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Hub Controller options
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Hub controller has packed it in and looking for a recommendation @deezell could you help advise? Im not sure what zone i have or type, but basically.
House is oil, with boiler outside and hot water boiler in the hot press
The controller located in the kitchen (same place as previous one)currently when turned on also turns CH and HW on simultaneously, we dont need HW as we use electric shower and kettle for the sink. (Previous one had 2 buttons one for CH and one for HW
There is a thermostat in the hall.
Can You recommend a straight swap.. all I want is something that separately turns on CH and HW and one I can do from the phone.
If its any use.. pictures are below (main switch off as im waiting for hub to go dead, so hopefully it resets back up to work again)
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Sounds like a classic hub controller mis-installation case, where a working two zoned (CH and HW) timed system with a wall thermostat on the CH zone was downgraded to a single zone, HW and CH now combined in a single zone, and the most important part, the CH thermostat of the Hub, now located where it can't even measure the room temperature. All you ended up with was an Internet accessible switch, with your original thermostat still probably managing the temperature control of the area where its located. I've only seen one worse than this posted, where the controller was flung inside the inner cabinet of the boiler itself, so it always thought the house was warm. Yee haa! cowboy time.
I'd fully expect that your two zone working is still intact, and that the two wires for the independent zones were joined together at the single Hub controller zone output, marked V1. Of course, the installers should have left your old timer in situ to control HW, and located the hub to the location of the old mechanical stat, but that little bit of knowledge would have eluded them. I believe some of these guys had a single day's electrical training.
I'd recommend you grab one of these bang up to the minute Tado X Wireless CH/HW kits. A bargain at the moment, €139.95 https://www.screwfix.ie/p/tado-x-wireless-heating-hot-water-boiler-programmer-smart-thermostat-starter-kit-white/308yr
The Tado receiver will replace the Hub, and you should be able to identify the seperate HW wire of your previous two zone timer controller, which the hub cowboys just lammed on to the Hub single output.
The Tado wall thermostat is wireless, fit it where it will give the best general measure and control of CH temperature for the house, usually on an internal wall in the living room or hall. The old stat, either turn up full, or remove and joint it's two wires together. Tado will take care of temperature and timing.
Fwiw, this was how your Hub should have been installed, The dotted blue line indicates it was meant to replace the old wall stat, and operate without a neutral wire in battery mode, with the old
timer left in charge of HW, as the Hub Controller didn't 'do' HW, but they conveniently forgot that on install. Was this a 'free' install that went with a change of electricity provider? They soaked millions of grant money for this, and dismantled who knows how many efficient two zone systems back to one. Absolute 🤠🤠.
If you're not up to this as a DIY job, get a sparks who knows his way around two zone heating.
NOTE: If your original two zone system didn't use two zone valves, but operated as a 'gravity' system where HW always heats when the boiler fires, but CH only heats when either the circulation pump is powered, or a single CH zone valve opens, then you have a 'gravity' controlled heating system. This is common, and allows HW only heating, as well as HW + CH together. The Tado controller can be configures for gravity relay operating, where the HW relay is wired to fire the boiler for both HW and CH timed events, while the CH relay either turns on the circulation pump or opens the single CH zone valve. I add this note as from your image I think your Hub is right beside what looks like the boiler.
Post edited by deezell on2 -
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Couple of quick questions please for which help would be very much appreciated.
Firstly, I’m going to buy a Hive. Currently have a Grant oil boiler controlled by a Flash 31031. There is no thermostat. When the boiler is on it heats the radiators and the hot water tank in the hot press. All pretty simple hopefully.
Which Hive is the correct one for my situation? I see two V4 options; “heating and hot water” and “heating opentherm”.
Secondly, I opened up the flash controller and am slightly confused by the wiring.
Port 1 has one brown live wire going inPort 2 has a blue wire connected to port L
Port N has two blue neutral wires going in
Port L has one brown live wire going in and the blue wire connected to Port 2
The short bit of blue wire connecting 2 and L is confusing me. Any ideas?
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Diagram to the left off camera. Here's a similar one.
As @Wearb says, 2 is linked to L, Live in, this goes to the switch for ON/Timer/OFF, and live goes out to the boiler from terminal 1. On your Flash, There's two extra wires tapping the Live and Neutral to bring power elsewhere, probably permanent live to the boiler. These connections can be replicated in the hive receiver baseplate, N, L, link from L to 1, and boiler out switched live from 3. Here's a diagram with black cable for Neutral.
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