the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Paul_Mc1988

Ok so put the new 11-34 cassette on and then sized up the chain and took of the links all with no issues, joined up with power links sagging ever so slightly. Still waiting on derailleur which should be here tomorrow hopefully.

Heres where it went tits up. Put on three new brake blocks but on one the Allen key screw that holds the block in was reamed. Have a drill and a tap and die kit in the job would it be ok for me to drill the head off the screw then re-tap it?

cdaly_

Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »

Heres where it went tits up. Put on three new brake blocks but on one the Allen key screw that holds the block in was reamed. Have a drill and a tap and die kit in the job would it be ok for me to drill the head off the screw then re-tap it?

Take the block off the bike and give it a soak in wd40 or penetrating oil. Then try tapping a torx bit into the screw. That will often grab even if the allen key slips. If you have to drill, the screw may end up turning before you need to tap. You'll have to make sure to be centred if drilling to tap or you'll end up cutting new threads into part of the old screw which will be weaker.

CramCycle

If the screw is still Ok, just rounded, get a hacksaw and cut across the top to make a ridge for a flathead screwdriver.

Paul_Mc1988

It had enough head to get a vice grips on, thanks for the ideas, All sorted now except for the rear derailleur. Ordered from merlin cycles last Friday and no sign of it. Anyone got a long cage 11 speed shimano rear derailleur i could borrow for Saturdays randonnee would leave a deposit to cover the cost until returned

saccades

Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »

Ok so put the new 11-34 cassette on and then sized up the chain and took of the links all with no issues, joined up with power links sagging ever so slightly. Still waiting on derailleur which should be here tomorrow hopefully.

Heres where it went tits up. Put on three new brake blocks but on one the Allen key screw that holds the block in was reamed. Have a drill and a tap and die kit in the job would it be ok for me to drill the head off the screw then re-tap it?

Screw extractor is easiest way, Lidl and Aldi have them in stock quote regularly for peanuts.

Paul_Mc1988

Derailleur came and installed and indexed without issues thanks mostly in part to Dan loyds GCN video.

Final question, could i use the old chain and cassette with the longer mech now if i reset the Indexing and B screw without having to switch to the short cage?

Type 17

Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »

...could i use the old chain and cassette with the longer mech now if i reset the Indexing and B screw without having to switch to the short cage?

Yes, and you probably wouldn't even need to re-index, unless the axle spacing got changed (worth checking, though).

Paul_Mc1988

Type 17 wrote:

Yes, and you probably wouldn't even need to re-index, unless the axle spacing got changed (worth checking, though).

Lovely thats just what i wanted to hear. Thanks

dahat

Each time I remove my back wheel it needs re indexing.

Am I putting the wheel back slightly incorrectly or is it part of the process?

07Lapierre

dahat wrote: »

Each time I remove my back wheel it needs re indexing.

Am I putting the wheel back slightly incorrectly or is it part of the process?

No...u should be able to fit/remove the wheel without indexing each time.

Difficult to know what the problem is though.

Is the derailleur hanger damaged? How old is your derailleur? Is there any sideways movement in it? You can check by holding the jockey wheel and "rock" it from side to side (towards the wheel spokes). Do this while the rear wheel is off the bike. There shouldn't be any movement....if there is, then you may need a new derailleur.

Type 17

Likely the wheel is inserted a bit crooked - before closing the QR lever, lean down on the saddle and jiggle the top of the tyre to ensure it's fully settled in the dropouts.

dahat

I've been taking wheel off and replacing while on the bike stand so possible it's slightly out of position alright.

I have suspected the rd is cooked and will be dropping bike in to get an expert opinion tmrw as part of another issue. I have a second hand one that I hope is in better nick than the current one.

magicbastarder

i never tighten up the QR fully until the bike is sitting on its wheels on the ground. you usually get a slight adjustment in the alignment after taking the bike off the stand and releasing and redoing the QR.

dahat

magicbastarder wrote: »

i never tighten up the QR fully until the bike is sitting on its wheels on the ground. you usually get a slight adjustment in the alignment after taking the bike off the stand and releasing and redoing the QR.

That's actually a very good tip. Thanks.

MediaMan

dahat wrote: »

I've been taking wheel off and replacing while on the bike stand so possible it's slightly out of position alright.

Just to endorse what others have said, this is pretty much guaranteed to leave the wheel out of alignment. If you install a wheel when on the bike stand, you need to then put the bike on the ground, lean on the bars or saddle as appropriate and open and re-close the QR. You will feel the wheel move fully into the dropouts as you do it.

MileyReilly

Do you know if being very over weight would cause a wheel to untrue?

