Tubeless road - it actually works

Gerry

Well finally went tubeless with schwalbe pro one 28s on dt swiss 411 rims. Tyres easy to get on no harder than previous gp4000. Bit of a palaver with the first wheel as it's an asymmetric rim, had to reshape the washer that goes next to the rim to the profile of the rim. Then it turned out I had not gotten the tape to seal around the valve and nicked it too much when fitting the valve. So removed it and went again, 1 wrap of tape. valve sealed but tyre would not. Frustrated I eventually added another wrap of tape. Tyre seated and straight up with track pump.
Now did not have enough tape for front, so I used a run of gaffer tape as well.. tyre went straight up.
Interestingly the Schwalbe 28 measures 27mm wide, the 25c 4000 measured 28. The rims are 19mm internal.
Will see how we go but should be comfortable. Bike is mostly for commuting but I've a longer charity spin coming up

kaisersose77

Sorry if asking a stupid question

I have the following bike

https://www.cube.eu/en/2016/road-race/attain/cube-attain-sl-blacknflashred-2016/

I would like to go tubeless. Did I need to get new wheels and tubeless tyres (if so can anyone recommend something that is not going to break the bank, mainly use bike to commute to work and do longer cycles every so often) or do I just need rim tape for the existing wheels and tubeless tyres?

manafana

if commutting then these would do job

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/mavic-aksium-elite-ust-wheelset-2019/rp-prod177992

this is their entry level wheel set, comes with the tyres, Tyres are bit more pricey but you switch for hutinchson brand, biggest issue in tubeless right now is with diff compliance between tyre brands.

magicbastarder

have a look at the wheels - if they're Aksium UST, they're tubeless compatible, but it'd almost certainly have mentioned the UST (universal system tubeless) on the link you supplied if they were.

manafana

magicbastarder wrote: »

have a look at the wheels - if they're Aksium UST, they're tubeless compatible, but it'd almost certainly have mentioned the UST (universal system tubeless) on the link you supplied if they were.

if its a 2016 model they won't be UST, the retailer might trade them out for UST for you.

Taxuser1

First spin on tubeless and on a new bike. Got 10km in and heard a rear hissing. Rode on hoping there wasn’t anything amiss but the rear was feeling softer and eventually pulled in. Sealant sizzling out so I waited and then 3 or 4 minutes later pumped the tire. No joy, the air was escaping. Not a good start. Sealant everywhere. No repair kit or worm. No tube with valve that was over 40mm so a taxi was called. Longer slit on outside but small on inner tire but I just replaced the tyre, new sealant, bought a few repair kits and bought longer valve tubes. A very expensive start to my tubeless and confidence is completely knocked now

secman

Taxuser1 wrote: »

First spin on tubeless and on a new bike. Got 10km in and heard a rear hissing. Rode on hoping there wasn’t anything amiss but the rear was feeling softer and eventually pulled in. Sealant sizzling out so I waited and then 3 or 4 minutes later pumped the tire. No joy, the air was escaping. Not a good start. Sealant everywhere. No repair kit or worm. No tube with valve that was over 40mm so a taxi was called. Longer slit on outside but small on inner tire but I just replaced the tyre, new sealant, bought a few repair kits and bought longer valve tubes. A very expensive start to my tubeless and confidence is completely knocked now

Hope you turned your Garmin or Wahoo off in the taxi

Taxuser1

secman wrote: »

Hope you turned your Garmin or Wahoo off in the taxi

Oops

harringtonp

Taxuser1 wrote: »

First spin on tubeless and on a new bike. Got 10km in and heard a rear hissing. Rode on hoping there wasn’t anything amiss but the rear was feeling softer and eventually pulled in. Sealant sizzling out so I waited and then 3 or 4 minutes later pumped the tire. No joy, the air was escaping. Not a good start. Sealant everywhere. No repair kit or worm. No tube with valve that was over 40mm so a taxi was called. Longer slit on outside but small on inner tire but I just replaced the tyre, new sealant, bought a few repair kits and bought longer valve tubes. A very expensive start to my tubeless and confidence is completely knocked now

Unfortunate. In your view was the slit small enough that the sealant should have worked ?

