STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Muahahaha · 15-10-2018 10:12pm

Just in the market for a upgrading an open fire. Im wondering is it possible to install one of the inset/cassette style stoves in a standard chimney breast? Im just asking are these tyes of retrofit installations tricky and they might encounter problems and what to be aware of before proceeding.

seamus · 16-10-2018 9:36am

Standard chimney breast should be no issue. Must suppliers will do an all-in service that includes lining the chimney. Main thing is tidying up the opening - if it's relatively wide or the plasterwork is damaged, you should get the opening patching/cleaned up to the appropriate size before the stove is installed.

Muahahaha · 16-10-2018 1:53pm

The breast is 1800mm wide and Im hoping to install a stove of 1100mm width. Was reading about flue installations and was wondering if there is a cowl on the market that can be remotely controlled to regulate air venting? Reason I ask is the stove Im interested in is flush to the wall and I cant see any external vents on it and am wondering how would airflow be regulated?
https://www.modernstoves.co.uk/inset-stoves/panadero-101s-inset-multi-fuel-wood-burning-stove.html#

marklazarcovic · 17-10-2018 6:53pm

Why is it so hard to get a plumber to be straight up?

Rang 3 plumbers in Galway about removing a range and installing a stove,ready to go ,stove here etc.. none of them stuck to their word of I'll call tomorrow to quote .. none answer txts or phone since..
<MOD SNIP> riddiculas..must be coining it in.. but it's not very professional to just back out without a reason or explanation.

MOD NOTE: I understand your frustration, but keep the profanities out of your posts.

Shefwedfan · 18-10-2018 8:21pm

marklazarcovic wrote: »

Why is it so hard to get a plumber to be straight up?

Rang 3 plumbers in Galway about removing a range and installing a stove,ready to go ,stove here etc.. none of them stuck to their word of I'll call tomorrow to quote .. none answer txts or phone since..
<MOD SNIP> riddiculas..must be coining it in.. but it's not very professional to just back out without a reason or explanation.

MOD NOTE: I understand your frustration, but keep the profanities out of your posts.

This is the problem with Ireland

Good times now so expect plumbers/electrician/trademens all to forget who their customers are and looking after them

Once the bad times hit again expect to hear them crying about no customers been loyal and complain that everyone prices around....Standard practise in Ireland :P unfortuneatly

AdamB · 21-10-2018 1:37pm

I'm currently doing up my sitting room and plan on getting an insert non-boiler stove fitted where the open fire is now. I have narrowed it down to two stoves, a Waterford Stanley Solis 80cm SS insert and a Stovax Studio 2 both of which have warm air channels which will duct warm air to two rooms upstairs. As they are both new to the market there is little or nothing in the way of reviews on either, which is a little unnerving for such a large spend. I'm wondering is there a general preference between the two brands? I prefer the look of the Stovax but the cost of the Stanley is very appealing!
I've been told that there is a support bar in the chimney breast that may need to be raised, is there anyway to find out where this support bar is and if it requires moving?
Also as the floor will be tiled is a hearth still necessary?
Any advice greatly appreciated..

Shefwedfan · 29-10-2018 1:57pm

Just wondering, have a hamco 30b. It has worked perfect but in last few months bits starting to go. Glass broke in front, grate has bit out of it, the bit that runs along the front to stop stuff coming out has broke,

Now today as I look into it, at the top of the stove was a circle part which came down into the stove, it was below the flue....it looks to be broken so the flames can go into the flue. No idea how to explain.

I bought the house and from the look of it the previous owner was burning plastics and all sorts of sh*t in it. I have another stove and the same problem. I am just wondering should I fix all the part or look to replace the stove?

geo88 · 29-10-2018 11:53pm

Hi everyone,

After reading a couple of threads, playing with a number of heating calculators as well as some browsing on WhatStove I've decided to ask for help here.

