The eBike thread

unkel

What kinda power does it use while you are transmitting?

unkel

unkel wrote: »

What kinda power does it use while you are transmitting?

Roughly 16 amps max on SSB for 100 Watts output on the Yaesu FT-891

20 amps peak but I don't really see more than 16 amps with voice on SSB, Or Single Side Band.

With the Xiegu G90 it uses about 4 amps and 8 amps peak. That's a really good little radio too.

unkel

Deleted User wrote: »

Roughly 16 amps max on SSB for 100 Watts output on the Yaesu FT-891

16A * 12V = 192W?

Or is that 100W output the transmitting power? I know nothing about ham radio but I have it in my head they only use a few watts of transmitting power. Or is your setup not quite fully legal or something?

unkel

unkel wrote: »

16A * 12V = 192W?

Or is that 100W output the transmitting power? I know nothing about ham radio but I have it in my head they only use a few watts of transmitting power. Or is your setup not quite fully legal or something?

Yep, 13 v x 16 amps for 100 watts PEP as they call it, PEP = Peak envelope power, that's power consumption of the rig for roughly 100 watts PEP.

MY setup is more than legal, I don't have an amplifier, mostly allowed 400 watts output at the Antenna in Ireland with the exception of 160 Meters which allows 10 Watts max, for some mad reason lol.

A really amazing Hobby, I was talking to a Guy in Canada with my 20 watt Xiegu G90 the a few weeks ago.

I made my first PSK31 Digital contact last week, that's basically SMS Via Radio, point to point, amazing.

flossbarry

Hi has any one got the eu radrunner love to know whats it like. ps any good on hills or to carry a passanger on. also has a trottle on for walk assist would that not be classed as a mpv under irish law

Found my old LiPo ebike battery.

66 volts, hot off the charger, 10 Ah

unkel

3 nominal 3.2V cells in series per pack and then all 6 packs in series for 3 * 3.7V * 6 = 66V hot off the charger?

It's sitting somewhere unused? What a waste!

unkel

unkel wrote: »

3 nominal 3.2V cells in series per pack and then all 6 packs in series for 3 * 3.7V * 6 = 66V hot off the charger?

It's sitting somewhere unused? What a waste!

No I abused it so much it wasn't worth keeping so I drilled holes in it and watched it burn lol, I had a lot of fun with it though.

LiPO : 4.15 volts per cell, not fully charging to 4.3 Volts , so 4.15 x 16S = 66.4 volts

Nominal is around 3.8 Volts per cell.

Discharged voltage is around 3.2 volts , bear in mind the voltage should not drop much below this while under load.

unkel

It doesn't look burnt to me

Or did you not find the battery, but found a picture of it?

Finally got my controller yesterday. Ordered it on 01/10/2019 :rolleyes:

You don't want to be in a hurry with some of this sh1t from China. Production date was 10/2019 so it wasn't even manufactured yet when I ordered it :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

unkel

unkel wrote: »

It doesn't look burnt to me

Or did you not find the battery, but found a picture of it?

Finally got my controller yesterday. Ordered it on 01/10/2019 :rolleyes:

You don't want to be in a hurry with some of this sh1t from China. Production date was 10/2019 so it wasn't even manufactured yet when I ordered it :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

No it was worthless so I destroyed it, wasn't giving me the power I needed.

Did you hook up the controller yet ?

unkel

Bike is still in bike shop having motor fitted!

unkel

BTW all my cables and connectors are different formats :rolleyes:

I don't mind changing the battery cables of the controller into XT60, that's standard on all my stuff

I have a problem though with connectors like the one for the hall sensor and the one for the throttle. I need to find very small pin connectors to solder or crimp to the individual wires for my throttle and the motor, and can then connect them to the controller. Where do I buy these pin connectors, you are probably familiar with them. I tried local remote control shop, and motor factors, but they didn't have them.



Also how did you handle the ignition cable from the controller, just connect that to the main battery positive lead?

