Good calving cameras / security cameras

Tig98

Im away getting a degree and so my input on the home farm is gone way way down. I do feel a degree of guilt about leaving the work up to my father, but at the end of the day Ive to do my own thing too.

I was thinking itd be a nice idea to get some calving cameras set up for the spring, itd take some bit of pressure off him if he didn't have to get dressed and go down to check the cows in the small hours. Does anyone have any good recommendations? Theres a good 150 meters between the house and the calving shed, so I don't think WiFi cameras would be much good. Hassle of laying a physical wire that distance though and trying to mind it isnt ideal either.

emaherx

Tig98 wrote: »

Im away getting a degree and so my input on the home farm is gone way way down. I do feel a degree of guilt about leaving the work up to my father, but at the end of the day Ive to do my own thing too.

I was thinking itd be a nice idea to get some calving cameras set up for the spring, itd take some bit of pressure off him if he didn't have to get dressed and go down to check the cows in the small hours. Does anyone have any good recommendations? Theres a good 150 meters between the house and the calving shed, so I don't think WiFi cameras would be much good. Hassle of laying a physical wire that distance though and trying to mind it isnt ideal either.

Have you a budget in mind?

Fixed position cameras? Or PTZ? (PTZ pan tilt zoom)

2 nanostations or similar will give you a WiFi link over 150m easily.

There are loads of options for cameras from very cheap to eye watering. Cheap cameras may have poor night vision but this can be over come with lights in the shed. Very expensive cameras can read a tag from across the shed in the dark.


I started off with a Floureon 8ch DVR with 4 wired cameras. It cost about €60 it's done fine for past 3 years. But night vision is poor and getting poorer as infrared LED's are failing, it's not a major issue as I put a smart switch in to turn on lights in the shed. Also the app is annoying in that it runs in the background and can drain battery on your phone if you don't force quit it after viewing.

I'm currently upgrading my system to Hikvision DVR and cameras which are used quite widely by CCTV installers.

sob1467

I was in a similar boat to you a few months ago. Shed was just a bit too far away from the house to boost the WiFi signal too, despite buying two different boosters on Amazon to see if it would work.

After the boosters didn't work I tested a GoMo Sim Card in the shed. There was good 4G coverage there. Bought a 4G Wifi Router (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07S7DMY3H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) it cost £100 now up to £130, but a similar cheaper one would do.



Put the router into this waterproof box (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003O2X6T8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) costing £18.50


I bought two Xiaomi outdoor WIFI cameras (https://www.amazon.co.uk/YI-Security-Surveillance-Waterproof-Detection/dp/B0794TN8J5/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-drs1_0?cv_ct_cx=yi%2Bcamera&dchild=1&keywords=yi%2Bcamera&pd_rd_i=B0794TN8J5&pd_rd_r=d0390f6a-fb62-4a7a-b3a2-a5d36df72d18&pd_rd_w=xtwOi&pd_rd_wg=P3Dd5&pf_rd_p=8bbe1fe3-6a47-48c4-8724-0f81b51372a6&pf_rd_r=WBYSMFFZ5BWJFNG7S8K5&qid=1606131234&sr=1-1-69f2aa40-4718-4485-ba0d-6c4119696677&th=1 ) These are currently £35 each.


So:
Router £100
Waterproof box £18.50
2x Cameras £35 = £70
Total : £188.50 and €10 monthly for GoMo subscription for 4G



The system is pretty good, it has caught a good few cows calving. The camera quality is very strong up to 1080p and is available on phone, tablets, computers all at the same time and I have had no issue with data limits on GoMo neither. It is one option for you.

emaherx

sob1467 wrote: »

I was in a similar boat to you a few months ago. Shed was just a bit too far away from the house to boost the WiFi signal too, despite buying two different boosters on Amazon to see if it would work.

After the boosters didn't work I tested a GoMo Sim Card in the shed. There was good 4G coverage there. Bought a 4G Wifi Router .

Devices sold as WiFi boosters were never going to work for this job.
The nanostations are not a "Booster" but are designed for the purpose of creating a point to point link and can work over a few KM with line of sight.

You could consider this for your own setup and save the €10 a month.
There is of course nothing technically wrong with your setup and it is ideal for those who have no chance of setting up such a point to point link.

emaherx

I went to look for a link to 2 pre configured nanostations that I'd come across previously but couldn't find it.
I did however come across this https://www.amazon.co.uk/KuWFi-Wireless-Supports-Transmission-Distance/dp/B07Z4R827X/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1GN0SVN8NP3F1&dchild=1&keywords=point+to+point+wifi&qid=1606133808&sprefix=point+to+%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-3 which seems very cheap but it looks to be a simple solution and claims to cover 1KM

sob1467

emaherx wrote: »

I went to look for a link to 2 pre configured nanostations that I'd come across previously but couldn't find it.
I did however come across this https://www.amazon.co.uk/KuWFi-Wireless-Supports-Transmission-Distance/dp/B07Z4R827X/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1GN0SVN8NP3F1&dchild=1&keywords=point+to+point+wifi&qid=1606133808&sprefix=point+to+%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-3 which seems very cheap but it looks to be a simple solution and claims to cover 1KM

Great thank you for this.

