My garden Room Build

listermint

yulasinio wrote: »

@dodzy that looks great. How close to the back wall the building is? Do you have the same finish on the back and sides?
I'm getting ideas for my shed/office and I would like to maximize the garden space as much as possible meaning that I'm trying to build close to boundary walls.

Thanks,
J

You could build right up to them , but you have to consider roof water drainage, gutters and piping. And also consider how you would get your siding sheeting on and finished painting. Perhaps future maintenance. So the gaps would be then down to your comfort getting at the above.

Might sound like space-wasting, of course, but if you have a typical rectangle/squared-off back garden, then leaving 2.5ft of a gap is a handy idea, assuming the garden isn't tiny to begin with.

By doing this, you have plenty of space for painting, maintenance, gutters, etc. but you can also hang a side-gate on it, and you've loads of space to hide away the wheelie bins, bicycle, kids toys, BBQ, leftover decking, etc. so they're not cluttering up your garden space.

iwillhtfu

yulasinio wrote: »

@dodzy that looks great. How close to the back wall the building is? Do you have the same finish on the back and sides?
I'm getting ideas for my shed/office and I would like to maximize the garden space as much as possible meaning that I'm trying to build close to boundary walls.

Thanks,
J

If you're going to build tight to the walls get the plastic cladding that way there's no maintenance required. You could essentially build the back and side walls more or less finished and slide them into place.

Deleted User

Deleted User wrote: »

Might sound like space-wasting, of course, but if you have a typical rectangle/squared-off back garden, then leaving 2.5ft of a gap is a handy idea, assuming the garden isn't tiny to begin with.

By doing this, you have plenty of space for painting, maintenance, gutters, etc. but you can also hang a side-gate on it, and you've loads of space to hide away the wheelie bins, bicycle, kids toys, BBQ, leftover decking, etc. so they're not cluttering up your garden space.

Amen to that. My late father had a block shed built out the back of the house I grew up in in the 90's and decided to have it plonked as close as possible to the boundary walls for some reason. Was a fine shed/utility room/boiler house. 2 x 10sq SWAs ran for the boiler and general electrics. Hot and cold water. Drainage and guttering was perfect and had an insulated roof but there was only an 10" gap at most between the shed and boundary walls. It was built when I was about 10 years old so I had the job of maintaining the back of the shed as I was the only one who could fit down the gap. I remember clearing the gutters via the roof when I was 16 or 17.

House was sold 14 years ago, I grew up and the aul lad has passed since but I will never forget that shed. As far as I know it has been turned into a man cave since and that makes me happy :pac::)

yulasinio

Thank you all for the replies and sorry to Rob for hijacking the thread.

So, like many others I'm researching on building/buying a garden room + storage. Had this in plan since 2016 when we bought the house but WFH now for unforeseeable future so might as well get my arse in gear and do it this year.

The garden is 10.4m/7.4m and would like to use as much of the width as possible to get around 20sqm building which will then be split between a storage area and a office/hang out room.

I kept looking at timber frame offices and like Rob I think I can knock it out myself with a bit of help here and there but I don't really like to leave 1m to the sides and back for maintenance etc. I'm also thinking block built with the back and one side walls close as possible to existing block fence walls. Then use a flashing to "divert" the water from my building to the fence capping. To the right side I will have access to remove the fence panel to render it, neighbour is nice enough and he will provide me access to do that

iwillhtfu wrote: »

If you're going to build tight to the walls get the plastic cladding that way there's no maintenance required. You could essentially build the back and side walls more or less finished and slide them into place.

Was thinking on building the wall frame, adding the osb + cladding and lift out the wall in place but how do I handle the corner? Also would I need to do something at the bottom where the wall meets the floor frame or just overhand osb and cladding to pass below the floor frame?

listermint

When you say flashing ? You can't divert the water off your roof to he neighbors garden

yulasinio

It will be a flat roof with the gutter at the front of the building. The only water that will be on the boundary wall will be from my building wall. The existing fence wall is approx 2m high and my finish building will be 800mm above that so it shouldn't be that much water accumulated.

