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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

aoifski

I'd appreciate some advice about lawns and lawn mowers. We have about 1/4 -1/3 an acre of lawn. Top soil was put down when we moved in about 4 years ago, not the best stuff - quite stoney. We raked but did not rotovate it at the time, and then rolled and then sowed a lawn.

It's ok - the surface is a bit rough still and not flat. We have a petrol rotary at the moment and it takes quite a while to cut all this grass. And it grows like wildfire in the spring/summer.

We want to buy new rideon mower and I am all for buying a tractor mower to spin around the lawn in as little time as possible.

My husband has gotten it in his head somehow that he wants this manicured lawn, and wants to buy a petrol powered cylinder mower - the ones used for cricket and golf greens! Believe me our lawn and surface is far from this!

Questions:

To get even surface with manicured lawn would we have to rotovate and completely redo the surface/soil and resow?
Presumably a cylinder mower (self propelled) is totally unsuitable for what we have right now?
Any tractor mower recommendations for a nice cut which will appease my husband?!

Thanks in advance!

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scouser123

deezell wrote: »

I was curious about the second arm in the picture. I thought perhaps it was the old one pushed in for the photo, but you say its additional. Is it also sprung, or fixed. It's not a mod done by some previous owner, or have you had this machine from new. 98 was the oldest 102 manual I could find online, I have a printout of my older one which had a single adjustable tension sprocket, no springs, it was probably 96-97 model, I bought it in 2001, came with the house.

Hi Deezell, I've had it from New - probably around 98 - as far as I know this was the original double pinion tensioner but I can't find any picture of that setup anywhere. The two pinions spread out a bit during operation and the chain runs between the two, top of the chain to the underside of one and the bottom of the chain to the top of the other if you get me. I'll try to take a photo of it actually operating. Cheers.

deezell

I was curious about the second arm in the picture. I thought perhaps it was the old one pushed in for the photo, but you say its additional. Is it also sprung, or fixed. It's not a mod done by some previous owner, or have you had this machine from new. 98 was the oldest 102 manual I could find online, I have a printout of my older one which had a single adjustable tension sprocket, no springs, it was probably 96-97 model, I bought it in 2001, came with the house.

scouser123

deezell wrote: »

Some diagrams here.
http://www.lawn-king.co.uk/downloads/57523339208_02_2013_12_54_22.pdf
The tensioner pinion 38 on page 30 is held under spring tension againt the underside of the chain. There should be enough pressure to keep the chain slack to a minimum. A well worn chain will exceed the range of the tensioner, you might need to pop out a link pair. In my experience this chain could be very slack and not fall off unless the mower was jockied hard in reverse, the drive pressure is then applied to the tensioner. Older models had an adjustable fixed position tensioner, this looks to be a sprung self tensioning type. Is there free movement of the sprung pinion lever? It might be sticky. Also check that all the retaining bolts on the rear crown sprocket into the differential are tight and not sheared off. If this large sprocket becomes loose it will throw the chain.

Thanks for the prompt reply Deezell , Jeez Larry looks even older than mine:-)
Yes I have checked the diagram you sent but it only shows one pinion tensioner mine has 2. Nort sure if you could see my photos but does the routing of the chain look ok? I think it must be as I haven't taken it off. When you say the back sprocket I assume you mean the big threaded metal wheel connected to the back wheel? This does look on solid. I wondered had the sprockets become misaligned but its hard to see if they are all in a line. The two pinions do seem to move ok I will try to get the chain back on the back sprocket again at the weekend and see how much tension there is on the chain. Might get a better photo of it with the chain on. Might also try your suggestion of taking a link out - if I can find the connection point :-) Cheers again for your help. Much appreciated.

deezell

scouser123 wrote: »

I have a castlegarden TC102 (about 25 years old but like a friend to me).....

I can't argue with that. Sad day when I sold off Larry here, in his 20s, to work in a nice small retirement garden..

deezell

scouser123 wrote: »

Hi, Hopefully one of you guys can help me with this.

I have a castlegarden TC102 (about 25 years old but like a friend to me) and the drive chain came off the back wheel. When I checked one of the Pinions was really badly worn. I managed to get the stuck chain from the back flywheel and get a new pinion and replaced it. I have linked two pics of the old pinion and the newly installed one. Thought I had it sorted but it came off the drive wheel again today during a mulch which is what I use it for now.

