Tubeless road - it actually works

harringtonp

Tubeless valve
Valve core remover

CantGetNoSleep

harringtonp wrote: »

Tubeless valve
Valve core remover

Thanks - have recently changed rims so that reminds me that I need to make sure my spare tubeless valve fits.

Also ordered a tubolite tube which gives me much more space in a tiny seat bag

https://www.tubolito.com/en/product/s-tubo-road-700c/

who_ru

hi - has anybody got specific recommendations for road bike rim tape? internal width of rim is 17mm.

Rogue-Trooper

So, picked up a pair of Mavic Kysrium USTs and Schwalbe Pro Ones and decided to have a go at setting them up myself (as I have let my LBS look after my tubeless set up on my TCR up to now).

Was actually surprisingly easy and straightforward. Inserting the tubeless valves was obviously the easiest bit which was followed by the hardest part - mounting the tyres on the rim. It wasn't impossible and did require the use of some tyre levers but each one only took a couple of minutes and no swearing which was a relief!

Attached a standard track pump and pumped them up to 100psi - both beads seated instantly with no drama. Have heard so many horror stories of beads not seating properly and people abandoning the job that this was the bit I was dreading most! Anyway, let out the air, removed the valve cores and added 30mls of Stans No Tubes via their syringe. The syringe makes it mess and drama free. Would like to have tried Stans Race Sealant but that has to be added via the tyre, not the valve core and, well, life's too short to be trying to get the tyre off and on every time I need to top up!:p Rolled them around, pumped them back up and spun them around a bit on both sides to make sure the sealant was dispersed fully.

Boom. Job done. Simples.

Delighted I have added another thing to my limited bike maintenance skill-set!:cool:

Took them for a spin this morning and everything running perfectly. I wouldn't like to be trying to get the tyre off at the side of the road but, as I've mentioned on this thread previously, I only carry a Dynaplug Racer and a Topeak Race Rocket when I'm out so will never be trying to fit a tube road-side anyway (broomwagon or taxi is my back-up!!).

Interestingly, there wasn't much of a weight saving between the stock Giant PR2 wheels & Gavia tyres and the Ksyriums & Pro Ones (46g on the front and 259g on the back), not that it would make a significant difference to the bulk I'm hauling on the bike anyway but some might find that info useful!


TLDR: Mere mortals can successfully set up tubeless Mavic UST wheels without dying, cursing, breaking nails or giving up on cycling.

harringtonp

Nice stuff. Impression I get is that the harder it is to fit a tyre, the easier it is to seat for inflation. Pro Ones always go on easy on my rims (which is why I carry a tube) but seating requires a little work.

manafana

harringtonp wrote: »

Nice stuff. Impression I get is that the harder it is to fit a tyre, the easier it is to seat for inflation. Pro Ones always go on easy on my rims (which is why I carry a tube) but seating requires a little work.

its all tolerances really, the mavic branded tyres come on not too hard, and always seat.

who_ru

i have a set of mavic ksyrium disc brake wheels that were delivered after buying from Mantel - tyres were already on the wheels when they arrived. i put the sealant in and off i went. they wheels, which are aluminum, roll very nicely and i like them. however i noticed that the rear tyre was losing pressure after being inflated (max 87psi), pressure drop was quick and noticeable. i inspected the tyre, couldn't see anything wrong with it (i've probably done approx 200km on them). turns out the pressure was being lost through the valve core which wasn't quite tight enough. i deflated the tyre completely, removed and reinstalled the valve core, inflated to 85psi. came back 24hrs later and no pressure drop.

harringtonp

Yes most difficulties I have had have been valve related. If you're having problems seating, try tightening valve nut and valve core (A LITTLE) with pliers.

mackeminexile

I would advise against using CO2 with sealant as it can solidify the sealant which is obviously not a good thing!

68 lost souls

mackeminexile wrote: »

I would advise against using CO2 with sealant as it can solidify the sealant which is obviously not a good thing!

That depends on the sealant. Mucoff sealant states CO2 friendly

Leroy42

Wouldn't most CO2 canisters hold too much for the normal tubeless tyre?

And since tubeless can run at much lower pressures, then pumping them up using a pump wouldn't be as big a deal as usual.

At least that is my understanding of it.

who_ru

harringtonp wrote: »

Yes most difficulties I have had have been valve related. If you're having problems seating, try tightening valve nut and valve core (A LITTLE) with pliers.

good tip thanks - one thing i find is that when inflated to 80-85psi the tyre can still look a little 'flat' when on the road. i get comments to the same effect when out with the club group ride, most ride clinchers at 120psi.

CantGetNoSleep

Can anyone recommend a tubeless pump? I need a new track pump anyway & I'm in the process of moving to tubeless on all my bikes / wheels that I keep at home. So far my two sets of tubeless came pre-installed but I'll need to change at least one of them soon, first set has 2000km, got a puncture on another set within 200km, and I've a set of wheels lying in the cupboard which are still clincher.

Planet X have one on special for 49GBP I see but wondering if there is anything that comes recommended?

TheAnalyst_

Question for the experts or anyone who knows.

