Hub Controller options

mike_2009

Got an email from hubcontrols sales - moving to subscription from next year. Can either pay or return but they don't elaborate on options. Assume app dead from January so can't set/change the schedule, just manually turn on and off. The LCD controller doesn't let you edit the schedule. If I return it who pays for that and what then? No mention of costs / refunds etc. The trial was taxpayer funded but I'm selling the house so just looking for options. Replace with a old style analog timeclock I guess? If I can find the original.

Bit disappointed but what can you do? Any advice on options appreciated. Would like to leave working boiler controls for new owner! Thanks.

AndrewJRenko

I just saw the same email, seems a bit mad that they could brick the unit at this stage. I'm going to flag it up to SEAI and see what they can do.

deezell

There were plenty of posts on Boards warning that this thing was junk. Right now you can buy a replacement Tado black edition from Screwfix Black Friday for €119, or a Hive mini for €99, proper wireless smart stats, app control, alexa, Google, homekit etc. Wire receiver in place of the Hub Con.

Banjo Carney

Will the hive mini only work with a Combi boiler or will it work with an ordinary oil boiler

deezell

A combi boiler only requires a single channel relay. An CH system with an ordinary boiler will generally need a two channel controller, one for CH and one for HW. With only a single channel you can only heat HW at the same time as CH with an ordinary boiler. The Hub thing has only one relay when I looked at their installation instructions, (though their site seems to be down now,) so its just a wired thermostat. The Hive mini has two types, single channel for a combi boiler (HW is sourced direct from the boiler), or twin channel for HW and CH, to control their individual zones valves. They're the same price. https://www.screwfix.ie/p/hive-mini-wireless-heating-hot-water-smart-thermostat/901pv

You can buy the latter, and just use the CH relay in the receiver to replace the function of the HubCont. The only info I've found regarding the Hub con. and hot water was the suggestion to disable its thermostat and just use the entire device as a HW timer? I assume this meant you needed two of them?

Banjo Carney

Thanks that's great information much appreciated. My system has no zones it heats rads and water once it's on so would the one you linked do me. What's the difference between hive and hive mini.

Wiring wise I think the hub controller has only two wires so how would that work wiring the hive receiver. Thanks again.

mike_2009

There's a special tool for removing the hub controller, don't know if I still have mine. Bought a Tado so will rip out Hub to fit it. Thanks all!

deezell

Either would do, but for simplicity get the one with just one relay and zone for CH, as you can't use the HW relay to have independent CH and HW heating. The hive mini has a simpler touch screen wall stat than the standard Hive. Hive is a wireless stat. It can be located anywhere, an it connects wirelessly to the receiver. The receiver can be mounted in place of your current Hub C. It's mains powered, and has a set of contacts to send the live control signal to fire the boiler. Alternatively, the Hive receiver can be connected directly to the boiler in the boiler location, and hub controller can then be removed. The combi boiler Hive mini is the one you want, if you look at the images it has only a single indicator lamp for CH, the other one has two lamps.

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/hive-mini-wireless-heating-smart-thermostat/150pv

Tbh, if you just want to leave a means for the new owner to switch on his heating, you could just fit a basic mechanical thermostat, wire in place of the Hub C. Alternatively a simple programmable wired stat like this Honeywell T3 will give timing and temperature control, and is a straight swap for the Hub Con. No wireless or Internet.

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/honeywell-home-t3-1-channel-wired-programmable-thermostat/901kt

it's up to you. The smart Hive is only a 40 euro more expensive, but does give you a selling point for the house, though unlikely to cause a bidding war!

mike_2009

Went with the Tado in the end - all fitted and paired. Very happy with the app and can return the hub controller to sender with a smile! Might try the Hive in my next house!! Thanks all!

AndrewJRenko

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119924436#Comment_119924436

Who fitted it? Is tis a boiler engineer or an electrician or ???

deezell

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119928831#Comment_119928831

Tado wired replacement of a Hub controller is DIY, two wire swap. Ten minutes work for any competent trade person, electrician, kitchen goods fitter, Broadband installer, literally anyone who can throw a circuit breaker and check that the power is off, then unmount the hub, identify the two wires used, live in and switched Live to the boiler out. Neutral wire not needed if mounting a wired Tado stat in place of the Hub, as the Tado runs on batteries. If you're replacing the Hub Con with a wireless stat, Hive, Drayton or Tado, the receiver unit will replace the Hub Con, you might reuse the screw holes even, and you'll need the neutral wire in these cases as these receivers are mains operated, no battery. Their assiciated wireless stats can be located anywhere, or sat on a stand and moved around to where you are. Nest eco wireless stat uses a battery powered receiver, so it's a two wire replacement. If you don't want the receiver mounted on the wall where the Hub Con used to be, it can be located next to where the Switched live runs into zone valves or directly to the boiler switched live in. This might be more challenging to identify for a DIY installer. The Hub Con original installers would in most cases have just lifted your old stat and dropped the Hub in place of it.