Tig98

Im with GoMo myself and the coverage on the farm is nearly nonexistent so thats a no go!
The nanostations might do the job alright, and the one you linked doesnt look as complex as other ones in regards of setting up. Does the master station have to be stationed up high on the exterior of the house to work? That one picture of it on a chimney threw me a bit! I wouldn't be the most tech savvy but Id surely be able to get it going.

Budget wise, probably not over €200. No point getting dealz quality ones that have to be replaced in two years, but no need for all the bells and whistles either. Once the nanostation is set up and there's WiFi in the shed could I set up a smart bulb, or do you need an ethernet connection to get the WiFi? The night time would be the biggest use of it so no point if it wont work in the dark, be it night vision cameras or remote lighting

curiousinvestor

In a similar boat here. 150m line of sight to shed.
So I need :
1, Wifi bridge at house connected to router at house.
2. Other wifi bridge at shed connected to a new router.
3.Power supply in shed. To bridge, new router and camera ?
4. Wire/ cable connecting new router to camera.
5. One new ptz camera ?
Just trying to get my head in the right place, am I missing anything

emaherx

The disclaimer part for my link is I've not used these ones and only stumbled across them today.

But, height is not required, unless you need to go over an object, so idealy if you can place them in a position where they have clear line of sight as radio waves travel in straight lines. In reality you may not need completly clear line of site as the signal may penetrate through some walls, but the number of walls and the materials will have an impact so best avoided as much as possible.

They certainly look easy setup, I was looking to see if there were preconfigured nanostation pairs advertised as this would also be simple. Here is the link I had in mind but it says discontinued: https://www.irishwireless.net/point-to-point-kits/small-business-ptp/nsm5-ptp-kit the price is considerably more too.

For your camera's would a single PTZ cover your needs or multiple static cameras? This really comes down to how your sheds and pens are layed out and or personal preferance.

emaherx

curiousinvestor wrote: »

In a similar boat here. 150m line of sight to shed.
So I need :
1, Wifi bridge at house connected to router at house.
2. Other wifi bridge at shed connected to a new router.
3.Power supply in shed. To bridge, new router and camera ?
4. Wire/ cable connecting new router to camera.
5. One new ptz camera ?
Just trying to get my head in the right place, am I missing anything

1 yes
2 no need for router in shed (posibly a switch for more than one network device)
3 yes, power in shed, Power for bridge and camera can be supplied over the ethernet cable so one double socket will do for the 2 power supplies.
4 cable direct to bridge device if one network camera or switch if multiple
5 If one PTZ camera will cover you then thats it


The only pit fall here with powering over the ethernet cable using POE (Power over ethernet). There are a number of different standards as well as non standard Passive POE. The link I provided for the point to point kit uses passive POE which just injects power from their PSU into otherwise unused wires in 10/100 ethernet networks using 2 network cables that simply pass through the PSU.



IEEE 802.3af for example is one of the POE standards used in networking and requires a POE switch or injector which conforms to the same standard in order to work. There is more info here https://www.black-box.de/en-de/page/23894/Resources/Technical-Resources/Black-Box-Explains/lan/PoE-in-Networking it is very important to not mix the POE types as you may cause harm for a start propper POE uses 48V and most Passive POE devices use 12V(or any voltage they feel like), there are other techcnical differences also.

CCTV cmaera's may conform to the POE standards but many cheaper ones just use passive POE.

Holly Tree Farm

emaherx wrote: »

1 yes
2 no need for router in shed (posibly a switch for more than one network device)
3 yes, power in shed, Power for bridge and camera can be supplied over the ethernet cable so one double socket will do for the 2 power supplies.
4 cable direct to bridge device if one network camera or switch if multiple
5 If one PTZ camera will cover you then thats it


The only pit fall here with powering over the ethernet cable using POE (Power over ethernet). There are a number of different standards as well as non standard Passive POE. The link I provided for the point to point kit uses passive POE which just injects power from their PSU into otherwise unused wires in 10/100 ethernet networks using 2 network cables that simply pass through the PSU.



