wrote: »

I can't argue with that. Sad day when I sold off Larry here, in his 20s, to work in a nice small retirement garden..

and what did you replace it with?

scouser123 · 22-06-2021 8:57am

deezell wrote: »

Sorry, just seeing this now. Boards new post notifications seems to be gone on the blink, 5 days or more before email arrives.
Anyway, I don't think the chain should be that loose, the two tension sprockets are practically touching, the chain traverses are almost rubbing.Have you tried to spread them and check if the spring is being extended by any amount? You might need to lose a link pair, if there's a split link then its not a huge job, if you know how the file down the pins clinch, prise off the outer link side and or use a pin punch to drive out the pin. Must be plenty of videos on YouTube. Chains stretch and sprockets wear, properly you replace all when tensioning reaches it's limit, I've had to do this on various motorbikes belonging to my lads over the years, safest approach, but for everything thing from my first bike to farm machines and combine harvesters, it was often necessary to drop a link pair to restore tension. Eventually worn main sprockets will defeat even this, as the wear shortens the sprocket pitch, while the chain stretch lengthens it, causing links to eventually 'ride' the sprocket teeth, and break or throw the chain. Could be lethal on a motorbike. Certainly very expensive on the common BMW N47 2l diesel engine timing chain, which I'm sure some readers here have gashed their teeth over when they heard the chain chatter that preceded a potential chain jump, timing failure, and engine valve destruction. More than €2k if you changed it in time, Up to €6K some paid, and if it broke while driving......But I'm rambling. Check the lateral play in the chain, you'll know if the slack is too great. Popping a link pair might,/should work short term, unless chain and sprockets are worn to sh*t.

Thanks Deezel, I stripped down the tensioner and removed the spring. It actually looked ok so I turned it around (don't ask me why) and put it back on. When I tightened it all back the top tensioner wheel is now straight up and doesn't move and the bottom one is down but springs/tensions up and down with the mower forward and back motion. Chain seems tight on back sprocket wheel now. I tried it on the back garden and it seems fine. Can't understand why it looks ok now after just replacing it and putting back together but the way it is now looks more sensible. Chain and tensioner pinions separated. Will give it a good run at the weekend to see. Jaasus I might get another year out of it yet :-) Thanks for all the help.

deezell · 23-06-2021 11:31am

fryup wrote: »

and what did you replace it with?

A Viking 6127.ZL, a 22hp 50 inch cut huge MFer!
Used with 60 hrs on the clock, half new price.

Lewis_Benson · 24-06-2021 11:26am

Lewis_Benson wrote: »

Just purchased A Mountfield 1530h today, being delivered tomorrow.
I have 3/4 of an acre which takes 5 hours with the 21 inch self propelled.

Looking forward to using it.

Used it yesterday.
I have 3/4 acre which I was cutting with a self drive 21 inch .
It used to take 5 hours.
Did the whole place in 2 hours yesterday.

Its a beast.

New Home · 24-06-2021 6:22pm

Any views on this one, please?

https://www.lidl.ie/p/great-gardens/1300w-electric-lawnmower/p12668

deezell · 24-06-2021 8:03pm

New Home wrote: »

Any views on this one, please?

At least you can use it from a 3 pin plug, unlike their current cordless special buy which requires two 20v 4ah batteries, not included, hopelessly out of stock due to world shortage. and no idea when they'll be available. They're asking up to £70 each on ebay.
Tip: two of the smaller power tool 2ah ones will work, but for half as long and with the risk of excess demand on the smaller ( or less numerous) cells.

cathy427 · 24-06-2021 10:27pm

What would be the smallest size ride on with a mulcher on that would be worth getting to save time time cutting a half acre? *smallest cause want to keep cost down and shed entrance is narrow.

Or do the smaller ones even come with a mulcher?

Roughly what would I need to budget for a good secondhand one.

Assume this is too big for half acre?

deezell wrote: »

A Viking 6127.ZL, a 22hp 50 inch cut huge MFer!
Used with 60 hrs on the clock, half new price.