I have an open fireplace which I'd like to replace with a stove, but have little idea of what options would be cost effective as well as how much more expensive some of the others would be.

I'm looking at an open area of about 30 sqm with a regular height of 2.5m. According to online calculators, given low to average insulation (but hopefully to be improved in the future), I should be looking at 5-6 kW stoves.

When it comes to style, I really like the aspect of the Hunter Parkray Aspect stoves (very small bezels, e.g. for the Aspect 5), though a Jetmaster 18i also wouldn't look too bad to me.

Currently the open fireplace is a very big source of draught when it's windy outside.
My main source of heating is oil heating (though will change to gas at some point in the future).
Also, I really like the look/effect of wood burning (not into burning coal/peat).
Location: Dublin.

What I'm wondering about:

What size is my opening considered to be? Do I take those 2'' metal edges into account or not? E.g.: 20'' x 24'' or 16'' x 22'' ?
Previously, many years ago, a back boiler used to be connected, however, that seems to have been disconnected for a long time now. Regular heating pipes would still run at the very left side of the chimney buildout and accessible through a small trapdoor on the left wall. Would this limit my options in any way?
Given the dimensions, am I limited to inset/insert stoves or would standalones also be an option?
What type of stove would be the most cost effective option to install and what can I expect price wise?
How much extra would it be if I wanted some sort of standalone, given that it would need some clearance on the sides and on top? What if I'd also want some space to store logs at the bottom?

Cheers!

Ian OB · 30-10-2018 12:32am

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Just wondering, have a hamco 30b. It has worked perfect but in last few months bits starting to go. Glass broke in front, grate has bit out of it, the bit that runs along the front to stop stuff coming out has broke,

Now today as I look into it, at the top of the stove was a circle part which came down into the stove, it was below the flue....it looks to be broken so the flames can go into the flue. No idea how to explain.

I bought the house and from the look of it the previous owner was burning plastics and all sorts of sh*t in it. I have another stove and the same problem. I am just wondering should I fix all the part or look to replace the stove?

Have one of these stoves too. They're not recommended for coal which is probably what did for the parts you describe. Given that Hamco are only over the way in Tullamore it'd br no harm to give them a ring to price the parts first.

redsky1 · 31-10-2018 12:48pm

Replace the stove and be careful what you burn in it.

The Bishop Basher · 31-10-2018 2:44pm

Very glad i've only found this thread now..

I've been running a firewarm 8kw on coal for 10 years now..

The only thing i've ever had to replace is the glass which developed stress cracks.

Everything else inside looks as it did the day we installed it..

Shefwedfan · 01-11-2018 12:53pm

Ian OB wrote: »

Have one of these stoves too. They're not recommended for coal which is probably what did for the parts you describe. Given that Hamco are only over the way in Tullamore it'd br no harm to give them a ring to price the parts first.

I find I am talking to them regularly at the moment

Replacement parts add up to €130 this time. That's after 60 last year.

The problem is installation.

I wasn't aware they are not recommended for coal, they say multi fuel on any of the websites I see

BlueSunshine7 · 03-11-2018 3:16pm

Hi everyone,

We had a Kingstar Inset Stove with a stainless steal flexible flue installed 5 years ago. A strange chemically smell had been coming from it which we thought was installation smell but it hasn’t burned off and in fact seems to be getting worse every year. We lit it yesterday for the first time this winter and it’s the worst it’s ever been. Same today. The smell seems to worsen the hotter the fire is burning. It is a toxic-like smell that catches you in the throat and causes a flu-like pressure/headache feeling in the nasal, eye and crown areas. I would describe it as a burnt nails or burnt hair smell, my family can’t quite put words on what it is but know how it makes them feel; “headachey”, “burns nostrils and lungs”. Would anyone have any idea what this might be?

Many thanks!!

