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Hyundai Ioniq 28kWh - thread 2.0

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 649 ✭✭✭Moreilly


    i have a 172, the same car - i don't think there is a way to adjust it, but in saying that mine has always been perfect - might be worth getting it looked at if you are not happy, could be something simple :)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,877 ✭✭✭zg3409


    I have not really heard of any issues/failures on ioniq 28


    I did see this before

    I heard some mention of odd issues with Kona motor/gearbox/bearings on worryingly low mileage cars, possibly root cause is misalignment causing undue stress on parts I doubt changing oil would help, but inspecting it might help detect issues early. Naturally changing it early won't harm the car. It might help if bearings are overheating . I assume ioniq has somewhat similar set up. I mostly have heard of high mileage ioniq having little to no issues, but it's hard to know real statistics.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 282 ✭✭ElitesTeam


    Anyone buy one recently? seems to be little on the market. Will the dealers haggle much and what's considered a good price a 2017/18 year.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,717 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    There will be very little haggling. Ioniq 28kWh is an excellent EV, very well specced too. I sold mine over 2 years ago for €19,500 with low miles and depreciation has been near zero since then.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 282 ✭✭ElitesTeam


    Thanks,

    Can someone confirm,

    It has a battery warranty up to 160,000km or 8 years even if you buy it private off someone.

    Also does the 5 year warranty end at the end of the year or to the date the car was first registered and does it transfer a 2nd or 3rd owner?



  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,397 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    Fairly sure warranty is from the date the car was first registered. Warranties all transfer, they are tied to the car not the owner.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,563 ✭✭✭eagerv


    Yes warranties fully transfer and are from the date of first purchase, however many 171 models will now be at the end of the 5 year full Hyundai warranty. When we traded our 171 in January apparently the Hyundai dealer were offering another full 1 year warranty for the next owner, something worth considering if thinking of buying an earlier 28kWh.



  • Moderators, Social & Fun Moderators, Regional East Moderators, Regional North West Moderators Posts: 12,328 Mod ✭✭✭✭miamee


    It's to the date it was first registered. We had a warranty issue looked at last week and the end of our warranty date was noted on the paperwork.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 282 ✭✭ElitesTeam


    Thanks,


    Do all 28kwh Ioniq have battery heat pumps and liquid cooling?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,717 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    All 28kWh Ioniq have heatpump as standard, but batteries are air cooled.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,821 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    Just as an FYI - I took my Ioniq in for service yesterday.

    And there's another recall due to do with high voltage system cable or wiring.

    Dealers need to see the car first in order to see if it needs the replacement parts.

    Apparently its a 2 to 3 hour job - mine needs the work doing so they will call me when the parts come in.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,717 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    That's the ECU job isn't it? That was a recall about 3 years ago. Visual inspection first and no work needed if it looks ok. If not ok, the ECU needs to be replaced.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,821 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    I assumed the throttle failsafe issue (which I knew about already) was just a software update.

    Will double check what exactly is getting done



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 666 ✭✭✭Fishy1


    Can I ask what year your Ioniq is, Old Diesel? Mine’s a 2018 but isn’t due a service until August or thereabouts.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,821 ✭✭✭Old diesel




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,877 ✭✭✭zg3409


    Battery is 200,000km on earlier models, reduced to 160,000km on newer cars. Contact Hyundai Ireland with reg on exact warranty date and month. All Hyundai have 5 year everything warranty except 12 volt battery. Battery cooling is forced air, a big fan, unlike leaf which is nothing (passive). This means you typically get full 50kW charging rate on esb chargers or 70kW peak on higher power chargers up to around 76/80% after which it slows a lot. This means 20/30 minute stops versus 40/50 minute stops on equivalent leaf on longer trips. On really long trips multiple charging stops are still fast unlike leaf where battery overheats and charging rate slows. Heat pumps are standard on ioniq meaning in winter range drops less when you have cabin heating on versus similar leaf with only non heat pump heating Expect to pay 20,000 euro for a 28kWh model if you can find one. Real world motorway range 130+km, more in summer, more if you drive slow. Real world motorway high speed range of 28kWh ioniq can exceed 30kWh leaf and even 40kWh leaf. Ranges of 250km are claimed by some but not high speed motorway in winter.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,910 ✭✭✭✭whatawaster


