Machinery Photo/Discussion Thread II

blue5000

selectamatic wrote: »

Linglongs?

Bridgestone, VX.

Injuryprone

tanko wrote: »

If I get get around with one bag i'm happy but i know they hold that extra bit.
Would you say that they're worth the €700 extra over the bog standard half tonne Vicon copies?
I'd only be spreading about 10 tonne/year here.

I was coming from a vicon previously which served very well, so I didn't look much farther than it tbh. A cheaper vicon was the way I looked at it. Like you said, genuine vicon mechanically.

hopeso

blue5000 wrote: »

Bridgestone, VX.

They should be a good tyre! Bridgestone are generally considered to be as good, or even better than Michelin. Are they still competitively priced? They were selling them at a good price to get them established. I had only fitted new tyres a short time before they launched them. I’d have been very interested in them if I’d known in time. Keep us informed on how they perform....

Suckler

wrangler wrote: »

I wonder does any one sell the self loading minispreader in ireland. Isaw them in England, great idea for a small place.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvbItOYBJg4

Would you not burn more diesel just going back and forth? I know you said small place but even then you'd do a fair amount of tracking going back and forth. For similar money I'd say you'd get a reasonable side slinger or go back to the aul Krone Optimat. Not as easy filled though granted.

blue5000

hopeso wrote: »

They should be a good tyre! Bridgestone are generally considered to be as good, or even better than Michelin. Are they still competitively priced? They were selling them at a good price to get them established. I had only fitted new tyres a short time before they launched them. I’d have been very interested in them if I’d known in time. Keep us informed on how they perform....

Only €40 more than bkt and €140 more than firestone for the set. Will let you know when all the little numbers are gone off the lugs;) What did you fit to your tractor?

Dinzee Conlee

Suckler wrote: »

Would you not burn more diesel just going back and forth? I know you said small place but even then you'd do a fair amount of tracking going back and forth. For similar money I'd say you'd get a reasonable side slinger or go back to the aul Krone Optimat. Not as easy filled though granted.

I was looking at getting one of those mini muck spreaders, anyone have one?

I know you have to fill it by hand, but would have to do that anyways for some of our sheds...
But you could take it into fields that you couldn’t go into with a trailed job... we actually have an old JF spreader, but it’s a heavy prick of a thing to be pulling around and our ground is high so pulling it even on a summers day you’d mark the ground I’d say...

davidk1394

I had this machine yesterday ripping up maize stubble. It did a fine job. The little claas knew it was pulling it. Did a little over 10km/h up and down the field.

hopeso

blue5000 wrote: »

Only €40 more than bkt and €140 more than firestone for the set. Will let you know when all the little numbers are gone off the lugs;) What did you fit to your tractor?

I'd say you got good value at that! I went with Kleber....There was a cash back offer at the time which left them not much more than BKT. Can't remember how much more exactly, but it was certainly more than €40....

hopeso

davidk1394 wrote: »

I had this machine yesterday ripping up maize stubble. It did a fine job. The little claas knew it was pulling it. Did a little over 10km/h up and down the field.

No need for brakes with that yoke in the ground behind you.....

ep71

"restoring" a ford 2600 here, started stripping it down in around 2003, got engine rebuilt around 2010 and only getting it back together now. Have bought new wings and a few other bits, attempting to get paint on it and start putting it back together. Also bought a wood chipper and tried it out on the dexta at the weekend.

davidk1394

hopeso wrote: »

No need for brakes with that yoke in the ground behind you.....

Not at all. You'd burn some diesel with it. It was sitting at 28L/hour. I burnt 3/4 of a tank roughly 180litres over 14ac

enricoh

Anyone any handy ideas for removing the end of a hydraulic hose out of a valve block? It's on a cherry picker and access is limited to say the least!
There's a heap of hoses in the block ,16 iirc and it's in the middle of them. The full of the swaged end is left, no hose though.
I tried a vice grips and twisting it but no joy, ta

Reggie.

That's about 40 acres sowed in the last week

fastrac94

enricoh wrote: »

Anyone any handy ideas for removing the end of a hydraulic hose out of a valve block? It's on a cherry picker and access is limited to say the least!
There's a heap of hoses in the block ,16 iirc and it's in the middle of them. The full of the swaged end is left, no hose though.
I tried a vice grips and twisting it but no joy, ta

Crow's foot spanner? Could try tapping it open with hammer and thin chisel...but how do u tighten the new one???

enricoh

enricoh wrote: »

Anyone any handy ideas for removing the end of a hydraulic hose out of a valve block? It's on a cherry picker and access is limited to say the least!
There's a heap of hoses in the block ,16 iirc and it's in the middle of them. The full of the swaged end is left, no hose though.
I tried a vice grips and twisting it but no joy, ta

Pirtek



Agh no....as side above,a hammer and chiesel will open them,ive even retightened awkward hoses same way again

enricoh

If I'd a spare e300 I'd just get pirtek or the hose doctor!
I'll try hammer and chisel and pray to the gods!
I can put that end in first and twist the hose around, famous last words - but it should be handier. Thanks

fastrac94

enricoh wrote: »

If I'd a spare e300 I'd just get pirtek or the hose doctor!
I'll try hammer and chisel and pray to the gods!
I can put that end in first and twist the hose around, famous last words - but it should be handier. Thanks

Give us a picture in case der is anything we are missing...

longgonesilver

With the hose gone will a ring spanner of some form fit over the crimping.?

