Domestic Solar PV Quotes 2020

MAULBROOK · 10-11-2020 6:21pm

alesironi wrote: »

Sent PM, would appreciate if you share details.

thanks
ale

On less you double the amount of panels or get 8 by 400watt panels, forget the Iboost and battery.

Out of interest what size is the invertor

alesironi · 10-11-2020 6:27pm

MAULBROOK wrote: »

On less you double the amount of panels or get 8 by 400watt panels, forget the Iboost and battery.

Out of interest what size is the invertor

I do not know the size. Would you pls share with me (with PM if not possible publicly) details of how to get a quote like that?

thanks

tails_naf · 11-11-2020 9:03am

unkel wrote: »

No, no and don't get an iBoost either. None of that will ever pay for itself. Have a look at some of the other quotes in this thread that are much better than the one you got.

I don't see how the iboost won't pay for itself? It basically ensures 100% self use. I had my system installed for a week before the iboost (eddi in my case) was installed and loads of power went back to thw grid, and that was in October, so I'd much rather it heating my hot water tank. If there were feed in tarrifs that are reasonable then yes the battery and diverter are not required.

graememk · 11-11-2020 9:36am

tails_naf wrote: »

I don't see how the iboost won't pay for itself? It basically ensures 100% self use. I had my system installed for a week before the iboost (eddi in my case) was installed and loads of power went back to thw grid, and that was in October, so I'd much rather it heating my hot water tank. If there were feed in tarrifs that are reasonable then yes the battery and diverter are not required.

To heat water using oil or gas, costs about 5c/kwh,

And say if the eddi costs 500 euro, you will need to put in 10,000kwh to break even.

If you have a different reason eg your house is all electric, and use an immersion that will change the balance.

Or if your getting it for a non cost reason (ie not having to light a fire in the summer just to heat water)

Point is, don't get it if the goal is to save money, the payback isn't there.

But if there is a different reason, well it's up to you to judge if it's worth it.

slave1 · 11-11-2020 10:00am

I just bought myself an Eddi, I think I got a good PV install cost so it wasn’t a totally economical decision, 4 of us in the house and hot water always in demand so it was a comfort purchase.
I don’t have gas so it is 4 hours night rate to heat the tank, I also was to be self consuming so the Eddi will take excess from 150w to 1200w, from 1200w the Zappi will take excess to the EVs....

slave1 · 11-11-2020 10:01am

In other news I got my post PV install BER result, B1, not bad for a late 1960s semi

AnswerIs42 · 11-11-2020 10:07am

slave1 wrote: »

In other news I got my post PV install BER result, B1, not bad for a late 1960s semi

Did the BER result come as part of the package from the company that installed your solar system so you could get the grant?

If not, what did it cost you to get it done?

unkel · 11-11-2020 10:49am

slave1 wrote: »

I just bought myself an Eddi, I think I got a good PV install cost so it wasn’t a totally economical decision, 4 of us in the house and hot water always in demand so it was a comfort purchase.
I don’t have gas so it is 4 hours night rate to heat the tank

It is well known on here that I try to tell people not to get an immersion diverter for their 2kwp system if they already have efficient gas / oil heating as it will never pay for itself, so it won't save them any money. It's cheaper to export your excess electricity back to the grid for free

You are a good example of where this rule applies a lot less because of combination of:

1. your water heating costs are 8c/kWh, not just 5c/kWh from efficient fossil fuels
2. your system is big, can't remember now, 4,5,6 kwp or something substantial
3. you've saved money with a super price install, now you want the Eddi as a hobby, for self sufficiency reasons, etc. would you even attempt a DIY install on it?
4. household with large hot water needs

Obviously the money saving becomes a lot less if / when we get a FIT, but above still applies

MAULBROOK · 11-11-2020 10:51am

slave1 wrote: »

In other news I got my post PV install BER result, B1, not bad for a late 1960s semi

You can now add 5%-10% to your house price if you sell.

I see a few banks are offering good mortgage rates for houses with a BER of B2 and higher. I will be switching next year, happy days

slave1 · 11-11-2020 12:51pm

AnswerIs42 wrote: »

Did the BER result come as part of the package from the company that installed your solar system so you could get the grant?

If not, what did it cost you to get it done?