IEEE 802.3af for example is one of the POE standards used in networking and requires a POE switch or injector which conforms to the same standard in order to work. There is more info here https://www.black-box.de/en-de/page/23894/Resources/Technical-Resources/Black-Box-Explains/lan/PoE-in-Networking it is very important to not mix the POE types as you may cause harm for a start propper POE uses 48V and most Passive POE devices use 12V(or any voltage they feel like), there are other techcnical differences also.

CCTV cmaera's may conform to the POE standards but many cheaper ones just use passive POE.

Hi sorry for jumping in on this, but we are in the same position as the original poster. I was following most of what was being said, but not been very technically minded, i got lost on your last post about poe standards lol. Would this be adequate for what we would needhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/KuWFi-Wireless-Supports-transmission-application/dp/B07Z4KHHLN/ref=asc_df_B07Z4KHHLN/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310842873031&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4429376369160098959&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20474&hvtargid=pla-886907281802&th=1

emaherx

Holly Tree Farm wrote: »

Hi sorry for jumping in on this, but we are in the same position as the original poster. I was following most of what was being said, but not been very technically minded, i got lost on your last post about poe standards lol. Would this be adequate for what we would needhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/KuWFi-Wireless-Supports-transmission-application/dp/B07Z4KHHLN/ref=asc_df_B07Z4KHHLN/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310842873031&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4429376369160098959&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20474&hvtargid=pla-886907281802&th=1

I'm sorry I've been known to ramble on a bit.


If you are looking for a cheap wireless bridge, from the description this should do fine. But I can't vouch for the quality as I've never used this brand but at £54 surely they are worth a go.

On the POE, these will work from their own power supplies using standard ethernet cables so you don't need to worry too much about my previous comments. Just understand that they can't be powered from other industry standard POE devices like a POE switch. But as they ship with their own non standard POE power supplies you won't have an issue.

If you are buying cameras that are passive POE its the same thing, but again you'll not have an issue using any power supplies provided with them.

westlander

sob1467 wrote: »

Great thank you for this.

Same boat here want to make use of the WiFi in house to go out to the shed (100 metres away)instead of paying a separate top up bill

@ emaherx What’s the difference between this one you post above :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KuWFi-Wireless-Supports-Transmission-Distance/dp/B07Z4R827X/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1GN0SVN8NP3F1&dchild=1&keywords=point+to+point+wifi&qid=1606133808&sprefix=point+to+%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-3

And this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-Waterproof-Installation-Controller-EAP110-Outdoor/dp/B01N4EGN6H/ref=asc_df_B01N4EGN6H/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309947853784&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8734991022110678440&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20480&hvtargid=pla-405803833561&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

Thanks

emaherx

westlander wrote: »

Same boat here want to make use of the WiFi in house to go out to the shed (100 metres away)instead of paying a separate top up bill

@ emaherx What’s the difference between this one you post above :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KuWFi-Wireless-Supports-Transmission-Distance/dp/B07Z4R827X/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1GN0SVN8NP3F1&dchild=1&keywords=point+to+point+wifi&qid=1606133808&sprefix=point+to+%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-3

And this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-Waterproof-Installation-Controller-EAP110-Outdoor/dp/B01N4EGN6H/ref=asc_df_B01N4EGN6H/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309947853784&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8734991022110678440&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20480&hvtargid=pla-405803833561&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

Thanks

The one I've linked is a preconfigured pair of devices to create a wireless bridge between 2 buildings and can link to wired devices in both buildings.

The TP link is a better known brand but is configured as an access point. I'd have to see the manual to see if it supports a bridge mode also. If it can do a bridge you'd need 2 of them.

Depending on the layout of your yard it may well suit your needs as an access point, it would need a cable running from the router in your house and then positioned in a central position in the yard but from there you'd need all your devices cameras etc to be WiFi enabled.



From a hardware point of view these are very similar devices, but the software may limit whether they can act as Access points or bridges or even both simultaneously. Obviously since the TP link is only one device it's essentially twice the price.

Edit:
This one is designed to create a bridge with a claimed range of 15KM you'd need 2 of them.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-300Mbps-dual-polarized-directional-CPE510/dp/B00N2RO63U

westlander

emaherx wrote: »

The one I've linked is a preconfigured pair of devices to create a wireless bridge between 2 buildings and can link to wired devices in both buildings.

The TP link is a better known brand but is configured as an access point. I'd have to see the manual to see if it supports a bridge mode also. If it can do a bridge you'd need 2 of them.

Depending on the layout of your yard it may well suit your needs as an access point, it would need a cable running from the router in your house and then positioned in a central position in the yard but from there you'd need all your devices cameras etc to be WiFi enabled.



From a hardware point of view these are very similar devices, but the software may limit whether they can act as Access points or bridges or even both simultaneously. Obviously since the TP link is only one device it's essentially twice the price.

