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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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    #512
    LollipopJimmy
    Registered Users Posts: 5,432 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    any suggestions as to what's best for cleaning old adhesive crud off handlebars before refitting/rewrapping? or is it worth the effort?

    Tar remover makes mincemeat of adhesive.


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    #513
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users Posts: 8,216 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    any suggestions as to what's best for cleaning old adhesive crud off handlebars before refitting/rewrapping? or is it worth the effort?

    Not worth the effort. I use a stanley knife to cut off the old tape and also to scrape any stubborn bits that remain stuck to the bars.


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    #514
    Milk_Tray
    Registered Users Posts: 221 ✭✭Milk_Tray


    07Lapierre wrote: »
    You have two options:

    1: if your bike has a 10 speed groupset, you can use your 11speed wheels, with a 10 speed cassette and spacer.

    2: buy a new bike with an 11 speed groupset. :)

    (Yes....10 speed cassette and spacer is your best option.)

    Hey buddy- hoping you can help, so I have the 11 speed cassette of the wheels now and ready to put a 10 speed cassette on , I have this spacer
    https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WSPXCS11S/planet-x-cassette-spacer-for-11-speed-shimano-sram-freehub-bodies

    Is that all I need? I have no idea where do I put on the spacer, is that put on first? do I need more spacers?


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    #515
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users Posts: 8,216 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Yep...put the spacer on first, then the cassette.

    Edit: that fact that you got the 11 cassette off, I assume you have the lock ring tool? You’ll need one to tighten the cassette lock ring.


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    #516
    Milk_Tray
    Registered Users Posts: 221 ✭✭Milk_Tray


    07Lapierre wrote: »
    Yep...put the spacer on first, then the cassette.

    Edit: that fact that you got the 11 cassette off, I assume you have the lock ring tool? You’ll need one to tighten the cassette lock ring.

    got one and the chain tool to remove etc, all good just didnt know what spacer to use....people say i need to use 2 but according to that link from planet X its just that 1 spacer yeah? Seems tiny that is all I need??


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    #517
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users Posts: 8,216 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Milk_Tray wrote: »
    got one and the chain tool to remove etc, all good just didnt know what spacer to use....people say i need to use 2 but according to that link from planet X its just that 1 spacer yeah? Seems tiny that is all I need??

    Depends on the thickness of the spacer. Put it on the freehub, put on the cassette and then put on the lock ring. Using the lock ring tool, tighten the lock ring. Once tight, the cassette sprockets should not move from side to side. If they do, then you need another spacer. But, the spacer you linked to does like it's the correct thickness.


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    #518
    Gasco
    Registered Users Posts: 334 ✭✭Gasco


    The blurb says that the 11 speed cassette is compatible with 10 hubs.

    So - does this mean that as a 10 speed user, I can make the jump to 11 speed and use my current wheelsets?

    It is a little unclear - from the Shimano website:

    Updates within the drivetrain include a new mid-compact 52-36T crankset, to add to the 50-34T and 53-39T cranksets, and new 11-30 (CS-R7000) and 10-speed compatible 11-34 cassette (CS-HG700-11) options to better suit gravel, adventure or CX riding.

    Anyone any insight? Or just wait until the release in June?


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    #519
    ford2600
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,457 ✭✭✭ford2600


    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=99964163&postcount=22

    Allows you to run 11 speed cassette, as 10 speed, with a dead gear


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    #520
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Gasco wrote: »
    ...and 10-speed compatible 11-34 cassette (CS-HG700-11)...

    Sounds like the new 105 groupset includes a special 11-speed cassette that will fit 10-speed freehubs.


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    #521
    padyjoe
    Registered Users Posts: 1,190 ✭✭✭padyjoe


    As for bearings, what should be the maintenance schedule? The hubs and pedals are sealed, in theory they are supposed to last long time. The headset bearing is not that sealed, but still ok. I've never done them yet.
    What's not overkill? What would be the sensible approach to them? Taking them apart every year or after a certain kms, cleaning and greasing them? Same thing about the shifter mechanism. Would be enough to flush them WD40/GT85? Or taking them apart too? As for the BB, can't do much, it's replacement only?
    After 4 years my bike is still in good nick, I look after it 'on the outside'. It's time to treat the inside as well. Thanks!