Separate guy and it cost €240, ethically I don't believe in a link between installer and BER assessor, they should be independent of each other

AnswerIs42 · 11-11-2020 12:54pm

slave1 wrote: »

Separate guy and it cost €240, ethically I don't believe in a link between installer and BER assessor, they should be independent of each other

Thanks for that info. Another cost to factor in.

slave1 · 11-11-2020 12:55pm

unkel wrote: »

It is well known on here that I try to tell people not to get an immersion diverter for their 2kwp system if they already have efficient gas / oil heating as it will never pay for itself, so it won't save them any money. It's cheaper to export your excess electricity back to the grid for free

You are a good example of where this rule applies a lot less because of combination of:

1. your water heating costs are 8c/kWh, not just 5c/kWh from efficient fossil fuels
2. your system is big, can't remember now, 4,5,6 kwp or something substantial
3. you've saved money with a super price install, now you want the Eddi as a hobby, for self sufficiency reasons, etc. would you even attempt a DIY install on it?
4. household with large hot water needs

Obviously the money saving becomes a lot less if / when we get a FIT, but above still applies

3. you've saved money with a super price install, now you want the Eddi as a hobby, for self sufficiency reasons, etc. would you even attempt a DIY install on it?
4. household with large hot water needs

This, yes I will self install, there's nothing to it, take the feed currently going into the timer and install a switch (as I'd like complete control and I have a few lying around), then feed from switch to Eddi and take two feeds off the Eddi for top and bottom elements via independent 20a switch double poles.
Some may say I could avoid all those switches but it's in their schematic and I've no problem with extra wiring and effort

unkel · 11-11-2020 1:57pm

AnswerIs42 wrote: »

Thanks for that info. Another cost to factor in.

Indeed. Could add a year to the pay back period of the system. You won't of course need this for a DIY install. With a SEAI grant install my final negotiation would be to get them to throw it in. Agree that you won't get a reliable outcome, but who cares, it is only to please the grant criteria and BER is only an adding up exercise anwyay. It says nothing about how much energy your house consumes. My poorly '99 built house was a B rating before I got my PV or my home battery. Probably would get an A rating now if I sealed up my fireplace, which is ridiculous for a draughty house with crap insulation like mine.

garo · 11-11-2020 3:21pm

BER are a bit of a joke. I got the guy who did my BER to send me the xml file that contained all the information he had gathered to make the rating. It is so easy to game it and there are so many assumptions made that two assesors can come up with wildly different ratings.

slave1 · 11-11-2020 3:33pm

Well the guy who's doing my BER sought a lot of information from me, receipts for windows, insulation work etc to prove the work done etc. He also took a lot of photos to use in the uploads to BER portal so I hope my BER is a non-gamed assessment

garo · 11-11-2020 3:52pm

Well then. That late 60s has had a lot of work done so. THat's a different matter if you have proof of insulation U-values etc. On a standard build with no work done it can be a finger in the air thing to get U-values for walls etc. They don't do a airflow test so you don't know how much heat you lose via air leaks. And they sure don't measure U values for windows and walls.

Bobeagleburger · 11-11-2020 4:08pm

slave1 wrote: »

In other news I got my post PV install BER result, B1, not bad for a late 1960s semi

What was it pre PV install?

Curious how many levels a PV install improves a BER rating.

idc · 11-11-2020 4:17pm

If they don't know uValues for your walls/doors/windows etc then they are supposed to use defaults of the time. ie they have a document with value used when your house was build!

With my 4.65 kWp, 5 kW inverter and 5.7kWh battery moved my BER rating from a B2 to a B1 ! (had a BER done by same guy only 6-7 months previously!)

MAULBROOK · 11-11-2020 4:37pm

We went from a C3 to a B2 after PV instal and replacing all lights with LED, personally i don't give a dam how or where that number was plucked from. For once I got a result.

garo · 11-11-2020 4:40pm

I had the same guy do the BER when we bought the house and 2 years later with a 4.8kWh PV install and fully zoned HW/CH system installed in the interim. Went from D2(277) to C2(199). We have a gas fireplace that is blocked up - but not permanently so - so that adds about 55kWh/m2 to our estimated consumption while in reality consumption is near zero. Our real consumption before PV was 155 kWh/m2 so a high C1 and after PV 118 kWh/m2 so in line with a B3. 80s vintage detached.

The rating improvement from PV depends on the area of your house and size of your panels. The bigger the array and the smaller the floor area, the more the improvement.

worlds goodest teecher · 11-11-2020 4:44pm

slave1 wrote: »

Well the guy who's doing my BER sought a lot of information from me, receipts for windows, insulation work etc to prove the work done etc. He also took a lot of photos to use in the uploads to BER portal so I hope my BER is a non-gamed assessment

The BER assessor is required to provide evidence in their upload to the SEAI National Administration System. An inspection can be carried out if something seems off or the survey is randomly selected. BER assessor receives penalty points if incorrect information uploaded.

MAULBROOK · 11-11-2020 4:45pm

garo wrote: »

I had the same guy do the BER when we bought the house and 2 years later with a 4.8kWh PV install and fully zoned HW/CH system installed in the interim. Went from D2(277) to C2(199). We have a gas fireplace that is blocked up - but not permanently so - so that adds about 55kWh/m2 to our estimated consumption while in reality consumption is near zero. Our real consumption before PV was 155 kWh/m2 so a high C1 and after PV 118 kWh/m2 so in line with a B3. 80s vintage detached.

The rating improvement from PV depends on the area of your house and size of your panels. The bigger the array and the smaller the floor area, the more the improvement.

That explains it a bit. Bungalow north wexford with then 16 panels now 20.

