unkel wrote: » What kinda power does it use while you are transmitting?
Deleted User wrote: » Roughly 16 amps max on SSB for 100 Watts output on the Yaesu FT-891
unkel wrote: » 16A * 12V = 192W? Or is that 100W output the transmitting power? I know nothing about ham radio but I have it in my head they only use a few watts of transmitting power. Or is your setup not quite fully legal or something?
unkel wrote: » 3 nominal 3.2V cells in series per pack and then all 6 packs in series for 3 * 3.7V * 6 = 66V hot off the charger? It's sitting somewhere unused? What a waste!
unkel wrote: » It doesn't look burnt to me Or did you not find the battery, but found a picture of it? Finally got my controller yesterday. Ordered it on 01/10/2019 :rolleyes: You don't want to be in a hurry with some of this sh1t from China. Production date was 10/2019 so it wasn't even manufactured yet when I ordered it :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
unkel wrote: » BTW all my cables and connectors are different formats :rolleyes: I don't mind changing the battery cables of the controller into XT60, that's standard on all my stuff I have a problem though with connectors like the one for the hall sensor and the one for the throttle. I need to find very small pin connectors to solder or crimp to the individual wires for my throttle and the motor, and can then connect them to the controller. Where do I buy these pin connectors, you are probably familiar with them. I tried local remote control shop, and motor factors, but they didn't have them. Also how did you handle the ignition cable from the controller, just connect that to the main battery positive lead?
unkel wrote: » If you're willing to have a heavy battery on your rear rack (at least 10kg, possibly more, depending on your weight, the speed required, etc.), then I can't see any problem in getting that 100km assisted range (you do half, the motor does half) Battery won't be cheap though... I think you're right about the mid drive, it would be the least invasive if hub motors would require you to make changes to the bike's frame
John Hutton wrote: » Budget wise, 1k would be my absolute limit, any more than that and I'd rather just drop a few grand on a new bike
unkel wrote: » Mid motors are expensive. See this thread for some examples, about €450 shipped for a Bafang kit from a European warehouse. Batteries can be had cheaply enough, if you are willing to make some concessions. I have 4 scooter overstock batteries with built in BMS on the way from China, costing €25 each including shipping, which will give me a 700Wh pack. I'd say for your distance you probably need twice that. Connect them all up with serial and parallel cables that can be had for just €1 each on eBay and you will have your solution for under €700 in total If you ask someone to build you a dedicated 1.4kWh battery, you will probably break the budget. Mind new eBikes with a long range are very expensive too...
[Deleted User] wrote: » A mid drive motor isn't necessary unless climbing steep hills regularly and especially slow trails. For most people an internally geared hub, for example , the Mac 8T motor is all most people would ever need. A direct drive motor would be very difficult to pedal without motor power.
John Hutton wrote: » The thinking with the mid drive is that I may be hauling a bit of a load, and tackling some hills. Also, with my bike, to fit a rear hub I would have to cold set the frame. This is a problem as I had issues before when doing this with the front and back wheels no longer being exactly in line.
John Hutton wrote: » This was not much of an issue for a hack bike, but at speed with a motor I think it's asking for trouble. Also, with rear panniers etc as well it would place loads of weight at the back of the bike! And wouldn't I also get less range from a rear hub?
loughside wrote: » Hi John, a lot depends on your terrain, is it hilly or flatish? I ask that because you `might` get away with a hub drive. My first ebike was a rear 250w hub drive, nice enough 50% of the time but was caught out when it came to steep hills, just wasn`t man enough. I`m in Co. Down so i had to have something better than a 250w hub. Next two ebikes were mid-drive conversions, BBS02 and later an HD conversion..> see https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=111628912&postcount=572 these will take you anywhere, the BBSHD in particular is like comparing a 1.1 fiesta to a six cylinder diesel merc, torquey and extremely quiet. Battery will be your most important purchase, i have a 17.5ah 48v Panasonic cell pack, i`d say it`s good for 80 miles or so depending on a little effort from yourself. Guys on here seem capable on building their own but if you`re not confident i would strongly recommend this guy -> Jimmy at https://ebikebatteries.co.uk/ and https://youtu.be/O2lrSw5zli8 i would not take a chance and buy from china, if it goes faulty you will be in a world of pain getting a battery back to china for replacement, just not worth it. Nowadays you should get a dependable bike conversion, motor plus battery for well under your budget.
Joe1919 wrote: » John, one thing to watch out for (if thinking about a front geared hub) is that with older bikes, the forks taper in a fair bit towards the crown, and front hub may not fit. Also older bikes used 8mm front axles and dropouts are small.
John Hutton wrote: » I'd say the 17.5ah would be enough, 100kms would be the max I'd do
unkel wrote: » At 48V that would be about 800Wh. I doubt that is anywhere near enough to do 100km, unless you do most of the pedalling yourself, don't carry much luggage and are very light yourself I'm getting 700Wh and I hope it would do me for about 25km on throttle alone at about 30km/h (not hilly)
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