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    #522
    Crocked
    Registered Users Posts: 543 ✭✭✭Crocked


    Put the summer wheels back on the bike last week. Indexing was a bit off during the initial spin and went to re-index them last night. It was taking ages and I couldn't understand why it wasn't working. Began to suspect maybe the hanger had been bent but as it was fine on the other wheels and the bike hadn't had a knock in the last week I ruled that out.

    I then noticed the cassette seemed to move at one stage and sure enough when I put a finger on it it wiggled side to side. Assumed I'd just not tightened the cassette lock ring properly. As I went to tighten it it was actually fine but I noticed this nut seemed to be out from the body of the axle. I initially just finger tightened it but then got out some spanners to ensure it was properly tight. Now wondering though if I should have left it just finger tight if it means there's now too much resistance on the axle? Hope to get out for a spin this evening to test it out.

    So should it be finger tight, spanner tight or whats the story?

    This is the nut in the image:


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    #523
    cdaly_
    Registered Users Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    Given that the nut seems to be a cap for the axle I would think spanner tight. Spin the wheel in your hand and see does the axle 'tug' at all. It shouldn't.


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    #524
    schemingbohemia
    Registered Users Posts: 5,606 ✭✭✭schemingbohemia


    I may threaten the title of this thread.

    Got a new tyre put on back wheel by bike shop and bike serviced a few weeks ago, rode it once or twice after with no problems. Went on holidays, went to ride bike to work and back wheel is seizing, I can start cycling but then back wheel seizes, when it first happened I thought it may have been due to the cold weather (!) but now that it's warmed up same issue is still there.

    Is it likely the bike shop over-tightened(?) the back wheel, but how would the bike have been ok at first and seized up later? Will be bringing it back to the shop this weekend but would like to have some idea of what people think it might be and what I can do myself (clueless) to try and fix it beforehand.

    When I turned it upside down the wheel won't spin freely, it will go through maybe one revolution at most.

    It's a Felt X-City with hub gears and disc brakes just to complicate matters.

    http://2011.feltracing.com/Italy/2011/Mountain/X-CITY/X-CITY-1.aspx


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    #525
    Macy0161
    Registered Users Posts: 9,273 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Planning on retiring the commuter which is an old carrera zelos, 7 speed. Given the issues others have had selling cheap beaters, it has crossed my mind to set it up permanently on the turbo. Turbo is 10 speed minimum direct drive - my research/ googling (including sheldon) suggests that the 7 speed crankset will work with a 10 speed chain/ cassette/ rear derailuer. Anything I'm missing before I go further with the plan and spend money (either new or second hand)?


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    #526
    Milk_Tray
    Registered Users Posts: 221 ✭✭Milk_Tray


    schemingbohemia wrote: »
    I may threaten the title of this thread.

    Got a new tyre put on back wheel by bike shop and bike serviced a few weeks ago, rode it once or twice after with no problems. Went on holidays, went to ride bike to work and back wheel is seizing, I can start cycling but then back wheel seizes, when it first happened I thought it may have been due to the cold weather (!) but now that it's warmed up same issue is still there.

    Is it likely the bike shop over-tightened(?) the back wheel, but how would the bike have been ok at first and seized up later? Will be bringing it back to the shop this weekend but would like to have some idea of what people think it might be and what I can do myself (clueless) to try and fix it beforehand.

    When I turned it upside down the wheel won't spin freely, it will go through maybe one revolution at most.

    It's a Felt X-City with hub gears and disc brakes just to complicate matters.

    http://2011.feltracing.com/Italy/2011/Mountain/X-CITY/X-CITY-1.aspx


    Maybe loosen the wheel or take it off and start again... tighten it back up (not as tight) and see if that helps


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    #527
    mirrormatrix
    Registered Users Posts: 615 ✭✭✭mirrormatrix


    schemingbohemia wrote: »
    I may threaten the title of this thread.