Edit:
This one is designed to create a bridge with a claimed range of 15KM you'd need 2 of them.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-300Mbps-dual-polarized-directional-CPE510/dp/B00N2RO63U

Thanks for that one last question before I shell out the cash 😁
Does the first one /preconfigured paired setup one does that work without having to physically connect up all 3 parts with cables.... I mean does that setup work without any need for cables?

emaherx

westlander wrote: »

Thanks for that one last question before I shell out the cash ðŸ˜
Does the first one /preconfigured paired setup one does that work without having to physically connect up all 3 parts with cables.... I mean does that setup work without any need for cables?

Not sure what you mean.
Both units need a cable to at least the power supply.

It may be possible to get them to act as repeaters without a network cable to your router but this is not how they are preconfigured. And honestly I think running a cable from your router to the device would best. Its always better to run a cable as much as possible and have as few wireless links as possible.

I don't think they have enough radios to repeat a WiFi router efficiently especially not if you want to do it in 3 hops. This would be one of these cases where you'll get what you pay for and a simple wireless bridge to join 2 wired networks at £54 is pretty good value.

Holly Tree Farm

emaherx wrote: »

I'm sorry I've been known to ramble on a bit.


If you are looking for a cheap wireless bridge, from the description this should do fine. But I can't vouch for the quality as I've never used this brand but at £54 surely they are worth a go.

On the POE, these will work from their own power supplies using standard ethernet cables so you don't need to worry too much about my previous comments. Just understand that they can't be powered from other industry standard POE devices like a POE switch. But as they ship with their own non standard POE power supplies you won't have an issue.

If you are buying cameras that are passive POE its the same thing, but again you'll not have an issue using any power supplies provided with them.

Lmao no you didn’t ramble, I’m just not very technically minded and all that POE and passive just lost me 😂 I want to get something that will do the job as cheap as poss but not that cheap that I’m going to be wasting my money, if you know what I mean? 😀 will keep following this thread. The only problem I have at the moment is that we have a row of 40ft high 12ft wide conifers in between the house and the barn where we need them? These will be coming down soon though 😀

orm0nd

Holly Tree Farm wrote: »

Lmao no you didn’t ramble, I’m just not very technically minded and all that POE and passive just lost me 😂 I want to get something that will do the job as cheap as poss but not that cheap that I’m going to be wasting my money, if you know what I mean? 😀 will keep following this thread. The only problem I have at the moment is that we have a row of 40ft high 12ft wide conifers in between the house and the barn where we need them? These will be coming down soon though 😀

Unless they're very dense the trees won't affect it especially if you use 2.4 Ghz stations.

Avns1s

orm0nd wrote: »

Unless they're very dense the trees won't affect it especially if you use 2.4 Ghz stations.

That would not be my experience!
I'd be pretty sure that 12 ft. wide barrier of conifers will absolutely kill any wireless signal, particularly when wet if it's blocking the line of sight.

orm0nd

Avns1s wrote: »

That would not be my experience!
I'd be pretty sure that 12 ft. wide barrier of conifers will absolutely kill any wireless signal, particularly when wet if it's blocking the line of sight.

400 mtrs through 2 thick tree barriers here. 50 mtrs apart. with m5 stations set at 30mhz bandwidth.
but if you say different I don't doubt you.

emaherx

Its quite possible that you are both right

Its always going to be best advice to avoid trees as much as practical, but the m5 nanostations have a 15km+ range with clear line of sight. Its safe to say the trees will have greatly reduced their range but but obviously not below 400m

Anyone considering the cheaper devices with a max range of 1KM may not be as lucky by trying to penetrate a row of trees over the same distance.

orm0nd

emaherx wrote: »

Its quite possible that you are both right

Its always going to be best advice to avoid trees as much as practical, but the m5 nanostations have a 15km+ range with clear line of sight. Its safe to say the trees will have greatly reduced their range but but obviously not below 400m

Anyone considering the cheaper devices with a max range of 1KM may not be as lucky by trying to penetrate a row of trees over the same distance.

I could be wrong as I am helping a couple of boardsies setting up through DMs and may have my wires crossed, but I think the OP in this case wants to cover 100m. (open to correction too lazy to scroll back) that's why I said the trees won't be probelm

emaherx

orm0nd wrote: »

I could be wrong as I am helping a couple of boardsies setting up through DMs and may have my wires crossed, but I think the OP in this case wants to cover 100m. (open to correction too lazy to scroll back) that's why I said the trees won't be probelm

True but the OP and others in the thread are potentially looking at much cheaper gear with a shorter range, which is why I'm saying you are both right.