60 hours for half the price of new sounds great - suppose depends on the new price!! .

Am I fooling myself looking for a small one?

fryup · 25-06-2021 10:17am

cathy427 wrote: »

What would be the smallest size ride on with a mulcher on that would be worth getting to save time time cutting a half acre? *smallest cause want to keep cost down and shed entrance is narrow.

Or do the smaller ones even come with a mulcher?

how about a buggy style ride on like this one, should be narrow enough for most garden sheds, just make sure the horsepower (HP) is above 10

as for mulching all you need do is just plug the back shoot so that the cuttings don't go into the collection box, some hard cardboard would do the trick

monkeynuz · 25-06-2021 2:22pm

cathy427 wrote: »

What would be the smallest size ride on with a mulcher on that would be worth getting to save time time cutting a half acre? *smallest cause want to keep cost down and shed entrance is narrow.

Or do the smaller ones even come with a mulcher?

Roughly what would I need to budget for a good secondhand one.

Assume this is too big for half acre?

60 hours for half the price of new sounds great - suppose depends on the new price!! .

Am I fooling myself looking for a small one?

Etesia 80cm cut, mulch, bag and side discharge.

Cut in the wet.

deezell · 25-06-2021 3:17pm

Etesia is fine if you have €5k to spend. Otherwise this 72cm cut for little over €2k,
https://monaghanhire.com/products/castelgarden-tractor-xf135hd-72cm-rider-hyd-352cc-engine

or this 80cm ride on tractor for about €2.5k
https://monaghanhire.com/products/castelgarden-xdc140hd-tractor-mower

monkeynuz · 25-06-2021 3:24pm

deezell wrote: »

Etesia is fine if you have €5k to spend. Otherwise this 72cm cut for little over €2k,
https://monaghanhire.com/products/castelgarden-tractor-xf135hd-72cm-rider-hyd-352cc-engine

or this 80cm ride on tractor for about €2.5k
https://monaghanhire.com/products/castelgarden-xdc140hd-tractor-mower

Etesia is better though. ðŸ˜¬

fryup · 26-06-2021 9:32am

monkeynuz wrote: »

Etesia is better though.

if you're willing to remortgage your house

monkeynuz · 26-06-2021 11:24am

fryup wrote: »

if you're willing to remortgage your house

That’s a little extreme.

I’d rather buy good than cheap.

To be honest for 1/2 acre you’d be better off with a good 21” walk behind, not a cheap one.

cathy427 · 26-06-2021 12:24pm

fryup wrote: »

how about a buggy style ride on like this one, should be narrow enough for most garden sheds, just make sure the horsepower (HP) is above 10

as for mulching all you need do is just plug the back shoot so that the cuttings don't go into the collection box, some hard cardboard would do the trick

Thanks a mill. Something like could suit for a while or indeed for as long as it stays going. At 30" inch obviously going to take long than the Castlegarden below but a totally different product really and still faster than the walk behind.

Dohvolle wrote: »

I am on a 1/2 acre, so I think I have about half of that in grass. I got a Castelgarden XDC150HD for €2500 in april (From the Stiga family). It has a mulching option, with a 250l collector box. Takes about 30 minutes to cut everything. An hour to do it by the book (criss cross)
Looking around that's kind of the standard. Go for something without a collector and you'll be around the €2000 mark, though prices increased recently.
You'll get cheaper 2nd hand, but this could be a false economy when you end up replacing belts, blades or engine parts..

deezell wrote: »

Etesia is fine if you have €5k to spend. Otherwise this 72cm cut for little over €2k,
https://monaghanhire.com/products/castelgarden-tractor-xf135hd-72cm-rider-hyd-352cc-engine

or this 80cm ride on tractor for about €2.5k
https://monaghanhire.com/products/castelgarden-xdc140hd-tractor-mower

Thanks guys.
So around €2500 for Castlegarden seems to be where market is at. Is there much difference between the 140 and 150 and do the other numbers matter? Take your point on the second hand ones. In the dealers (as opposed to donedeal) do they have ones they have ... refurbished for want of a better work.