    Got a new tyre put on back wheel by bike shop and bike serviced a few weeks ago, rode it once or twice after with no problems. Went on holidays, went to ride bike to work and back wheel is seizing, I can start cycling but then back wheel seizes, when it first happened I thought it may have been due to the cold weather (!) but now that it's warmed up same issue is still there.

    Is it likely the bike shop over-tightened(?) the back wheel, but how would the bike have been ok at first and seized up later? Will be bringing it back to the shop this weekend but would like to have some idea of what people think it might be and what I can do myself (clueless) to try and fix it beforehand.

    When I turned it upside down the wheel won't spin freely, it will go through maybe one revolution at most.

    It's a Felt X-City with hub gears and disc brakes just to complicate matters.

    http://2011.feltracing.com/Italy/2011/Mountain/X-CITY/X-CITY-1.aspx


    How bad is it?

    Will the wheel spin freely when you take it off? It's possible that the quick release is on too tight, but this would only cause a slight reduction in spin.

    Are you sure it's the wheel and not the brakes rubbing? You mentioned that you were on holidays recently. Could the disc brake have been bent during transit?


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    #528
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    schemingbohemia wrote: »
    ...back wheel is seizing, I can start cycling but then back wheel seizes...

    The cone and locknut on the drive side may have come loose/been loose before/after the tyre-change and, when the drive-side cones is loose, the wheel's rotation tightens it, rather than loosening it (as would happen on the non-drive side).

    Don't ride it (the cone will wind into the hub, destroying it) - bring it back to the shop and get them to check it.


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    #529
    CrowdedHouse
    Registered Users Posts: 6,805 ✭✭✭CrowdedHouse


    Folks - just curious, my rear brake cable disappears into the top tube - is it bare wire inside usually or does the outer go through as well.

    Seven Worlds will Collide



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    #530
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    CrowdedHouse wrote: »
    Folks - just curious, my rear brake cable disappears into the top tube - is it bare wire inside usually or does the outer go through as well.

    Unless it has stops either end of the top tube the whole lot goes through. There should be a tube in there to route it from A to B.


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    #531
    burger1979
    Registered Users Posts: 406 ✭✭burger1979


    Looking for some advice here please folks. My saddle is a little too high and i went to loosen it and its seized in the seatpost. I have been going at it with lubricant, WD40, PTFE lube and diesel and its solid. Rocked the frame to and fro in the work stand and nothing. I have taken a vice grips with some towel around onto the seatpost and still nothing. So I am looking for something else to try and one idea I thought of was getting shorter cranks. Currently on 175mm Shimano Ultegra FC 6800 series (52-36), was going to go down to 165mm. I was looking on line at some of the prices of the FC 6800 series and they are a lot more expensive than the newer FC R8000 series. CRC have the FC R8000 for €180 or so (FC Series €250).
    From looking at the technical specs of both (FC 6800 - https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/ultegra-6800/FC-6800.html) (R8000 Series - https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/ultegra-r8000/FC-R8000.html), they are pretty much the same. I note that the bottom bracket type for the R8000 is different but the width is still the same for both 70mm.
    Are they interchangeable? Any other issues with swapping out for the other that I should be thinking of?


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    #532
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    burger1979 wrote: »
    Looking for some advice here please folks. My saddle is a little too high and i went to loosen it and its seized in the seatpost. I have been going at it with lubricant, WD40, PTFE lube and diesel and its solid. Rocked the frame to and fro in the work stand and nothing. I have taken a vice grips with some towel around onto the seatpost and still nothing. So I am looking for something else to try and one idea I thought of was getting shorter cranks. Currently on 175mm Shimano Ultegra FC 6800 series (52-36), was going to go down to 165mm. I was looking on line at some of the prices of the FC 6800 series and they are a lot more expensive than the newer FC R8000 series. CRC have the FC R8000 for €180 or so (FC Series €250).
    From looking at the technical specs of both (FC 6800 - https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/ultegra-6800/FC-6800.html) (R8000 Series - https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/ultegra-r8000/FC-R8000.html), they are pretty much the same. I note that the bottom bracket type for the R8000 is different but the width is still the same for both 70mm.
    Are they interchangeable? Any other issues with swapping out for the other that I should be thinking of?

