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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

1…8283858788…110

Comments

  • #4202
    the goon
    Registered Users Posts: 460 ✭✭the goon


    Hi all,


    My ears aren't the greatest with tenitis so find my petrol lawnmower hard these days. I'm hoping to get a manual lawnmower to do intermittent cuts and was wondering if anyone has a recommendation for sub €150?


    Appreciate it.


  • #4203
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    the goon wrote: »
    Hi all,


    My ears aren't the greatest with tenitis so find my petrol lawnmower hard these days. I'm hoping to get a manual lawnmower to do intermittent cuts and was wondering if anyone has a recommendation for sub €150?


    Appreciate it.

    Or just get these?

    PEL510A_i__461d.jpg

    https://www.safetydirect.ie/pel510a.html


  • #4204
    tDw6u1bj
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 207 ✭✭tDw6u1bj


    deezell wrote: »
    Or just get these?

    PEL510A_i__461d.jpg

    https://www.safetydirect.ie/pel510a.html

    Yup, 2 things to add.

    1. Go for the more expensive ones (pelator 3), it's a big step up for only a 10euro difference.

    2. Wear plugs as well. It's not one or the other, they work in different frequency ranges (muffs do high, plugs do low) so you won't get protection without both.

    That aside, you could go for an electric. They're a good deal quieter.
    They're also a lot lighter, easier to move around and generally less hassle. Generally better option unless you've got a large lawn IMO.


  • #4205
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    Hi

    I have a castelgarden 102 Hydro ride on mower from 2005. At the start of last summer I replaced the drive belt, and the mower was fine all year. This year it has been fine up until the last 2 weeks, but now the drive belt keeps jumping off the pulley on the back axel when I start the engine.

    I have checked the belt and it is in good condition & properly fitted. There is an option to adjust the tension, and I have looked at that - there is spring that is meant to be 109-111 mm in length, it is actually a bit tighter than that (~115mm), so over tensioned, but has been like that since I installed the belt.

    Could that be a problem? I would have thought under-tensioned would cause what I have, not over-tensioned.

    Any other ideas?


  • #4206
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    Actually, I did find some damage to the belt after all - there is a split on the backside of the belt, so it is getting caught on one of the guards around a pulley wheel. I'll have to order & fit a new one then, but it does give rise to a couple of questions:

    1. Is it feasible/advisable to temporarily repair the belt with tape and turn it round, so the split faces the opposite direction to the belt rotation, just so I can mow the grass while waiting for the new belt?

    2. Any tips on what to check to see if I can find anything on the mower itself that caused the damage?

    thanks


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  • #4207
    bamayang
    Registered Users Posts: 700 ✭✭✭bamayang


    Hi, long time follower here. Have a Castlegarden 102 ride on with B&S engine, it was passed down from father and is going since 2001. It is getting to be on last legs and am planning to source a new one towards end of this season. Or maybe should think about moving sooner the way prices seem to be jumping on everything.

    Could anyone reccomend something similar? Have about 2,000sqm of lawn area. Dont like mulching, prefer to collect the grass. Have a good lot of trees in the garden, but dont mind going back after with a strimmer to tidy those.
    What would be my best bet to try and get similar longevity? I'd rather pay a little more now and avoid regular breakdowns.
    Cheers


  • #4208
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    tombrown wrote: »
    Actually, I did find some damage to the belt after all - there is a split on the backside of the belt, so it is getting caught on one of the guards around a pulley wheel. I'll have to order & fit a new one then, but it does give rise to a couple of questions:

    1. Is it feasible/advisable to temporarily repair the belt with tape and turn it round, so the split faces the opposite direction to the belt rotation, just so I can mow the grass while waiting for the new belt?

    2. Any tips on what to check to see if I can find anything on the mower itself that caused the damage?

    thanks
    Added photo of belt - based on the direction of the split, I am thinking if I reverse the belt so it is pointing the opposite direction it wont catch, and I can at least cut the grass pending the new belt


  • #4209
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,107 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Maybe if its not too difficult to get at and change then try it the other way around but be prepared for sods law to kick in and have it snap right in the middle of the lawn or the furthest point from where you store it whichever is worse

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • #4210
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    The Continental Op wrote: »
    Maybe if its not too difficult to get at and change then try it the other way around but be prepared for sods law to kick in and have it snap right in the middle of the lawn or the furthest point from where you store it whichever is worse

    Thanks

    Yep - that is what normally happens, the point in the garden that is furthest from both the garage & the grass cutting pile, but only once the collection basket is over 90% full.