    Wondering if any other Ioniq owners have had this issue. My key fob has been acting up for weeks (I assumed it was the key battery needing replacing and I kept putting off replacing it). Things like:

    • taking a few extra presses of the fob to unlock the doors
    • getting key fob not in vehicle warnings in the car

    Eventually, over the weekend, these issues have become seemingly permanent. I can't lock the doors when I leave the car, I need to manually start the car by holding the fob to the start button.

    This was also happening with the spare key. I replaced the batteries on both, but no change.

    Local Hyundai dealership, helpfully, can fit the car in for a check in 2 months.

    Anyone come across this and any ideas of what I might do?

    There is less than a year left on the warranty so considering bringing it elsewhere to be looked at.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,144 ✭✭✭innrain


    My bet is on the 12V battery. Can you get it tested?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,910 ✭✭✭✭whatawaster



    Thanks,

    Do I need to bring to a garage to get it tested? (Hyundai Assist might also be an option)

    Would car still start and run normally if the 12V battery is causing issues? Also, no battery warning light on dash



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  • Posts: 0 ✭✭✭✭ Henrik Squeaking Pest


    Where are you based? I have a plug in trickle charger that you can connect to 12v to get idea of how 'healthy' it is.

    They're about €20 from Lidl/Aldi whenever they pop up.

    Failing that, just go to a motor factors and get a new 12v battery and connect it yourself. Will cost you €50/€85.

    If it doesn't improve things - at least you have a spare for when the one in the car does give up the ghost!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,717 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    What @[Deleted User] said. First sign of any electrical issues, just replace the battery. It's cheap.



  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭bootser


    Yeah, I'm noticing exactly the same issue recently, like you thought it was the key fob battery but havent gotten round to changing it yet! I have had the battery saver warning on once or twice though so could be the 12V alright (Im in a 171 with the original battery!) Have a decent trickle charger at home so Ill hook it up when I get a chance (just for reference! Im sure I've had the value from the original at this stage anyway!).

    Thanks for the info from other posters!!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 530 ✭✭✭raddo


    This happened me last year and I replaced the battery in the key fob. No issue since



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,218 ✭✭✭snowcat


    What is the full range showing now that temps have heated up a bit. Im showing 255km on 171 28



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,717 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    You must have a light foot / don't do any motorway 120km/h driving? I used to see 236km regularly in summer, but only if my last few drives didn't have much motorway on them. Have a heavy foot though and usually drive a bit above the speed limits.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,306 ✭✭✭Zamboni


    Hi fluffykre

    I found this super post after a trawl and hoping you any other 28kWh Ioniq owners with solar can assist?

    I have an Ioniq 28kWh and Zappi v1 and I had a small solar array 2.4 installed recently.

    Ideally I would like to only use 100% surplus into the Ioniq.

    My understanding of the posts and youtube (and my own tests) is that it is only possible to get 100% surplus into EV at 1.4kWh from Solar.

    When I reduce the MGL to say 50% in ECO+ and set Current Charge in Ioniq to Minimum - the Ioniq will charge at 700w from Solar BUT still imports the other 700w from the grid in order to meet the 1.4kWh EV Charging Standard. Which is very useful for charging on cloudy days.

    So there is no way to get 100% surplus only into the Ioniq at less than 1.4kWh. (Please tell me this statement is wrong 😀)



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,218 ✭✭✭snowcat


    Drive mostly in sport mode as I like the acceleration. Not much motorway all right. I run the tyres at 39psi and charge just on the granny cable. Regen is off. Saw up to 270kms last summer.

    Post edited by snowcat on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,821 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    Best reading I've ever seen was 210 to 215 kms on gom at 100 percent charge.