HarryHeart

If the European Union paid for the controller and to install them. Do we own them? If I kept the wall hub controller and didn't use the app. Could we just keep it.?

deezell

I assume it will keep working as a manual stat on the wall. If you don't pay this sub, I assume they'll deregister you from their app. Way back I posted details of how utility companies were being substantially rewarded by the EU with energy credits for rolling out energy saving devices. It was no longer a case of choice for the consumer, and a grant towards the cost of the device. They were more than compensated for the physical cost of the device, presumably churned out in China for a few dollars. I see Tuya smart WiFi app stats for €5 with delivery, so I don't expect they paid a huge amount to have hub c made. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004328837177.html

They've already claimed on your behalf, now they want a sub? If there is no intelligence in the cloud governing the operation of the stat (they claim it works unconnected), then the App to Internet to Stat is a passive remote data connection, nothing to do with them and paid for by your broadband fee, rather like remote doorbells or light switches. Whether they keep a gateway running somewhere to route app to stat traffic is possible, in order to enforce subscription. Did I read that there's a special tool just to open it and unscrew it off the wall? Ffs, it sounds more like a gas meter or an ATM they've installed, rather than a wall thermostat, albeit one with 'intuition' (Their claim). It measures temperature, and turns on/off the boiler, nothing else.

Banjo Carney

There's nothing special about the gizmo to take the front off it's just a piece of plastic.

They're really pushing for subscription I received my third email today.

deezell

Tell them to shove it up their... There is way too much well priced brand stuff out there, as well as multi zone, Hot water timer, smart TRVs, and Open Therm control if you have CH only and a single zone. If you want basic smart stat with an app, lots of sub €50 options, most with Home automation integration, so you could script in your own geolocation, weather watch etc.

How much are they looking for btw?

Banjo Carney

This is from them. It's €10 per month after December 10th

We’re letting you know that our Terms of Service will change from 1st January. To ensure we can provide you with our service and support, we’re offering a discounted fee of €5.35 pm if you subscribe before the 10th of December.

deezell

€64 per year. I'm out. If you want, Email them to come out and remove it, and tell them that you have a new wired (Tado) stat and the uninstaller has to put it in instead. That might make things interesting.

Banjo Carney

They actually expect you to post it back to them if you're not subscribing 😊

Any chance of a link to the best tado to replace it. It's a single zone when heating is on water is on so basically just need it to switch on at a set temp. Thanks

sameoldname

Having actually interacted with the CEO of this company on more than one occasion, this does not exactly come as a shock.

deezell

Tado wired starter is the simplest install, it will wire directly in place if the Hub. Its hard to find at the moment, other than on their own website, £179 for new starter kit, £149 for as new refurbished. (Prices on Tado.com/ie site are inexplicably in £, a pre brexit hangup). The Tado wireless starter kit in Screwfix in Black is a steal at €119, it has the extra option for hot water timing on the receiver, and portable placement of the stat. It would require a connection from its receiver to the control wires going into the boiler. The receiver could also be mounted and wired in place of the Hub C, provided the hub has both live and neutral wires to power it.

Depending on whither the original stat that the Hub C replaced had these, it would be possible to power the wireless Tado receiver at this location. If you want to pop the Hub C off its base and take an image of the base wiring to see if it's two wire or three. The Hub C itself runs from a battery which can parasitically take a charge from the live voltage it is switching to the boiler, so it would still work without full mains if your original stat was a simple two wire unpowered mechanical one.

This method of powering the Hub C was novel, but Hub c users who powered down their heating for the summer sometimes found the Hub C unresponsive on switch on as the internal battery had discharged, and it might take several days for the parasitic charge to restore it.

If you go for the Tado wireless, you will need a certain level of competency to wire in the receiver, but it's not that difficult, and a good sparks will have it in in a jiffy.

Banjo Carney

Thanks for the info. I'm strongly considering the tado wireless seems a great price for what you get. I'll take the front off the hub controller over the weekend and see how many wires there are.