I've got a slit once which hadn't a hope of sealing. I've also had one puncture hole that I am aware of which did seal. But since I switched to tubeless I've had 2 full racing seasons (13-15 races each year) puncture free. Before I was always getting them in races. This may be purely down to the elimination of pinch flats (potholes usually don't get called in races) but either way I'm happy

Taxuser1

harringtonp wrote: »

Unfortunate. In your view was the slit small enough that the sealant should have worked ?

I've got a slit once which hadn't a hope of sealing. I've also had one puncture hole that I am aware of which did seal. But since I switched to tubeless I've had 2 full racing seasons (13-15 races each year) puncture free. Before I was always getting them in races. This may be purely down to the elimination of pinch flats (potholes usually don't get called in races) but either way I'm happy

Possibly unlucky and went to the LBS and they said the same, possibly too big a slit on the outside but the inside slit should have sealed. maybe because the bike was sitting in the shop for a while the sealant needed topping up?

Anyway, reduced the tyre pressure hugely this morning, no issues in horrible conditions but the ride was more comfortable - maybe reduced pressure helps.

looking at tyre pressures generally last night and was amazed that advice was to run as low as 65/70 PSI front and back for my weight/bike weight and tyre size? I just did not feel comfortable at those numbers so the PSI is slightly above them but I did feel a noticeably smoother rolling.

CantGetNoSleep

Taxuser1 wrote: »

First spin on tubeless and on a new bike. Got 10km in and heard a rear hissing. Rode on hoping there wasn’t anything amiss but the rear was feeling softer and eventually pulled in. Sealant sizzling out so I waited and then 3 or 4 minutes later pumped the tire. No joy, the air was escaping. Not a good start. Sealant everywhere. No repair kit or worm. No tube with valve that was over 40mm so a taxi was called. Longer slit on outside but small on inner tire but I just replaced the tyre, new sealant, bought a few repair kits and bought longer valve tubes. A very expensive start to my tubeless and confidence is completely knocked now

This happened to me once too after rolling over broken glass at low speed that I didn't see although only 3km from home. Adding more sealant wouldn't solve it, and I was finding once I got above 60 psi the sealant would fail. Tried using one of those rubber worms but to no avail. In the end I had to patch the inside of the tire which wasn't the easiest as you need to clean the inside of the tire to do so then hold the patch in place until the glue dries - didn't remove the tire entirely though.

Not sure how I would fix a similar hole on a ride in the future though. Possibly a tire boot outside the tire. I've never gotten the hang of those tubeless repair kits.

who_ru

Taxuser1 wrote: »

Possibly unlucky and went to the LBS and they said the same, possibly too big a slit on the outside but the inside slit should have sealed. maybe because the bike was sitting in the shop for a while the sealant needed topping up?

Anyway, reduced the tyre pressure hugely this morning, no issues in horrible conditions but the ride was more comfortable - maybe reduced pressure helps.

looking at tyre pressures generally last night and was amazed that advice was to run as low as 65/70 PSI front and back for my weight/bike weight and tyre size? I just did not feel comfortable at those numbers so the PSI is slightly above them but I did feel a noticeably smoother rolling.

personally i think 65/70 is just too low, it would impact speed to much for me, i tend to have 100 front and back. i got a cut in a rear tire on my first ever spin on tubeless and the rear tire failed completely, luckily i wasn't too far from home but like you i didn't have a great first experience. but since then no issues, (1500km approx). for me the biggest hassle is getting the tire on the rim in the first place. i have had many an hour effing and blinding in the kitchen trying to get it on. local bike mechanic says he always adds sealant first, then inflates.

anyway let us know what you do - ultimately you can always put a tube in if you have to. i carry one.