Basically I agree with you about the nanostations but I'm reluctant to say the same about the cheaper option.

endainoz

emaherx wrote: »

True but the OP and others in the thread are potentially looking at much cheaper gear with a shorter range, which is why I'm saying you are both right.

Basically I agree with you about the nanostations but I'm reluctant to say the same about the cheaper option.

Well I'm happy to be the guinea pig, I ended up buying the 1km ones you linked earlier, will be happy to report back once I get it set up.

curiousinvestor

I'm going to get the kuwfi bridge( £63). However I realised i need a ptz with optical zoom.
So I need to decide which one is for me.
I was thinking if I got all the hardware for 350e I'd be doing ok.
Im thinking if there is an option to run a cat5 to the camera it may be better also.
Like a previous poster I wanna spend the minimum I can but also get a bit of quality top so it lasts a few years.

endainoz

curiousinvestor wrote: »

I'm going to get the kuwfi bridge( £63). However I realised i need a ptz with optical zoom.
So I need to decide which one is for me.
I was thinking if I got all the hardware for 350e I'd be doing ok.
Im thinking if there is an option to run a cat5 to the camera it may be better also.
Like a previous poster I wanna spend the minimum I can but also get a bit of quality top so it lasts a few years.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Foscam-FI9928P-1080P-WiFi-Camera/dp/B071YVL4ZS/ref=asc_df_B071YVL4ZS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=218086330525&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5299016830348654449&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20475&hvtargid=pla-424070318545&psc=1

I have two of these, well worth it I think and not crazy expensive. They also have an SD card slot if you want to use it for recording for security purposes.

curiousinvestor

That looks like a good job alright.
I'll have a closer look later
I got a quote of e1250 for one ptz installed,including bridge. So this will make quite the saving if I can do it
Thanks

emaherx

curiousinvestor wrote: »

That looks like a good job alright.
I'll have a closer look later
I got a quote of e1250 for one ptz installed,including bridge. So this will make quite the saving if I can do it
Thanks

Don't think you could go to far wrong with the Foscam, they have a good reputation.

westlander

emaherx wrote: »

Not sure what you mean.
Both units need a cable to at least the power supply.

It may be possible to get them to act as repeaters without a network cable to your router but this is not how they are preconfigured. And honestly I think running a cable from your router to the device would best. Its always better to run a cable as much as possible and have as few wireless links as possible.

I don't think they have enough radios to repeat a WiFi router efficiently especially not if you want to do it in 3 hops. This would be one of these cases where you'll get what you pay for and a simple wireless bridge to join 2 wired networks at £54 is pretty good value.

@emaherax, I will have your head wrecked. But this is what I was thinkin in my own head excuse my ignorance here but if I was able to do it once id be sorted.......

Was going to buy either of "option 1" or "option 2" below (already posted by you and the other one posted by another poster dont know which one is better):

Option 1:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KuWFi-Wireless-Supports-transmission-application/dp/B07Z4KHHLN/ref=asc_df_B07Z4KHHLN/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310842873031&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4429376369160098959&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20474&hvtargid=pla-886907281802&th=1

Option 2:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KuWFi-Wireless-Supports-Transmission-Distance/dp/B07Z4R827X/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1GN0SVN8NP3F1&dchild=1&keywords=point+to+point+wifi&qid=1606133808&sprefix=point+to+,aps,199&sr=8-3

Put the master unit up on the side of the chimney. It needs to be plugged in to a socket in the house for power and as well as that it needs to be connected to the wifi router in the house (so will need a very long lan cable and a long lead for power supply)

Then put the slave unit at the corner of the slatted shed and this one needs to be plugged in as well via socket in the shed. As long as they are in a clear line of sight from chimney to slatted shed it should be sound. Then camera in shed will pick up signal from the slave unit.

Is the above assumption a correct starting point for getting this working?
Btw I have a zosi 2.4 GHZ ptz camera...I presume this camera will work with the above 2 paired slave/master units..eventhough they say 5GHZ in the info section of the above master/slave unit.

emaherx

westlander wrote: »

@emaherax, I will have your head wrecked. But this is what I was thinkin in my own head excuse my ignorance here but if I was able to do it once id be sorted.......

Was going to buy either of "option 1" or "option 2" below (already posted by you and the other one posted by another poster dont know which one is better):

Option 1:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KuWFi-Wireless-Supports-transmission-application/dp/B07Z4KHHLN/ref=asc_df_B07Z4KHHLN/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310842873031&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4429376369160098959&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20474&hvtargid=pla-886907281802&th=1

Option 2:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KuWFi-Wireless-Supports-Transmission-Distance/dp/B07Z4R827X/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1GN0SVN8NP3F1&dchild=1&keywords=point+to+point+wifi&qid=1606133808&sprefix=point+to+,aps,199&sr=8-3

Put the master unit up on the side of the chimney. It needs to be plugged in to a socket in the house for power and as well as that it needs to be connected to the wifi router in the house (so will need a very long lan cable and a long lead for power supply)

Then put the slave unit at the corner of the slatted shed and this one needs to be plugged in as well via socket in the shed. As long as they are in a clear line of sight from chimney to slatted shed it should be sound. Then camera in shed will pick up signal from the slave unit.

