the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

MyDarkArts

Any suggestions how to remove spinning chainring bolts?


They're the type that screw directly into the spider so no access on t'other side.

dahat

Recommend me a suitable grease suitable for bolts etc around general maintenance.

Thanks!

Tony04

MyDarkArts wrote: »

Any suggestions how to remove spinning chainring bolts?


They're the type that screw directly into the spider so no access on t'other side.

Youll have to remove your cranks if it doesnt use bolts

Tony04

dahat wrote: »

Recommend me a suitable grease suitable for bolts etc around general maintenance.

Thanks!

Any grease is better than nothing for most stuff I use the park standard stuff my lbs as its convenient to get.

If your near any marine supplies you can get marine grease pretty cheap or if you know a car mechanic I'd imagine you might be able to get yourself some grease off them.

Although while grease prevents corrosion a medium strength threadlocker is ideal for bolts as it prevents them rattling lose.

Be careful some greases mighnt be suited for carbon fiber or rubber(mtb forks)

And carbon and alloy surfaces need special greases

CramCycle

MyDarkArts wrote: »

Any suggestions how to remove spinning chainring bolts?


They're the type that screw directly into the spider so no access on t'other side.

Are they threaded then? Might have to drill them out then. You could try a needle nose pliers down the center, wedging it open and pulling as it spins in case you catch any remaining thread but if its spinning freely I would be doubtful.

If you remove the other bolts, is there any play, could you pop it out?

swarlb

Was looking at a YouTube video of a guy comparing a new (2020) bike to one from 2010. Apart from referring to the 2010 bike as being 'vintage' there was not a vast difference between the bikes apart from brakes (discs v calipers) and tyres. The 2020 bike having slightly wider tyres.
At what stage did tyres begin to get 'fatter'.... In my day (which going by the YouTube video would be classed as 'pre' prehistoric, 19mm was considered the norm. I'm probably certain there is a whole generation that never rode a 'tub'.

loyatemu

swarlb wrote: »

Was looking at a YouTube video of a guy comparing a new (2020) bike to one from 2010. Apart from referring to the 2010 bike as being 'vintage' there was not a vast difference between the bikes apart from brakes (discs v calipers) and tyres. The 2020 bike having slightly wider tyres.
At what stage did tyres begin to get 'fatter'.... In my day (which going by the YouTube video would be classed as 'pre' prehistoric, 19mm was considered the norm. I'm probably certain there is a whole generation that never rode a 'tub'.

my bike's from 2010 and 23mm were the standard then, with thicker tyres still considered "slower"

magicbastarder

i recently sold a bike which had a frame dating from 2010 (i think - it was built with that frame in 2010 but i think the frame was reduced because it was knocking round the shop for a year or two).
i tried sticking a 25 on the front and the wheel wouldn't fit in the fork.

gaffmaster

At some point in the past five years, scientists (funded by the cycling industry) discovered that softer tyres absorbed more vertical movement of the bike, helping prevent virbrationary fatigue to the rider. They also ensure a more consistant contact patch with the road - a tyre bouncing in the air is less efficient at driving forward.

And wider tyres mated to wider rims made the overall aerofoil shape of the rim more aerodynamic.

To your average cyclist - these things don't matter very much. But the comfort benefits of a slightly wider and softer tyre can be felt by anyone.

swarlb

gaffmaster wrote: »

At some point in the past five years, scientists (funded by the cycling industry) discovered that softer tyres absorbed more vertical movement of the bike, helping prevent virbrationary fatigue to the rider. They also ensure a more consistant contact patch with the road - a tyre bouncing in the air is less efficient at driving forward.

And wider tyres mated to wider rims made the overall aerofoil shape of the rim more aerodynamic.

To your average cyclist - these things don't matter very much. But the comfort benefits of a slightly wider and softer tyre can be felt by anyone.

