Home Generator

my3cents

2 Wheels Good wrote: »

Just thinking of tidying up where we run the generator, we have it set up in a small outside boiler room. Would a bathroom type air vent like this from Woodies be enough so you could close the door and leave it run away or would I need to give it more ventilation?

No way would I risk doing that. Either you use the genny outside or a shed with just a roof or make up your own exhaust/silencer that allows you to vent the exhaust directly outside.

Examples http://www.ebay.com/bhp/generator-exhaust

2011

2 Wheels Good wrote: »

Just thinking of tidying up where we run the generator, we have it set up in a small outside boiler room. Would a bathroom type air vent like this from Woodies be enough so you could close the door and leave it run away or would I need to give it more ventilation?

I think that looks like it will not provide anything like the ventilation you need. Carbon monoxide is odorless, invisible and lethal!!
Don’t take any chances.

knipex

2 Wheels Good wrote: »

Just thinking of tidying up where we run the generator, we have it set up in a small outside boiler room. Would a bathroom type air vent like this from Woodies be enough so you could close the door and leave it run away or would I need to give it more ventilation?

Is this boiler house a standalone detached building away from the house or does it share a wall \ roof etc with the main house ?

2 Wheels Good

knipex wrote: »

Is this boiler house a standalone detached building away from the house or does it share a wall \ roof etc with the main house ?

It's detached, it's an extension to the pump house

my3cents

What I have done in the past is to use flexible metal pipe attached directly to home made fitting that replaces the generator exhaust and then put a second hand motor bike exhaust box on the end of the flexible pipe and stuck it out through a hole in a wall (initially just hung it out an open window). However even with that system I would't work in the room with the generator except to start and stop it.

2 Wheels Good

my3cents wrote: »

What I have done in the past is to use flexible metal pipe attached directly to home made fitting that replaces the generator exhaust and then put a second hand motor bike exhaust box on the end of the flexible pipe and stuck it out through a hole in a wall (initially just hung it out an open window). However even with that system I would't work in the room with the generator except to start and stop it.

Yeah, wouldn't be hanging around, just for refueling, starting and stopping it. Its just to keep the heat down and a flow of air for it.

2011

2 Wheels Good wrote: »

Yeah, wouldn't be hanging around, just for refueling, starting and stopping it. Its just to keep the heat down and a flow of air for it.

So perhaps you would be ok but you have to consider maybe someone else may wander in, such as a child. They could be overcome by fumes. Carbon monoxide kills a lot more people than you would think.

Bruthal

Yes any enclosed space, no matter how it seems no one will go into it, is asking for trouble if filled with CO.

Bigus

Apart from the exhaust, what about intake , the generator needs plenty of fresh air to breathe to operate , enclosed fumes will smother it , the boiler and yourself.

2011

Bigus wrote: »

Apart from the exhaust, what about intake , the generator needs plenty of fresh air to breathe to operate , enclosed fumes will smother it , the boiler and yourself.

A couple of vents and it will suck the air in.

Bigus

2011 wrote: »

A couple of vents and it will suck the air in.

No point in sucking/recirculating exhaust fumes, for either the generator or the boilers intake , will effect the efficiency of both drastically. Fumes need to exhausted properly and independently of ventilation.

2011

Bigus wrote: »

No point in sucking/recirculating exhaust fumes, for either the generator or the boilers intake , will effect the efficiency of both drastically. Fumes need to exhausted properly and independently of ventilation.

So put the intake vents on the opposite wall to the exhaust.

Simples

amber2

Not too sure if this has been asked before but how much roughly would it cost to have a change over switch installed in the house, thinking of buying a generator to run circulating pump for heating.

ted1

amber2 wrote: »

Not too sure if this has been asked before but how much roughly would it cost to have a change over switch installed in the house, thinking of buying a generator to run circulating pump for heating.

I persume you’ll run boiler controls too

50 -90 Euro will get you a small UPS thst will keep you going for a few hours

https://www.lifewire.com/best-uninterrupted-power-supplies-4142625

In the unlikely event thst you are out for more than few hours you could charge it from an inverter in your car.

Cerco

http://www.apc.com/ie/en/

Best to buy a ups here or the UK to ensure the input voltage is compatible with our supply.

2011

amber2 wrote: »

Not too sure if this has been asked before but how much roughly would it cost to have a change over switch installed in the house, thinking of buying a generator to run circulating pump for heating.

That’s kind of like asking “how much is a car?”
There are a lot of variables that can impact on the price. If it is straight forward it could be as little as €500 if not it could be substantially more.

My recommendation would be to install an arrangement that would work for a generator that could supply the entire installation. This is unlikely to cost much extra. This will work with smaller generators and in the event that you buy a larger genny no further changes will be required.

amber2

Got electrician to take a look today he quoted €500 where I can connect a 3 phase 8kva generator and run lights etc in the event of electricity going out. Just wanted a ball park figure so I would know where I was going. Appreciate the replies thanks.

