the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

crosstownk

crosstownk wrote: »

While cleaning one of the bikes today, I noticed that there is a small bit of play in the freehub i.e. if I hold the cassette, I can rock it up and down by a small amount - less than 1mm. It's NOT the cups/cones that are loose.

I can't say I've noticed this before but I haven't really checked for it before - I just accidentally noticed it today. Can I just leave it or do I need to nip up the FH a small bit?

Fulcrum Racing 3 with Shimano FH - approx 8,000km.

I posted this a couple of weeks ago and even though it was suggested (and accepted) that the play was normal, it’s been bugging me ever since - especially when I can see the cassette wobble when I ride. When it wobbles, I pedal backwards momentarily and the wobble then stops.

It was time to clean that bike again so I removed the cassette and the play is in the free hub. So I then removed the free hub and the outboard bearing is the cause.

I now need to decide if I should buy the bearings and the press or the whole free hub.

Has anyone replaced the bearings and if so, how did it go?

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS!

How do I remove this style of bike pump without the air gushing out of the tyre?

Until recently, I've been using the petrol station pump. I bought my own one in Halfords recently.

Thanks folks

twist... fast !!!

Type 17

Deleted User wrote: »

twist... fast !!!

True!

You might find it quicker (ie, less air lost) if you unscrew the pump from the other end first, so that you can do the quick unscrewing at the valve without the pump hanging off the other end of the connector.

RacoonQueen

I noticed on downhills recently That brakes were squeaking, I never keep an eye on brake pads so immediately thought, buy new brake pads that’ll fix it. I did need new brake pads however brakes still squeaking I religiously clean wheels after a spin so don’t think that’d be the problem but could be. Any other ideas?
I think it is only front brakes squeaking but hard to tell as when descending I’m getting both going. Do have a practically brand new front wheel I could try to see if wheel is the problem.


Strongly considering just buying a new bike as I believe this will solve my problem :pac:

magicbastarder

rim brakes or disc? i assume rim brakes based on what you said?

RacoonQueen

Yep sorry rim brakes

Deano12345

Just won a disc wheel on eBay for a steal, problem is it’s 10 speed. There are a few 11 speed cassettes that are compatible with it though. 105 5800 11-34 is one...is there any others?

I could have sworn the 11-30 R8000 was as well!

swarlb

RacoonQueen wrote: »

I noticed on downhills recently That brakes were squeaking, I never keep an eye on brake pads so immediately thought, buy new brake pads that’ll fix it. I did need new brake pads however brakes still squeaking I religiously clean wheels after a spin so don’t think that’d be the problem but could be. Any other ideas?
I think it is only front brakes squeaking but hard to tell as when descending I’m getting both going. Do have a practically brand new front wheel I could try to see if wheel is the problem.


Strongly considering just buying a new bike as I believe this will solve my problem :pac:

Personally I wouldn't clean the rims... you might be leaving a residue that will either cause the squeak or hinder braking.
Try to have the 'leading edge' of the pad make contact with the rim, rather than having the pad hit the rim 'squarely.
You may have to 'twist' the caliper slightly to achieve this.

crosstownk

swarlb wrote: »

Try to have the 'leading edge' of the pad make contact with the rim, rather than having the pad hit the rim 'squarely.
You may have to 'twist' the caliper slightly to achieve this.

Toe in. Use a business card or credit card between the rim and the rear end of the pad to get a bit of leading edge toe-in.

Tony04

Deano12345 wrote: »

Just won a disc wheel on eBay for a steal, problem is it’s 10 speed. There are a few 11 speed cassettes that are compatible with it though. 105 5800 11-34 is one...is there any others?

I could have sworn the 11-30 R8000 was as well!

You could swap the freehub?

Deano12345

Tony04 wrote: »

You could swap the freehub?

Seemingly none available from what I can see.

I could just get the freehub machined too but I’d really rather just keep it 10speed compatible if i sell it down the line.

MyDarkArts

Any suggestions how to remove spinning chainring bolts?


They're the type that screw directly into the spider so no access on t'other side.

dahat

Recommend me a suitable grease suitable for bolts etc around general maintenance.

Thanks!

Tony04

MyDarkArts wrote: »

Any suggestions how to remove spinning chainring bolts?