    I can live with that, so long as I wont be risking damaging the mower by putting the belt on like that.

    Any idea what may have caused that damage? Can it be as simple as a stick or similar getting caught up?


  • #4211
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,107 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    tombrown wrote: »
    Thanks

    Yep - that is what normally happens, the point in the garden that is furthest from both the garage & the grass cutting pile, but only once the collection basket is over 90% full.

    I can live with that, so long as I wont be risking damaging the mower by putting the belt on like that.

    Any idea what may have caused that damage? Can it be as simple as a stick or similar getting caught up?

    If its not been replaced then just old age.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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  • #4212
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    The Continental Op wrote: »
    If its not been replaced then just old age.

    I only put it on a year ago. The one before was worn in multiple places, this one only has that damage in one place


  • #4213
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,107 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    tombrown wrote: »
    I only put it on a year ago. The one before was worn in multiple places, this one only has that damage in one place

    Something stuck up in it then? Then I've found different qualities of belt some that last forever and some that hardly make the season out.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • #4214
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    tombrown wrote: »
    I only put it on a year ago. The one before was worn in multiple places, this one only has that damage in one place
    You'd be better off using the old belt if you kept it, that split belt is very far gone, and tape won't be worth a toss. Severe overtensioning can indeed cause belts to ride off a pulley, especially a tensioner or idler pulley, as the extra strain will tilt the pulley shaft on its mounting plate, causing the belt to ride hard against the pulley rims, fray the edge and then catch and jump off, usually with a big nick out of the belt. Usually spring loaded tensioners don't require adjustment, it would tend to be a little more extended with a new belt, shortening as the belt wore and bedded in. Sometimes an idler or tensioner pulley bearing will seize over the winter, the belt might slip over a back idler for a while, but it will likely damage the belt, and a stuck or sticky front V idler will easily take a chunk from a belt on startup.


  • #4215
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    Thanks

    I don't have the old belt - it was a mess, so I may try with this one just top try & get grass cut tomorrow before a new one gets fitted - if it snaps, nothing is lost, apart from my back pushing the mower back to the garage. I'll reduce the tension too


  • #4216
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    OK - sorted my temporary fix - taped up the belt to prevent fraying, and reversed it, so the split won't catch on guards anymore. Drove it around a bit to prove to myself it works. I suspect it wont last too long before it snaps, but may be able to get the grass cut tomorrow evening, to give me a bit of time to replace the belt when the new one comes.

    One problem I have is loosening the central nut on the main engine pulley (see attached diagram). I cant budge it - tried socket wrench, wheel wrench, electric screwdriver (with socket), even my drill - but as I have to try & hold the pulley wheel at the same time it proves impossible. The manual does suggest there is a special tool that will fit into the holes 4a, shown, but I cant find it to buy anywhere.

    I can work around that by dismantling the timing belt & removing some other parts, but its the long way round, and, one of these days, I'll forget to put some critical part back :)


  • #4217
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    tombrown wrote: »
    OK -
    .....One problem I have is loosening the central nut on the main engine pulley (see attached diagram). I cant budge it - tried socket wrench, wheel wrench, electric screwdriver (with socket), even my drill - but as I have to try & hold the pulley wheel at the same time it proves impossible. The manual does suggest there is a special tool that will fit into the holes 4a, shown, but I cant find it to buy anywhere.....
    If I recall correctly, you can slide a long reach large diameter screwdriver through one of the holes and catch it on chassis, enough to stop the engine turning, or slide a pry bar between the pulleys, into the space between the pulley hub and a bolt pushed through one on the holes, then just rotate the pulleys until the bar catches on the chassis.
    On one occasion in the past I popped the top engine circular grille cover and put a long socket bar on the top engine nut, turning until the bar was wedged against the frame. Happily the bottom nut opened first, but it might only loosen the top one. On another occasion a large vice grip on the hub between the pulleys tightened to the max so it wouldn't slip done the trick.