    I have however got the equivalent of 235 kms range in terms of kms travelled per percent (ie 2.3 kms travelled for every percent of battery used)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,877 ✭✭✭zg3409


    Buy a quality key fob battery from the likes of a jewellers. Often those sold in shops may have been sitting around for years and may be low quality or fakes.

    I found a good quality battery lasts much longer.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,877 ✭✭✭zg3409


    Go to any motor factors (not dealer) and get a new battery fitted. They might not have right one in stock. If you ask nicely they might fit it for you too.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,545 ✭✭✭denismc


    Afaik 1.4kw is the minimum the Zappi V1 will send to the car regardless of which mode you use.

    I have a smaller array than yours (2.1kW) and I have the Zappi set to 60% green, which essentially reduces the unit price of your electricity by 60%.

    I wouldn't fret too much about the 100% thing, your array is relatively small so the bulk of the electricity going to your car is still going from the grid.

    On average my panels produce enough surplus for about 2k km per year which is about 10% of my total driving



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,717 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    What's the point of charging during the day with 60% solar? The saving would be tiny compared to charging at less than half price night rate.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,545 ✭✭✭denismc


    There is no real financial saving, but if you don't have a battery then your surplus is just going to grid, tbh its more of a talking point to say you charge your car with solar.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,717 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    @denismc - fair enough - get more PV though 😁



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,877 ✭✭✭zg3409


    Not sure it was mentioned here but it looks like Hyundai ioniq 28/38kWh and plug in and hybrids are all going to be discontinued this year.

    As an owner I would be worried about support and spare parts and lower numbers of scrap cars in breakers. We should try keep a record of the locations of any scrapped ioniqs now that many cars are out of 5 year "everything" warranty. The cars give very little trouble but it's not good news.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyundai_Ioniq

    "Following the discontinuation on the home South Korean market in 2021, Hyundai Ioniq has been fully discontinued globally in June 2022 in favour of fully-electric lineup of Ioniq-badged models starting from the Ioniq 5 crossover with Ioniq 6 and Ioniq 7 to follow.[15]'



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,821 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    End of production of a model doesnt stop the after sales support when the manufacturer stays in business.

    Even when a model is being replaced - you often find that the new model is a totally new model - new engines, platform etc.

    So the manufacturers have the ability to maintain after sales support for the models they are discontinuing.

    I wonder will there be some kind of Ioniq 3 replacement albeit a crossover.



  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,397 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    I assumed they were just sticking with Ioniq 3 going forward and would be doing a face-lift/replacement on the same platform as ioniq 5 and 6 rather than ditching it altogether.



  • Registered Users Posts: 45 fluffykre


    Hi Zamboni just seeing your message now. I have had my zappi charger installed for a few months and I am able to get the car to take as low as 0.5kW.

    This is my setup:

    Zappi is priority 01.

    Car is set to minimum on both options on EV settings (one of them controls the lowering on the zappi charge)

    Zappi - Charging mode Eco+

    Set the minimum use (the scale 1 to 100%) to 1%

    This allows the car to keep charging when clouds move over the panels. When it gets later in the day and there's only 0.1kW excess then 0.4kW comes from the grid.

    Eddi is set to Priority 2

    When the car is used during the day the excess can be dumping into the hot water cylinder so if I need to pop out for an hour i'm not sending that energy to the grid. Same in the evening when I see excess starting to move down to 0.1kW I will stop charging and let the eddi take the excess.

    I would love a battery (commercial or DIY) and more panels however this is quite cost affective with a 24 hour meter. Over the past 2 months I have pushed around 200kWh into the car each month, At around 90% from solar. I am presenting running 75% on day time units so at the end of the year I will run the numbers to see if sticking with the 24 hour makes sense.

    200kWh x 8km/kWh = 1,600km x 0.9 = 1,440 km a month in free travel purely from solar. My thoughts are solar all the way over night charging if you can charge as low as 500 watts.

    This is what makes the ioniq 28 a perfect compliment to someone who has solar without a home storage battery. Other options would be a Kia eniro however all the kia eniro in ireland came with 3phase which means this trick wont work, maybe a UK import single phase kia eniro.