The routing of the chain via the tensionor looks wrong but I believe that was the way it was before I replaced the pinion.
The chain seems to go in both directions between the tensioner pinions.
In one of the pics the chain is loose on the tension spring as its off the back drive wheel.

The chain seemed tight enough when I put it back on but.......
Is the routing correct?

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10219789362828158&set=pcb.10219789365588227
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10219789362868159&set=pcb.10219789365588227

Many thanks for any help.

Cheers,

Some diagrams here.
http://www.lawn-king.co.uk/downloads/57523339208_02_2013_12_54_22.pdf
The tensioner pinion 38 on page 30 is held under spring tension againt the underside of the chain. There should be enough pressure to keep the chain slack to a minimum. A well worn chain will exceed the range of the tensioner, you might need to pop out a link pair. In my experience this chain could be very slack and not fall off unless the mower was jockied hard in reverse, the drive pressure is then applied to the tensioner. Older models had an adjustable fixed position tensioner, this looks to be a sprung self tensioning type. Is there free movement of the sprung pinion lever? It might be sticky. Also check that all the retaining bolts on the rear crown sprocket into the differential are tight and not sheared off. If this large sprocket becomes loose it will throw the chain.

scouser123

Hi, Hopefully one of you guys can help me with this.

I have a castlegarden TC102 (about 25 years old but like a friend to me) and the drive chain came off the back wheel. When I checked one of the Pinions was really badly worn. I managed to get the stuck chain from the back flywheel and get a new pinion and replaced it. I have linked two pics of the old pinion and the newly installed one. Thought I had it sorted but it came off the drive wheel again today during a mulch which is what I use it for now.

The routing of the chain via the tensionor looks wrong but I believe that was the way it was before I replaced the pinion.
The chain seems to go in both directions between the tensioner pinions.
In one of the pics the chain is loose on the tension spring as its off the back drive wheel.

The chain seemed tight enough when I put it back on but.......
Is the routing correct?

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10219789362828158&set=pcb.10219789365588227
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10219789362868159&set=pcb.10219789365588227

Many thanks for any help.

Cheers,

deezell

Dohvolle wrote: »

Small issue last night. Have Castelgarden XDC150HD, after cutting lawn using collector box, decided to fit mulching plug.
However when testing after fitting blade won't engage and engine cuts out instead.
Throttle was at normal operating speed.
Handbrake was not on. (blade won't engage with handbrake on).
Only have it since April, Used Mulching plug just once before, no issues.

There should be some part of the mulch plug handle or assembly that engages the grass bag interlock button switch, otherwise the mower will act like the grass bag is off and cut the engine when you try engaging the blade. That or you have to replace the bag after you've inserted the plug to achieve the same effect.

deezell

BullBauld wrote: »

My sister was using ride on yesterday and hit a rock. Now the deck is sitting completely on the ground and the height setting lever is loose lime it's not attached to the deck.
I can't where to reattach. Or is this a bigger problem?

Thanks

Depends on the mower make and model, but it often is two bowden cables fitted vertically at the back of the deck either side i'm guessing the rock lifted the deck up and over the hanging spigots on the end of the cables, which then popped out of their retention slots, leaving the deck unsuspended.

BullBauld

My sister was using ride on yesterday and hit a rock. Now the deck is sitting completely on the ground and the height setting lever is loose lime it's not attached to the deck.
I can't where to reattach. Or is this a bigger problem?

Thanks

The Continental Op

Probably one location where a bit of Threadlock would really do some good. Don't worry about using it as it is still quite easy to remove the nut or bolt afterwards but it does normally make them stay put.

tombrown

I just found the bolt !!! I remember stopping at one point yesterday to move a bench and the engine cut out, as usual, when I got off the seat. I thought the blades spun a bit longer than usual, but when everything was fine when I started back up I thought no more of it. Went to the that spot on the lawn just now - and there was the bolt, so maybe similar to your situation - I just didn't tighten it properly.

Thins is, I was over an hour cutting grass after I shed the bolt, some of it quite long & heavy, so its a wonder the pulley stayed in place all that time. I guess I better check I haven't damaged the belt again.

The Continental Op

tombrown wrote: »

This mower is an unending saga (but I'm quiet enjoying it all the same).

I managed to remove the pulley & fit the drive belt; I removed the bolt using an impact wrench, but put it back on with just a regular socket wrench.