I want to get this tyre but not in a tubeless setup. I want to run it with a normal tube that came with my bike.
Is this possible? I'm struggling to find answers.
https://www.specializedconceptstore.co.uk/product/13348/2018-roubaix-pro-2bliss-ready/

harringtonp

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Can anyone recommend a tubeless pump? I need a new track pump anyway & I'm in the process of moving to tubeless on all my bikes / wheels that I keep at home. So far my two sets of tubeless came pre-installed but I'll need to change at least one of them soon, first set has 2000km, got a puncture on another set within 200km, and I've a set of wheels lying in the cupboard which are still clincher.

Planet X have one on special for 49GBP I see but wondering if there is anything that comes recommended?

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/lifeline-airblast-tubeless-tyre-track-pump/rp-prod155451

is a great pump for both blasting and normal inflation. It doesn't chew or bend valves. You'll probably get it cheaper, I got it on offer from CRC at 43 euro

harringtonp

Question on syringes for removing and adding sealant. Can you get suitable ones in a pharmacy ? Something that both removes and injects through a valve core ? Or in general hardware stores ?

Also do guys remove old sealant to see much they have, put the old sealant back in and then top it up to 30mm or whatever the desired amount is ?

This is what I am looking to do, got a (rare) puncture recently and a load of it spewed out before sealing. Want to make sure I have enough but not more than I need if you get my drift.

harringtonp

Tried 2 pharmacies, a hardware store and a euro shop and nothing.

Basically I'm looking for something to take old sealant out through a valve core.

If anyone bought anything online, could they post the link here.

Thanks

dahat

What ml syringe are you after?

I can get 5ml ,10ml or 20ml but as I don't run tubeless I'm not sure any would work.

Rogue-Trooper

harringtonp wrote: »

Tried 2 pharmacies, a hardware store and a euro shop and nothing.

Basically I'm looking for something to take old sealant out through a valve core.

If anyone bought anything online, could they post the link here.

Thanks

I use the Stans one. Haven't tried taking the sealant back out but it works great putting it in. Doesn't work with Stans Race Sealant though - you have to pop the tyre off the rim for that (annoyingly).

harringtonp

I have ever a 10 ml syringe which is fine for putting it in. But it is the extraction I'm looking to solve. That stans looks interesting but I don't think it would be long enough. I have 50mm wheels and use a 60 mm valve.

Leroy42

As an aside, why are you looking to take the sealant out and why does it have to be by the valve?

harringtonp

Looking for an easy way of regularly ensuring there is 30 ml of sealant. Taking tyre of is hassle and messy. Popping core out, removing existing sealant and putting in 30 ml (including existing) is something that can be done in 5 mins and can be part of regular maintenance.

And you cycle in the knowledge you have enough to seal a small puncture but don't have 100 ml of liquid sloshing about.

MediaMan

harringtonp wrote: »

Looking for an easy way of regularly ensuring there is 30 ml of sealant. Taking tyre of is hassle and messy. Popping core out, removing existing sealant and putting in 30 ml (including existing) is something that can be done in 5 mins and can be part of regular maintenance.

And you cycle in the knowledge you have enough to seal a small puncture but don't have 100 ml of liquid sloshing about.

I use MilkIt valves and syringes. Expensive but does the job well.

Agent Smyth

Rogue-Trooper wrote: »

Doesn't work with Stans Race Sealant though - you have to pop the tyre off the rim for that (annoyingly).

I use the both with no problems but I don't use the hose pipe
Just place the syringe on the valve hold a bit of tissue paper around the joint and push the liquid in, its not perfect but saves unhooking the tyre

Rogue-Trooper

harringtonp wrote: »

I have ever a 10 ml syringe which is fine for putting it in. But it is the extraction I'm looking to solve. That stans looks interesting but I don't think it would be long enough. I have 50mm wheels and use a 60 mm valve.

The flexible hose screws onto the valve creating a seal so it might be enough to suck it out? Might give it a go when I get a minute and see if it works!

Rogue-Trooper

Rogue-Trooper wrote: »

The flexible hose screws onto the valve creating a seal so it might be enough to suck it out? Might give it a go when I get a minute and see if it works!

Whadda you know, it worked!:pac:


Deflated the tyre, put the valve at 6 o'clock, took out the valve core, screwed the empty syringe on to the valve and pushed the wheel down (squashing the tyre down if that makes sense?) as I pulled on the syringe (yes, you kinda need 3 hands). I needed 2 goes but it seemed to remove nearly all of the sealant (about 30mls).



Boom!:)



This was on a PR2 wheel with stock Gavia tyres btw. Didn't try it on the Ksyrium & Pro One combo but I assume it would work as well.

who_ru

i don't see the point of any of this, sealant will dry out over time, i top up by 30ml every few months. when installing new tires for the first time i'll add 60ml per tire. when i have a wheel off i give it a shake, usually i'll hear the sealant sloshing around, if i don't i'll top up.

harringtonp

Perhaps you've a good memory for these things. I could top up 3 times in 5 months or equally leave it for 5 months and think I'm doing it regularly.

Its like with tyres and chains, I don't have to remember or care when they were last changed... I can see the wear on tyres and measure it on chains. And unlike bottom brackets and headsets which gradually get rougher, you're only likely to know about no sealant when you puncture and it doesn't seal.

Rogue-Trooper

who_ru wrote: »

i don't see the point of any of this

Would be handy to remove the sealant if changing tyres - save on the mess

harringtonp

Dynaplug racer just arrived. They say put tool in until it is against the thread. I do wonder if you do that what is there to stop the plug just falling through.

Don't suppose anyone has had opportunity to use one on a road tire ?