Wearb · 03-11-2018 3:21pm

BlueSunshine7 wrote: »

Hi everyone,

We had a Kingstar Inset Stove with a stainless steal flexible flue installed 5 years ago. A strange chemically smell had been coming from it which we thought was installation smell but it hasn’t burned off and in fact seems to be getting worse every year. We lit it yesterday for the first time this winter and it’s the worst it’s ever been. Same today. The smell seems to worsen the hotter the fire is burning. It is a toxic-like smell that catches you in the throat and causes a flu-like pressure/headache feeling in the nasal, eye and crown areas. I would describe it as a burnt nails or burnt hair smell, my family can’t quite put words on what it is but know how it makes them feel; “headachey”, “burns nostrils and lungs”. Would anyone have any idea what this might be?

Many thanks!!

Don’t know what the problem is, but make sure you have a WORKING carbon monoxide alarm.
Headaches can be one of the symptoms of low oxygen which in turn can produce CO.
This is mostly caused by poor combustion ventilation.

Forge83 · 03-11-2018 3:54pm

BlueSunshine7 wrote: »

Hi everyone,

We had a Kingstar Inset Stove with a stainless steal flexible flue installed 5 years ago. A strange chemically smell had been coming from it which we thought was installation smell but it hasn’t burned off and in fact seems to be getting worse every year. We lit it yesterday for the first time this winter and it’s the worst it’s ever been. Same today. The smell seems to worsen the hotter the fire is burning. It is a toxic-like smell that catches you in the throat and causes a flu-like pressure/headache feeling in the nasal, eye and crown areas. I would describe it as a burnt nails or burnt hair smell, my family can’t quite put words on what it is but know how it makes them feel; “headachey”, “burns nostrils and lungs”. Would anyone have any idea what this might be?

Many thanks!!

Plus one for the carbon monoxide alarms!

Sounds like smouldering rock wool. A lot of installers still using this when they shouldn’t be.
Another possibility is if the chimney wasn’t cleaned before installation, it could be the old creosote in the pots.

JohnBoy · 27-11-2018 1:24pm

Not sure if I should post here or start my own thread..... mods please split out if more appropriate.

We have done some rennovation recently and fitted a new boiler stove, a stratford ecoboiler 12. https://www.aradastoves.com/stoves/ecoboiler-12-cassette

I'm not happy with the performance and looking for some advice.

We've had a stove for years and I've been burning wood all my life so I'm reasonably happy with the wood I'm burning, it's ash that was cut and split in the spring and stored in IBC cages in a drafty shed since in the hottest summer in many years. I have a moisture meter on order to be sure but when burnt in the fireplace this stuff is like coal with no hissing or spitting.

The stove has been lit half a dozen nights now and now that the nighs have gotten cold it's really noticeable that it's not putting out that much heat. it's rapidly developing a coating of tar, it is also smoking when the door is opened.

The flue was lined with twin wall flexi liner and vermiculite poured around it, the steel pipe from the stove to the liner was wrapped with ceramic wool as was the top and sides of the stove. it is an externally air fed stove and my gut feeling is that it's not getting enough air, it just doesnt seem to be possible to get a roaring fire in it, would that cause tar as much as damp timber?

where do I start to diagnose?

Mickeroo · 27-11-2018 2:00pm

What kind of reading are you getting on the moisture meter?

How often do you need to clean the glass to keep it clear? Is the wood smouldering or is it burning with a good flame?

We have the inset non cassette version of that stove and only burn kiln dried wood. Even going full blast there's still a layer of tar/creosote on the inside of the firebox, I'm not sure if that aspect is fully avoidable and I was wondering myself how normal it is to have a coating inside the firebox..

The living room is never so warm we need to open the door or anything with it even when using Ecobrite coal at full blast but it does heat it well enough to be comfortable but I expected more too tbh. I think it's common enough for boiler insets to be like that though.