They're the type that screw directly into the spider so no access on t'other side.

Youll have to remove your cranks if it doesnt use bolts

Tony04

dahat wrote: »

Recommend me a suitable grease suitable for bolts etc around general maintenance.

Thanks!

Any grease is better than nothing for most stuff I use the park standard stuff my lbs as its convenient to get.

If your near any marine supplies you can get marine grease pretty cheap or if you know a car mechanic I'd imagine you might be able to get yourself some grease off them.

Although while grease prevents corrosion a medium strength threadlocker is ideal for bolts as it prevents them rattling lose.

Be careful some greases mighnt be suited for carbon fiber or rubber(mtb forks)

And carbon and alloy surfaces need special greases

CramCycle

MyDarkArts wrote: »

Any suggestions how to remove spinning chainring bolts?


They're the type that screw directly into the spider so no access on t'other side.

Are they threaded then? Might have to drill them out then. You could try a needle nose pliers down the center, wedging it open and pulling as it spins in case you catch any remaining thread but if its spinning freely I would be doubtful.

If you remove the other bolts, is there any play, could you pop it out?

swarlb

Was looking at a YouTube video of a guy comparing a new (2020) bike to one from 2010. Apart from referring to the 2010 bike as being 'vintage' there was not a vast difference between the bikes apart from brakes (discs v calipers) and tyres. The 2020 bike having slightly wider tyres.
At what stage did tyres begin to get 'fatter'.... In my day (which going by the YouTube video would be classed as 'pre' prehistoric, 19mm was considered the norm. I'm probably certain there is a whole generation that never rode a 'tub'.

loyatemu

swarlb wrote: »

Was looking at a YouTube video of a guy comparing a new (2020) bike to one from 2010. Apart from referring to the 2010 bike as being 'vintage' there was not a vast difference between the bikes apart from brakes (discs v calipers) and tyres. The 2020 bike having slightly wider tyres.
At what stage did tyres begin to get 'fatter'.... In my day (which going by the YouTube video would be classed as 'pre' prehistoric, 19mm was considered the norm. I'm probably certain there is a whole generation that never rode a 'tub'.

my bike's from 2010 and 23mm were the standard then, with thicker tyres still considered "slower"

magicbastarder

i recently sold a bike which had a frame dating from 2010 (i think - it was built with that frame in 2010 but i think the frame was reduced because it was knocking round the shop for a year or two).
i tried sticking a 25 on the front and the wheel wouldn't fit in the fork.

gaffmaster

At some point in the past five years, scientists (funded by the cycling industry) discovered that softer tyres absorbed more vertical movement of the bike, helping prevent virbrationary fatigue to the rider. They also ensure a more consistant contact patch with the road - a tyre bouncing in the air is less efficient at driving forward.

And wider tyres mated to wider rims made the overall aerofoil shape of the rim more aerodynamic.

To your average cyclist - these things don't matter very much. But the comfort benefits of a slightly wider and softer tyre can be felt by anyone.

swarlb

gaffmaster wrote: »

At some point in the past five years, scientists (funded by the cycling industry) discovered that softer tyres absorbed more vertical movement of the bike, helping prevent virbrationary fatigue to the rider. They also ensure a more consistant contact patch with the road - a tyre bouncing in the air is less efficient at driving forward.

And wider tyres mated to wider rims made the overall aerofoil shape of the rim more aerodynamic.

To your average cyclist - these things don't matter very much. But the comfort benefits of a slightly wider and softer tyre can be felt by anyone.

It's the 'average' cyclist that sales are aimed at... so if the consensus is 'wide' than that's what they'll buy.
I'd imagine Professionals will use what pays them the most, in terms of 'wage' or 'win'.

camz09

Hi! So I've had my folding bike for about 6 years now and have never really had a problem with it. I used it mostly during the summer/spring about twice a week. It's a Dahon Vitesse 20inch folding bike. I bought it from Eurocycles in Long Mile Road. Thing is, I've never had it serviced and honestly, it's been in storage for about a year now. My problem is the front wheel needs repair. It's only now I've realised it's broken and flat ( my dad borrowed it and tinkered with the thing). The tube basically broke off/is outside the main wheel. I checked and it doesn't seem to have any puncture on it afaik. I thought I could fix it myself but I'm afraid to make it worse. Any ideas , do I need special tools to do it (that is inserting the tube back and inflating the tire)? I saw you need some kind of tire wedge which I don't have. Personally I think I might be better off getting it serviced and see what the problem is? Would also want to know what to expect in terms of cost for such a thing? Appreciate any help/advice.