2011

amber2 wrote: »

Got electrician to take a look today he quoted €500 where I can connect a 3 phase 8kva generator and run lights etc in the event of electricity going out. Just wanted a ball park figure so I would know where I was going. Appreciate the replies thanks.

Glad you got sorted.

Generally 3 phase generators would be larger than 8 kVA, I suspect that this is a single phase unit. However 8 kVA is a good sized genny.

coylemj

ted1 wrote: »

I persume you’ll run boiler controls too

50 -90 Euro will get you a small UPS thst will keep you going for a few hours

https://www.lifewire.com/best-uninterrupted-power-supplies-4142625

In the unlikely event thst you are out for more than few hours you could charge it from an inverter in your car.

UPS devices for home/office are not designed for that purpose, they have an array of sockets which are intended for PCs, monitors, routers and printers. A UPS is intended to be permanently connected inline between your mains supply and the devices you want to protect from a sudden power loss. The electrical feed to your boiler and pump doesn't involve sockets so a UPS would be completely useless.

ted1

coylemj wrote: »

UPS devices for home/office are not designed for that purpose, they have an array of sockets which are intended for PCs, monitors, routers and printers. A UPS is intended to be permanently connected inline between your mains supply and the devices you want to protect from a sudden power loss. The electrical feed to your boiler and pump doesn't involve sockets so a UPS would be completely useless.

It wouldn’t be to hard to wire it in

foxy farmer

2011 wrote: »

Glad you got sorted.

Generally 3 phase generators would be larger than 8 kVA, I suspect that this is a single phase unit. However 8 kVA is a good sized genny.

Once it's not one of those spurious ones that can be bought v cheap. 6.5hp to drive 8.5kw. That should go well

8kVA UPS?

How many minutes runtime didja want?

ted1

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

8kVA UPS?

How many minutes runtime didja want?

A circulation pump load is very low.

30-60Watts

That was a good upsell.

I rather battery inverters to UPS.
Lower self-consumption more efficient.

Fancy ones can start generators when the battery is low.

thos

amber2 wrote: »

Got electrician to take a look today he quoted €500 where I can connect a 3 phase 8kva generator and run lights etc in the event of electricity going out. Just wanted a ball park figure so I would know where I was going. Appreciate the replies thanks.

Can you say a little bit more about what the €500 included?

amber2

thos wrote: »

Can you say a little bit more about what the €500 included?

I have no idea really tbh some sort of change over switch that changes the power source from mains to the genny and a plug in point for the generator, currently looking at a Loncin 8kva from Dermot Casey.

Edit its to run a circulating pump for a solid fuel stove so no controls really and lights, might be pushing it to try & run the tv as well.

Cerco

With 8KVA you will have plenty of spare capacity to include your tv, with lights and circulation pump.

Kraus and Naimer make the best changeover cam switches. Is it a three-phase genset if it only has a single phase output or is it three phase out?

It's rare that 6kVA isn't enough to meet most people's needs.

Pushing it to run a tv too? I'd expect it to run about ~2% duty cycle for your described requirements. Sadly that's quite normal behaviour.

It'll be cokey & inefficient if you don't load it. I'd fit 32A switchgear, a modest inverter charger and the smallest honda or lister genset possible.
Then I'd look at solar.

thos

What's the best advice for location of a generator, or distance from house? I'm seeing lots of US guidance about 15feet+ away from the house to keep carbon monoxide levels down, and also to keep noise down. I'm sure too far would also lead to losses also?

Talking about a 6kva generator here. I've got an attached garage (where ESB mains comes in), so had originally thought of putting it beside the garage, on the basis that this is further from the house itself from a noise perspective (and ease of hook up if switch was near mains). Problem being it would be a bit in the way at that side of the garage, round the back of the garage is close to back bedrooms, and also the HRV intake is on the roof above, so not a good idea. Other option is 20metres down the garden, which is a gate into our backfield, and I've got a container for lawnmower storage etc, so would I get much loss on a run like this? More expensive from running cabling I'm guessing too.

2011

thos wrote: »

What's the best advice for location of a generator, or distance from house? I'm seeing lots of US guidance about 15feet+ away from the house to keep carbon monoxide levels down, and also to keep noise down.

This would depend on a lot of factors such as wind direction (I’m assuming it is outside) and the proximity of vents on the house. However you raise an important point that I think many overlook, carbon monoxide inhalation can be fatal.

I'm sure too far would also lead to losses also?

This depends on two factors only, the resistance of the lead (in ohms) and the magnitude of the current (amps).

The losses in the lead (watts) is equal to the current squared multiplied by the resistance of the lead. In this case the resistance would be the resistance of the live conductor added to the resistance of the neutral contractor.

I wouldn’t be too worried about these losses if I were you you, they will cost you very little. A large generator used for a protracted period and I would be more concerned.