Is the above assumption a correct starting point for getting this working?
Btw I have a zosi 2.4 GHZ ptz camera...I presume this camera will work with the above 2 paired slave/master units..eventhough they say 5GHZ in the info section of the above master/slave unit.

You don't need a power cable, you connect a short network cable from your router to the power supply then a much longer network cable from the power supply to the unit on your chimney. This is the Power over ethernet bit, it means you use the same cable for power and data.

The difference in the 2 units is speed, cheaper one has a max speed of 300mbs and the other is 900mbs. Either should work for your purpose but there is not much difference in price.

Dose your camera have an ethernet option or just Wifi? If it has an Ethernet option I'd run the cable for simplest setup.

westlander

emaherx wrote: »

You don't need a power cable, you connect a short network cable from your router to the power supply then a much longer network cable from the power supply to the unit on your chimney. This is the Power over ethernet bit, it means you use the same cable for power and data.

The difference in the 2 units is speed, cheaper one has a max speed of 300mbs and the other is 900mbs. Either should work for your purpose but there is not much difference in price.

Dose your camera have an ethernet option or just Wifi? If it has an Ethernet option I'd run the cable for simplest setup.

Thanks very much that clears up a few things. Yes there is Ethernet in the camera so as you said I can run a wire from the camera to the slave unit.
I wonder if I run the cable up the attic and out under a tile might be the best approach or what way do people manage this ?

enfant terrible

Hi guys can the mobile routers take a regular phone sim or do you need a data sim for it to work? Looking at this one linked earlier in the thread

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07S7DMY3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_dlC_7UnWFbW4CSZZV?psc=1

emaherx

enfant terrible wrote: »

Hi guys can the mobile routers take a regular phone sim or do you need a data sim for it to work? Looking at this one linked earlier in the thread

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07S7DMY3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_dlC_7UnWFbW4CSZZV?psc=1

No reason a phone sim won't work.

Kinetica2019

Trying to follow thread - getting confused with POE etc.

I think there's nanostation on a neighbours house. There's like a rectangular block on the house looking at another block on the shed and I think that's connected to the camera.

Question, If I wanted to put another camera on, can I use that nanostation aswell? i.e point the wifi camera at the nanostation on the house?

Any good youtube channels for learning about this stuff?

Kinetica2019

emaherx wrote: »

You don't need a power cable, you connect a short network cable from your router to the power supply then a much longer network cable from the power supply to the unit on your chimney. This is the Power over ethernet bit, it means you use the same cable for power and data.

The difference in the 2 units is speed, cheaper one has a max speed of 300mbs and the other is 900mbs. Either should work for your purpose but there is not much difference in price.

Dose your camera have an ethernet option or just Wifi? If it has an Ethernet option I'd run the cable for simplest setup.

Stupid question, but is the power supply basically like a box? One end goes into the socket, the other end, ethernet cable to router and also ethernet cable to nanostation?

Avns1s

Kinetica2019 wrote: »

Stupid question, but is the power supply basically like a box? One end goes into the socket, the other end, ethernet cable to router and also ethernet cable to nanostation?

Yes, Exactly that. It'll likely have a "POE" port that goes to the Nanostation (or other equipment) to be powered, and a "LAN" port that goes to the router on that side or to your camera on the other side. And a power input of course, unless the "box" is plugged in.

Avns1s

Kinetica2019 wrote: »

Trying to follow thread - getting confused with POE etc.

I think there's nanostation on a neighbours house. There's like a rectangular block on the house looking at another block on the shed and I think that's connected to the camera.

Question, If I wanted to put another camera on, can I use that nanostation aswell? i.e point the wifi camera at the nanostation on the house?

You run the cable from the nanostation on the shed to a "switch", and then a cable to each of the cameras.

If they're wifi cameras, then run the cable from the nanostation to a Wireless access point, then both cameras can connected wirelessly to that.

The nanostation setup simply acts like a cable between your house and your shed.

emaherx

Kinetica2019 wrote: »

Trying to follow thread - getting confused with POE etc.

I think I caused more confusion about POE than helped.
I'll try the simple version.