As I say have budget and space concerns in terms of getting it into the shed but appreciate your point that nearly better going new if at all possible. See they seem to come with hitch and battery charger but mulching kit is extra.

monkeynuz wrote: »

That’s a little extreme.

I’d rather buy good than cheap.

To be honest for 1/2 acre you’d be better off with a good 21” walk behind, not a cheap one.

If went new would the Castlegarden not be considered good given that it would only have to do the 1/2 acre (full site is just over .8 acre so rougly 0.5 lawns.

In terms of the walk behind my issue is time - enjoy garden but with walk behind people tell me you are looking at 3 and half hours minimum.

Thanks for all the help - much appreciated.
Two good extremes there to consider - the small buggy style to tied me over or new Castlegarden.
Would the small buggy style be widely available 2nd hand at around that price point? Or would they be rare?

monkeynuz · 26-06-2021 1:58pm

cathy427 wrote: »

Thanks a mill. Something like could suit for a while or indeed for as long as it stays going. At 30" inch obviously going to take long than the Castlegarden below but a totally different product really and still faster than the walk behind.

Thanks guys.
So around €2500 for Castlegarden seems to be where market is at. Is there much difference between the 140 and 150 and do the other numbers matter? Take your point on the second hand ones. In the dealers (as opposed to donedeal) do they have ones they have ... refurbished for want of a better work.

As I say have budget and space concerns in terms of getting it into the shed but appreciate your point that nearly better going new if at all possible. See they seem to come with hitch and battery charger but mulching kit is extra.

If went new would the Castlegarden not be considered good given that it would only have to do the 1/2 acre (full site is just over .8 acre so rougly 0.5 lawns.

In terms of the walk behind my issue is time - enjoy garden but with walk behind people tell me you are looking at 3 and half hours minimum.

Thanks for all the help - much appreciated.
Two good extremes there to consider - the small buggy style to tied me over or new Castlegarden.
Would the small buggy style be widely available 2nd hand at around that price point? Or would they be rare?

Less than an hour with good honda//Stihl/Etesia walk behind.

deezell · 26-06-2021 2:00pm

The xdc140 is the best choice for durability and residual value. Cut width of 84cm, overall width of 88cm, length with the bag removed is about 1.8m, so if this fits in your shed you're sorted. The 72cm compact will take more laps to mow, and may feel a bit bumpier due to the small wheels. If it was to be driven by a large man, say 18st, like someone I know, I wouldn't choose the buggy type.

deezell · 26-06-2021 2:16pm

monkeynuz wrote: »

Less than an hour with good honda//Stihl/Etesia walk behind.

With a cut width of 51-53 cm, and a walk behind speed of 4km/hour you would indeed cover a half acre (2000 m2) in an hour. Overlap, cornering, obstacles, bag emptying will increase this by maybe 25%, but mulching and walking faster with a variable speed drive mower at 5km/hr max would bring it back to the hour of non stop fast walking. Thats 2.4 plus miles of walking and wrestling a very large mower, even with power drive, so its not unrealistic to expect to spend two hours plus on the job. I know someone who takes half a day to do their garden, they never manage more than 20mins of continuous walking.

Plus; used buggy mowers very scarce, and usually knackered.

soundman45 · 26-06-2021 3:33pm

monkeynuz wrote: »

Less than an hour with good honda//Stihl/Etesia walk behind.

+1, get a good variable speed self propelled, weibang shaft driven one for example would be quicker than the small ride on, no way 1/2 acre takes over 3 hours to mow.

