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Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 6,811 ✭✭✭Alkers


    Thanks, any benefit to a factory fit one?

    Considering one of these now, any recommendations for a buying guide?

    All the models on DD seem to be 12kwh despite variations in year and engine size - is that correct?

    What are people's thoughts on the value of these now, and what year would you be going for if buying now?



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,509 ✭✭✭John_Rambo


    My interior cab heating decided to break down.

    Today. Coldest day in ages... Windows fogged up etc..

    Anyone had similar and found its a simple fix or it's something stupid I'm doing?



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,751 ✭✭✭Grumpypants


    I had one, if you plan to use the battery a lot (charge every day, if not 3-4 times a day) it doesn't last long. Mine served me well and the size is huge but ultimately I jumped to full EV after 4 years with it as the battery had dropped to 60% and I didn't need that size anymore (kids grew out of buggies).



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,811 ✭✭✭Alkers


    How did yo measure the battery as being at 60%? That's a lot of degradation



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,751 ✭✭✭Grumpypants


    You can get a little dongle and an app that shows you all the readings. I was charging every day 3-4 times so a heavy user. The more it dropped the more I needed to charge.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,199 ✭✭✭Miscreant


    Isn't the BMS on these very aggressive and deliberately reduces the usable battery too much to compensate for incorrectly calculated degradation? I thought I read somewhere in here that there is a reset procedure to regain lost capacity.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,751 ✭✭✭Grumpypants


    Yeah they built in an artificial degradation. It seems to be based on charge cycles so the more you charge the worse it gets. But also charging does bring it down.


    I brought it in for the official reset and got back over 70% but a few weeks later it was tumbling down again.


    Some people have done some weird reset via the 12 volt but I've never gotten it to work. But it gives you back 100% but it comes down fast again.

    That's on the older 2015 model. I think 2016 got a bigger battery so might be less impacted.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,891 ✭✭✭kanuseeme


    Yes the BMS would drop .01 Ah every 10 days or so, I done the 12 v reset, you would have to turn on all the 12 v systems to drain the battery, when you started to get errors, you disconnect the 12 v and plug in the charger, then connect the 12 v and listen for clicks, disconnect 12v after hearing 2, leave it charge for 5 minutes and connect the 12 v again, the BMS was reset, back up to 40 Ah, few minutes later its down to 38Ah its original capacity, I would reset it twice a year.

    You could see the reset in the display , the battery indicator would show a different charge level, say a full battery display would show 80% after the reset.

    I would always leave it a couple of days before charging to 100% it would drop quick enough to its actually capacity,

    2018 was when the bigger battery and 2.4 l engine came out.

    I am strongly considering the outlander again in the new year, the other choices are 2019 prius phev or a BMW, 2,3 or 5 series all depends on price at auction.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,754 ✭✭✭Buffman


    Anything from 2019 on should be the larger 13.8 battery but always check yourself as some 'dealers' don't have a clue what they're selling.

    The towbars are all the same really, AFAIK factory fit wasn't an option, if ordered from new it was fitted by the dealers.

    My advice is to familiarise yourself with the different specs available, remote/timed climate control to preheat the car, heated seats, heated steering wheel etc. are all very nice to have in winter.

    Ye, you don't even need to run down the 12v battery, just disconnect it while charging. Besides, you'd risk degrading it if doing that a lot.

    This is the way I do it:


    FYI, if you move to a 'smart' meter electricity plan, you CAN'T move back to a non-smart plan.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,751 ✭✭✭Grumpypants


    All those methods have been reported to cause damage to the system. Defo do at your own risk.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,698 ✭✭✭StupidLikeAFox


    Not sure if you got sorted but there is a common enough problem where a filter going into the heat exchange unit gets blocked and prevents hot air getting through. It's an easy enough fix if you know what you're doing or for a mechanic.

    https://carhoodsecrects.com/mitsubishi-outlander-phev-heating-problem-with-ptc-hater/



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,509 ✭✭✭John_Rambo


    Thanks, I got this sorted, didn't need a new pump, just flushed out the coolants system. Westbrook motors did it for a lot less than I expected, gave me a courtesy car too.