A network cable has 8 wires inside.
For upto 100mbs networks you use 4 of the wires which leaves 4 free.
Passive POE simply "injects" power on the unused wires but only from the PSU to the device which can be powered this way. (very important that this powered ethernet is not pluged into your router)
The cable which goes from your router to the PSU simply goes to a port on the power supply which dosent connect the 4 unsed wires to anything but connects the 4 data wires to the data wires of the cable which has power.
Really none of this matters if you get passive POE equipment supplied with its own PSU as you just follow the instructions.




There is a network industry standard POE (often called active POE) which is used for moe expensive network equipment including some cameras which works in a completely different way and uses higher voltages than most passive POE equipmnet. Some implementations even allow 1000mbs as they can add power to data lines. These are more sophisticated and devices can negotiate how they provide/consume power. And you can ignore this unless you are trying to power POE camera's off of a POE switch.

Below are names of Industry standard POE
Name IEEE Standard Max. Power per Port
PoE IEEE 802.3af 15.4 W
PoE+ IEEE 802.3at 30 W
PoE++ IEEE 802.3bt (Type 3) 60 W
PoE++ IEEE 802.3bt (Type 4) 100 W


To keep it simple
If it comes with a passive POE PSU, use that follow the instructions.
If you come across a POE network switch and think great I can power all of my devices from it, then and probaly only then do you need to think about what I've said.

emaherx

Just as an extra bit which may be usefull for any any equipmnet that you wish had some form of POE but dosent.

Any low power DC network device can be converted to passive POE using 2 POE injector cables. One to add power to ethernet cable and one to split it back off.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/HSeaMall-Passive-Ethernet-Injector-Splitter/dp/B076LR5KMF/ref=sr_1_13?crid=3BRRWTOTMO2TA&dchild=1&keywords=poe+splitter+12v&qid=1606556161&sprefix=poe+spli%2Caps%2C189&sr=8-13

you just use the devices existing PSU, the only draw back is it reduces 1000mbs equipment to 100mbs, as is the case with all Passive POE devices.

emaherx

Kinetica2019 wrote: »

I think there's nanostation on a neighbours house. There's like a rectangular block on the house looking at another block on the shed and I think that's connected to the camera.

Question, If I wanted to put another camera on, can I use that nanostation aswell? i.e point the wifi camera at the nanostation on the house?

Any good youtube channels for learning about this stuff?

Why do you want to connect a camera to your neighbours network?
Is it for you neighbour?

The nanostations are most likely configured as point to point (so wireless replacement for a cable)

They can be configured point to multi point, but you'd most likely need another nanostation if on a different building. They are not designed to be general WiFi access points and often only support 5Ghz networks which most camera's don't.

If the same building as an existing camera an access point or switch would be the simple solution as suggested by previous poster.

westlander

Would you need an outdoor network cable for that master/slave setup like this or is it overkill? (For network cable from power supply to chimney)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/MutecPower-Outdoor-waterproof-Ethernet-Network/dp/B00EOTHDWQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=waterproof+network+cable&qid=1606558807&sprefix=waterproof+network+cable&sr=8-3

emaherx

I've used the normal stuff outside a few times and it dosen't last the PVC coating will breakdown over time. The outdoor stuff is not going to break the bank.

The indoor stuff has been fine inside sheds though.

Kinetica2019

Avns1s wrote: »

You run the cable from the nanostation on the shed to a "switch", and then a cable to each of the cameras.

If they're wifi cameras, then run the cable from the nanostation to a Wireless access point, then both cameras can connected wirelessly to that.

The nanostation setup simply acts like a cable between your house and your shed.

Wireless access point meaning a router?

I get confused with adding a router, how they're linked to the main router etc. lol

Like I had cameras before and it mentioned things like camera IP addresses and entering router settings etc.

Kinetica2019

emaherx wrote: »

Why do you want to connect a camera to your neighbours network?
Is it for you neighbour?

The nanostations are most likely configured as point to point (so wireless replacement for a cable)

They can be configured point to multi point, but you'd most likely need another nanostation if on a different building. They are not designed to be general WiFi access points and often only support 5Ghz networks which most camera's don't.

If the same building as an existing camera an access point or switch would be the simple solution as suggested by previous poster.

No I'm thinking for myself, and then in future if any additions are needed.

I'll try get a look at the set up. I was thinking if you had a second camera in the same shed but in a different position. From what I read here, I think the nanostation in the shed should be going to a switch and then from that switch the cameras are all connected.

If the cameras support POE, you don't need seperate power supply for cameras if they're wired? If they're wifi cameras they'd need regular power supply right?

emaherx

Kinetica2019 wrote: »

Wireless access point meaning a router?

I get confused with adding a router, how they're linked to the main router etc. lol

Like I had cameras before and it mentioned things like camera IP addresses and entering router settings etc.