Anyway I successfully mowed the whole lawn yesterday, then, this morning, I started the engine & the pulley fell off I cant find the bolt, so assume it must have fallen out while I was mowing, and maybe the spin of the pulley kept it in place until I stopped it last night.

SO I need to replace the bolt - no big problem. But I am curious as to how it can have come off. As you said the spin of the pulley should serve to tighten rater than loose in. Is it just something as simple as it not being tight enough or does this point to damaged thread in the receiving socket (god forbid)

Something similar, that was much easier to see what happened.

I'd just changed the clutch springs on a chainsaw. Probably not tightened the nut up to much. Wanted to test the clutch so didn't put the chain or cover back on. Went out side of the workshop and fired it up. Revved up a couple of times then switched off.

The momentum of the nut obviously kept it turning as it came off when when the engine stopped, the clutch drum dropped off and I can see it now shooting off up the drive.

I've had similar with stimmer heads.

Never like to over tighten stuff I'm going to remove again.

tombrown

deezell wrote: »

It's regular right hand. Engine rotates clockwise looking down, so shaft torque to the bolt is always tending to tighten.

This mower is an unending saga (but I'm quiet enjoying it all the same).

I managed to remove the pulley & fit the drive belt; I removed the bolt using an impact wrench, but put it back on with just a regular socket wrench.

Anyway I successfully mowed the whole lawn yesterday, then, this morning, I started the engine & the pulley fell off

I cant find the bolt, so assume it must have fallen out while I was mowing, and maybe the spin of the pulley kept it in place until I stopped it last night.

SO I need to replace the bolt - no big problem. But I am curious as to how it can have come off. As you said the spin of the pulley should serve to tighten rater than loose in. Is it just something as simple as it not being tight enough or does this point to damaged thread in the receiving socket (god forbid)

tombrown

kerdiff wrote: »

I have a 2005 Stiga Estate.

I am pretty sure that is the same mower as mine just under a different brand name (Stiga own Castelgarden), so the manual I posted should be good

PCeeeee

Has anyone seen Lidl lawnmower in shops? I tried two yesterday and no sign.

kerdiff

tombrown wrote:

DO you know make & model? Looks just like my Castelgraden, but they are normally red, not yellow. I have the workshop manual that includes all instructions for mine -

I have a 2005 Stiga Estate.

The Continental Op

bamayang wrote: »

In the back right of your image there is a vertical bolt, rotate that (should be another one on the far side) to raise the bed up or down at the back.

Likewise with long silver shaft on top left of your pick, loosening and rotating the nut on that will drop front of the deck down.

As well as being level side to side I think it needs to be 5-7mm higher at the back?

bamayang

kerdiff wrote: »

Hi all, I'm looking for instruction to level the deck on my rideon lawnmower, if anyone can tell me how to do this it would be much appreciated, here is a side view of the deck, just wondering which nuts should I be loosening or tightening to make it level. Thanks in advance.

In the back right of your image there is a vertical bolt, rotate that (should be another one on the far side) to raise the bed up or down at the back.

Likewise with long silver shaft on top left of your pick, loosening and rotating the nut on that will drop front of the deck down.

tombrown

kerdiff wrote: »

Hi all, I'm looking for instruction to level the deck on my rideon lawnmower, if anyone can tell me how to do this it would be much appreciated, here is a side view of the deck, just wondering which nuts should I be loosening or tightening to make it level. Thanks in advance.

DO you know make & model?
Looks just like my Castelgraden, but they are normally red, not yellow. I have the workshop manual that includes all instructions for mine - https://www.motoruf.de/mo/ersatzteillisten/pdf.php?file=GlobalGarden/Kundendiensthandbuch/102-122/Wsm102_EN_2006.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0O0ffTJ6woCCYQPhttOmg7

kerdiff

Hi all, I'm looking for instruction to level the deck on my rideon lawnmower, if anyone can tell me how to do this it would be much appreciated, here is a side view of the deck, just wondering which nuts should I be loosening or tightening to make it level. Thanks in advance.

deezell

tombrown wrote: »

Coming back to this question, maybe yourself or The Continental Op can answer for me.

I have an option to loan an impact wrench from the local garage, but the guy warned me that if the central bolt in the pulley is reverse threaded (left hand threaded) and I try to unscrew it the wrong way, as I would a regular bolt, then I would break it.