THis probably won't solve your problems but I found it helpful for how to use the air controls depending on the fuel: https://www.aradastoves.com/pdf/manuals/bk560-rev08.pdf

JohnBoy · 27-11-2018 6:07pm

I have only just ordered the moisture meter so it wont arrive for a week, but I'm not convinced moisture is my problem, I more suspect airflow.

This is my first experience of a boiler stove but we never had a pick of tar in our old non boiler stove, there's a good few stoves in the family and I've never seen anything like this before, but they'd all be non boilers.

I must play with the air controls some more and see what happens. It's only been lit a few times so far and the glass is dirty, but not heavily sooting except the top left corner.

Muahahaha · 30-11-2018 10:10pm

Just coming to installation stage and looking for an installer. Could anyone give me a ballpark price on what Id expect to pay for an installation to include chimney flue lined & insulated, cowl supplied & fitted and a hearth for the fireplace. The installation is into an existing fireplace. Based in Wicklow. Ive gotten one quote so far which came to 2,000, does this seem high?

ednwireland · 30-11-2018 10:16pm

Paid about that to get my chimney relined and stove refitted up in Donegal over the summer.

limnam · 01-12-2018 5:40pm

We have 2 adjacent rooms each has a fireplace/heart/chimney

I was looking to take out both fireplaces/hearts and replace with a single stove that can heat both rooms.

We were looking at soap stone stoves.

Anyone any experience with them and know if they would suit this setup?

Any ideas on the cost to install into a setup like this?

joeyhh · 01-12-2018 10:22pm

Hi, we are in the early stages of a new build. Open plan living/dining separated by a double sided stove. A2W heat system with underfloor heating. We have been told numerous times that the stove will be for show and will rarely be lit. We understand this but still like the idea of the fuel burning stove (we were thinking the Stanley Solis I80).

However we were told recently that the electric double sided stove (Evoflame e1030ds) are becoming much more popular and practical for new builds. I can see the benefits, not looking at an empty stove majority of the year, no hassle sourcing solid fuel, no issues with room being too warm when stove lit etc.

Despite all this I'm still drawn to the Solis I80, probably for nostalgia reasons and having a source of heat during power cuts.

Has anyone experience of the double sided electric stoves and would they recommend these over the solid fuel options??? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

clfy39tzve8njq · 03-12-2018 5:09pm

Does anybody on here have any experience with, or know anything about hota insert stoves ?

JohnBoy · 06-12-2018 12:43am

Got a moisture meter and my timber is all mid-high teens, so confirms what I thought.

I took the stove apart last night to see if I could at least understand it and everything looks mechanically ok in there at least. Tonight I'm really struggling with it so I did something bold and peeled off some of the seal rope from the bottom of the door and the fire is twice the size instantly.

It's just choked for air. I think I need to contact arada and see what I can do

Mickeroo · 06-12-2018 3:58pm

JohnBoy wrote: »

Got a moisture meter and my timber is all mid-high teens, so confirms what I thought.

I took the stove apart last night to see if I could at least understand it and everything looks mechanically ok in there at least. Tonight I'm really struggling with it so I did something bold and peeled off some of the seal rope from the bottom of the door and the fire is twice the size instantly.

It's just choked for air. I think I need to contact arada and see what I can do

If you do contact them let me know how you get on. there's definitely no issue with air getting into mine and our wood generally comes up as under 10% on the moisture meter but the inside of the firebox is still all black and shiny.

JohnBoy · 13-12-2018 12:27pm

This stove should have a 150mm flue liner according to Arada, I was sold it with a 125.

being an inset stove it's encased in half a ton of limestone now

amytomjerry · 14-12-2018 2:20pm

I have the Henley 21kW blanket stove installed but the glass in door is very loose..it rattles when fire is lit...plus even with all controls shut, the fire never dampens down so too much air getting in...end result I go through fuel like a mad woman...what can I do to help rectify??

seamus · 14-12-2018 2:27pm

Sounds like your rope seal has degraded and needs to be replaced. This is a self-maintenance replacement you can do yourself (it's in the manual), but any stove supplier, or even Henley themselves, should be able to arrange someone to do it for you.

