the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

grogi

CormacH94 wrote: »

Anyone explain in laymans terms what I'd be able to do to swap out a 105 5700 53/39 170.2mm crank for a 50/34 170mm crank?

Head is melted trying to figure out compatibility between generations

Can I use a newer 105 crankset (R7000) on a 10 speed 105 system with no issues?

Or can I use Tiagra 4700 cranks?

I ride 11 speed Ultegra crankset with otherwise 10 speed Tiagra. No issues. The distance between chainrings is the same in 10 and 11speed front chainsets.

crosstownk

CormacH94 wrote: »

Can I use a newer 105 crankset (R7000) on a 10 speed 105 system with no issues?

Or can I use Tiagra 4700 cranks?

I’d say both will work fine. Personally, I’d go for the R7000 simply just to future proof.

CormacH94

Will I run into any potential problems running a 50/34 with an 11/28 on a short cage rear derailleur?

magicbastarder

chainset is immaterial, but more short cage RDs are fine with 28 teeth. do you have a specific model you intend using?

Type 17

CormacH94 wrote: »

Will I run into any potential problems running a 50/34 with an 11/28 on a short cage rear derailleur?

The differences* are 33, which is the official limit from the Shimano specs (which make/model is yours?), but if it is a Shimano, their capacity specs are quite conservative anyway, so definitely no problem.

*Derailleur capacity = difference between 50 & 34 (16) + difference between 11 & 28 (17), so 33 in your case.

CormacH94

It'd be an R7000 50/34 - everything else is 105 5700

tnegun

Replaced the BB on the bike today and the improvement is immediately noticeable, feels more solid and better shifting front and back. There was a lot of play in the old one and it had fallen apart when I removed the cranks for cleaning a couple of weeks ago so needed to be done.

The replacement is a little stiff though I took it for a 30k spin to see would it loosen up but its the same after that. Is there a run in period with them? I loosened off the cranks to see had I over tightened but it didn't make any difference. It's not awful but definitely not spinning freely.Its an FSA BB4000 a direct swop for what was on the bike.

cletus

When I was re-installing the bottom bracket, I noticed that the axle had a longer taper on o e wide than the other. Having not noticed it when removing, I figured the longer side was to accommodate the triple chain ring on the drive side, and installed it so.

However, looking at it this evening, the chain line is too far to the outside of the chain stay, in fact it's falling in line with the drop out, basically.

Question is, am I ok to just take it out and swap it, leaving the longer side on the non drive side.



And yes, I am aware that the lock ring for the bottom bracket is not flat, it was like that when I got here...

Tony04

Each side of the bottom bracket uses different sided threads so AFAIK left hand threads arent compatible with right hand threads and vice versa.

Is the crank 1x or 3x if its 3x you can change which chainring you use to get the chain line right that's why if doing a 1x conversion it's best to keep your old crank or buy a new bottom bracket with a smaller longer diameter

Tony04

Seeing the picture you could move the chainring to the middle to improve the chain line

cletus

Tony04 wrote: »

Each side of the bottom bracket uses different sided threads so AFAIK left hand threads arent compatible with right hand threads and vice versa.

Is the crank 1x or 3x if its 3x you can change which chainring you use to get the chain line right that's why if doing a 1x conversion it's best to keep your old crank or buy a new bottom bracket with a smaller longer diameter

They're right hand thread on both sides.

8valve

cletus wrote: »

They're right hand thread on both sides.

Italian thread, so?

Tony04

cletus wrote: »

They're right hand thread on both sides.

Well if so you can swap as you like.

cletus

To clarify, it's just the axle of the bottom bracket I want to swap around. I'll leave the threaded cups in their respective positions.

The threads I was referring to are on the end of the taper, to hold on the cranks

Type 17

On many cup-and-cone BBs, the axle is longer on the non-drive side (not sure why, but maybe because older LH cranks are relatively straight, whereas newer styles have more lateral curve).

When removing older axles, I’ve found that on ones that have any writing on them (make, length, etc), the writing is the right way up when viewed from the saddle.

ec18

Do you need to bleed hydraulic discs after switching the hoses between the levers ?

Type 17

ec18 wrote: »

Do you need to bleed hydraulic discs after switching the hoses between the levers ?

