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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

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Comments



  • recyclebin wrote: »
    I never knew that but I guess it makes sense. It wouldnt be to difficult to modify a mower if you needed extra height.

    It was easy to do on the Cobra mower. The curved toothed rack that holds the height lever was bolted to the deck. I just removed it, drilled two new holes, and replaced it, about two notches higher. Adding an extra few cm to top height.




  • deezell wrote: »
    It was easy to do on the Cobra mower. The curved toothed rack that holds the height lever was bolted to the deck. I just removed it, drilled two new holes, and replaced it, about two notches higher. Adding an extra few cm to top height.

    I have the deck on my current lawnmower modded too, I took your advice, but I need to upgrade to a more powerful machine.

    75mm should be ok now as I've done alot of work on my lawn over the last year, removing thatch, moss, fertilising and cutting it more regularly so its lower than it was.




  • Dose any one know can you get battery powered ride on lawnmowers in Ireland, I would get a robot mower but I cant find one that will pick up dog shxt before the cut




  • Zardoz wrote: »
    Thanks for the review, it sounds like a good machine.

    I had a look at the Web Pro in Coop stores it looks fairly solid.
    Only issue I would be worried about is the 75mm highest cut setting, it might be a bit low for me.

    I have ~1000 square metres of lawn.
    I was also considering this Toro, its 550 euro locally, goes to 95mm height.
    https://www.jdslawnmowers.ie/product/toro-21750-mulching-lawnmower/

    i have the toro, have a half acre of grass, find it a great mower well able to mulch or collect, starts first pull, have it nearly two years, i believe its a 2017 model




  • Has anyone gone the whole hog and bought a Swardman Reel mower?

    https://www.swardman.com/int/

    Seems to be the only motorised reel mower available outside of gold club equipment. My fear is that trying to get parts would be a nightmare. At €2k it’s certainly in the higher end of the price scale.

    For those that may have one, assume you have to ensure that your lawn is in a good flat state or it just won’t work?


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  • I bought the Greenworks 80v Pro 3 weeks ago in Co-Op Superstores, great battery mover, so quiet and the mulcher factor is why i bought it. I had a Honda petrol mover for years, serviced me well but the 80v is big step in the right direction for me. No more getting petrol and the smell! Can't believe how quiet is it. If anyone is thinking of purchasing a battery mover definitely look at the Greenworks 80v Pro.

    D




  • ^^^^^

    For some weird reason your post reminded me of the old joke

    Why are husbands like lawn mowers?

    They're hard to get started, emit foul odors, and don't work half time.

    Wake me up when it's all over.





  • Just reading through here about deck material. What are the opinions on the Marina stainless decks? Worth the extra money or just extra weight for no gain?




  • @OConnorDavid - whats the battery life like? is it robust? do you get a spare battery?




  • fryup wrote: »
    @OConnorDavid - whats the battery life like? is it robust? do you get a spare battery?

    Battery life is very good, it will cut the whole lawn on 1 charge whereas before with the 40v I'd have to use 2 batteries (4Ah and 2Ah) to get the job done.
    It's metal body and has a good weight to it.
    4Ah was included with it.


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  • Hi all,


    My ears aren't the greatest with tenitis so find my petrol lawnmower hard these days. I'm hoping to get a manual lawnmower to do intermittent cuts and was wondering if anyone has a recommendation for sub €150?


    Appreciate it.




  • the goon wrote: »
    Hi all,


    My ears aren't the greatest with tenitis so find my petrol lawnmower hard these days. I'm hoping to get a manual lawnmower to do intermittent cuts and was wondering if anyone has a recommendation for sub €150?


    Appreciate it.

    Or just get these?

    PEL510A_i__461d.jpg

    https://www.safetydirect.ie/pel510a.html




  • deezell wrote: »

    Yup, 2 things to add.

    1. Go for the more expensive ones (pelator 3), it's a big step up for only a 10euro difference.

    2. Wear plugs as well. It's not one or the other, they work in different frequency ranges (muffs do high, plugs do low) so you won't get protection without both.

    That aside, you could go for an electric. They're a good deal quieter.
    They're also a lot lighter, easier to move around and generally less hassle. Generally better option unless you've got a large lawn IMO.