I'll attach an image link of the tire

https://ibb.co/8XrZWdk
https://ibb.co/B2XtrS2

tomasrojo

It looks as if you have to inflate the tube slightly, tuck it back inside the tyre, deflate the tube, use tyre levers (or maybe your fingers if you're strong) to push the tyre back into position on the rim of the wheel, and then inflate the tube fully (4 or 5 bar if you have a pressure gauge, or until the tyre feels hard when you squeeze it between your fingers).

But since it's a folding bike, it would be easy to bring it to a shop and let them do it. They might not charge you at all, if the tube doesn't need replacing.

Type 17

camz09 wrote: »

Hi! So I've had my folding bike for about 6 years now and have never really had a problem with it. I used it mostly during the summer/spring about twice a week. It's a Dahon Vitesse 20inch folding bike. I bought it from Eurocycles in Long Mile Road. Thing is, I've never had it serviced and honestly, it's been in storage for about a year now. My problem is the front wheel needs repair. It's only now I've realised it's broken and flat ( my dad borrowed it and tinkered with the thing). The tube basically broke off/is outside the main wheel. I checked and it doesn't seem to have any puncture on it afaik. I thought I could fix it myself but I'm afraid to make it worse. Any ideas , do I need special tools to do it (that is inserting the tube back and inflating the tire)? I saw you need some kind of tire wedge which I don't have. Personally I think I might be better off getting it serviced and see what the problem is? Would also want to know what to expect in terms of cost for such a thing? Appreciate any help/advice.

I'll attach an image link of the tire


https://ibb.co/8XrZWdk
https://ibb.co/B2XtrS2

Simple issue - a tyre left un-pumped for over 6 months or so will likely be completely flat (but the tube will likely be fine, unless damaged separately), and if you wheel the bike along, the tyre/tube can come off the rim of the wheel.
Pay a visit to your local bike shop, and they'll slip it back together for you. If they're too busy and you want to do it yourself, pump the tube up a bitwhere it is (outside the tyre) and leave it a few hours (this is to check that it holds air and didn't get damaged whilst outside the tyre). If it's good, find a YouTube vid about fixing a puncture and follow along from the bit where they're inserting the tube back into the tyre and getting the tyre back onto the rim, etc.

El Tarangu

I'm planning on going cyclo-camping around either the Netherlands or France this summer.

Have the bike - a nice trek SL alpha.

Of course, the only problem with the roadbike is that there are no eyelets or anything for the pannier - would this thing be any use and, if not, would someone be able to recommend a good one for a road bike?

https://www.grandado.com/products/zwarte-fiets-fiets-quick-release-bagage-zadelpen-pannier-carrier-rear-rack-fender

(Might be in Dutch, sorry, but seems to clamp on to the seat post and the drop outs)

Already own a set of pannier bags, so looking for solutions more on this configuration than a seat post bag, but open to any suggestions - thanks

El T.

tomasrojo

I think you can use p-clips to attach a standard rack to a frame with no eyelets?

https://www.bicyclestore.com.au/pannier-rack-p-clips.html

El Tarangu

tomasrojo wrote: »

I think you can use p-clips to attach a standard rack to a frame with no eyelets?

https://www.bicyclestore.com.au/pannier-rack-p-clips.html

I never knew of the existence of such items, that really opens up the possibilites for which panniers I can buy - thanks a mil.

swarlb

El Tarangu wrote: »

I never knew of the existence of such items, that really opens up the possibilites for which panniers I can buy - thanks a mil.

Ye have to think 'sideways' sometimes to get a result. Go into your local motorfactors and you'll probably find something similar, or barring that your local hardware shop. They are not the preserve of 'bicycles'.....

dahat

I'll be putting new chainrings on later, I've watched 3 videos so looks straightforward from those.

What could go wrong????