There was a digital EPH timer there before the hub controller

deezell

Then there will be mains Live and Neutral there, so tado receiver can be sited at that location. Had the eph got zones, 1/2 CH, HW, or was it a single zone digital timer.

Banjo Carney

Thanks for your reply it was single zone

Banjo Carney

Had a look at the wiring on the hub controller. It has 3 wires live, neutral and V1. Does this mean the tado receiver is a straight swap. Thanks.

deezell

Yes. Live and Neutral in to the Tado receiver, a short wire link from Live to Common, or COM on the CH relay terminals, then connect V1 wire to the NO or Normally Open terminal of the CH relay. The receiver (aka the extension kit) will fit over the space of the Hub C. The new version of the extension kit doesn't have a baseplate, wires go up and into a small terminal block on the bottom of the ext kit. You have to link the live to the CH relay COM as it's not internally connected like the Hub C. This was done to facilitate connection to volt free or low voltage boiler interfaces.

Here's the ext. kit receiver with the cover off.

Banjo Carney

Brilliant Deezell really appreciate your help especially going to the trouble of posting the pic. Thanks

scholes

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119945516#Comment_119945516

Hi Deezel,

Hope this isn't a stupid question but we have the hub controller and I'm not prepared to pay a subscription. I think the idea of it saving money is outrageous as we have a wood burning stove and we only use boost but this hub controller never worked for us as the thermometer is on the controller which is situated directly under the boiler so we have to set it up as 28 degrees otherwise it keeps turning off. It is useless and sometimes it doesn't work when you try and turn it on with the touch screen. So we still use it the same as our own controller and we were told we would never have to pay.

I have no intention of paying a subscription.

Could I ask , do you know if their is a boost option on the tado ? as this is what we use practically all the time. Also our boiler heats rads and water only at same time. To heat water only we have a lever at the tank.

Many thanks

deezell

Yes it does have boost, with multiple options. Heres a screenshot of the app, this zone schedule has dropped to 17.5° at 12:00 midnight, and is currently at 20° and cooling.

If I just slide the centre bar up to a new temperature, it will heat to it for the time adjustable on the bottom configurator. In this case I set temperature up to 20.5° for 10 minutes, and it starts counting down. It will return to the scheduled temperature setting at 12:12.

I can resume the schedule at any time by tapping the Resume Schedule button. You can edit the duration of the boost with a slider, and choose a user defined time, or resume at the the next scheduled change, or leave it manually adjusted indefinitely until you press Resume Schedule.

There is also a quick boost button on the home page, which just Jacks all zones up to 25° for 30 mins, which is probably too high for too long.

After pressing Boost

If you replace your Hub with a Tado wireless starter kit, currently only €119 in screwfix, you can place the portable stat in a new optimal location, maybe the hall or sitting room, and wire the receiver in place of the hub.

The Tado extension kit receiver has the option to time HW seperately and has a second relay on the receiver for this. ( see previous post image). With the addition of a motorised valve in place of your lever valve, and the correct wiring, you can have it that any scheduled HW timings will fire the boiler but not open the motorised valve for CH. Only CH scheduled events will fire the boiler and open the CH valve. This is something that could be added later at reasonable cost. Motorised Valve about €80, plus labour to fit, an hour or so, then some additions to the wiring to fire the boiler from the valve built in relay when CH is on.

I can't believe the incompetence to position your hub stat in a totally inappropriate location, but then, they didn't give a sht, just fling it in and clock up another subsidy in the kitty. You obviously didn't have an existing wall stat to swap out for the Hub C, so they just banged it in next to the boiler, and made their escape, rather than install a cable run from the boiler to a suitable stat location. All it is in this current location is a glorified timer. With the Tado stat properly located and set to modest temperature of say 21° for a scheduled time, say 4pm till 10pm, it will call the CH and heat the room to 21°, but if you light the stove, the Tado will automatically stop calling the boiler when the heat from the stove brings the room up to 21. As the stove burns down, the Tado will only call the boiler when it's required to bring the room back to the schedule. You won't have to intervene with a boost button.

