Detailing chat

If you havent access to a power washer; bring the car to a jet wash, and use their rinse facility only. Anything else will strip off wax / sealant.
- Use a pump sprayer with a PreClean / SnowFoam in it, to apply and allow dwell
- Power wash off with the rinse facility
- You could bring 2 buckets with you to do the wash, or if home isnt too far, drive it back and give it a wash at home
- Bring your wheel cleaner and have them done before leaving the jet wash also

The AG stuff is fine, and will get you by - none of the products will be for removing iron.
Good wheel brushes are expensive, but you get what you pay for - buy cheap and they will fall apart / cause micro scratches on the wheels surface. Buy once, buy right and you will get the return on them - I know a lad using Wheel Woolies multiple times daily for 6 months (at a car wash) and says his are only starting to look like they've been used heavily.

Luap wrote: »

Looking to getting my interior a bit fresher.

Anyone have any idea how I would tackle condensation in the corner of the back windows (with small bit of moss on inside) window doesn't come all the way down so its tricky to get at.

And can anyone recommend some interior sprays that would freshen the car up and air freshners.

I got a bottle of ODK Cabin from DS and find it very good. Lovely scent and repels the dust pretty good.

Quick one guys, the hurricane seemed to kick up a lot of sand, should I give the wipers a clean or is a thorough windscreen wash good enough? Just be weary of the fine sand wiping anything...

DaveyDave wrote: »

Quick one guys, the hurricane seemed to kick up a lot of sand, should I give the wipers a clean or is a thorough windscreen wash good enough? Just be weary of the fine sand wiping anything...

There is potential to do damage, but very little, but its the accumulated damage over time that makes the glass loose its clarity, in the same way paintwork will always suffer swirls. Get the heavy stuff off the windscreen with kitchen paper. Then give the wipers a quick rub with wet paper, and then use them to clean fully

I got lazy and parked mine in a very sheltered north east facing corner.

I still gave it a rinse down with water before I lost water. No foaming done as I'm without power.

Guys what's the best way to get rid of this dirty puddling around the bumper? It happens frequently so will need to do it often...

Curran wrote: »

By 'to get rid of', do you mean, stop it occurring? There isnt anything you really can do if the water is sitting there as a result of a bowl effect. Even the most hydrophobic surface can force water against gravity. So it will depend if water naturally sits there or not. If the surface is flat, then a hydrophobic coating may result in a lessening of the effect.

Sorry, meant best way to clean it off I'll need to do it once or twice a week as it accumulates quickly and it's an eyesore. I'd be hesitant to just rinse and wipe with a mitt just incase as there's a good bit of dirt in it but it seems easy enough to shift as the bulk of it rinsed away from the low force of the pump pressure spray with my preclean the other day.

Curran-

Was worried about that happening alright considering the kind of winter we usually have. Ideally would like to reduce the amount of time I am going to drive it- sound for the reply.




ianobrien-

That's one lucky cat Looked up the Carcoon online-how does it perform during bad weather? Also what kind of Escort do you have?

high horse wrote: »

Has anyone here replaced the gauze in a snow foam lance? There are plenty of videos online showing how to do it but they all use a bench vice which I don't have. Is the vice really necessary or would I be able to get the job done without it?

I managed to replace the gauze in my snow foam lance in the end, the gauze cost me €10 from DnD but it wasn't the problem. After some disassembly of the lance, I found that the inlet for the detergent was clogged with something. Once I removed it and reassembled the lance everything works perfectly again. If I knew that was the problem I could have saved myself €10!

I managed the disassembly with a vice grips and a large socket, not too bad really.

Curran wrote: »

On that note....recently informed that they are availabe at last. Will be placing an order for Microfiber Madness in the next week or two.

ianobrien wrote: »

Great - Stick me down for one full kit anyway and a Dry-me-Crazy XL. You can guess why.

Any sign of them arriving? I'll be sticking in an order soon for BH Autowheels, auto-foam and CarPro Eraser and I'll need them soon.

ianobrien wrote: »

Any sign of them arriving? I'll be sticking in an order soon for BH Autowheels, auto-foam and CarPro Eraser and I'll need them soon.

Order of Microfiber Madness will be placed next week and will have a few on the order!

Curran wrote: »

Order of Microfiber Madness will be placed next week and will have a few on the order!

Thanks for that. The current extra long reach wash contraption is starting to fall apart, and I've some machines to wash and seal.

Hi folks,

Whats the best product to use to get the plastic wing mirror base looking new again?



They look ok when wet but soon go grey again.

Would wd40 be ok as a temp solution?

Thanks,

Fonecrusher1

Most traditional dressing's will work but only last a week or two.

With this type of job, you want to do it once and not have to worry about it again for.months. a bit of extra work is needed in the prep ensuring the surface is totally clean and oil/grease free, prior to application, but a ceramic dressing is the best option...not the cheapest but do you want to be spending 15 mins every 2nd week doing it or do once and not worry for 18+ months.
CarPro DLUX, gtechniq C4,would be the main names with DLUX doubling as an alloy wheel sealant too.
CarPro PERL would be a string product in the more traditional line up of ceramic sounds like too much hassle

You'll be reapplying that after every wash or even after every time it rains. That's what they are selling it for...so it's bought again and again. Get CarPro DLUX or Gtechniq C4 and be done with it for 2 years.