Joe1919

http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2019-7h-j6qk

Would one of these cables work?

unkel

Yep, I have that one on order from eBay (a bit over €8 delivered), ordered nearly 3 weeks ago. Hopefully have it soon. That's why I didn't even mention the connection from the controller to the motor. Still leaves me with the issue that I need some pins for the hall sensor and the throttle.

unkel

unkel wrote: »

BTW all my cables and connectors are different formats :rolleyes:

I don't mind changing the battery cables of the controller into XT60, that's standard on all my stuff

I have a problem though with connectors like the one for the hall sensor and the one for the throttle. I need to find very small pin connectors to solder or crimp to the individual wires for my throttle and the motor, and can then connect them to the controller. Where do I buy these pin connectors, you are probably familiar with them. I tried local remote control shop, and motor factors, but they didn't have them.



Also how did you handle the ignition cable from the controller, just connect that to the main battery positive lead?

If it actually has a proper on off switch that would be great ?

John Hutton

Folks, would appreciate some advice.

I got an old Dawes Galaxy that I totally fixed up last year which I intended to use for some tours around ireland. Never got to do this mainly due to fitness issues, I'm toast after about 40 or 50 kms with panniers etc.

I'm thinking an ebike may be the answer here just for that extra bit of help with the hills on longer days. 100km would be the max I'd do.

Do you reckon it would be doable to convert the bike I have with a mid drive(this might be the best option?) and route the battery to the rear rack/panniers and pack enough power for at least 100km? I'd rather not strap anything to the frame of the bike.

I can forsee some issues with the bike is like to use, it's a vintage bike so compatibility might be an issue, for instance I'd probably have to cold set the frame for a rear hub motor, I have drop bars with cantilever breaks which I can't really swap for ones that cut out the motor. I think I might also be pushing it with the range I'm asking for. (Pedal assist range) Also, should I run out of power what is just pedaling like with a mid drive motor?

And then, if it ends up being very expensive would I just be better buying a new bike, but it's hard to pin down actual range.

Any advice?

unkel

If you're willing to have a heavy battery on your rear rack (at least 10kg, possibly more, depending on your weight, the speed required, etc.), then I can't see any problem in getting that 100km assisted range (you do half, the motor does half)

Battery won't be cheap though...

I think you're right about the mid drive, it would be the least invasive if hub motors would require you to make changes to the bike's frame

John Hutton

unkel wrote: »

If you're willing to have a heavy battery on your rear rack (at least 10kg, possibly more, depending on your weight, the speed required, etc.), then I can't see any problem in getting that 100km assisted range (you do half, the motor does half)

Battery won't be cheap though...

I think you're right about the mid drive, it would be the least invasive if hub motors would require you to make changes to the bike's frame

Thanks for the reply. Not too concerned about speed, 15 mph or so would do Grand, more distance than speed and I'm willing to do some work! Of course it would be nice to go faster and still get my distance....

Budget wise, 1k would be my absolute limit, any more than that and I'd rather just drop a few grand on a new bike

unkel

John Hutton wrote: »

Budget wise, 1k would be my absolute limit, any more than that and I'd rather just drop a few grand on a new bike

Mid motors are expensive. See this thread for some examples, about €450 shipped for a Bafang kit from a European warehouse. Batteries can be had cheaply enough, if you are willing to make some concessions. I have 4 scooter overstock batteries with built in BMS on the way from China, costing €25 each including shipping, which will give me a 700Wh pack. I'd say for your distance you probably need twice that.

Connect them all up with serial and parallel cables that can be had for just €1 each on eBay and you will have your solution for under €700 in total

If you ask someone to build you a dedicated 1.4kWh battery, you will probably break the budget. Mind new eBikes with a long range are very expensive too...

A mid drive motor isn't necessary unless climbing steep hills regularly and especially slow trails.

For most people an internally geared hub, for example , the Mac 8T motor is all most people would ever need.

A direct drive motor would be very difficult to pedal without motor power.