0lddog · 26-06-2021 4:23pm

For decades I used a 33" 'mulch deck' to keep the grass here tamed. Last year it developed an issue. I got a 21" walk behind as a stop gap. I have found it does the job and, being lighter, easier for me to work.
Recently partially stripped engine of The Beast. Its a side valve 8.5HP B&S. Reckon big end is gone - didnt delve any further.
I wonder if there might be anyone ( someone in the trade of lawnmower repairs ? ) who would get some use ( for spares ? ) from it. Not looking for any money - looking for someone able to transport it away. ( I would have no interest in putting it in the shark infested waters of DD or Adverts

)

Any suggestion how to find a new home for it ?

Location : Co. North Dublin

bamayang · 26-06-2021 5:39pm

Is it possible to get replacement bags for 20 year old mowers? Have a 102 castle garden that’s working A1, but the bag is gone to bits.

bamayang · 26-06-2021 9:59pm

Dohvolle wrote: »

https://www.mowerparts.ie/grass-box-spare-parts-108-c.asp

Anything here work for you?

Cheers, ya buying a new frame might do me as the bag itself is fine. But the frame has rusted away completely. Machine is going grand otherwise, def another few years in it.

deezell · 27-06-2021 9:14am

Dohvolle wrote: »

I clicked on Deezell's link earlier and now google ads wan't me to buy another lawnmower...

If I google say, 'Euros 2020 Italy v Austria' to read the reports, Google ads thinks I want a hotel there. Google ads are shameless. I've taken to using the Samsung Internet browser on the phone, seems better. I think the telly is listening too, I get ads that can only be the result of eavesdropping.

fryup · 27-06-2021 9:32am

its those damn cookies

techi · 27-06-2021 7:16pm

Looking to buy a new Ride On.

I’ve narrowed it to 2 but can’t decide, hoping someone in the know might give me some pro’s and con’s on them or indeed let me know why one is better than the other.

Honda HF2417hme
Husqvarna TC242TX

Thanks in advance.

deezell · 27-06-2021 9:01pm

techi wrote: »

Looking to buy a new Ride On.

I’ve narrowed it to 2 but can’t decide, hoping someone in the know might give me some pro’s and con’s on them or indeed let me know why one is better than the other.

Honda HF2417hme
Husqvarna TC242TX

Thanks in advance.

Both V twin cylinder engines, giving smooth, quiet responsive power, the Husky"s 108 cut is 6cm more than the Honda, but it's Kawasaki engine delivers a full 50% more power than the Honda, 14Kw to 9.4kw. Honda has an on demand mulch lever, I think the Husky has one also, some models did, Biocut or something. I'm not sure why you might switch to/from mulch on the fly, except for uneven growth with patches too dense to mulch.
Honda rep goes before it, there's been occasional disappointed Husq users on the blogs, of the 'never again' variety, but it would still be considered premium, despite some grumbling on build quality. The Husqvarna is rrp at €5060, the Honda looks the better deal at €4400 here, https://monaghanhire.com/products/honda-hf-2417-ride-on-mower-brexit-buster-deal ,
but you could narrow that gap with haggling.
Consider slso the Stihl 5112 Z or 6112 Zl, 110cm cut mowers with twin v B-&S engines, 11 kw of power, all the usual features, the former machine is competitively priced, sub €4k in some dealers but with a build quality on a par with either of the other two. Very robust, very smooth engine.
https://www.fitzhire.ie/tractors-mower/250-stihl-rt-5112-oz-mower.html

techi · 27-06-2021 10:08pm

deezell wrote: »