    I have another question. I got a Zappi charger installed for free as part of another deal. But the nozzle doesn't fit either of my cars ports. I'm happy using the granny plug but am interested in using the Zappi.

    Should I buy a converter? If so, which one and what port does it go in, the left or right? Thanks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,891 ✭✭✭kanuseeme


    I once picked up a type one tethered cable on eBay for 10 pound, swap it for your existing one, or get an adapter, again on eBay for 15 pounds bubble wrap and all, sign up for address pal, 10 euro in fees + vat on the purchase.



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,509 ✭✭✭John_Rambo




  • Registered Users Posts: 3,285 ✭✭✭Dohvolle


    Just had a major shock with the Outlander, in for a service, and the ABS/EV System maintenance/ASC System maintenance etc lights had been showing intermittently late last year, but full time since before christmas.

    Turns out it's a rear wheel bearing and speed sensor need replacing. €1000 or so fitted.


    Jaysus.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,891 ✭✭✭kanuseeme




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,558 ✭✭✭Bogwoppit


    I had it done last year for 550, a friend had his done for 700 about 6 months ago.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,285 ✭✭✭Dohvolle


    Labour costs gone nuts.



  • Registered Users Posts: 120 ✭✭CurranBun


    Apologies, posted in wrong group

    Post edited by CurranBun on


  • Registered Users Posts: 120 ✭✭CurranBun


    Hey Gang,

    Someone might have a solution for this for us- We bought a 2016 Mitsubishi Outlander Phev. It is a Japanese import (so manual is in Japanese, however i have google translated everything).

    We cant use the bluetooth yet for calls etc, as you need to register it with the App.

    We have downlowded the Remote Ctrl Mitsubishi App, and followed the instructions to register our phone to the car.

    The car SSID appears on the phone to connect, but then requires the Wi-FI password - which we do not have (have searched everywhere in the manuals and documents) . Any ideas on where we can obtain this password or do we really need to bring it to a Mitsubishi dealer?

    Thanks in advance.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,815 ✭✭✭stimpson


    It’s been a while since I had an outlander, but there is a way to reset the paired devices. See here: https://www.myoutlanderphev.com/threads/password-pin-reset.3694/



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,754 ✭✭✭Buffman


    I've never seen the Bluetooth locked to the app on any I've had, just PIN protected. All European so the Jap spec might be different. On any I've got the SSID and password were on a little card about the size of a credit card somewhere in the manual or stuck to the manual folder.

    Try the PIN reset posted above and see if that clears the Bluetooth.

    FYI, if you move to a 'smart' meter electricity plan, you CAN'T move back to a non-smart plan.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,303 ✭✭✭CardinalJ


    Ive a 212 outlander from new. Tyres that came with it are Yokohama and I think its time to change the front ones. From googling looks like they were made for electric cars?

    PHEV outlander hardly needs a tyre for an electric car does it?

    Can get plenty of alternatives in the right size, but just cant figure out if they should be specifically for an electric vehicle?

    Any ideas?



  • Registered Users Posts: 642 ✭✭✭kaahooters


    tbh, i dont think they do, ive crossclimates on mine and theyre fine.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,754 ✭✭✭Buffman


    No, doesn't matter as long as they're the correct size/rating. Currenlty I'm on Hankook but have also had Toyo, Kumho and Sumitomo fitted on previous ones.

    Against my advice a colleague went for Triangle Advantex SUV for €100 a corner all in on theirs, but after having a 'spirited' test drive in the wet I can't say I'd fault them for the price.

    FYI, if you move to a 'smart' meter electricity plan, you CAN'T move back to a non-smart plan.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,303 ✭✭✭CardinalJ


    Ok, thanks.

    Hankook popped up a few times when ringing around



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