  • Hi

    I have a castelgarden 102 Hydro ride on mower from 2005. At the start of last summer I replaced the drive belt, and the mower was fine all year. This year it has been fine up until the last 2 weeks, but now the drive belt keeps jumping off the pulley on the back axel when I start the engine.

    I have checked the belt and it is in good condition & properly fitted. There is an option to adjust the tension, and I have looked at that - there is spring that is meant to be 109-111 mm in length, it is actually a bit tighter than that (~115mm), so over tensioned, but has been like that since I installed the belt.

    Could that be a problem? I would have thought under-tensioned would cause what I have, not over-tensioned.

    Any other ideas?




  • Actually, I did find some damage to the belt after all - there is a split on the backside of the belt, so it is getting caught on one of the guards around a pulley wheel. I'll have to order & fit a new one then, but it does give rise to a couple of questions:

    1. Is it feasible/advisable to temporarily repair the belt with tape and turn it round, so the split faces the opposite direction to the belt rotation, just so I can mow the grass while waiting for the new belt?

    2. Any tips on what to check to see if I can find anything on the mower itself that caused the damage?

    thanks




  • Hi, long time follower here. Have a Castlegarden 102 ride on with B&S engine, it was passed down from father and is going since 2001. It is getting to be on last legs and am planning to source a new one towards end of this season. Or maybe should think about moving sooner the way prices seem to be jumping on everything.

    Could anyone reccomend something similar? Have about 2,000sqm of lawn area. Dont like mulching, prefer to collect the grass. Have a good lot of trees in the garden, but dont mind going back after with a strimmer to tidy those.
    What would be my best bet to try and get similar longevity? I'd rather pay a little more now and avoid regular breakdowns.
    Cheers




  • tombrown wrote: »
    Actually, I did find some damage to the belt after all - there is a split on the backside of the belt, so it is getting caught on one of the guards around a pulley wheel. I'll have to order & fit a new one then, but it does give rise to a couple of questions:

    1. Is it feasible/advisable to temporarily repair the belt with tape and turn it round, so the split faces the opposite direction to the belt rotation, just so I can mow the grass while waiting for the new belt?

    2. Any tips on what to check to see if I can find anything on the mower itself that caused the damage?

    thanks
    Added photo of belt - based on the direction of the split, I am thinking if I reverse the belt so it is pointing the opposite direction it wont catch, and I can at least cut the grass pending the new belt




  • Maybe if its not too difficult to get at and change then try it the other way around but be prepared for sods law to kick in and have it snap right in the middle of the lawn or the furthest point from where you store it whichever is worse

    Wake me up when it's all over.





  • Maybe if its not too difficult to get at and change then try it the other way around but be prepared for sods law to kick in and have it snap right in the middle of the lawn or the furthest point from where you store it whichever is worse

    Thanks

    Yep - that is what normally happens, the point in the garden that is furthest from both the garage & the grass cutting pile, but only once the collection basket is over 90% full.

    I can live with that, so long as I wont be risking damaging the mower by putting the belt on like that.

    Any idea what may have caused that damage? Can it be as simple as a stick or similar getting caught up?




  • tombrown wrote: »
    Thanks

    Yep - that is what normally happens, the point in the garden that is furthest from both the garage & the grass cutting pile, but only once the collection basket is over 90% full.

    I can live with that, so long as I wont be risking damaging the mower by putting the belt on like that.

    Any idea what may have caused that damage? Can it be as simple as a stick or similar getting caught up?

    If its not been replaced then just old age.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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  • If its not been replaced then just old age.

    I only put it on a year ago. The one before was worn in multiple places, this one only has that damage in one place




  • tombrown wrote: »
    I only put it on a year ago. The one before was worn in multiple places, this one only has that damage in one place

    Something stuck up in it then? Then I've found different qualities of belt some that last forever and some that hardly make the season out.

    Wake me up when it's all over.