Sorry for not including roof details in my previous post.

mloc123

Some great detailed info in the videos here also for anyone that is looking to build a garden room this year

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChqWFbSX8STP_c8W0RVW1Xw

runawaybishop

mloc123 wrote: »

Some great detailed info in the videos here also for anyone that is looking to build a garden room this year

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChqWFbSX8STP_c8W0RVW1Xw

He's very good. Oak Garden Rooms and Ali Dymock are my go to places. Ali is more DIY but great explanations whereas oak are professional and high quality

dodzy

yulasinixo wrote: »

@dodzy that looks great. How close to the back wall the building is? Do you have the same finish on the back and sides?
I'm getting ideas for my shed/office and I would like to maximize the garden space as much as possible meaning that I'm trying to build close to boundary walls.

Thanks,
J

I left approx 600mm on the 3 sides, primarily for access and periodic inspection. I wrapped it fully in the PVC cladding to avoid maintenance. The overhang at the back keeps a dry area between the rear wall of the shed and the boundary wall of the property so I use this area for storage of lawnmower and other garden tools that are not afraid of the cold. Gives me more room in the ‘tools side’ of the build.

yulasinio

Thanks for your reply dodzy.

Currently waiting for a quote from a builder to see how much will it be to do the construction using concrete blocks. Based on that I'll decide on my next steps.
I'm planning on doing a separate room for storing stuff, that's why I'm trying to maximise my garden space

RobAMerc

Just spotted this thread is 1 year old today !

Here are some pics of how it turned out and looks now.

Been a lot of work done on the garden since this initial state, including an underground sump with pump and french drains across the garden.

Now all I need is the damn grass to grow properly !

Fine Cheers

Picked a good day for the photos. Looks great tucked away discreetly in the corner. How is it all working out - what are you using it for ? Any lessons learned to share ?

iwillhtfu

Are you sorry you didn't make it bigger yet?

It looks great, any issues at all with damp or anything you should've done differently now you've had time to think.

RobAMerc

It being used daily as my office. Its working out great! I had some issues with the wifi originally being a bit sketchy, but I put in a mesh system and it was solved.
Its more than big enough, internally close to 3.5x3.5, in fact I am looking for stuff to fill it.

If there are damp patches or leaks, I dont know of them !

If I could change anything, I'd put in a toilet ! :D

...Ghost...

RobAMerc wrote: »

It being used daily as my office. Its working out great! I had some issues with the wifi originally being a bit sketchy, but I put in a mesh system and it was solved.
Its more than big enough, internally close to 3.5x3.5, in fact I am looking for stuff to fill it.

If there are damp patches or leaks, I dont know of them !

If I could change anything, I'd put in a toilet ! :D

SaniFlo and a shower curtail. Sorted

dodzy

RobAMerc wrote: »

It being used daily as my office. Its working out great! I had some issues with the wifi originally being a bit sketchy, but I put in a mesh system and it was solved.
Its more than big enough, internally close to 3.5x3.5, in fact I am looking for stuff to fill it.

If there are damp patches or leaks, I dont know of them !

If I could change anything, I'd put in a toilet ! :D

Jesus Rob, that was a bloody quick year

It just reminded me of the video I put in post #321 above last year. My poor westie who did a few cameos in the vid left us after 16yrs shortly after :-(

punisher5112

Fit a urinal and a sink.... Sorted

iwillhtfu

punisher5112 wrote: »

Fit a urinal and a sink.... Sorted

or just fit a sink

punisher5112

iwillhtfu wrote: »

or just fit a sink

Well I won't lie, I used a sink for a few days the toilet was out of action, needed to fit new seal, was leaking everywhere, then I wasn't the only one using it. Wife's brother was over and a few friends, they copped on pretty quickly there was no need to go upstairs ;-)