Mickeroo · 15-12-2018 8:20pm

JohnBoy wrote: »

This stove should have a 150mm flue liner according to Arada, I was sold it with a 125.

being an inset stove it's encased in half a ton of limestone now

Had a look at the manual for mine and it eems the same happened to me. Draw and heat seems perfect on mine but there is a lot of creosote in the fire box. I'd imagine the place I bought from sold 125mm to just about everyone else who bought the same stove off them too.

mcd121 · 17-12-2018 5:00pm

Hey lads

Looking for advise, im replacing my stove because the current one in it is there since 2001 and is not providing enough heat.

The room itself is fairly small, (4.5 x 4m) but opens out into the kitchen about 6.5m x 5m, but has a vaulted celing. The sitting room also opens up to the upstairs, there is the stairs in this room.
The house is stone with internal insulation, its a warm area with the rads on but never too hot.

We have our own supply of firewood so its free fuel.

The options that im thinking are -
1) Get in a stove that will heat as much as possible, i.e a 16/21kw running in the sitting room to try and let heat upstairs and the kitchen from the one stove, and reduce the cost of oil to the rads
2) Get 2 smaller stoves in 1 in Kitchen 1 in Sitting room.

And I was looking at Nestor Martin stoves at the weekend, they are expensive, anyone know if they are worth it? Big difference in the price in comparison to a Henley?
Any advise on good value stoves that are good quality?

Any advise would be appreciated, thanks

The Megaphone · 17-12-2018 5:11pm

Might be a stupid question, but for Insert Stoves, does the existing fireback need to be intact? The old fireback is cracked so wondering would I need to get this replaced also?

clfy39tzve8njq · 18-12-2018 12:44am

The Megaphone wrote:

Might be a stupid question, but for Insert Stoves, does the existing fireback need to be intact? The old fireback is cracked so wondering would I need to get this replaced also?

Must come out for most if not all inserts.

geo88 · 18-12-2018 1:01pm

geo88 wrote: »

Hi everyone,

After reading a couple of threads, playing with a number of heating calculators as well as some browsing on WhatStove I've decided to ask for help here.

I have an open fireplace which I'd like to replace with a stove, but have little idea of what options would be cost effective as well as how much more expensive some of the others would be.

I'm looking at an open area of about 30 sqm with a regular height of 2.5m. According to online calculators, given low to average insulation (but hopefully to be improved in the future), I should be looking at 5-6 kW stoves.

When it comes to style, I really like the aspect of the Hunter Parkray Aspect stoves (very small bezels, e.g. for the Aspect 5), though a Jetmaster 18i also wouldn't look too bad to me.

Currently the open fireplace is a very big source of draught when it's windy outside.
My main source of heating is oil heating (though will change to gas at some point in the future).
Also, I really like the look/effect of wood burning (not into burning coal/peat).
Location: Dublin.

What I'm wondering about:
What size is my opening considered to be? Do I take those 2'' metal edges into account or not? E.g.: 20'' x 24'' or 16'' x 22'' ?

Previously, many years ago, a back boiler used to be connected, however, that seems to have been disconnected for a long time now. Regular heating pipes would still run at the very left side of the chimney buildout and accessible through a small trapdoor on the left wall. Would this limit my options in any way?

Given the dimensions, am I limited to inset/insert stoves or would standalones also be an option?

What type of stove would be the most cost effective option to install and what can I expect price wise?

How much extra would it be if I wanted some sort of standalone, given that it would need some clearance on the sides and on top? What if I'd also want some space to store logs at the bottom?

Cheers!

Any thoughts on the above?

cruizer101 · 21-12-2018 12:06pm

I recently moved into a new house with a stove with back boiler. It looks fairly old but I can't be sure how old. Its a Parkray but no model number or that.
First off wondering if anyone recognizes the model as might be easier to find out more if I know the model, I've attached a few images.