  • tombrown wrote: »
    I only put it on a year ago. The one before was worn in multiple places, this one only has that damage in one place
    You'd be better off using the old belt if you kept it, that split belt is very far gone, and tape won't be worth a toss. Severe overtensioning can indeed cause belts to ride off a pulley, especially a tensioner or idler pulley, as the extra strain will tilt the pulley shaft on its mounting plate, causing the belt to ride hard against the pulley rims, fray the edge and then catch and jump off, usually with a big nick out of the belt. Usually spring loaded tensioners don't require adjustment, it would tend to be a little more extended with a new belt, shortening as the belt wore and bedded in. Sometimes an idler or tensioner pulley bearing will seize over the winter, the belt might slip over a back idler for a while, but it will likely damage the belt, and a stuck or sticky front V idler will easily take a chunk from a belt on startup.




  • Thanks

    I don't have the old belt - it was a mess, so I may try with this one just top try & get grass cut tomorrow before a new one gets fitted - if it snaps, nothing is lost, apart from my back pushing the mower back to the garage. I'll reduce the tension too




  • OK - sorted my temporary fix - taped up the belt to prevent fraying, and reversed it, so the split won't catch on guards anymore. Drove it around a bit to prove to myself it works. I suspect it wont last too long before it snaps, but may be able to get the grass cut tomorrow evening, to give me a bit of time to replace the belt when the new one comes.

    One problem I have is loosening the central nut on the main engine pulley (see attached diagram). I cant budge it - tried socket wrench, wheel wrench, electric screwdriver (with socket), even my drill - but as I have to try & hold the pulley wheel at the same time it proves impossible. The manual does suggest there is a special tool that will fit into the holes 4a, shown, but I cant find it to buy anywhere.

    I can work around that by dismantling the timing belt & removing some other parts, but its the long way round, and, one of these days, I'll forget to put some critical part back :)




  • tombrown wrote: »
    OK -
    .....One problem I have is loosening the central nut on the main engine pulley (see attached diagram). I cant budge it - tried socket wrench, wheel wrench, electric screwdriver (with socket), even my drill - but as I have to try & hold the pulley wheel at the same time it proves impossible. The manual does suggest there is a special tool that will fit into the holes 4a, shown, but I cant find it to buy anywhere.....
    If I recall correctly, you can slide a long reach large diameter screwdriver through one of the holes and catch it on chassis, enough to stop the engine turning, or slide a pry bar between the pulleys, into the space between the pulley hub and a bolt pushed through one on the holes, then just rotate the pulleys until the bar catches on the chassis.
    On one occasion in the past I popped the top engine circular grille cover and put a long socket bar on the top engine nut, turning until the bar was wedged against the frame. Happily the bottom nut opened first, but it might only loosen the top one. On another occasion a large vice grip on the hub between the pulleys tightened to the max so it wouldn't slip done the trick.




  • Thanks. I might still need an impact wrench, even if I can lock the wheel. Not worth buying one, as I cant see when else I would use it, not sure I know anyone who would have one to borrow ... hire maybe




  • tombrown wrote: »
    Thanks. I might still need an impact wrench, even if I can lock the wheel. Not worth buying one, as I cant see when else I would use it, not sure I know anyone who would have one to borrow ... hire maybe

    I dont think you need to take that pulley off at all. I did one last year and just removed the two bolts that come down either side of the pulley and then dropped all the idler pulleys back up under the seat and that gave enough slack to get the belt off.

    I have a feeling that pulley is designed not to come off, or it may be reverse thread.




  • The workshop manual says to take it off.

    If you don't take it off, it is impossible to take the drive belt off without first taking the timing belt off as it is on the same pulley axle, and is mounted below the drive belt. To get the timing belt off you need to loosen one of the other timing belt pulleys or is to tight to ease off.

    Then. even when you have the timing belt removed there is a spring loaded bar ("mobile guide pulley" - see 2 on diagram) that is set so close to the pulley that the drive belt sits on, it doesn't leave enough space to get a belt in, even when pushed forward as shown (note the drive belt pulley is the one at the top of the picture - the one at the bottom is the timing belt pulley).

    I could fit the damaged belt in yesterday as it is stripped in one place, but for a new belt I have to remove that bar.

    So - all possible without removing the pulley, but complicated, and lots of room to put things back wrong :)


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  • MAULBROOK wrote: »
    Dose any one know can you get battery powered ride on lawnmowers in Ireland, I would get a robot mower but I cant find one that will pick up dog shxt before the cut


    https://www.donedeal.ie/gardenequipment-for-sale/weibang-ion-battery-ride-on-lawnmower/28091583


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