  • #4218
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    Thanks. I might still need an impact wrench, even if I can lock the wheel. Not worth buying one, as I cant see when else I would use it, not sure I know anyone who would have one to borrow ... hire maybe


  • #4219
    bamayang
    Registered Users Posts: 700 ✭✭✭bamayang


    tombrown wrote: »
    Thanks. I might still need an impact wrench, even if I can lock the wheel. Not worth buying one, as I cant see when else I would use it, not sure I know anyone who would have one to borrow ... hire maybe

    I dont think you need to take that pulley off at all. I did one last year and just removed the two bolts that come down either side of the pulley and then dropped all the idler pulleys back up under the seat and that gave enough slack to get the belt off.

    I have a feeling that pulley is designed not to come off, or it may be reverse thread.


  • #4220
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    The workshop manual says to take it off.

    If you don't take it off, it is impossible to take the drive belt off without first taking the timing belt off as it is on the same pulley axle, and is mounted below the drive belt. To get the timing belt off you need to loosen one of the other timing belt pulleys or is to tight to ease off.

    Then. even when you have the timing belt removed there is a spring loaded bar ("mobile guide pulley" - see 2 on diagram) that is set so close to the pulley that the drive belt sits on, it doesn't leave enough space to get a belt in, even when pushed forward as shown (note the drive belt pulley is the one at the top of the picture - the one at the bottom is the timing belt pulley).

    I could fit the damaged belt in yesterday as it is stripped in one place, but for a new belt I have to remove that bar.

    So - all possible without removing the pulley, but complicated, and lots of room to put things back wrong :)


  • #4221
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    MAULBROOK wrote: »
    Dose any one know can you get battery powered ride on lawnmowers in Ireland, I would get a robot mower but I cant find one that will pick up dog shxt before the cut


    https://www.donedeal.ie/gardenequipment-for-sale/weibang-ion-battery-ride-on-lawnmower/28091583


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  • #4222
    fryup
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,067 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    any idea of the price? deezell


  • #4223
    the goon
    Registered Users Posts: 460 ✭✭the goon


    deezell wrote: »
    Or just get these?

    PEL510A_i__461d.jpg

    https://www.safetydirect.ie/pel510a.html

    Ya. Have them.


  • #4224
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    fryup wrote: »
    any idea of the price? deezell

    4 grand South of the border.
    https://monaghanhire.com/products/weibang-wb81ec-b-e-rider-battery-ride-on-lawnmower

    UK prices seem higher


  • #4225
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,107 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    deezell wrote: »
    4 grand South of the border.
    https://monaghanhire.com/products/weibang-wb81ec-b-e-rider-battery-ride-on-lawnmower

    UK prices seem higher

    See if you can do a deal with them I got about 10% off their advertised price on a new mower delivered.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • #4226
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    Recommendation needed

    I have recently been working on my castelgarden Hydro 102 ride on mower, repairing & then replacing the drive belt; this requires tipping the mower upright (resting on the collection box arms) to get access to the underside. I normally have to enlist the help of my wife to do this - I take the most of the weight, but I need that little bit extra to get it fully upright. Now I've pulled something in my back :) ... it 's temporary only, but the missus is banning me from lifting it again, and says she wont help me next time I ask. She's probably right

    So I am wondering if I can install some sort of (mains powered) winch into the joists in the garage ceiling. I foresee attaching the cable to the front bar and then winching from above & behind (with blocks on the back wheels) to get the thing upright.

    Does this make sense? If so can any recommend a solution?


  • #4227
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,107 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Just bought this Oregon 42-086 Clip Lift, Hydraulic Maintenance Jack for Ride-on lawnmowers and Garden Tractors Expensive solution but works really well. Quite scary the first time using it but its all very solid and can recommend. You can get some cheaper ones that wind up on a screw thread.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • #4228
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    The Continental Op wrote: »
    Just bought this Oregon 42-086 Clip Lift, Hydraulic Maintenance Jack for Ride-on lawnmowers and Garden Tractors Expensive solution but works really well. Quite scary the first time using it but its all very solid and can recommend. You can get some cheaper ones that wind up on a screw thread.