IMG_20181220_201315.jpg

IMG_20181220_201252.jpg

IMG_20181220_201234.jpg

IMG_20181220_201220.jpg

The other thing I was looking for was recommendations for someone to inspect it and check it is alright to use, at minimum it needs few new grate bars. But would like it to have a good look over before using.

funkey_monkey · 25-12-2018 11:45pm

Hi, does anyone on here have recommendations for draught free air vents?
Currently sitting in living room and freezing due to the draught coming in the air vent.

I've seen some on internet, and on Dragons Den. They seem to have all the necessary stamps.

snor · 28-12-2018 4:31pm

I have the same problem. Somebody was telling me you can get air vent covers in Woodies etc that you can open and close - mine is particularly bad if wind is coming from a certain direction so can close over if needs be.

Wearb · 28-12-2018 4:44pm

snor wrote: »

I have the same problem. Somebody was telling me you can get air vent covers in Woodies etc that you can open and close - mine is particularly bad if wind is coming from a certain direction so can close over if needs be.

For those interested, regs state that the vents cannot be closeable. It’s too dangerous and can cause a leak back of invisible/odourless carbon monoxide into the room.

snor · 28-12-2018 5:04pm

Wearb wrote: »

For those interested, regs state that the vents cannot be closeable. It’s too dangerous and can cause a leak back of invisible/odourless carbon monoxide into the room.

Thanks for that info Wearb - didn’t know that about the regulations. Any way around the draft problem - it’s an interconnecting room where the issue is - semi d house so no option of moving to another wall. Thanks.

Wearb · 28-12-2018 5:12pm

snor wrote: »

Thanks for that info Wearb - didn’t know that about the regulations. Any way around the draft problem - it’s an interconnecting room where the issue is - semi d house so no option of moving to another wall. Thanks.

A possible solution is to have vent as close a possible to air intake of the stove.

Mickeroo · 28-12-2018 7:12pm

snor wrote: »

Thanks for that info Wearb - didn’t know that about the regulations. Any way around the draft problem - it’s an interconnecting room where the issue is - semi d house so no option of moving to another wall. Thanks.

There are anti draught wall vents you can get, I've been thinking of getting some too as we have similar issues to you with ours. Something like this:

I have no experience of them myself though so I don't know how effective they actually are.

Muahahaha · 29-12-2018 4:36pm

Can anyone advise on flue lining- so far Ive spoken to 3 different stove installers who say they install it as standard for safety reasons. However none of them have actually surveyed the chimney.

Then I spoke to a stove salesman (who doesnt install) who said that flue lining is not always necessary and it depends on the condition of the chimney- said the best way to go is to get an independent chimney sweep to assess it and if it is in good condition then flue lining is not necessary. Any guidance here on who to believe and the best way to proceed? Im not against flue lining but at the same time wary of being sold something that is not actually needed.

rpmcs · 29-12-2018 11:12pm

If you are to take the building reg exactly. Then you have to line as adaptor is technically an upside down joint as you normally put claypot adaptor up inside flue. But down to installer what he wants to stand over.

funkey_monkey · 30-12-2018 4:50pm

I was thinking of these vents, but would prefer them in brown as it would tie in better with the rest of the house. Says you can paint them, but at that price I'd expect my choice of colour. Also, not sure if they have an insect trap/guard.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DR21-Anti-Draft-Black-Pieces/dp/B077TW188S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1546184959&sr=8-3&keywords=anti+draught+vent

They were on Dragons Den and the product did look impressive.

upupup · 30-12-2018 7:52pm

Muahahaha wrote: »

Can anyone advise on flue lining- so far Ive spoken to 3 different stove installers who say they install it as standard for safety reasons. However none of them have actually surveyed the chimney.