John Hutton

unkel wrote: »

Mid motors are expensive. See this thread for some examples, about €450 shipped for a Bafang kit from a European warehouse. Batteries can be had cheaply enough, if you are willing to make some concessions. I have 4 scooter overstock batteries with built in BMS on the way from China, costing €25 each including shipping, which will give me a 700Wh pack. I'd say for your distance you probably need twice that.

Connect them all up with serial and parallel cables that can be had for just €1 each on eBay and you will have your solution for under €700 in total

If you ask someone to build you a dedicated 1.4kWh battery, you will probably break the budget. Mind new eBikes with a long range are very expensive too...

Interesting. Might be asking too much with the range perhaps. What would be an average range one could get with an "off the shelf" battery that would fit my budget?

John Hutton

[Deleted User] wrote: »

A mid drive motor isn't necessary unless climbing steep hills regularly and especially slow trails.

For most people an internally geared hub, for example , the Mac 8T motor is all most people would ever need.

A direct drive motor would be very difficult to pedal without motor power.

The thinking with the mid drive is that I may be hauling a bit of a load, and tackling some hills. Also, with my bike, to fit a rear hub I would have to cold set the frame. This is a problem as I had issues before when doing this with the front and back wheels no longer being exactly in line. This was not much of an issue for a hack bike, but at speed with a motor I think it's asking for trouble. Also, with rear panniers etc as well it would place loads of weight at the back of the bike! And wouldn't I also get less range from a rear hub?

John Hutton

John Hutton wrote: »

The thinking with the mid drive is that I may be hauling a bit of a load, and tackling some hills. Also, with my bike, to fit a rear hub I would have to cold set the frame. This is a problem as I had issues before when doing this with the front and back wheels no longer being exactly in line.

A Proper hub will haul anything, a big direct drive motor will be just fine but it will be hungry for power but it will last forever once it doesn't get very hot.

There are some modified scooter hubs that fit bicycles just fine.

John Hutton wrote: »

This was not much of an issue for a hack bike, but at speed with a motor I think it's asking for trouble. Also, with rear panniers etc as well it would place loads of weight at the back of the bike! And wouldn't I also get less range from a rear hub?

Older Chinese hubs and some stuff bought on ebay were not perfectly centred but good higher quality hubs will fit just fine, my old mac 8T was a perfect fit in the rear.

The Bafang BBSHD has, if I remember correctly , about 110 nm of torque, your Bosch mid drive has around 75 Nm and a Brose hub, probably the best in the business , made in Berlin, will have also around 110 Nm and of course those bikes will cost 3-5 + K but they are extremely well build with very neat setups.

The Bafang will also need power, it's rated around 25 amps or 1 Kw - 1.2 Kw, these are off the top of my head figures but not far off.

A Hub motor in general will need a lot more power to climb a steep hill with a heavy load but perhaps not a huge amount more if it's a proper motor wired for torque and just add higher voltage for the top speed you want.

The chain drive can use it's torque in any gear a hub can't and this is the limitation, when they get bogged down they become very inefficient.

A 12T Mac will probably do around 35 Km/h at 48 volts but should be a good climber.

If I remember correctly you said you'd need around 100 Km range ? if there's lots of hills and you're carrying a lot of weight then you could be looking at needing a 52 volt 20 Ah battery and I reckon that might be tight, that's if you can do a lot of peddling yourself, that's depending on the about of hills, the height etc.

The BBSHD would be a neater setup and Hub motors with power need torque arms.

When choosing a battery, make sure to choose one that is rated for the motor kit you get both peak and continuous current.