G1032

I have Mavic tubeless (Yksion pro UST tires)
Noticed a bubble on the rear tire before I went out today. Didn't think much of it and figured it had developed on the surface and wouldn't matter if it burst. Oh how wrong was I
2.5 hours into my ride today and it burst. Sealant just p!ssed out everywhere. I had a tube with me so pooped that in and it was grand but there's a nasty gash in the tire where the bubble burst.
Such a day for a puncture too. I was soaked wet within 30 minutes of starting out. Velotoze leaked after about 40. So 2.5 hours in, the last thing I need was a puncture.

Not sure how I feel about tubeless now. Still have to bring spare tubes with me as today proved. I guess they'll still seal with a thorn puncture etc.

manafana

G1032 wrote: »

I have Mavic tubeless (Yksion pro UST tires)
Noticed a bubble on the rear tire before I went out today. Didn't think much of it and figured it had developed on the surface and wouldn't matter if it burst. Oh how wrong was I
2.5 hours into my ride today and it burst. Sealant just p!ssed out everywhere. I had a tube with me so pooped that in and it was grand but there's a nasty gash in the tire where the bubble burst.
Such a day for a puncture too. I was soaked wet within 30 minutes of starting out. Velotoze leaked after about 40. So 2.5 hours in, the last thing I need was a puncture.

Not sure how I feel about tubeless now. Still have to bring spare tubes with me as today proved. I guess they'll still seal with a thorn puncture etc.

i found with mine, a nick would open from stones which seemed ruin the tyres, if u see a seal my advice is to pump it up night before to check it,

harringtonp

If there is a structural tire problem you're in trouble regardless of whether or not you are running tubeless.

manafana

harringtonp wrote: »

If there is a structural tire problem you're in trouble regardless of whether or not you are running tubeless.

Yeah for sure, but issue is tubeless tyre ranges are still improving, so what cut up my mavic would not have cut up my conti.

But on clean roads without chippings etc i found tyres did good, and the tech works, its the 2nd/3rd seals.

My two incidents with tech, 1. loose valve that lost air, this was more user error as with most things, 2, Had big seal after hitting some stoney patch, opened up a seal, it sealed but lost good bit pressure but i was not far from cafe with pump so pumped it up their.

For the guy who threw tube in, how did you find getting the tyre back on? from new i had get a little help to pop it on, do tubeless levers help?

andy69

manafana wrote: »

...do tubeless levers help?

Oh wow! I didn't realise there were tubeless-specific Tyre levers! Just googled it there now and saw them and why they are needed. I've been riding around with my normal levers in the saddlebag - lucky I haven't had to call on them. Will pick up a set today I think.... Ye learn something new every day ðŸ‘

not yet

Lads, Any idea where I would get the stans sealant, of if someone could recommend another sealant available in Dublin.

Cheers.

G1032

manafana wrote: »

For the guy who threw tube in, how did you find getting the tyre back on? from new i had get a little help to pop it on, do tubeless levers help?

I just had ordinary €3 Park Tool levers. Never knew there was such a thing as tubeless levers. Got the tire almost all the way on but used a lever to pop the last section on. No issues with it.

manafana

G1032 wrote: »

I just had ordinary €3 Park Tool levers. Never knew there was such a thing as tubeless levers. Got the tire almost all the way on but used a lever to pop the last section on. No issues with it.

yeah their is tubelss type levers as they are bit easier on the tyre which needs keep its shape

not yet wrote: »

Lads, Any idea where I would get the stans sealant, of if someone could recommend another sealant available in Dublin.

Cheers.

i ordered Muc off sealant which had good reviews before, otherwise the mavic sealant is decent and shops will always have it

andy69

not yet wrote: »

Lads, Any idea where I would get the stans sealant, of if someone could recommend another sealant available in Dublin.

Cheers.