    That looks an idea, especially as I just looked at the workshop manual for the mower & it explicitly states you should not use winches or hoists to lift the mower.

    The only think with your one is it lifts the mower on its side - the advantage of having it upright (on its hind legs, so to speak) is that I can work on it while standing up. That said this can work, albeit slightly less comfortable, and, if nothing else, it gives me another avenue to explore


  • #4229
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,107 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Know what you mean and its quite funny really if you look at the pictures on the Amazon listing page. They have a picture of a snapper lawn rider up on that jack and that particular mower is designed to tip up at 90 degrees on its rear frame for maintenance.

    There are far too many safety concerns with using a hoist. I wouldn't think twice about using one but it takes a bit of common sense, thought and care.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • #4230
    fryup
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,067 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    anyone know the width of the cut of this aldi mower


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  • #4231
    Nobbies
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 351 ✭✭Nobbies


    Any such treatment/product available to apply on underside of lawnmower deck to help prevent grass from drying to the deck.

    Usually clean the deck after every cut,but can miss it on occasion.


  • #4232
    SomeFool
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,452 ✭✭✭SomeFool


    Anyone have any experience with this Lidl lawnmower? Is it worth a shot? Thanks!


  • #4233
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,107 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    SomeFool wrote: »
    Anyone have any experience with this Lidl lawnmower? Is it worth a shot? Thanks!

    I'm on my second. First is still running, about 6 years old and had a dogs life it lives outside under a table, still works but wheels are getting a bit wonky and its got a bit rusty, still starts first time. I use it for really rough work much like I've always done,

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • #4234
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    While in Brodericks t'other day getting parts, I spotted this newly introduced full size (21") power-driven Cobra cordless mower, it's a mighty looking mower in the large garden spectrum, 2 by 40v 5Ah batteries, claimed operating time of 90 minutes per charge. Rrp of €649 is comparable to same size quality brand petrol mowers, so it could be a game changer.

    mx51s80v_red_left-angle.jpg

    https://www.lawnmowerworld.ie/product/cobra-mx51s80v-battery-21-lawnmower/


  • #4235
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    deezell wrote: »
    If I recall correctly, you can slide a long reach large diameter screwdriver through one of the holes and catch it on chassis, enough to stop the engine turning, or slide a pry bar between the pulleys, into the space between the pulley hub and a bolt pushed through one on the holes, then just rotate the pulleys until the bar catches on the chassis.
    On one occasion in the past I popped the top engine circular grille cover and put a long socket bar on the top engine nut, turning until the bar was wedged against the frame. Happily the bottom nut opened first, but it might only loosen the top one. On another occasion a large vice grip on the hub between the pulleys tightened to the max so it wouldn't slip done the trick.
    Coming back to this question, maybe yourself or The Continental Op can answer for me.


    I have an option to loan an impact wrench from the local garage, but the guy warned me that if the central bolt in the pulley is reverse threaded (left hand threaded) and I try to unscrew it the wrong way, as I would a regular bolt, then I would break it.


    I am 90% sure this bolt is a regular/right hand thread - the workshop manual does not call it out as reverse thread (while it does for the bolt attaching one of the blades, for example), and looking the bolt up in the parts list & at online suppliers I can see no mention of it being a left hand/reverse thread. But I want to be totally sure, or I may regret it :)


    As a reminder this is a Castelgarden TCR 102 Hydro (2005) ride on mower, and the bolt I am undoing is the central bolt on the main pulley.


    Input appreciated


  • #4236
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


    tombrown wrote: »
    Coming back to this question, maybe yourself or The Continental Op can answer for me.


    I have an option to loan an impact wrench from the local garage, but the guy warned me that if the central bolt in the pulley is reverse threaded (left hand threaded) and I try to unscrew it the wrong way, as I would a regular bolt, then I would break it.


    I am 90% sure this bolt is a regular/right hand thread - the workshop manual does not call it out as reverse thread (while it does for the bolt attaching one of the blades, for example), and looking the bolt up in the parts list & at online suppliers I can see no mention of it being a left hand/reverse thread. But I want to be totally sure, or I may regret it :)


    As a reminder this is a Castelgarden TCR 102 Hydro (2005) ride on mower, and the bolt I am undoing is the central bolt on the main pulley.