If you’re lucky, then no, but if any air was admitted to the circuit (long lever travel, sponginess), then a quick burp (not a full bleed/fuid exchange with a syringe at the calliper) is in order - assuming the fluid is good (not old or contaminated), you can put a cup on the lever with some fluid in it, Angle the bike so air bubbles can flow up the circuit to the cup, and then work the lever/tap the pipework/lever with a screwdriver handle to encourage the bubbles to break free and rise up the circuit into the cup.
Keep tapping/working the lever for several minutes until the bubbles stop and the lever feels firm again.

cletus

Weepsie wrote: »

I have the cutting guide tool, hack saw and a file. It's not the cutting so much as the cutting it too much.

They're both touring frames, so want them fairly relaxed.

I cheapest out on the star nut tool too but will give that a go.

How did tyoyu get on with this, Weepsie

crosstownk

crosstownk wrote: »

While cleaning one of the bikes today, I noticed that there is a small bit of play in the freehub i.e. if I hold the cassette, I can rock it up and down by a small amount - less than 1mm. It's NOT the cups/cones that are loose.

I can't say I've noticed this before but I haven't really checked for it before - I just accidentally noticed it today. Can I just leave it or do I need to nip up the FH a small bit?

Fulcrum Racing 3 with Shimano FH - approx 8,000km.

I posted this a couple of weeks ago and even though it was suggested (and accepted) that the play was normal, it’s been bugging me ever since - especially when I can see the cassette wobble when I ride. When it wobbles, I pedal backwards momentarily and the wobble then stops.

It was time to clean that bike again so I removed the cassette and the play is in the free hub. So I then removed the free hub and the outboard bearing is the cause.

I now need to decide if I should buy the bearings and the press or the whole free hub.

Has anyone replaced the bearings and if so, how did it go?

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS!

How do I remove this style of bike pump without the air gushing out of the tyre?

Until recently, I've been using the petrol station pump. I bought my own one in Halfords recently.

Thanks folks

twist... fast !!!

Type 17

Deleted User wrote: »

twist... fast !!!

True!

You might find it quicker (ie, less air lost) if you unscrew the pump from the other end first, so that you can do the quick unscrewing at the valve without the pump hanging off the other end of the connector.

RacoonQueen

I noticed on downhills recently That brakes were squeaking, I never keep an eye on brake pads so immediately thought, buy new brake pads that’ll fix it. I did need new brake pads however brakes still squeaking I religiously clean wheels after a spin so don’t think that’d be the problem but could be. Any other ideas?
I think it is only front brakes squeaking but hard to tell as when descending I’m getting both going. Do have a practically brand new front wheel I could try to see if wheel is the problem.


Strongly considering just buying a new bike as I believe this will solve my problem :pac:

magicbastarder

rim brakes or disc? i assume rim brakes based on what you said?

RacoonQueen

Yep sorry rim brakes

Deano12345

Just won a disc wheel on eBay for a steal, problem is it’s 10 speed. There are a few 11 speed cassettes that are compatible with it though. 105 5800 11-34 is one...is there any others?

I could have sworn the 11-30 R8000 was as well!

swarlb

RacoonQueen wrote: »

I noticed on downhills recently That brakes were squeaking, I never keep an eye on brake pads so immediately thought, buy new brake pads that’ll fix it. I did need new brake pads however brakes still squeaking I religiously clean wheels after a spin so don’t think that’d be the problem but could be. Any other ideas?
I think it is only front brakes squeaking but hard to tell as when descending I’m getting both going. Do have a practically brand new front wheel I could try to see if wheel is the problem.


Strongly considering just buying a new bike as I believe this will solve my problem :pac:

Personally I wouldn't clean the rims... you might be leaving a residue that will either cause the squeak or hinder braking.
Try to have the 'leading edge' of the pad make contact with the rim, rather than having the pad hit the rim 'squarely.
You may have to 'twist' the caliper slightly to achieve this.

crosstownk

swarlb wrote: »

Try to have the 'leading edge' of the pad make contact with the rim, rather than having the pad hit the rim 'squarely.
You may have to 'twist' the caliper slightly to achieve this.

Toe in. Use a business card or credit card between the rim and the rear end of the pad to get a bit of leading edge toe-in.

Tony04

Deano12345 wrote: »

Just won a disc wheel on eBay for a steal, problem is it’s 10 speed. There are a few 11 speed cassettes that are compatible with it though. 105 5800 11-34 is one...is there any others?

I could have sworn the 11-30 R8000 was as well!

You could swap the freehub?

Deano12345

Tony04 wrote: »

You could swap the freehub?

Seemingly none available from what I can see.

I could just get the freehub machined too but I’d really rather just keep it 10speed compatible if i sell it down the line.