It's the 'average' cyclist that sales are aimed at... so if the consensus is 'wide' than that's what they'll buy.
I'd imagine Professionals will use what pays them the most, in terms of 'wage' or 'win'.

camz09

Hi! So I've had my folding bike for about 6 years now and have never really had a problem with it. I used it mostly during the summer/spring about twice a week. It's a Dahon Vitesse 20inch folding bike. I bought it from Eurocycles in Long Mile Road. Thing is, I've never had it serviced and honestly, it's been in storage for about a year now. My problem is the front wheel needs repair. It's only now I've realised it's broken and flat ( my dad borrowed it and tinkered with the thing). The tube basically broke off/is outside the main wheel. I checked and it doesn't seem to have any puncture on it afaik. I thought I could fix it myself but I'm afraid to make it worse. Any ideas , do I need special tools to do it (that is inserting the tube back and inflating the tire)? I saw you need some kind of tire wedge which I don't have. Personally I think I might be better off getting it serviced and see what the problem is? Would also want to know what to expect in terms of cost for such a thing? Appreciate any help/advice.

I'll attach an image link of the tire

https://ibb.co/8XrZWdk
https://ibb.co/B2XtrS2

tomasrojo

It looks as if you have to inflate the tube slightly, tuck it back inside the tyre, deflate the tube, use tyre levers (or maybe your fingers if you're strong) to push the tyre back into position on the rim of the wheel, and then inflate the tube fully (4 or 5 bar if you have a pressure gauge, or until the tyre feels hard when you squeeze it between your fingers).

But since it's a folding bike, it would be easy to bring it to a shop and let them do it. They might not charge you at all, if the tube doesn't need replacing.

Type 17

camz09 wrote: »

Hi! So I've had my folding bike for about 6 years now and have never really had a problem with it. I used it mostly during the summer/spring about twice a week. It's a Dahon Vitesse 20inch folding bike. I bought it from Eurocycles in Long Mile Road. Thing is, I've never had it serviced and honestly, it's been in storage for about a year now. My problem is the front wheel needs repair. It's only now I've realised it's broken and flat ( my dad borrowed it and tinkered with the thing). The tube basically broke off/is outside the main wheel. I checked and it doesn't seem to have any puncture on it afaik. I thought I could fix it myself but I'm afraid to make it worse. Any ideas , do I need special tools to do it (that is inserting the tube back and inflating the tire)? I saw you need some kind of tire wedge which I don't have. Personally I think I might be better off getting it serviced and see what the problem is? Would also want to know what to expect in terms of cost for such a thing? Appreciate any help/advice.

I'll attach an image link of the tire


https://ibb.co/8XrZWdk
https://ibb.co/B2XtrS2

Simple issue - a tyre left un-pumped for over 6 months or so will likely be completely flat (but the tube will likely be fine, unless damaged separately), and if you wheel the bike along, the tyre/tube can come off the rim of the wheel.
Pay a visit to your local bike shop, and they'll slip it back together for you. If they're too busy and you want to do it yourself, pump the tube up a bitwhere it is (outside the tyre) and leave it a few hours (this is to check that it holds air and didn't get damaged whilst outside the tyre). If it's good, find a YouTube vid about fixing a puncture and follow along from the bit where they're inserting the tube back into the tyre and getting the tyre back onto the rim, etc.

El Tarangu

I'm planning on going cyclo-camping around either the Netherlands or France this summer.

Have the bike - a nice trek SL alpha.

Of course, the only problem with the roadbike is that there are no eyelets or anything for the pannier - would this thing be any use and, if not, would someone be able to recommend a good one for a road bike?

https://www.grandado.com/products/zwarte-fiets-fiets-quick-release-bagage-zadelpen-pannier-carrier-rear-rack-fender

(Might be in Dutch, sorry, but seems to clamp on to the seat post and the drop outs)

Already own a set of pannier bags, so looking for solutions more on this configuration than a seat post bag, but open to any suggestions - thanks

El T.

tomasrojo

I think you can use p-clips to attach a standard rack to a frame with no eyelets?

https://www.bicyclestore.com.au/pannier-rack-p-clips.html

El Tarangu

tomasrojo wrote: »

I think you can use p-clips to attach a standard rack to a frame with no eyelets?

https://www.bicyclestore.com.au/pannier-rack-p-clips.html

I never knew of the existence of such items, that really opens up the possibilites for which panniers I can buy - thanks a mil.

swarlb

El Tarangu wrote: »

I never knew of the existence of such items, that really opens up the possibilites for which panniers I can buy - thanks a mil.