Seve OB

Looks fab RobAMerc

I'm going to get cracking on mine soon.... will be back to ask you a load of questions

Seve OB

So I plan to build something similar to Rob & Dodzy. Mine won't be a garden room, but more of a very well built shed so I probably won't be specking it as good as you guys, but I still want to do it right. I am going to lay a concrete foundation as opposed to a timber one like you guys have. Was thinking of putting a course of bricks around the base to sit the timber frame on like Colin Furze did with his to raise it up (extra height will be good) and avoid any damp issues. I will be building approx 3M wide * 4M and probably going to go with a pitch roof of about 2.5 meters at the back rising to about 3 meters at the front.

I will start my own thread so as not to be hijacking this one but I wanted to throw a few questions at you guys as you are clearly well informed after your projects.

What timber did you guys use for framing the walls? I was thinking about going with 75mm*35mm but I'm not sure here though if I should be using 44mm? I think 100mm might be overkill or is it? I think I'm more concerned with making sure my walls will be strong enough to hold the roof up!

Would OSB3, 11mm be the best size or would you be going thicker/thinner? Same for walls and roof?

What nails did yiz use? I reckon this is a better bet than using screws? I don't have a nail gun but will get a decent hammer. I do have an impact driver though... maybe some things should be screwed?

I was planning to use shiplap timber to clad it. Will probably be the most expensive part of the build so I might look at what you used Dodzy. How do you find it now?

Haven't thought to much about the roof, I have used Felt shingles in the past, but they are expensive. Never heard of EPDM so will look into that as an option, or is that just something you put underneath your cladding?

oinkely

Seve OB wrote: »

So I plan to build something similar to Rob & Dodzy. Mine won't be a garden room, but more of a very well built shed so I probably won't be specking it as good as you guys, but I still want to do it right. I am going to lay a concrete foundation as opposed to a timber one like you guys have. Was thinking of putting a course of bricks around the base to sit the timber frame on like Colin Furze did with his to raise it up (extra height will be good) and avoid any damp issues. I will be building approx 3M wide * 4M and probably going to go with a pitch roof of about 2.5 meters at the back rising to about 3 meters at the front.

I will start my own thread so as not to be hijacking this one but I wanted to throw a few questions at you guys as you are clearly well informed after your projects.

What timber did you guys use for framing the walls? I was thinking about going with 75mm*35mm but I'm not sure here though if I should be using 44mm? I think 100mm might be overkill or is it? I think I'm more concerned with making sure my walls will be strong enough to hold the roof up!

Would OSB3, 11mm be the best size or would you be going thicker/thinner? Same for walls and roof?

What nails did yiz use? I reckon this is a better bet than using screws? I don't have a nail gun but will get a decent hammer. I do have an impact driver though... maybe some things should be screwed?

I was planning to use shiplap timber to clad it. Will probably be the most expensive part of the build so I might look at what you used Dodzy. How do you find it now?

Haven't thought to much about the roof, I have used Felt shingles in the past, but they are expensive. Never heard of EPDM so will look into that as an option, or is that just something you put underneath your cladding?

I recently completed a small bike shed in our tiny garden. It's not very big, but very well built (if i say so myself!). For cladding i used the pvc stuff used by some of the guys above - really easy to use and looks great, and zero maintenance. I was going to for for shiplap but as far as i remember the pvc was cheaper and more permanent. For the roof i used sedum - it's a green roof and i have to say, looking out at it from the kitchen is way better than the usual steel roof shed we have in the other part of our garden. That was a standard garden shed and when the time comes to replace it i will be building my own again and putting a green roof on it also.

Walls are framed in 4*2 and roof is 5*2 with t&g OSB on top (wanted to ensure it could support the weight of the green roof). Floor is 4*2 with 18mm t&g osb on top and walls are lined internally with the same t&g osb. Roof is wrapped in heavy builders plastic to keep the moisture out, before the fleece and substrate and sedum mat were laid on top. Walls outside wrapped in breathable membrane with the pvc siding installed directly over that.