    Input appreciated

    It's regular right hand. Engine rotates clockwise looking down, so shaft torque to the bolt is always tending to tighten.


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  • #4237
    kerdiff
    Registered Users Posts: 156 ✭✭kerdiff


    Hi all, I'm looking for instruction to level the deck on my rideon lawnmower, if anyone can tell me how to do this it would be much appreciated, here is a side view of the deck, just wondering which nuts should I be loosening or tightening to make it level. Thanks in advance.


  • #4238
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    kerdiff wrote: »
    Hi all, I'm looking for instruction to level the deck on my rideon lawnmower, if anyone can tell me how to do this it would be much appreciated, here is a side view of the deck, just wondering which nuts should I be loosening or tightening to make it level. Thanks in advance.
    DO you know make & model?
    Looks just like my Castelgraden, but they are normally red, not yellow. I have the workshop manual that includes all instructions for mine - https://www.motoruf.de/mo/ersatzteillisten/pdf.php?file=GlobalGarden/Kundendiensthandbuch/102-122/Wsm102_EN_2006.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0O0ffTJ6woCCYQPhttOmg7


  • #4239
    bamayang
    Registered Users Posts: 700 ✭✭✭bamayang


    kerdiff wrote: »
    Hi all, I'm looking for instruction to level the deck on my rideon lawnmower, if anyone can tell me how to do this it would be much appreciated, here is a side view of the deck, just wondering which nuts should I be loosening or tightening to make it level. Thanks in advance.

    In the back right of your image there is a vertical bolt, rotate that (should be another one on the far side) to raise the bed up or down at the back.

    Likewise with long silver shaft on top left of your pick, loosening and rotating the nut on that will drop front of the deck down.


  • #4240
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,107 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    bamayang wrote: »
    In the back right of your image there is a vertical bolt, rotate that (should be another one on the far side) to raise the bed up or down at the back.

    Likewise with long silver shaft on top left of your pick, loosening and rotating the nut on that will drop front of the deck down.

    As well as being level side to side I think it needs to be 5-7mm higher at the back?

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • #4241
    kerdiff
    Registered Users Posts: 156 ✭✭kerdiff


    tombrown wrote:
    DO you know make & model? Looks just like my Castelgraden, but they are normally red, not yellow. I have the workshop manual that includes all instructions for mine -

    tombrown wrote:
    DO you know make & model? Looks just like my Castelgraden, but they are normally red, not yellow. I have the workshop manual that includes all instructions for mine -

    tombrown wrote:
    DO you know make & model? Looks just like my Castelgraden, but they are normally red, not yellow. I have the workshop manual that includes all instructions for mine -


    I have a 2005 Stiga Estate.


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  • #4242
    PCeeeee
    Registered Users Posts: 1,489 ✭✭✭PCeeeee


    Has anyone seen Lidl lawnmower in shops? I tried two yesterday and no sign.


  • #4243
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    kerdiff wrote: »
    I have a 2005 Stiga Estate.
    I am pretty sure that is the same mower as mine just under a different brand name (Stiga own Castelgarden), so the manual I posted should be good


  • #4244
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    deezell wrote: »
    It's regular right hand. Engine rotates clockwise looking down, so shaft torque to the bolt is always tending to tighten.
    This mower is an unending saga (but I'm quiet enjoying it all the same).


    I managed to remove the pulley & fit the drive belt; I removed the bolt using an impact wrench, but put it back on with just a regular socket wrench.


    Anyway I successfully mowed the whole lawn yesterday, then, this morning, I started the engine & the pulley fell off :) I cant find the bolt, so assume it must have fallen out while I was mowing, and maybe the spin of the pulley kept it in place until I stopped it last night.


    SO I need to replace the bolt - no big problem. But I am curious as to how it can have come off. As you said the spin of the pulley should serve to tighten rater than loose in. Is it just something as simple as it not being tight enough or does this point to damaged thread in the receiving socket (god forbid)


  • #4245
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,107 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    tombrown wrote: »
    This mower is an unending saga (but I'm quiet enjoying it all the same).


    I managed to remove the pulley & fit the drive belt; I removed the bolt using an impact wrench, but put it back on with just a regular socket wrench.