Type 17

Only if the tension of the wheel was poor in the first place - ie: a lighter person can ride a bike with poorly-tensioned wheels and get away with it, but someone who weighs more will bring out any flaws the wheels have.

Whats best practice for a bike thats going to be off the road for a prolonged period (up to a year) Enfilade jr. #2 will be here soon so I plan on scrubbing my partners bike to start and keep it covered. It will be kept in the shed which is well insulated and not leaky.

Miklos

Deleted User wrote: »

Whats best practice for a bike thats going to be off the road for a prolonged period (up to a year) Enfilade jr. #2 will be here soon so I plan on scrubbing my partners bike to start and keep it covered. It will be kept in the shed which is well insulated and not leaky.

Make sure it's well lubricated, keep it on the small ring and smallest sprocket to keep tension on the rear mech to a minimum, keep the tyres topped up.

Wishbone Ash

magicbastarder wrote: »

i never tighten up the QR fully until the bike is sitting on its wheels on the ground. you usually get a slight adjustment in the alignment after taking the bike off the stand and releasing and redoing the QR.

dahat wrote: »

That's actually a very good tip. Thanks.

It's also necessary to do that before adjusting brakes shoes or replacing pads as otherwise, the pads won't be contacting the rim in the exact position they should be.

retalivity

how difficult is it to replace a cassette and chain? Had the bike serviced in the LBS, and they were suggesting that the current drive train hasn't much left in it. They were quoting me 70 quid to replace both with their bog standard cheapo stuff, I had asked for 105 components (as its what is there already and is what the rest of the bike had), they said they would have to order it in, and id be looking at 220-250 for the job. They did not entertain the idea of labour only if i provide the parts, and we seemed to leave on bad terms for me even to suggest it, so i am now wondering if I can do it myself?

fwiw, this 105 cassette & chain set is €63, which is what id be looking to get. Is it easily done? Should i shop around for another LBS??

Weepsie

5-10 minute job. That's a ludicrous quote.

Plastik

It's a sub 10 minute job when you know what you're doing. For a first timer (you) maybe 30 min. Buy a chain whip, a Shimano lock ring tool, and a chain breaker. Might take your total spend to 100. Buy a Sram chain as they come with a quicklink to snap it back together for ultimate ease.

retalivity

yeah it didnt sound right, but i am a complete noob at bicycle maintenance and would normally just throw money at it to get it done. Will have a look at the other bits needed and the process, thanks

LollipopJimmy

retalivity wrote: »

yeah it didnt sound right, but i am a complete noob at bicycle maintenance and would normally just throw money at it to get it done. Will have a look at the other bits needed and the process, thanks

If you're near D8 I have the tools needed and happy to help.

Wishbone Ash

Plastik wrote: »

..Buy a Sram chain as they come with a quicklink to snap it back together for ultimate ease.

KMC chains also come with a quick link and are much cheaper - I rarely pay more than €20 for one.

OP - Tiagra cassettes are fine with any Shimano groupset. I use them with 105 and Ultegra. They usually cast around €25.

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

If you're near D8 I have the tools needed and happy to help.

....Or if your in the north county Dublin area, I'll gladly do it for you.

retalivity

Cheers lads, i actually live in d8 as well, ill revisit it again later in the summer, may lean on someone then!

Thanks!!

saccades

retalivity wrote: »

how difficult is it to replace a cassette and chain? Had the bike serviced in the LBS, and they were suggesting that the current drive train hasn't much left in it. They were quoting me 70 quid to replace both with their bog standard cheapo stuff, I had asked for 105 components (as its what is there already and is what the rest of the bike had), they said they would have to order it in, and id be looking at 220-250 for the job. They did not entertain the idea of labour only if i provide the parts, and we seemed to leave on bad terms for me even to suggest it, so i am now wondering if I can do it myself?

fwiw, this 105 cassette & chain set is €63, which is what id be looking to get. Is it easily done? Should i shop around for another LBS??

I'd change to another LBS, sounds like either a piss take merchant or more used to bike shaped objects where it's not worth repairing them.

When you use the chain whip for the first time wear gardening gloves or the like, if you are unused to the action required it can catch you out.

LollipopJimmy

retalivity wrote: »

Cheers lads, i actually live in d8 as well, ill revisit it again later in the summer, may lean on someone then!

Thanks!!

Tools are there if you need them anyway. Drop me a PM, you could live on my street lol

vg88

Here's a stupid question.

Got a Giant Rapid 6 years ago and finally the tyres have gone on me. Does anyone know how to measure the size of the wheels or is there a place on the bike that states the size? I'm 184cm so the bike is fairly large.

Or are tyres the same as tubes and generally fit?

Thanks from a noob