Fine Cheers

Ya can't be telling us all that and not provide any photos :rolleyes:

oinkely

Fine Cheers wrote: »

Ya can't be telling us all that and not provide any photos :rolleyes:

ill try do that tomorrow.

Lumen

Seve OB wrote: »

What timber did you guys use for framing the walls? I was thinking about going with 75mm*35mm but I'm not sure here though if I should be using 44mm? I think 100mm might be overkill or is it? I think I'm more concerned with making sure my walls will be strong enough to hold the roof up!

Suggest you start your own thread, but my 2c...

If you want to use proper framing timber, CLS (e.g. from Glennon) comes in 89x38 and 140x38, and TR26 (for roof trusses) comes in 47 x 147

I used 147x47 because:

(a) I wanted wide studs (600mm centres) and a deeper wall in case I needed to fill it with thick insulation later, and if not it would be deep enough for shelving
(b) I could use the same timbers for studs and rafters.
(c) 47 is better than 38 when you're trying to through-fix to a stud. More room for error!

You can adjust the stud width if you want to make it stronger (e.g. 400mm centres), but TBH for a single storey garden room properly sheeted with OSB you'll have difficulty under building it. A wooden frame is incredibly strong.

Remember that from a planning perspective the size is measured internally, so deep walls are no harm (although you'll use a fraction more site space).

Seve OB

Lumen wrote: »

Suggest you start your own thread, but my 2c...

If you want to use proper framing timber, CLS (e.g. from Glennon) comes in 89x38 and 140x38, and TR26 (for roof trusses) comes in 47 x 147

I used 147x47 because:

(a) I wanted wide studs (600mm centres) and a deeper wall in case I needed to fill it with thick insulation later, and if not it would be deep enough for shelving
(b) I could use the same timbers for studs and rafters.
(c) 47 is better than 38 when you're trying to through-fix to a stud. More room for error!

You can adjust the stud width if you want to make it stronger (e.g. 400mm centres), but TBH for a single storey garden room properly sheeted with OSB you'll have difficulty under building it. A wooden frame is incredibly strong.

Remember that from a planning perspective the size is measured internally, so deep walls are no harm (although you'll use a fraction more site space).

ya, will do that in the next day or so.
is CLS any better/worse cheaper/expensive than treated timber which i was going to get

Lumen

Seve OB wrote: »

ya, will do that in the next day or so.
is CLS any better/worse cheaper/expensive than treated timber which i was going to get

I paid 378/m3 + 80 haulage + VAT for clean (untreated) TR26.

That 378/m3 was based on the unplaned dimension (150x50).

That works out at 3.81 per linear metre all in. That was in Aug 2018 though, so it could be a lot more now (there's currently a construction timber crisis due to logging permit problems).

Make sure you add on at least 10% for wastage.

Where does the time go? I'll be finished the build soon, I promise.

runawaybishop

Lumen wrote: »

Remember that from a planning perspective the size is measured internally, so deep walls are no harm (although you'll use a fraction more site space).

You sure about that? I thought it was internal as well but saw a recent post in the planning forum that said its external.

Lumen

runawaybishop wrote: »

You sure about that? I thought it was internal as well but saw a recent post in the planning forum that said its external.

The law says...

For class 1 exempted development "Where the house has not been extended previously, the floor area of any such extension shall not exceed 40 square metres."

For class 3 exempted development "The total area of such structures constructed, erected or placed within the curtilage of a house shall not, taken together with any other such structures previously constructed, erected or placed within the said curtilage, exceed 25 square metres.".

I reason that class 3 is imprecise because not all structures have a floor, but where they do, the floor area is measured.

Plus random legal site:

https://www.bellassociates.ie/services/exempted-planning-guidelines/

"The floor area limitation for exempted development is 25 square metres"