Both V twin cylinder engines, giving smooth, quiet responsive power, the Husky"s 108 cut is 6cm more than the Honda, but it's Kawasaki engine delivers a full 50% more power than the Honda, 14Kw to 9.4kw. Honda has an on demand mulch lever, I think the Husky has one also, some models did, Biocut or something. I'm not sure why you might switch to/from mulch on the fly, except for uneven growth with patches too dense to mulch.
Honda rep goes before it, there's been occasional disappointed Husq users on the blogs, of the 'never again' variety, but it would still be considered premium, despite some grumbling on build quality. The Husqvarna is rrp at €5060, the Honda looks the better deal at €4400 here, https://monaghanhire.com/products/honda-hf-2417-ride-on-mower-brexit-buster-deal ,
but you could narrow that gap with haggling.
Consider slso the Stihl 5112 Z or 6112 Zl, 110cm cut mowers with twin v B-&S engines, 11 kw of power, all the usual features, the former machine is competitively priced, sub €4k in some dealers but with a build quality on a par with either of the other two. Very robust, very smooth engine.
https://www.fitzhire.ie/tractors-mower/250-stihl-rt-5112-oz-mower.html

Appreciate the response many thanks, hadn’t considered the Stihl. I was leaning towards the Husky, however as a previous owner of several Honda motorcycles I do like their reliability and I’d imagine it follows through on mower. The Stihl looks a nice machine but I’m still torn between the Honda and Husky.

The Continental Op · 27-06-2021 11:23pm

techi wrote: »

Appreciate the response many thanks, hadn’t considered the Stihl. I was leaning towards the Husky, however as a previous owner of several Honda motorcycles I do like their reliability and I’d imagine it follows through on mower. The Stihl looks a nice machine but I’m still torn between the Honda and Husky.

I bought the smaller Honda 2317 from Monaghan Hire a few months ago. Got another €200 off their listed price for the machine including PDI and delivery. So see what they will do.

Can't fault the machine. I'd never mulch with it, because the doesn't work with that type of machine and Irish grass but as a bagger its bl00dy excellent.

Apart from the engine its not really a Honda its an old Castle Garden design with a Honda engine however Honda have tweaked the design to get the most out it so it really works well. The body of the machine is also well built. Only thing I'd criticize on it is the convenience of doing an oil change, not exactly difficult but it could have been made much easier.

deezell · 30-06-2021 11:15am

It's worth noting than Honda have indeed gone the way of other premium brands to stay competitivei in using pattern chassis builds such as the generic castelgarden clones, with a Honda engine to give it It's usp. Irregardless, they are still pricey. At €4K, I wouldn't consider the Honda 2317 with it's 25% smaller engine, 7 inch/18cm smaller cut, non synchronous deck, smaller front tyres, and general dimensions, to be a competitor of the Stihl 5112.Z, which can be bought for this amount. All round, the Stihl has more of every thing, 40Kg more, making it a far more robust purchase, and it will get around your lawn quicker too.

Western Pomise · 30-06-2021 12:13pm

Currently have a Mountfield ride on mower which I bought in fairly good nick second hand off a neighbour around 3 years ago.It would be at least 10 years old and the cutting deck would be slightly wider than your typical push mower iykwim.

Our lawn is nearly an acre in size and has a slope in it down to a wall at the roadside.When cutting as you drive up against the hill I find that you always have to go into first gear (mower has 5 forward gears)……naturally this slows down the cutting process……takes me over 3 hours to cut the lawn at a time…… to me that seems like a long time to be at it…..I cut it in an anti-clockwise direction,is fairly square shaped garden.So if there is not much grass on the lawn I can cut along the top and down the side in second or third gear but then when you face across the lowest run across you are on a slope so for it and the run up against bathe slope on the far side you can only go in first gear.

The slope from the wall at the road or bottom of the garden to the top is at about 35 degrees.

I am just wondering are your typical modern ride on mowers for domestic use a bit more high powered than ones like mine?

Would have hoped they are and you could be able to drive against the slope in at least second gear while cutting iykwim.

How long roughly would it take to cut a 1 acre square lawn on a slight slope with a weeks growth of grass on it with a modern household ride on Mower?
Thanks for any replies.

deezell · 30-06-2021 1:46pm

Western Pomise wrote: »

Currently have a Mountfield ride on mower which I bought in fairly good nick second hand off a neighbour around 3 years ago.It would be at least 10 years old and the cutting deck would be slightly wider than your typical push mower iykwim.

