Effects wrote: » The tyre is holding traction to the ground alright. It feels like mechanical slipping. That's why I'm wondering if it's the hub. If the chain was worn, it would slip on the cogs right?
Effects wrote: » Looking for some advice on an issue with losing traction/power on my rear wheel. Seems to happen when I'm pushing hard, and hitting bumpy road service. Gears are indexing fine, so I don't think it's an issue with the derailleur/cogs. Could it be the freehub being worn out, so it's losing traction internally? I haven't checked for chain wear, in case that could be the issue. I've order a wear checker anyway, but might not get it for a week or two. According to Bikeradar: Had a few close calls, but then last Friday it happened when I was sprinting through a junction and I went down pretty hard. Scrapes and bruising from my ankles up to my shoulders. Thinking of replacing the Shimano R500 wheelset for a CAMPAGNOLO CALIMA C17 WHEELSET to see if that will sort the issue out. Old wheels are out of true anyway, and seems like Shimano don't make these anymore. Do I need to worry about this: I'm about 86kg before the bike weight. So close to 100kg in total when I'm carrying a pack.
Deleted User wrote: » a pad spacer? like for if you have the wheel off while the bike is in the car or something? EDIT: If memory serves there are ones specific to the different manufacturers and discs, but open to correction on that.
cletus wrote: » Should do. Might be worth having a look at the freehub, if you have the tools
Type 17 wrote: » Sounds like the freewheel is dying - unless the wheels are in great condition (you mentioned that they're not), it's probably best to look at a new wheel-set.
MojoMaker wrote: » Those Shimano R500s are dead even when brand new. Do your cycling future a favour and pick up something a bit nicer. Mavic Aksiums for €200 would be a nice step up from R500s.
a_squirrelman wrote: » Hi, I have an issue where the chain won't go back up on to the higher chain ring. What I don't understand is that if I hop off the bike, lift the back wheel and pedal by hand it immediately jumps up to the higher one, which makes no sense to me. Any advice on what could be the issue? I have two chain rings and my gf has the exact same issue on her newish bike, where she has three chain rings, and she can't get from the smallest to middle one. Thanks!
Tony04 wrote: » I guess a 50t set up with an 10t (I'd imagine if 1x is going mainstream it's going to be microspline that will do it) 50 t cassette would work. So you have you 5:1 ratio to grind away on flats and 1:1 ratio as your granny gear. But I still cant see this working; Big range cassettes are heavy to save weight you see aluminium rings being used on the mtb but these wear quicker, you can get away with this on the mtb as they're very scarcely used because you already have the smaller 30-36t chainring on the front. On a road bike your going to be using the high cogs alot presuming you have a big chainring so you'll have to use steel rings unless you want to pay to change your cassette alot. The deore 12 speed cassette, all steel, weighs about 600 grams so youd probably have to have something similar on the road bike also your rd is going to be heavier because of the higher range, so you acctually wouldnt be saving weight, when you think about it. Also on a road bike a 500% range cassette is going to be very jumpy and hard to find the right gear so I dont think it will take off. Even though it's much more a pain to maintain I think for the wide choice of gears I'll be sticking with 2x. Even for the maintenance benefits the cassette mightnt be as mainstream and therefore harder and more expensive to change Saying that I did spin the other day around ncd when I didnt shift down on the small chainring although equally did 50k with 1000+ elevation the next day that I wouldnt of completed without the little ring
a_squirrelman wrote: » Anyone?
dahat wrote: » Can a short cage take 11/30 with the same chain running 11/28? Upfront its 52/36.
loyatemu wrote: » put a new cassette and chain onto my bike, first time doing either job - both cassettes are Shimano 10 speed the new cassette came with 2 spacers on the inside (i.e. behind the largest ring), a thin one that was the equivalent of the one I took off, so I put that one on. The other was a thicker spacer with some notches in it that I couldn't have used even if I wanted to as the last ring of the cassette wouldn't have fitted on. So what is it for? Putting a 10 speed onto an 11 speed hub?
loyatemu wrote: » I discovered my bike tool set (which did include a chain breaker and cassette tool) did not include a set of quick link pliers. Cue several sweary minutes trying to detach the oily quicklink with the pliers on my Leatherman (I managed in the end).
CormacH94 wrote: » Are headsets a standard configuration? I.e, I have two forks I want to be able to swap between the one bike (One fork is fully slammed, one has a lot of length for touring) but I need a crown race for the relaxed fork. The steerer is 1 1/8 - Does this mean I only need any 1 1/8 crown race or is better to match to the brand/model currently on the slammed fork?
Weepsie wrote: » Knowing from the outset an ultegra triple was a terrible idea for a tourer
8valve wrote: » Have seen this with a few bikes; changes up to the big ring on the workstand no problem but won't shift up when being ridden under pressure. What has worked for me is increasing cable tension gradually (if you have an inline tensioner fitted to the cable) and giving the outer limit screw no more than a quarter turn to allow the front mech travel further out by a teeny-weeny (very technical term lol) amount more, but not so much as to allow the chain to run out off the big chainring and get fouled up on the cranks and risking damage/twisting of the front mech cage...little bit of faffing/trial and error required; seek pro help if you don't feel confident. Also, take pedalling pressure off the pedals (but still rotating forward, obviously!)when changing up to the big ring.
a_squirrelman wrote: » Thanks cletus and 8valve. Cable tension was the issue, and with no outer screw on this ancient bike I had to move the cage out a mm or two as well. Took some messing about but as a total noob I managed nonetheless. Cheers!
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