I am 90% sure this bolt is a regular/right hand thread - the workshop manual does not call it out as reverse thread (while it does for the bolt attaching one of the blades, for example), and looking the bolt up in the parts list & at online suppliers I can see no mention of it being a left hand/reverse thread. But I want to be totally sure, or I may regret it

As a reminder this is a Castelgarden TCR 102 Hydro (2005) ride on mower, and the bolt I am undoing is the central bolt on the main pulley.

Input appreciated

It's regular right hand. Engine rotates clockwise looking down, so shaft torque to the bolt is always tending to tighten.

tombrown

deezell wrote: »

If I recall correctly, you can slide a long reach large diameter screwdriver through one of the holes and catch it on chassis, enough to stop the engine turning, or slide a pry bar between the pulleys, into the space between the pulley hub and a bolt pushed through one on the holes, then just rotate the pulleys until the bar catches on the chassis.
On one occasion in the past I popped the top engine circular grille cover and put a long socket bar on the top engine nut, turning until the bar was wedged against the frame. Happily the bottom nut opened first, but it might only loosen the top one. On another occasion a large vice grip on the hub between the pulleys tightened to the max so it wouldn't slip done the trick.

Coming back to this question, maybe yourself or The Continental Op can answer for me.

I have an option to loan an impact wrench from the local garage, but the guy warned me that if the central bolt in the pulley is reverse threaded (left hand threaded) and I try to unscrew it the wrong way, as I would a regular bolt, then I would break it.

I am 90% sure this bolt is a regular/right hand thread - the workshop manual does not call it out as reverse thread (while it does for the bolt attaching one of the blades, for example), and looking the bolt up in the parts list & at online suppliers I can see no mention of it being a left hand/reverse thread. But I want to be totally sure, or I may regret it

As a reminder this is a Castelgarden TCR 102 Hydro (2005) ride on mower, and the bolt I am undoing is the central bolt on the main pulley.

Input appreciated

deezell

While in Brodericks t'other day getting parts, I spotted this newly introduced full size (21") power-driven Cobra cordless mower, it's a mighty looking mower in the large garden spectrum, 2 by 40v 5Ah batteries, claimed operating time of 90 minutes per charge. Rrp of €649 is comparable to same size quality brand petrol mowers, so it could be a game changer.

https://www.lawnmowerworld.ie/product/cobra-mx51s80v-battery-21-lawnmower/

The Continental Op

SomeFool wrote: »

Anyone have any experience with this Lidl lawnmower? Is it worth a shot? Thanks!

I'm on my second. First is still running, about 6 years old and had a dogs life it lives outside under a table, still works but wheels are getting a bit wonky and its got a bit rusty, still starts first time. I use it for really rough work much like I've always done,

SomeFool

Anyone have any experience with this Lidl lawnmower? Is it worth a shot? Thanks!

Nobbies

Any such treatment/product available to apply on underside of lawnmower deck to help prevent grass from drying to the deck.

Usually clean the deck after every cut,but can miss it on occasion.

fryup

anyone know the width of the cut of this aldi mower

The Continental Op

Know what you mean and its quite funny really if you look at the pictures on the Amazon listing page. They have a picture of a snapper lawn rider up on that jack and that particular mower is designed to tip up at 90 degrees on its rear frame for maintenance.

There are far too many safety concerns with using a hoist. I wouldn't think twice about using one but it takes a bit of common sense, thought and care.

tombrown

The Continental Op wrote: »

Just bought this Oregon 42-086 Clip Lift, Hydraulic Maintenance Jack for Ride-on lawnmowers and Garden Tractors Expensive solution but works really well. Quite scary the first time using it but its all very solid and can recommend. You can get some cheaper ones that wind up on a screw thread.

That looks an idea, especially as I just looked at the workshop manual for the mower & it explicitly states you should not use winches or hoists to lift the mower.

The only think with your one is it lifts the mower on its side - the advantage of having it upright (on its hind legs, so to speak) is that I can work on it while standing up. That said this can work, albeit slightly less comfortable, and, if nothing else, it gives me another avenue to explore

The Continental Op

Just bought this Oregon 42-086 Clip Lift, Hydraulic Maintenance Jack for Ride-on lawnmowers and Garden Tractors Expensive solution but works really well. Quite scary the first time using it but its all very solid and can recommend. You can get some cheaper ones that wind up on a screw thread.