The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

The Continental Op wrote: »

The clip on/off seat is called a sulky.

35 years ago grass cutting was very different to it is now and cutting on an estate garden would be different again.

You probably were using some form of cylinder mower without a grass box. Nearest thing that may still be available is the Haytor Condor with a cylinder.

If you want the fastest machine with the biggest cut and a great finish then a "triple" is worth looking at. The Allen National used to be a good one and Saxon made another but I don't think they are in business anymore but did find this https://www.baronessuk.com/product/lm180c/

Thanks for that, I think you correct re it being cylinder type mower, I'm actually thinking it may have been a webber if that makes sense. The machine you linked to certainly a beast, I've seen golf course, local authorities use similar and I'd assume seriously expensive

I'll continue my search but appreciate the response, thanks

The Continental Op wrote: »

The thing is that mower could have been another 35 years old when you used it making it 70 years old now.

Its the very large rear wheels that I can't relate to any mower I can think of that also had a sulky.

When you say large wheels I think of the wheels on an Allen Scythe which is another monster altogether.

Most cylinder mowers would have a rear roller so no need for big wheels and the "reel" mowers (just a jargon the guys I worked with used for a cylinder mower for rough work) would have barrow sized tyres on it.

Then there were some setups that had a huge cylinder mower that could be used by hand on the main lawn but could be hitched up to a couple of towed cylinder mowers and a seat for parklands some of those had larger drive wheels on the attached cylinders. The other type I can think of was the multi tool machine where one prime mover engine and wheels had loads of attachements.

Heres an example that fits the bill

Well well, that looks like what I was referring too , there was just a cutting section at the very front. That's some photo, blast from the past not sure health and safety would approve of kids following behind these days

scouser123 wrote: »

Hi, Hopefully one of you guys can help me with this.

I have a castlegarden TC102 (about 25 years old but like a friend to me) and the drive chain came off the back wheel. When I checked one of the Pinions was really badly worn. I managed to get the stuck chain from the back flywheel and get a new pinion and replaced it. I have linked two pics of the old pinion and the newly installed one. Thought I had it sorted but it came off the drive wheel again today during a mulch which is what I use it for now.

The routing of the chain via the tensionor looks wrong but I believe that was the way it was before I replaced the pinion.
The chain seems to go in both directions between the tensioner pinions.
In one of the pics the chain is loose on the tension spring as its off the back drive wheel.

The chain seemed tight enough when I put it back on but.......
Is the routing correct?

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10219789362828158&set=pcb.10219789365588227
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10219789362868159&set=pcb.10219789365588227

Many thanks for any help.

Cheers,

Sorry, just seeing this now. Boards new post notifications seems to be gone on the blink, 5 days or more before email arrives.
Anyway, I don't think the chain should be that loose, the two tension sprockets are practically touching, the chain traverses are almost rubbing.Have you tried to spread them and check if the spring is being extended by any amount? You might need to lose a link pair, if there's a split link then its not a huge job, if you know how the file down the pins clinch, prise off the outer link side and or use a pin punch to drive out the pin. Must be plenty of videos on YouTube. Chains stretch and sprockets wear, properly you replace all when tensioning reaches it's limit, I've had to do this on various motorbikes belonging to my lads over the years, safest approach, but for everything thing from my first bike to farm machines and combine harvesters, it was often necessary to drop a link pair to restore tension. Eventually worn main sprockets will defeat even this, as the wear shortens the sprocket pitch, while the chain stretch lengthens it, causing links to eventually 'ride' the sprocket teeth, and break or throw the chain. Could be lethal on a motorbike. Certainly very expensive on the common BMW N47 2l diesel engine timing chain, which I'm sure some readers here have gashed their teeth over when they heard the chain chatter that preceded a potential chain jump, timing failure, and engine valve destruction. More than €2k if you changed it in time, Up to €6K some paid, and if it broke while driving......But I'm rambling. Check the lateral play in the chain, you'll know if the slack is too great. Popping a link pair might,/should work short term, unless chain and sprockets are worn to sh*t.

deezell wrote: »

Sorry, just seeing this now. Boards new post notifications seems to be gone on the blink, 5 days or more before email arrives.
Anyway, I don't think the chain should be that loose, the two tension sprockets are practically touching, the chain traverses are almost rubbing.Have you tried to spread them and check if the spring is being extended by any amount? You might need to lose a link pair, if there's a split link then its not a huge job, if you know how the file down the pins clinch, prise off the outer link side and or use a pin punch to drive out the pin. Must be plenty of videos on YouTube. Chains stretch and sprockets wear, properly you replace all when tensioning reaches it's limit, I've had to do this on various motorbikes belonging to my lads over the years, safest approach, but for everything thing from my first bike to farm machines and combine harvesters, it was often necessary to drop a link pair to restore tension. Eventually worn main sprockets will defeat even this, as the wear shortens the sprocket pitch, while the chain stretch lengthens it, causing links to eventually 'ride' the sprocket teeth, and break or throw the chain. Could be lethal on a motorbike. Certainly very expensive on the common BMW N47 2l diesel engine timing chain, which I'm sure some readers here have gashed their teeth over when they heard the chain chatter that preceded a potential chain jump, timing failure, and engine valve destruction. More than €2k if you changed it in time, Up to €6K some paid, and if it broke while driving......But I'm rambling. Check the lateral play in the chain, you'll know if the slack is too great. Popping a link pair might,/should work short term, unless chain and sprockets are worn to sh*t.