Ye have to think 'sideways' sometimes to get a result. Go into your local motorfactors and you'll probably find something similar, or barring that your local hardware shop. They are not the preserve of 'bicycles'.....

dahat

I'll be putting new chainrings on later, I've watched 3 videos so looks straightforward from those.

What could go wrong????

crosstownk

dahat wrote: »

I'll be putting new chainrings on later, I've watched 3 videos so looks straightforward from those.

What could go wrong????

Knuckles.

crosstownk

I recently purchased a pair of Zonda 2 way wheels. Initially, I had planned on fitting tubes and regular clinchers but now I think I'll go tubeless.

What are people's opinions on which sealant is best? Or does it even matter?

Educate me, please.

dahat

crosstownk wrote: »

Knuckles.

Thankfully all went well, no lost skin & everything seems though a few efforts tomorrow will tell all.

El Tarangu

Hello,

Thanks for all of your answers to date, really useful. I have yet another question:

I bought a bike recently, 2nd hand, and the chain keeps jumping out from the jockey wheel on the rear derailleur.

Now, this suggests that the jockey wheels are worn out, or that maybe the RD hanger is broken. Is it possible to guess from the first two links what the issue might be?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/n1zjFVBAq9ahK8c16

https://photos.app.goo.gl/oL5wG94scNrofjm7A

I thought it might be that the chain was too long - does this seem to be case? (in smallest cog/smallest chainring)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WJ3LwnwriaQAyhy29

Thanks,

E.

Ruth211

how do I replace a derailed?

triggermortis

swarlb wrote: »

Ye have to think 'sideways' sometimes to get a result. Go into your local motorfactors and you'll probably find something similar, or barring that your local hardware shop. They are not the preserve of 'bicycles'.....

A better deal here...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubber-Lined-Zinc-Plated-Metal-P-Clips-for-Wire-Cable-Assorted-Box-45-Pieces/121341149539?hash=item1c407f0163:g:dhYAAOxyyFhTcmDr

magicbastarder

Ruth211 wrote: »

how do I replace a derailed?

front or rear? if you're not used to bike maintenance, probably best to bring it to a biek shop to do so.
what's the reason for replacement?

grogi

Ruth211 wrote: »

how do I replace a derailed?

0. Use your shifter to put the chain on smallest ring at the derailleur you're replacing (front or rear)
1. Take pictures how the chain goes through the cogs. Open the chain and take it out of the derailleur.
2. Unscrew the shifting cable.
3. Unscrew the derailleur
4. Remove the derailleur
5. Install new derailleur, and secure it with clamp or the applicable fixing.
6. Put chain through new derailleur and close the chain
7. Attach the shifting cable.
8. Align the tension of the cable and L/H screws for all gears to work properly.

cletus

Time for my weekly stupid question.

How is the width of drop bars measured? The interwebz does not give a consistent answer.

magicbastarder

It depends. Some manufacturers measure centre to centre where the bar plugs go, some measure total width.

CormacH94

How to tell I've sized my chain correctly (or incorrectly)

Any telltale signs for too long/short?

Type 17

CormacH94 wrote: »

How to tell I've sized my chain correctly (or incorrectly)

Any telltale signs for too long/short?

Too long: bottom run of chain rubs on rear derailleur jockey cage when in smallest sprocket/smallest chainring.

Too short: chain binds and won't allow shifting to largest sprocket/largest chainring.

Just right*: when in larger chainring/smallest sprocket, jockey wheel bolts are vertical in relation to each other (or less than a link-length of swing either way).

*This rule applies to road/hybrids with a double chainset - triple chainsets, MTB's with huge cassettes, 1x setups, and setups with cassettes over 34t largest may vary:
Park Tool video - how to size a chain gives you details for all setups