DrPhilG · 11-11-2020 4:47pm

tails_naf wrote: »

I don't see how the iboost won't pay for itself? It basically ensures 100% self use.

How so?

idc · 11-11-2020 4:48pm

The first time the BER guy was here he told me to get rid of as many draughts like chimney, attic hatches etc. which i did. and sent a photo of a chimney sheep (similar idea to chimney balloon). He was happy with that.
Then when he came 5-6 months later for PV he looks at chimney (which now has a cap on top as well) and says that makes no difference!!! sure anyone could remove that so it can't be counted!
I didn't explain anyone could replace every light bulb with the least energy efficient version they could find, or take the PV panels off the roof as well!

MAULBROOK · 11-11-2020 5:02pm

idc wrote: »

The first time the BER guy was here he told me to get rid of as many draughts like chimney, attic hatches etc. which i did. and sent a photo of a chimney sheep (similar idea to chimney balloon). He was happy with that.
Then when he came 5-6 months later for PV he looks at chimney (which now has a cap on top as well) and says that makes no difference!!! sure anyone could remove that so it can't be counted!
I didn't explain anyone could replace every light bulb with the least energy efficient version they could find, or take the PV panels off the roof as well!

Sounds like a total Cee Uew Next Tuesday

SouthWesterly · 11-11-2020 5:18pm

idc wrote: »

The first time the BER guy was here he told me to get rid of as many draughts like chimney, attic hatches etc. which i did. and sent a photo of a chimney sheep (similar idea to chimney balloon). He was happy with that.
Then when he came 5-6 months later for PV he looks at chimney (which now has a cap on top as well) and says that makes no difference!!! sure anyone could remove that so it can't be counted!
I didn't explain anyone could replace every light bulb with the least energy efficient version they could find, or take the PV panels off the roof as well!

Has that with a house I sold. Had a chimney baloon and it was discounted.

A question... I've a d2 (2014).and looking at upgrading my oil burner and getting pv. Will getting the ber done after the panels are in also include the burner for the purposes of getting the pv grant.. Don't know if that makes sense.

worlds goodest teecher · 11-11-2020 5:29pm

SouthWesterly wrote: »

Has that with a house I sold. Had a chimney baloon and it was discounted.

A question... I've a d2 (2014).and looking at upgrading my oil burner and getting pv. Will getting the ber done after the panels are in also include the burner for the purposes of getting the pv grant.. Don't know if that makes sense.

you have to get a min C rating after installing PV, doesn't say C1, C2 or C3. A more efficient oil boiler will bring up as well.

I went from E1 to C1 recently by insulating cavity and attic, draft stripping, changing boiler, etc although I feel it should have been B3. Installing 2kW PV as soon as restrictions ease so will have to get BER done again.

idc · 11-11-2020 5:30pm

MAULBROOK wrote: »

Sounds like a total Cee Uew Next Tuesday

Haha no he was actually decent apart from that scenario. When he was here first time he pointed out things i could do simply and he'd hold off on the report. So i did a lot of extra bits and pieces that he suggested and sent that on. Worst was getting windows/door suppliers to give me details so i didn't go with default uValues for when house built.

Back to Solar PV, it did kinda demonstrate that solar on its own may not be enough to get to the BER level you need for grant. for instance if your house was in E or even D2 would solar on its own bring you to a C ?

SouthWesterly wrote: »

A question... I've a d2 (2014).and looking at upgrading my oil burner and getting pv. Will getting the ber done after the panels are in also include the burner for the purposes of getting the pv grant.. Don't know if that makes sense.

Doing both is a good idea as both will improve BER. Any idea how the BER will change with new burner? if it gets you close to the C even if the burner just put you above the threshold in D1 (lets say 230) then the panels will push you into C. so all good.

SouthWesterly · 11-11-2020 6:34pm

worlds goodest teecher wrote: »

you have to get a min C rating after installing PV, doesn't say C1, C2 or C3. A more efficient oil boiler will bring up as well.

I went from E1 to C1 recently by insulating cavity and attic, draft stripping, changing boiler, etc although I feel it should have been B3. Installing 2kW PV as soon as restrictions ease so will have to get BER done again.

There was wall insulation and a stove done after the ber by the previous owner. I reckoned a 2.2 kW pv on a 161msq house would bring me to c. Could be wrong.

garo · 11-11-2020 7:03pm

So take your array size and multiple by 1.47. So my 4.8kW array goes to 7000kWh. Now divide this by floor area and that gives you the improvement in BER. So if you had a 100 sq. m. house your BER would improve by 70. If it was a 200 Sq. m house it would improve by 35. That will tell you what your new rating would be with just the BER into account. You could always ask for a pre-install inspection to make sure you would hit the C3 with panels included. I had to give the exact panel model number. And Eddi/battery has no impact on BER.

2200*1.47/161 = ~20 kWh/m2 so definitely not enough to get you from D2 to C3 by itself.

Domestic Solar PV Quotes 2020

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