This is how my system works, oil boiler and boiler stove. Stove heats the TV room but also the radiator flow water, and when it gets going it cuts the heating from the oil while its heating the radiator water. Its a bit more complicated that just a non boiler wood stove, but the idea is the same, the oil (or gas) boiler only operates when the stove is not supplying heat to the scheduled temperature setting.

scholes

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119947164#Comment_119947164

Hi Deezel,

Thank you very much for spending so much time doing up this post. It is very much appreciated. Yes they just installed the hub directly under the boiler so it is never an accurate temperature. The boiler is in the kitchen and the hub would turn off saying it is 22 degrees in the kitchen when it is only 16. Its an absolute joke. So we have to put the temperature on it to nearly max otherwise it keeps turning off , so we cant even get hot water for a shower. Of course it would save money but you would have to wear a wool jumper in the house. It defeats the whole purpose. I emailed them back

asking for an electrician to remove this and put back the existing one but haven't had a reply after their subscription email.

Thanks again

Deezel

deezell

That beggars belief.. Was the existing device probably just a timer device next to your boiler? The Hub is a Room thermostat, it's supposed to be located in a central reception area, hall, landing, living room etc, so it will heat that area to the correct temperature, and by extension the associated areas once the radiators are on, and flow balanced. And this was the Hub company promo in cahoots with your energy supplier who done this? As there wasn't an existing stat, they weren't going to run a pair of wires, even untidily, to a better spot. Your installation needed a wireless stat, Tado, Wiser, Nest, Hive and others. This is actually a disgrace. According to @Banjo Carney they won't remove it, or reinstate what you had, they actually expect you to do it and post it back to them.

Pick up up the Tado Black wireless starter kit ASAP from Screwfix, its at a bargain price. The only install required is to swap it for that Hub yoke, fix it to the wall beside the boiler, then put the stat in the hall or living room, on the wall or on a little portable stand you can buy. Get in an electrician to do it tidily if you're not into DIY.

scholes

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119947565#Comment_119947565

Thanks a mill deezell , I have just ordered that on screwfix. It was a promotion where it was supposed to be free with no hidden charges. Now they are trying to charge. It was never a benefit to us as it just kept turning off the heat. Thanks again

scholes

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119947734#Comment_119947734

Yes sorry forgot to mention the existing one was just a timer device with no thermostat

mike_2009

My Hub Controllers was under the boiler too - funny how others set it to 28oC for exactly the same reason I did! Didn't even know it could be located elsewhere and should have been! It just added app access with no other benefit really (and no supposed savings at all as a result) and now this subscription headache! Ah, well learned more this week about boiler controllers so all good!!

Interestingly Tado is saying my average home temp is 14.5o and other homes in the region are 18.9o. Would everyone turn their heating down please, you're making me look bad!!

deezell

Him: (standing up) 'Time for the pub, put on your coat'.

Her: ' Oh lovely, you're bringing me out!'.

Him: 'No, I'm turning off the heat'.

fitzparker

Fair play Deezell, you probably answered most questions but if you can directly answer mine it would be great as im not very DIY.

We had an old electric timer in the kitchen, a boost button for an hour mostly used, and hot water always flicked off (never use hot water (maybe twice a year) as we have an electric shower, kettle for sink) the temp was then controlled by a dial in the hall. The heating goes on which heats the whole house (as long as the radiators were on)

Got hub controller, again 99% press boost (probably use the app 5 times in 12 months to turn it on if we are out of the house) the dial is still in the hall (not sure if needed after hub was installed?) and now when Hub turned on the hot water comes on with it (installer told us we need to turn the hot water off in hot press as to not make it turn on ( but reluctant to mess with that

with that info can you help advise

1. Surely my grant paid for the controller itself, I presume they don't have a right to take it from us. Will it still work on the wall? , the only "service" they provide is the app right? so presume they will just disconnect the app right? is there any type of app that can work in its place?
2. - what would be the cheapest enough alternative (preferably one that has a separate button for hot water?
3. is the temp stat in the hall needed if you adjust the temp on the app (i.e temp on wall is at 30, in app says 17 to turn off at 22)

mike_2009

I haven't heard of an alternative to anyone's heating app. Some developers do talk to the backend but if that's frozen for you it may not work. The big reason I switched is the lack of schedule access/changes. the LCD panel lets you turn on/off/boost/holiday mode but that's it. Could work but it's worse than the old analog timeclock that was there before. I like to set and forget and prefer a schedule and shiver until it kicks in!

Assume there's a valve to disconnect hot water if you wish in the hot press or is that for Rads, so you're hot water only? That would make more sense in the summer. That's what I have.