Low Energy Eng

So I finally installed the pas & brake sensors. I was using thumb throttle so didn't think it was necessary. The thumb throttle applies 100% power. I had gotten used to it but I must say after installing the pas sensor I wish I did it sooner. It's nice being able to throttle the power with the controller. And the motor automatically kicking in is nice.
I also tidied the cabling and installed a child seat. I'll be using it regularly in January, the only thing left to install is a kick stand.
Really enjoying this ebike business.

loughside

Hi John, a lot depends on your terrain, is it hilly or flatish? I ask that because you `might` get away with a hub drive.
My first ebike was a rear 250w hub drive, nice enough 50% of the time but was caught out when it came to steep hills, just wasn`t man enough. I`m in Co. Down so i had to have something better than a 250w hub.
Next two ebikes were mid-drive conversions, BBS02 and later an HD conversion..> see https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=111628912&postcount=572 these will take you anywhere, the BBSHD in particular is like comparing a 1.1 fiesta to a six cylinder diesel merc, torquey and extremely quiet.
Battery will be your most important purchase, i have a 17.5ah 48v Panasonic cell pack, i`d say it`s good for 80 miles or so depending on a little effort from yourself. Guys on here seem capable on building their own but if you`re not confident i would strongly recommend this guy -> Jimmy at https://ebikebatteries.co.uk/ and https://youtu.be/O2lrSw5zli8
i would not take a chance and buy from china, if it goes faulty you will be in a world of pain getting a battery back to china for replacement, just not worth it.
Nowadays you should get a dependable bike conversion, motor plus battery for well under your budget.

Joe1919

John, one thing to watch out for (if thinking about a front geared hub) is that with older bikes, the forks taper in a fair bit towards the crown, and front hub may not fit. Also older bikes used 8mm front axles and dropouts are small.

John Hutton

loughside wrote: »

Hi John, a lot depends on your terrain, is it hilly or flatish? I ask that because you `might` get away with a hub drive.
My first ebike was a rear 250w hub drive, nice enough 50% of the time but was caught out when it came to steep hills, just wasn`t man enough. I`m in Co. Down so i had to have something better than a 250w hub.
Next two ebikes were mid-drive conversions, BBS02 and later an HD conversion..> see https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=111628912&postcount=572 these will take you anywhere, the BBSHD in particular is like comparing a 1.1 fiesta to a six cylinder diesel merc, torquey and extremely quiet.
Battery will be your most important purchase, i have a 17.5ah 48v Panasonic cell pack, i`d say it`s good for 80 miles or so depending on a little effort from yourself. Guys on here seem capable on building their own but if you`re not confident i would strongly recommend this guy -> Jimmy at https://ebikebatteries.co.uk/ and https://youtu.be/O2lrSw5zli8
i would not take a chance and buy from china, if it goes faulty you will be in a world of pain getting a battery back to china for replacement, just not worth it.
Nowadays you should get a dependable bike conversion, motor plus battery for well under your budget.

It's north Louth so hilly enough! Would you reckon a bafang 500w would be enough or should I stump for the 750? Thanks for those links, particularly re the battery, I'd say the 17.5ah would be enough, 100kms would be the max I'd do, more likely to be about 80kms. What are the bafangs like to pedal with the motor off?

John Hutton

Joe1919 wrote: »

John, one thing to watch out for (if thinking about a front geared hub) is that with older bikes, the forks taper in a fair bit towards the crown, and front hub may not fit. Also older bikes used 8mm front axles and dropouts are small.

Cheers, that is the case with my bike so I think I can rule out hub motors

unkel

John Hutton wrote: »

I'd say the 17.5ah would be enough, 100kms would be the max I'd do

At 48V that would be about 800Wh. I doubt that is anywhere near enough to do 100km, unless you do most of the pedalling yourself, don't carry much luggage and are very light yourself

I'm getting 700Wh and I hope it would do me for about 25km on throttle alone at about 30km/h (not hilly)

John Hutton

unkel wrote: »

At 48V that would be about 800Wh. I doubt that is anywhere near enough to do 100km, unless you do most of the pedalling yourself, don't carry much luggage and are very light yourself

I'm getting 700Wh and I hope it would do me for about 25km on throttle alone at about 30km/h (not hilly)

Loughside says he gets 80miles, this is confusing.