    Zamboni let us know how you get on when you teak the setting like above! Based on your array size, night rate may make the most sense. If you could upgrade the array to 4 or 6kW it would be easier to have more time solar above the 500 watt level

    Post edited by fluffykre on


  • Registered Users Posts: 102 ✭✭Neleven


    If something goes wrong it better go wrong in the next 2 kms!




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,717 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Class, @Neleven - long may your Ioniq 28 last!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,217 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    You might actually begin to observe some actual deg now.

    We're on our second Ioniq28 , first I took from ~0k to 50k km in 12 months before selling, the second is herself's (and our current main car) and we've gone from 108k to 134k in about 9 months. No observable deg yet, I'm working off the theory that Hyundai supplied a large buffer and have equipped the car bms in such a way that the deg is matched by releasing some buffer until the 160/200k mark is reached. I can still pull ~28kWh from the car.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,877 ✭✭✭zg3409


    Can you check for reported degredation using a phone app such as canioniq and Bluetooth obd dongle? If in Dublin I could supply dongle on loan. Then maybe state number of home versus fast charges etc. I would like to try get an idea of degredation as it seems to be "zero" below 160k km, but after that is unknown. I might hang on to my car for a long time. Have you ever changed the oil in the "gearbox" transfer box like this video?




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,717 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    There's a buffer in reported usable capacity that gets smaller as the "real" degradation creeps up. I thought Nyland reported that you would start to see it with an app and OBDII dongle at around 90-100k km? The air cooling of the battery in Ioniq 28kWh seems to do the job pretty well even though this is one of the few EVs that can actually charge continuously at near 3C. If I had one again, I would have no problem buying a high mileage one out of battery warranty, provided you could get one substantially cheaper than one that was still in warranty. This might not be the case at the moment!



  • Registered Users Posts: 102 ✭✭Neleven


    Am planning to keep it indefinitely so long may it last indeed!



  • Registered Users Posts: 45 fluffykre


    A few months ago I asked my local dealership if they could change it. They said they found the procedure on how to change the fluid however in the procedure it does not state what fluid to replace it with. They said they would contact me when Hyundai ireland provides them advice. Still waiting for the call.



  • Registered Users Posts: 102 ✭✭Neleven


    I would guesstimate around 10% loss based on usage: for example, drove 198kms yesterday at 11.8 efficiency with 28kms left. At full capacity, if my understanding is correct, 10.0 efficiency would give 280 kms range, 14.0 efficiency would get 200 kms range so 12.0 efficiency would deliver 240: so 220 give or take for 11.8 suggests about 10% loss of range. Of course, I have no idea whether the losses will accelerate as it gets older or whether at 400000 it will have lost 20%, but the truth is, even if it’s worse the car serves me very well: 50kms each way commute with capacity for further runs to all the kids’ activities after. 90% + charge at home on night rate. Do one or two trips annually of around 300kms, mostly motorway, but I just take my time and anticipate delays at chargers (though mostly I’ve been lucky).



  • Registered Users Posts: 102 ✭✭Neleven


    Thanks for the offer, have never checked it out. Haven’t done the oil thing either - car serviced in main dealers where I bought all the way through though got messed around a little last 6 months so went to another main dealership for the last service.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,717 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    @Neleven - the car will be able to do a 100km commute in winter for many years to come, no doubt about it. And with a long commute like that in a relatively cheap EV like the Ioniq 28, you will save yourself a fortune each year in fuel. And save the planet from tonnes of fumes.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,217 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    That Ioniq will serve you well for years so. Great car choice to suit your needs. I also find that if we had more 100+kW chargers, the Ioniq28 is a great road trip car for its size and range. It charges so fast compared to the other EVs.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 102 ✭✭Neleven


    @unkel and @ELM327 above, couldn’t agree more: the ioniq was and is ideal - probably the best value for money EV there’s been considering range, charging speed, comfort and more. That’s why I’m going to keep it. I did consider changing a year ago but not much that would be an upgrade would have been worth the money and availability wasn’t good (it’s even worse now).



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