My take is you as the taxpayer own the device. If you send it back you're relinquishing your rights to it and offering them to refurbish and resell I would assume rather than heading to the electronics recycling bin. They can't enter your property without permission and it would hit the headlines if they tried! They are just changing the terms and conditions to fit a new business model and see how they do. Up to you if you return. I did register my intention to return from the link in their email, heard nothing back. It's on my todo list along with some out of date jaffa cakes to include with it.....

I tried emailing them to get the answers to a few questions - they replied with a copy/paste of the same information they had already sent me! That's when I decided to exercise my freedom of choice!

I think the Tado starter from Screwfix works with hot water from what a previous poster said but check if you have an electronic valve in the hot press or a manual lever/red knob for turning the hot water on / off if that makes sense. Either way I think it's the best options I've seen so far, or one of them at least.

deezell

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119948014#Comment_119948014

Another fine mess Hub got you into. You had the facility (rarely used) to heat your HW only, almost certainly by turning down the CH stat in the hall, (which closed a CH valve or switched off the CH circulation pump), and then just operating the timer next to the boiler. Now it's both or neither as far as I can deduce. They didn't even put the hub in the correct location, which was in place of your old stat, and with some wiring adjustments to maintain your independent hot water. Did your old timer have two zones and boost buttons, a HW and a CH? Such Hub installations required the old timer to remain for HW control, it's in their installer's manual ffs, turn on the old CH timer on permanently, and insert the new Hub in place of the wall stat, but there are a number of variants to this which were obviously past the pay grades of the dunces doing the install. To answer your questions,

1. Ignore their email, see what happens

2. Tado wireless black edition, or Hive mini for standard boilers and HW.

3. They just turned the wall stat up full to carry the live from the Hub C through it and on to the valve or pump it operates, instead of removing it and putting the Hub there. I can't say for sure without a good few images of your pipes, boiler hot press plumbing, what type of zone system you have, pumped, valved, gravity HW etc.

You'll need someone with reasonable knowledge of how your current system is wired, and was previously wired, to establish the best way to connect a new Tado two zone controller. For now you could just substitute the Tado receiver for the Hub C. (where did they put your Hub? Let me guess. Next to the boiler?)

fitzparker

Thanks all,

I presume if HC is set up to an account they can't log into the physical hub controller box and have it disconnected remotely can they?

Sorry probably should have mentioned,

1. its oil central heating, so boiler is outside
2. Hot water tank is Red twist valve in hot press upstairs
3. the rads id just turn up and down per rad in the room (the hub just turns CH/HW on or off throughout the house)

So yes

Old timer in the kitchen had a CH switch, a HW switch and a boost button ( temp was then controlled in the hall manual twist dial)

Hub C replacement in same spot in kitchen has a boost button (for both CH and HW (was told if I didn't want to heat hot water to turn the red valve in hot press)

Basically what I am after (although the hot Water is a bit of an annoyance going on with CH ( I didnt bother turning valve off in hot press)

1. Keep hub controller until it breaks where I can just use the boost button (presume App will be disconnected)
2. Replace hub controller to modern version to what I had just (HW button/CH button/boost) but equally accessible by an App

AndrewJRenko

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119948078#Comment_119948078

I suppose the key question is whether they can disable the app or the service in some way remotely? Can they switch off their back-end service, or block individual devices, I wonder. I've had to pair the bluetooth and add new phone users a few times, so maybe they could block that?

Aquos76

@deezell Ive another question if you dont mind, on the back of reading through this thread I am after ordering a tado from Screwfix also, however I will be replacing a climote device, the main reason for me doing this is because you cant select timer events and different temps for each event with the climote. Anyway, my climote was originally fitted beside the boiler in place of the old timer switch, then then disabled the build in thermostat and gave me a wireless thermostat which I mounted between hall and landing, we only have a single zone system.

My question to you now is, i plan on installing the wireless thermostat in same location as my current stat, is there a stat built into the receiver also, then if so, I will have the same issue that those with the hub controller have.

This is the current wiring of the rear of the climote, from your previous posts, it will be an almost like for like replacement with the tado i reckon.

mike_2009

The only temperature on my app is the one from the wireless temperature sensor, doesn't appear to be any on the controller at all.....As my living room is a the coldest room in the house, I've no problem with setting the temp as it never reaches it!!

deezell

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119949912#Comment_119949912

No, the Tado receiver does not have an internal temperature sensor as @mike_2009 says above. Mike is talking about his new Tado, not Hub C,to avoid confusion.

Yes, your Climote is only switching a single CH zone, so the wiring is similar. N, L, a live link to CH Com, then the wire that goes to terminal 3, 5th from left on the Climote base, now goes to CH NO on the Tado receiver.