    Anyway I successfully mowed the whole lawn yesterday, then, this morning, I started the engine & the pulley fell off :) I cant find the bolt, so assume it must have fallen out while I was mowing, and maybe the spin of the pulley kept it in place until I stopped it last night.


    SO I need to replace the bolt - no big problem. But I am curious as to how it can have come off. As you said the spin of the pulley should serve to tighten rater than loose in. Is it just something as simple as it not being tight enough or does this point to damaged thread in the receiving socket (god forbid)

    Something similar, that was much easier to see what happened.

    I'd just changed the clutch springs on a chainsaw. Probably not tightened the nut up to much. Wanted to test the clutch so didn't put the chain or cover back on. Went out side of the workshop and fired it up. Revved up a couple of times then switched off.

    The momentum of the nut obviously kept it turning as it came off when when the engine stopped, the clutch drum dropped off and I can see it now shooting off up the drive.

    I've had similar with stimmer heads.

    Never like to over tighten stuff I'm going to remove again.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • #4246
    tombrown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 472 ✭✭tombrown


    I just found the bolt !!! I remember stopping at one point yesterday to move a bench and the engine cut out, as usual, when I got off the seat. I thought the blades spun a bit longer than usual, but when everything was fine when I started back up I thought no more of it. Went to the that spot on the lawn just now - and there was the bolt, so maybe similar to your situation - I just didn't tighten it properly.

    Thins is, I was over an hour cutting grass after I shed the bolt, some of it quite long & heavy, so its a wonder the pulley stayed in place all that time. I guess I better check I haven't damaged the belt again.


  • #4247
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,107 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Probably one location where a bit of Threadlock would really do some good. Don't worry about using it as it is still quite easy to remove the nut or bolt afterwards but it does normally make them stay put.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • #4248
    BullBauld
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 842 ✭✭✭BullBauld


    My sister was using ride on yesterday and hit a rock. Now the deck is sitting completely on the ground and the height setting lever is loose lime it's not attached to the deck.
    I can't where to reattach. Or is this a bigger problem?

    Thanks


  • #4249
    deezell
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


      BullBauld wrote: »
      My sister was using ride on yesterday and hit a rock. Now the deck is sitting completely on the ground and the height setting lever is loose lime it's not attached to the deck.
      I can't where to reattach. Or is this a bigger problem?

      Thanks

      Depends on the mower make and model, but it often is two bowden cables fitted vertically at the back of the deck either side i'm guessing the rock lifted the deck up and over the hanging spigots on the end of the cables, which then popped out of their retention slots, leaving the deck unsuspended.


    1. #4250
      deezell
      Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,901 ✭✭✭deezell


      Dohvolle wrote: »
      Small issue last night. Have Castelgarden XDC150HD, after cutting lawn using collector box, decided to fit mulching plug.
      However when testing after fitting blade won't engage and engine cuts out instead.
      Throttle was at normal operating speed.
      Handbrake was not on. (blade won't engage with handbrake on).
      Only have it since April, Used Mulching plug just once before, no issues.

      There should be some part of the mulch plug handle or assembly that engages the grass bag interlock button switch, otherwise the mower will act like the grass bag is off and cut the engine when you try engaging the blade. That or you have to replace the bag after you've inserted the plug to achieve the same effect.


    2. #4251
      scouser123
      Registered Users Posts: 21 ✭scouser123


      Hi, Hopefully one of you guys can help me with this.

      I have a castlegarden TC102 (about 25 years old but like a friend to me) and the drive chain came off the back wheel. When I checked one of the Pinions was really badly worn. I managed to get the stuck chain from the back flywheel and get a new pinion and replaced it. I have linked two pics of the old pinion and the newly installed one. Thought I had it sorted but it came off the drive wheel again today during a mulch which is what I use it for now.

      The routing of the chain via the tensionor looks wrong but I believe that was the way it was before I replaced the pinion.
      The chain seems to go in both directions between the tensioner pinions.
      In one of the pics the chain is loose on the tension spring as its off the back drive wheel.

      The chain seemed tight enough when I put it back on but.......
      Is the routing correct?

      https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10219789362828158&set=pcb.10219789365588227
      https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10219789362868159&set=pcb.10219789365588227

      Many thanks for any help.

      Cheers,


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