    Surely getting shorter cranks is going to elongate the issue :D

    Is it an alloy seatpost in and an alloy seat tube or carbon in carbon?

    Persistance seems to be the key then if that doesn't work and it's alu seat post in alu frame sacrifice the seat post and throw the stilson on it with anything between. Lay the frame flat and crank on it.


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    #533
    burger1979
    Registered Users Posts: 406 ✭✭burger1979


    Its an aluminium seat post in a carbon frame. I had a bike mechanic look at it (he has had my bike plenty of times before and had a try on it), and he didnt have any luck. My thinking is that shorter cranks at the bottom end of the pedal stroke will shorten the stroke. I am having lower back issues on this bike (race) whilst not having any issues on my other (hack) bike. I have a lower saddle height on the hack bike and a shorter distance between the saddle and the bottom of the stroke and I'm looking to do the same on the race bike. Otherwise the race bike is a good fit (got a bike fit done on it, I messed with the saddle height a while back and over tightened the seat clamp, bringing on the seized post).
    Its all a bit of a balls of a situation.


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    #534
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    burger1979 wrote: »
    Its an aluminium seat post in a carbon frame. I had a bike mechanic look at it (he has had my bike plenty of times before and had a try on it), and he didnt have any luck. My thinking is that shorter cranks at the bottom end of the pedal stroke will shorten the stroke. I am having lower back issues on this bike (race) whilst not having any issues on my other (hack) bike. I have a lower saddle height on the hack bike and a shorter distance between the saddle and the bottom of the stroke and I'm looking to do the same on the race bike. Otherwise the race bike is a good fit (got a bike fit done on it, I messed with the saddle height a while back and over tightened the seat clamp, bringing on the seized post).
    Its all a bit of a balls of a situation.

    Have you tried taking the saddle off and taping the seat post into the frame? it might seem a bit counter intuitive but it does work. I've never tried it on a carbon frame mind.


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    #535
    saccades
    Registered Users Posts: 1,255 ✭✭✭saccades


    Keep spraying the seat post/frame with plusgas or wd40, fit a saddle you hate and put the saddle in a vice.

    Use the frame to leverage the saddle and keep twisting gently.

    Expect 2-3 days to be gentle on the frame, give it a go every 6-12 hours.

    If that doesn't work use caustic to dissolve the seat post but leave the frame untouched.


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    #536
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,376 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i was just googling the topic, and from what i can read, carbon fibre can have negative to zero coefficient of thermal expansion - so the warmer it is, the more the frame will grab onto the seatpost. not sure if you could get access to a freezer to test that hypothesis...


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    #537
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    i was just googling the topic, and from what i can read, carbon fibre can have negative to zero coefficient of thermal expansion - so the warmer it is, the more the frame will grab onto the seatpost. not sure if you could get access to a freezer to test that hypothesis...

    Perhaps empty a Co2 cartridge onto it.


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    #538
    bilbot79
    Registered Users Posts: 1,980 ✭✭✭bilbot79


    I took off back back wheel (disc brakes) and when I put it back in. The wheel would hardly spin, as if the brake were acting on it. Only works properly now when I adjust the brake too much. Help!


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    #539
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,376 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    maybe the disc - or the brake mechanism - is offset too much. try loosening the bolts on the brake assembly at the back wheel - the ones which hold it to the frame - pull the brakes hard and tighten it up again?


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    #540
    burger1979
    Registered Users Posts: 406 ✭✭burger1979


    Thanks for the replies folks. I will give the ideas a go over the next while and report back to you.


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    #541
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,376 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    what i was referring to is the first one listed here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQ_oIAPuQR8


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