For putting it back, you could build up a stack of metal fittings to get the nut above the rest of the hoses. talk to the person fixing the hose he might have an extension.

blue5000

enricoh wrote: »

Anyone any handy ideas for removing the end of a hydraulic hose out of a valve block? It's on a cherry picker and access is limited to say the least!
There's a heap of hoses in the block ,16 iirc and it's in the middle of them. The full of the swaged end is left, no hose though.
I tried a vice grips and twisting it but no joy, ta

Any pics enricoh? PM them to me if you're having bother loading them. How old is the machine? Some pre-crimping hydraulics had left hand threads going on to the hose.

enricoh

blue5000 wrote: »

Any pics enricoh? PM them to me if you're having bother loading them. How old is the machine? Some pre-crimping hydraulics had left hand threads going on to the hose.

Cheers folks, I ended up taking off a couple of hoses and then I could get a chisel near it. Ex esb yoke- versalift mid 90s iirc. Whoever designed the valve block didn't pay much heed to the lad up a ladder trying to fix it!! Patience required, but I've plenty of time on my hands for once due to Corona.
Don't know how to do pictures due to pure laziness on my behalf! I'll get a hose made up tomorrow n post one of it working - hopefully!

rushvalley

ep71 wrote: »

"restoring" a ford 2600 here, started stripping it down in around 2003, got engine rebuilt around 2010 and only getting it back together now. Have bought new wings and a few other bits, attempting to get paint on it and start putting it back together. Also bought a wood chipper and tried it out on the dexta at the weekend.
]

How do you find the woodchipper? What's the biggest size branch it will take?

ep71

Pretty good so far, It's manual feed so you definitely need to stay at it pushing them in but it hasn't been in any way difficult to do, just takes a bit of time. 4" seems to be the max

funkey_monkey

Any of you lads got any novel ways of storing machinery to minimise space used?
Got some machinery here and with the weather we have over the winter it is hard on them. Was looking at putting them all in shed, and although most fit its not ideal. I can put some things in others - like fert sower inside tipping trailer and so on.
But was curious to know if any of youse had a bit more of a left field idea! the best thing would be to have a shed that was accessible along its length instead of at the ends, but I ain't for building a shed!

emaherx

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Any of you lads got any novel ways of storing machinery to minimise space used?
Got some machinery here and with the weather we have over the winter it is hard on them. Was looking at putting them all in shed, and although most fit its not ideal. I can put some things in others - like fert sower inside tipping trailer and so on.
But was curious to know if any of youse had a bit more of a left field idea! the best thing would be to have a shed that was accessible along its length instead of at the ends, but I ain't for building a shed!

We call it tractor Tetris here. We reverse baler and wrapper side by side here to end of shed it's just the width of the 2. Because wrapper is longer mower goes in next and fits neatly in front of baler between wrapper draw bar and the wall, then comes 2 haybobs one turned backwards and they fit into each other to take up less space. Topper goes in beside them with fertilizer spreader on top. Then sprayer and log splitter go in at the front. Hope that made sense, I'd show a picture only I've taken most of them out now to service in the hay shed.

I've seen YouTube videos of implements put on pallets for the winter and stacked on industrial shelving or mezzanines with a forklift. But they were bigger sheds than mine.

tractorporn

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Any of you lads got any novel ways of storing machinery to minimise space used?
Got some machinery here and with the weather we have over the winter it is hard on them. Was looking at putting them all in shed, and although most fit its not ideal. I can put some things in others - like fert sower inside tipping trailer and so on.
But was curious to know if any of youse had a bit more of a left field idea! the best thing would be to have a shed that was accessible along its length instead of at the ends, but I ain't for building a shed!

Is there space in the shed for racking and put the lighter stuff up on a second row?

funkey_monkey

There would be for smaller or lighter stuff, but we'd need to get some concrete based out in for racks.

How much roughly would heavy duty racking cost?

AckwelFoley

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Didn't know that! Can you uprate the coupling and if so how to you go about re-rating them?

Yeah, looking at them as tractor trailers in the price bracket are not great.

No, the maximum capacity coupling / overrun available is 3500kg. There are more factors involved than just the overrun capacity, each coupling is approved with the different brake type and size. Furthermore, once you go above 3500kg a you move to a different braking system which I believe is hydraulic and they dont require the same hitch overrun type.

Hitch/ overrun and brakes go hand in hand.

Also,, axle capacity isn't multiplied by a factor of equal proportion.

1800kg axle x 2 doesn't qualify you to carry 3600kg as you might expect and a third doesn't bring you to 4400kg

Again, a few reasons, but for example, with a small 750kg axle, if you had 3 of them, theres no way you would.be safe forn 2250kg

I know one company moved to 3 x 1800kg axles on a 250mm brake for a 3500kg capacity trailer as opposed to 3 x 1500kg axles on 200mm brake because although on paper it should be sufficient, in practice it wasn't. Uneven loads and uneven load distribution on the 3 axles would often see the front or rear axle fail

funkey_monkey

In ni, I've found out that if you are over 3.5 times it is classed as commercial and brings in a pile of different legislation.

So, swapping out hitch for a higher rated hitch won't work. Hence why a tri axle is rated the same as twin axle of shorter length.

Apparently a pile of folk have been caught out going to marts overloaded.

funkey_monkey

Leads on to need question. For an old trailer which we might do up or sell. Where would be the best place to get a second hand, braked axle that would carry 12.5/80-15.3 tyres?
Would like to put on 400/60-15.5 axle and tyres but that is not currently on it.

If the refurb is not feasible it will have to go down the road.

JOAT

Anyone on here have a samasz mower or know much about them?currently have a krone that has done us well and thinking of upgrading. Both samasz and Krone dealers close to home so parts and service are similar