I got a bottle of it in Cyclesuperstore. They had several types in stock (for road, for MTB, and I think there was another type there too). I just asked them which is best for my road bike and just took whatever they handed me )
Got myself the syringe thing and the valve core remover and even some plugs...was a real life "shut up and take my money" sort of moment!

not yet

andy69 wrote: »

I got a bottle of it in Cyclesuperstore. They had several types in stock (for road, for MTB, and I think there was another type there too). I just asked them which is best for my road bike and just took whatever they handed me )
Got myself the syringe thing and the valve core remover and even some plugs...was a real life "shut up and take my money" sort of moment!

Ha Ha, cheers for that. I'll head up there tomorrow. Was it easy enough to put it in..

G1032

not yet wrote: »

Ha Ha, cheers for that. I'll head up there tomorrow. Was it easy enough to put it in..

It's dead easy. If you want you can just take the tire off the rim on one side or partly off one side and pour in the sealant........ You really don't need to add it in through the valve if you don't want to/don't have core remover.

not yet

G1032 wrote: »

It's dead easy. If you want you can just take the tire off the rim on one side or partly off one side and pour in the sealant........ You really don't need to add it in through the valve if you don't want to/don't have core remover.

Thanks for that..

andy69

G1032 wrote: »

It's dead easy. If you want you can just take the tire off the rim on one side or partly off one side and pour in the sealant........ You really don't need to add it in through the valve if you don't want to/don't have core remover.

yeah that's true. In my case I had already seated both tyres just to see if I could actually do it and get them to inflate.
Didn't wanna 'break' any seals or whatever so that's why I got the valve core and injector - filling them that way was handy enough but in my case I did need a second pair of hands because the Stans Injector and my Mavic valves didn't connect....the threads didn't match up so I had to hold the injector firmly on the valve while my wife put the sealant into the injector and inject it while I was holding it in place to make sure none spilled out. Only takes seconds to do.

One lesson I did learn, was that don't just take the injector straight off after putting in the sealant. Tilt the wheel left or right a little bit and then slowly remove the plunger. That way you avoid the sealant naturally getting 'ejected' back out of the tyre after you pushed it in - I just took the injector away immediately and all my sealant burst back out of the valve and all over the floor :eek:
- was a simple thing...certainly won't happen again

harringtonp

Ejectors and plungers ?

On my setup it can be poured without difficulty through any nozzle that is small enough

andy69

harringtonp wrote: »

Ejectors and plungers ?

On my setup it can be poured without difficulty through any nozzle that is small enough

Hehe!
Yep this yoke....
Stans NoTubes The Injector https://g.co/kgs/LtwwJE

not yet

One more thing lads,

If your not taking the tyre off and putting it through the valve do you not need to clean out old sealant.

andy69

not yet wrote: »

One more thing lads,

If your not taking the tyre off and putting it through the valve do you not need to clean out old sealant.

I asked the guys in CSS that...
in the case of the stuff I bought (the Stans road sealant....and maybe it's the same for all, but I'm not sure), they said you don't have to empty out the old stuff because it basically just evaporates after a few months. So all I have to do is 'shake' the wheel and listen for the liquid inside. When I can't hear it, that means I just need to pour in a new dose of 60ml sealant. No need to unmount tyres or clean/wipe out the old stuff.
Bike stored in my house, so they reckoned maybe after 3 or 4 months check it.

not yet

andy69 wrote: »

I asked the guys in CSS that...
in the case of the stuff I bought (the Stans road sealant....and maybe it's the same for all, but I'm not sure), they said you don't have to empty out the old stuff because it basically just evaporates after a few months. So all I have to do is 'shake' the wheel and listen for the liquid inside. When I can't hear it, that means I just need to pour in a new dose of 60ml sealant. No need to unmount tyres or clean/wipe out the old stuff.
Bike stored in my house, so they reckoned maybe after 3 or 4 months check it.

Fair play, Jesus I got the bike a year ago and only now am I putting sealant in :eek::eek:

In saying that I've probably only down 1k (lazy fcker)