Not necessarily but.
you can get access points that are just access points and require little to no configuring. Domestic routers happen to have built in WiFi access points, you can use an old one if you have it lying around but you need to reconfigure it so its not a router any more. Usually just turning off DHCP and connecting to your main router (or the bridge port) via one of its ethernet ports but not a WAN port will make it act as an Access point.

Usually you can leave your cameras at default DHCP setting and allow your router assign the IP addresses, so you don't need to worry about them especially IF your camera APP uses P2P

you can use an APP like Fing on your mobile to give you all of the addresses currently assigned on whatever network your phone is connected to by WiFi.


Fing
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.overlook.android.fing&hl=en_IE&gl=US

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/fing-network-scanner/id430921107

emaherx

Kinetica2019 wrote: »

I'll try get a look at the set up. I was thinking if you had a second camera in the same shed but in a different position. From what I read here, I think the nanostation in the shed should be going to a switch and then from that switch the cameras are all connected.

If the cameras support POE, you don't need seperate power supply for cameras if they're wired? If they're wifi cameras they'd need regular power supply right?

Yea if 2 wired cameras in the Shed then use a switch.
If 2 wireless cameras then used an access point (or old WiFi router)

I'll beat POE into you yet.......................................................

OK, So if cameras are Active POE, then buy a switch conforming to the same standard and no need for any more PSU's

If the camera's are Passive POE then you connect a seperate injector and PSU between each switch port and camera so you can use a cheaper switch.
OR something like this https://shopdelta.eu/adapter-to-power-supply-via-twisted-pair-cable-poe-uni4_l2_p6216.html between switch and cameras and one power supply but you'd need to make sure the power supply has sufficent wattage to power the number of cameras that you have.

WiFi cameras will need power run anyway, so I'd recommend wired cameras and switches for the simplest setup.




you can get battery powered wifi cams but I'm not going to recommend them for calving cameras.

emaherx

If at this stage you are still not sure about POE you can also just plug in most cameras using normal DC power supplies and completely ignore the existence of POE. It will just mean 2 cables per camera instead of 1.


Or Buy a DVR kit with the number of cameras that you want and use the supplied cables for power and video. This way you only have one network device to manage with usually 4 8 or 16 cameras.

westlander

emaherx wrote: »

If at this stage you are still not sure about POE you can also just plug in most cameras using normal DC power supplies and completely ignore the existence of POE. It will just mean 2 cables per camera instead of 1.


Or Buy a DVR kit with the number of cameras that you want and use the supplied cables for power and video. This way you only have one network device to manage with usually 4 8 or 16 cameras.

emaherx, you might know the answer here.

Will this kuwfi access point work with a 4g three network router and 2.4ghz ip camera?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07Z4R827X/ref=pe_2515581_431334481_fb_remail%5Fprodpg

It seems to be a 5.8g access point so probably won’t work ?

Think I should have bought the 300mbps model as that one is compatible

Thanks

emaherx

It's not uncommon for these type bridges to be 5 Ghz only, they are not designed to be access points just a wireless link between 2 network segments. Basically they are just and alternative to running a long length of cable between 2 buildings. They talk to each other using wireless but connect to wired devices at either end.


So if you can connect your router to one by ethernet cable and can connect your camera to the other using an ethernet cable then it will work.


If your camera is wireless only and no ethernet option then you just connect a normal Wi-Fi access point to the second bridge device and use it to connect the camera. If you have an old Wi-Fi router it can most likely be converted into an access point by turning off its DHCP function.

The Nutty M

Emaherx, we have a shed that is 1.2 kms away from the house. We have 4 cameras (3 PTZ,1 fixed) on a 2.4ghz network into an NVR . It works good through lots of trees. The query is in regards expansion, would it handle an 8 channel network switch on the same nanostations or is it as well go with 2 new nanonstations?

PS Sorry for the hijack.

emaherx

The Nutty M wrote: »

Emaherx, we have a shed that is 1.2 kms away from the house. We have 4 cameras (3 PTZ,1 fixed) on a 2.4ghz network into an NVR . It works good through lots of trees. The query is in regards expansion, would it handle an 8 channel network switch on the same nanostations or is it as well go with 2 new nanonstations?

PS Sorry for the hijack.

If you have an already working setup, then using an 8 port switch should not be an issue.

What's in your current setup? A 5 port switch? 4 cameras and an uplink?

The network traffic from the cameras to the NVR won't cross the wireless link as once the switch learns their mac addresses it will direct traffic directly from camera to nvr.

The bandwidth available on the wireless link will reduce over distance and number of objects passed through and further again when trees are fully covered in leaves. But if you don't have an issue now with 4 camera's then you'll be fine with more, if there is an issue displaying all feeds at once then just view 4 at a time instead.