Then I spoke to a stove salesman (who doesnt install) who said that flue lining is not always necessary and it depends on the condition of the chimney- said the best way to go is to get an independent chimney sweep to assess it and if it is in good condition then flue lining is not necessary. Any guidance here on who to believe and the best way to proceed? Im not against flue lining but at the same time wary of being sold something that is not actually needed.

The chimney may be in perfect condition but without lining it,there is a risk of cresote buildup if not cleaned regularly which can result in a fire that damages the chimney making it not so perfect anymore.
Lining the chimney reduces the risk of a chimney fire.

Muahahaha · 30-12-2018 11:48pm

upupup wrote: »

The chimney may be in perfect condition but without lining it,there is a risk of cresote buildup if not cleaned regularly which can result in a fire that damages the chimney making it not so perfect anymore.
Lining the chimney reduces the risk of a chimney fire.

Cheers thanks for the info. How regularly should a chimney be swept, is once a year typically adequate for a fire that is used daily for 3-4hrs throughout the heating season, say 5 months. Or should it be more frequently?

upupup · 31-12-2018 1:05am

Muahahaha wrote: »

Cheers thanks for the info. How regularly should a chimney be swept, is once a year typically adequate for a fire that is used daily for 3-4hrs throughout the heating season, say 5 months. Or should it be more frequently?

It depends on what you are burning,how long you are burning and the position of the chimney in your house will determine the cold chimney temperature which is a factor in creosote buildup.

3-4 hours for five months is not a lot so one clean a year is enough.When you get it cleaned use a good chimney cleaner,someone with a camera and find out if there was any creosote buildup...if there was a lot,then it would be safer to fit a liner or clean twice a year

Any chimney connected to a stove without a liner should be watched and checked for ever.Fitting a liner is the safe thing to do

Muahahaha · 31-12-2018 2:28am

upupup wrote: »

Any chimney connected to a stove without a liner should be watched and checked for ever.Fitting a liner is the safe thing to do

Cheers thanks for the info, flue lining it defintely the way to go. When its lined though how does it work with creosote? Is creosote eliminated entirely or just lessened over having a non-lined flue? Does lining it mean it wouldnt typically need to be swept once a year or is doing it annually still best practice?

Mickeroo · 31-12-2018 12:14pm

Muahahaha wrote: »

Cheers thanks for the info, flue lining it defintely the way to go. When its lined though how does it work with creosote? Is creosote eliminated entirely or just lessened over having a non-lined flue? Does lining it mean it wouldnt typically need to be swept once a year or is doing it annually still best practice?

You still need to get it cleaned at least once a year (twice if you're burning wood really).

Creosote will be lessened if it's lined as a metal liner will stay warm compared to a clay liner. It won't eliminate it entirely.

upupup · 31-12-2018 1:38pm

Muahahaha wrote: »

Cheers thanks for the info, flue lining it defintely the way to go. When its lined though how does it work with creosote? Is creosote eliminated entirely or just lessened over having a non-lined flue? Does lining it mean it wouldnt typically need to be swept once a year or is doing it annually still best practice?

I installed my stove and fitted a flexi flue liner.I burn dirty coal about 8 hours a day and longer at weekends from nov to april.
I clean it myself once a year and all i get is a lot of soot,Iv never had creosote.There is a lot of soot so I really should clean it twice a year.

A friend of mine put in a stove at the same time without the liner and he had a lot of work to clean his chimney of the creosote,he was surprised as he had never heard of creosote before.

sadie9 · 31-12-2018 5:41pm

Hi, we have a Stanley Oisin stove (non boiler) standing into our fireplace. Over the past few months, since the last cleaning the stove has moved sideways - likely from it being pushed slightly into the right side of the fireplace when closing the door.
So the stove is sitting crooked now. Is it safe to just straighten it up, or should we wait til we get it cleaned again?
It didn't happen after our usual chimney cleaner did it.
But we got another chimney sweeper last time, who actually took out the whole stove then re-inserted it and renewed the fire clay.

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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