Thanks Deezel, I stripped down the tensioner and removed the spring. It actually looked ok so I turned it around (don't ask me why) and put it back on. When I tightened it all back the top tensioner wheel is now straight up and doesn't move and the bottom one is down but springs/tensions up and down with the mower forward and back motion. Chain seems tight on back sprocket wheel now. I tried it on the back garden and it seems fine. Can't understand why it looks ok now after just replacing it and putting back together but the way it is now looks more sensible. Chain and tensioner pinions separated. Will give it a good run at the weekend to see. Jaasus I might get another year out of it yet :-) Thanks for all the help.

Lewis_Benson wrote: »

Just purchased A Mountfield 1530h today, being delivered tomorrow.
I have 3/4 of an acre which takes 5 hours with the 21 inch self propelled.

Looking forward to using it.

Used it yesterday.
I have 3/4 acre which I was cutting with a self drive 21 inch .
It used to take 5 hours.
Did the whole place in 2 hours yesterday.

Its a beast.

New Home wrote: »

Any views on this one, please?

At least you can use it from a 3 pin plug, unlike their current cordless special buy which requires two 20v 4ah batteries, not included, hopelessly out of stock due to world shortage. and no idea when they'll be available. They're asking up to £70 each on ebay.
Tip: two of the smaller power tool 2ah ones will work, but for half as long and with the risk of excess demand on the smaller ( or less numerous) cells.

cathy427 wrote: »

What would be the smallest size ride on with a mulcher on that would be worth getting to save time time cutting a half acre? *smallest cause want to keep cost down and shed entrance is narrow.

Or do the smaller ones even come with a mulcher?

how about a buggy style ride on like this one, should be narrow enough for most garden sheds, just make sure the horsepower (HP) is above 10

as for mulching all you need do is just plug the back shoot so that the cuttings don't go into the collection box, some hard cardboard would do the trick

Etesia is fine if you have €5k to spend. Otherwise this 72cm cut for little over €2k,
https://monaghanhire.com/products/castelgarden-tractor-xf135hd-72cm-rider-hyd-352cc-engine

or this 80cm ride on tractor for about €2.5k
https://monaghanhire.com/products/castelgarden-xdc140hd-tractor-mower

monkeynuz wrote: »

Etesia is better though.

if you're willing to remortgage your house

fryup wrote: »

how about a buggy style ride on like this one, should be narrow enough for most garden sheds, just make sure the horsepower (HP) is above 10

as for mulching all you need do is just plug the back shoot so that the cuttings don't go into the collection box, some hard cardboard would do the trick

Thanks a mill. Something like could suit for a while or indeed for as long as it stays going. At 30" inch obviously going to take long than the Castlegarden below but a totally different product really and still faster than the walk behind.

Dohvolle wrote: »

I am on a 1/2 acre, so I think I have about half of that in grass. I got a Castelgarden XDC150HD for €2500 in april (From the Stiga family). It has a mulching option, with a 250l collector box. Takes about 30 minutes to cut everything. An hour to do it by the book (criss cross)
Looking around that's kind of the standard. Go for something without a collector and you'll be around the €2000 mark, though prices increased recently.
You'll get cheaper 2nd hand, but this could be a false economy when you end up replacing belts, blades or engine parts..

deezell wrote: »

Etesia is fine if you have €5k to spend. Otherwise this 72cm cut for little over €2k,
https://monaghanhire.com/products/castelgarden-tractor-xf135hd-72cm-rider-hyd-352cc-engine

or this 80cm ride on tractor for about €2.5k
https://monaghanhire.com/products/castelgarden-xdc140hd-tractor-mower

Thanks guys.
So around €2500 for Castlegarden seems to be where market is at. Is there much difference between the 140 and 150 and do the other numbers matter? Take your point on the second hand ones. In the dealers (as opposed to donedeal) do they have ones they have ... refurbished for want of a better work.

As I say have budget and space concerns in terms of getting it into the shed but appreciate your point that nearly better going new if at all possible. See they seem to come with hitch and battery charger but mulching kit is extra.

monkeynuz wrote: »

That’s a little extreme.

I’d rather buy good than cheap.

To be honest for 1/2 acre you’d be better off with a good 21” walk behind, not a cheap one.

If went new would the Castlegarden not be considered good given that it would only have to do the 1/2 acre (full site is just over .8 acre so rougly 0.5 lawns.

In terms of the walk behind my issue is time - enjoy garden but with walk behind people tell me you are looking at 3 and half hours minimum.


Thanks for all the help - much appreciated.
Two good extremes there to consider - the small buggy style to tied me over or new Castlegarden.
Would the small buggy style be widely available 2nd hand at around that price point? Or would they be rare?

The xdc140 is the best choice for durability and residual value. Cut width of 84cm, overall width of 88cm, length with the bag removed is about 1.8m, so if this fits in your shed you're sorted. The 72cm compact will take more laps to mow, and may feel a bit bumpier due to the small wheels. If it was to be driven by a large man, say 18st, like someone I know, I wouldn't choose the buggy type.

Is it possible to get replacement bags for 20 year old mowers? Have a 102 castle garden that’s working A1, but the bag is gone to bits.

Dohvolle wrote: »

I clicked on Deezell's link earlier and now google ads wan't me to buy another lawnmower...

If I google say, 'Euros 2020 Italy v Austria' to read the reports, Google ads thinks I want a hotel there. Google ads are shameless. I've taken to using the Samsung Internet browser on the phone, seems better. I think the telly is listening too, I get ads that can only be the result of eavesdropping.

Looking to buy a new Ride On.

I’ve narrowed it to 2 but can’t decide, hoping someone in the know might give me some pro’s and con’s on them or indeed let me know why one is better than the other.

Honda HF2417hme
Husqvarna TC242TX

Thanks in advance.