Your Climote has been used as a junction box for L and N, as there are an additional pair of Brown and Blue wires tied in, so these will have to kept connected, they may be power to the boiler. Label the CH switched live to the boiler from terminal 3 on the Climote so you won't get it mixed up with the other two live brown wires and the jumper, which go to Tado L and CH COM.

Aquos76

Just finished installing it there now, was fairly straightforward, just playing around with the app now. Interface is decent and I like the way i can copy and past the different days also. Definitely a big upgrade on the climote and for €120 too, its a steal. Thanks for all the info you posted in this thread, without seeing this I'd never of know about the tado system.

deezell

Haha, you don't hang around. Tado also supports smart radiator TRVs, which are linked to that stat and receiver, so individual rooms can open and close their own stat and call the boiler through the receiver. Really useful for turning off rooms during the day such as bedrooms, spare rooms, etc. They were 4 for €200 during black Friday, but they appear on offer regularly.

ateuptatscon

Hi guys, great thread. I'm looking to replace the hub controller also but not sure what the difference is between the Tado wired and wireless units. Does the Tado receiver need to be plugged into a mains socket?

I have 3 wires going into the hub controller which then go into a relay and then on to the boiler. Is the Tado receiver a straight swap for these wires or do I need to go wiring up to the boiler? Don't think I would be comfortable going near the actual boiler and would just get an electrician if it came to that.

My question is what could I get to just replace the hub controller straight up, as in something that will just connect up to the 3 existing wires and that's it. It's a single zone system with a standard system boiler. I'm just looking for something that I can remotely turn on and off the heating and set a scedule via an app.

Thanks a mill.

AndrewJRenko

SEAI are washing their hands of the thing. Strange that they refer you to the energy supplier, who had nothing to do with the thing at the time, and has probably changed a couple of times since then.

 

Under the energy efficiency obligation scheme (EEOS) , obligated parties (energy suppliers) can claim energy credits for supporting the installation of energy efficiency measures, including heating system controls.

 

In exchange for being able to claim the energy savings from the installed measure against their target, the obligated parties provide support to the homeowner. This is usually in the form of a discount off the energy efficiency measure installation cost or as a credit on their utility bill.

 

The Hub Controller manufacturer did carry out a trial to determine the level of energy savings that could be delivered by their product. This was supported by the obligated parties and SEAI did not provide funding. 

 

SEAI’s role was to determine, from analysis of the trial, the amount of energy credits (savings) that an obligated party could claim for supporting the installation of the controller.

 

This query is unfortunately outside of SEAI's remit and we therefore recommend you contact your energy supplier.

deezell

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119962809#Comment_119962809

Tado wired will go straight on in place, it will just use two wires as it's battery powered. Netatmo wired also, not as popular. Heatmiser also, seperate gateway required for Internet access, but not particularly smart or versatile. Any other cheap mains powered wired wifi stat also, many different ones on amazon, Aliexpess etc, usually a generic app to go with these. Tuya and other brands for little money.

The Tado wireless was recommended in the thread because it was such good value, and Tado has probably the most comprehensive set of features. The Tado receiver will wire directly in place of the mains powered Hub controller, two of the three wires are Live and Neutral to power the receiver, aka the extension kit. The accompanying wireless wall stat can then be positioned optimally, or placed on the little stand accessory making it portable.

deezell

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119962848#Comment_119962848

"SEAI’s role was to determine, from analysis of the trial, the amount of energy credits (savings) that an obligated party could claim..."

...And they fupped up royally. They obviously accepted verbatim the fantasy figures scribbled on the back of the brown envelope. No scientific or engineering analysis, just a group of smug c**ts in suits dispersing well intended EU funds into a dogs dinner.

ateuptatscon

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119962888#Comment_119962888

Fair play for the reply, thank you. Just one more question, for the Tado wireless reciever, is it just a case of connecting up the live, neutral and V1 wires or is there another wire that has to go to the boiler? Cheers.

deezell

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119963124#Comment_119963124

Those three and a link from Live to CH COM, as the relays are volt free, and Live is not internally connected to either relay COM.

If you don't want this receiver sitting on the wall you would need to go to the other end of the V1 cable, which you say goes to a relay (zone valve relay?, or heating relay box?), and you could install it at this point. I'd assume Live and Neutral would be available at this location.

ateuptatscon

Ah okay I understand now. Thanks for the info, very helpful.