Our lawn is nearly an acre in size and has a slope in it down to a wall at the roadside.When cutting as you drive up against the hill I find that you always have to go into first gear (mower has 5 forward gears)……naturally this slows down the cutting process……takes me over 3 hours to cut the lawn at a time…… to me that seems like a long time to be at it…..I cut it in an anti-clockwise direction,is fairly square shaped garden.So if there is not much grass on the lawn I can cut along the top and down the side in second or third gear but then when you face across the lowest run across you are on a slope so for it and the run up against bathe slope on the far side you can only go in first gear.

The slope from the wall at the road or bottom of the garden to the top is at about 35 degrees.

I am just wondering are your typical modern ride on mowers for domestic use a bit more high powered than ones like mine?

Would have hoped they are and you could be able to drive against the slope in at least second gear while cutting iykwim.

How long roughly would it take to cut a 1 acre square lawn on a slight slope with a weeks growth of grass on it with a modern household ride on Mower?
Thanks for any replies.

A nominally 100cm cut ride on driving in a straight line close to its max speed of 5km/hour will cut 5000 m2 or about 1.25 acres in an hour. In the real world, you have overlaps, turns, obstacles, bag emptying and slopes, add in heavy grass and underpowered engines and you can double the time taken. A modest slope can be overcome with a more powerful engine. Max slope for safe mowing is normally 10°, certainly for cutting across the slope. 35° sounds really dangerous in any direction, that's a climb of over 1m in every 2m forward. Thats a ramp, not a slope. This is extremely dangerous on a ride on mower. The possibility of the mower flipping backwards on the ascent is very real if the clutch is engaged suddenly. The possibility of runaway is also great, especially with a manual transmission, as older ride on mowers with manual transmission do not have the brake applied to the rear axle, but to the output sprocket shaft of the gearbox. If the chain breaks or jumps off the rear axle sprocket during a steep ascent or descent, the mower will take off down the hill, with no braking possible.
I'm hoping your estimate of slope is incorrect, though your use of first gear seems to imply otherwise. If you wish to mow a 35° sloped garden, you really should be using specialist walk/stand behind equipment, not a domestic ride on mower.

soundman45 · 21-07-2021 10:39am

Have just dumped my Cub Cadet ride on for a Weibang 537 shaft drive mower, will never use a ride on again. Ride on was worse than useless when the grass had grown long and needed to be cut every week otherwise belts were strained, the Husqvarna front deck mower I previously had was the same. The Weibang last week cut grass that was easily a foot high and never missed a beat or struggled, it performed brilliantly. Granted might take a little longer but instead of having to keep grass trimmed with the ride on this mower will easily cut long grass meaning less cutting over all. Can highly reccomend the Weibang.

driver02 · 22-07-2021 10:11pm

Any one have any experience of KAAZ walk behind mowers. This they use mostly Honda parts as in engine and clutch but a copy of Honda as far as I know.

deezell · 01-08-2021 4:18pm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117649011#Comment_117649011

Sounds like a previous post, but I think that was deck in the lower position, consistent with popped out lifting cables. When the deck is cable lifted, there are generally one per side. If a kerb bump lifts the deck up unevenly, it's possible that only one has popped out, the deck will then hang off balance from one cable, and might wedge in the upper position. If both cables are correctly hooked up, check if they become slack when you lower the height lever. If the deck is still jammed up, again it could be wedged from the uneven upward impact of the Kerb. You might already have this solved. I'm only seeing this post now, the new boards server is not delivering alerts to new posts, or else it has deleted my settings for followed threads.

SCOOP 64 · 02-08-2021 11:30pm

Can someone tell me what the rocker switch does on this machine just above ignition key (it has no lights)

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The Continental Op · 03-08-2021 10:28am

My guess it would be the on off switch for the deck if you have an electic clutch. If not maybe you have lights that don't work :-)

Another possible if you have to hold it in is that its a reversing switch that allows you to mow in reverse without cutting out.

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