the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

CramCycle · 30-09-2018 12:47PM

Best I can think of is either upside down and shake the frame like bejaysus, or a coat hanger suitably bent if there is any space to the side of it, can you see it down the tube?

CantGetNoSleep · 30-09-2018 01:33PM

CramCycle wrote: »

Best I can think of is either upside down and shake the frame like bejaysus, or a coat hanger suitably bent if there is any space to the side of it, can you see it down the tube?

Yeah I have a repair stand - whatever way it had lodged itself it won't come out just by hanging the frame upside down.

I managed to get a bit of dental floss looped around it today by adding a washer to one end but the floss snapped - tried the same with a shoelace but can't get one end of it looped around.

I worry about a coat hanger damaging the carbon if it were to scratch the inside? There is a very small space either side, I got a flag pole that was close to 10mm wide id say up the side of it but it won't move at all. My only options I think are that or disassemble the cranks and bb - but it's a Cannondale so not that easy to disassemble.

Proper weekend ruining stuff it's that frustrating - trying everything and not something I've ever heard of going wrong with a new bike

30-09-2018 01:36PM

Would it be simpler to leave it there and try and source a new one from Cannondale or would it cause issue with fitting the seatpost or block it or some other issue?

CrowdedHouse · 30-09-2018 01:42PM

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I worry about a coat hanger damaging the carbon if it were to scratch the inside?

Wrap a layer of electrical tape around the coat hanger ?

CantGetNoSleep · 30-09-2018 02:16PM

Deleted User wrote: »

Would it be simpler to leave it there and try and source a new one from Cannondale or would it cause issue with fitting the seatpost or block it or some other issue?

With the way it was wedged I'd worry it would damage the seat tube - it would also limit the amount you could lower the saddle as it was less than half way down the tube.

Finally - IT IS OUT though. After trying every tool, kitchen utensil, shoe lace, pieces of string, magnets, dental floss - it somehow wiggled out with a coat hanger with a very small hooked shaped into the end of it, less than the diameter of a pencil. I even made the gf order sushi last night, she thought it was to make up for being in a bad mood all afternoon as she knows I hate sushi even though she loves it - in reality I just wanted the chopsticks.

Hope there is no lasting damage to the inside of the brand new carbon frame - I really had to force it out in the end as it wasn't moving up or down and a few of the things I tried could have scratched by moving the part itself around. There is a gear cable end cover stuck inside the frame somewhere too but I will just have to live with that I think.

Word of warning for anyone getting a Cannnondale frame - don't take out the seatpost without making sure the clamp is secure (even though it was a Cannondale dealer who did this, not me).

Thanks for the advice - one of the more frustrating things I've had go wrong with a bike (and definitely a brand new bike)

cdaly_ · 09-10-2018 05:17PM

Yep, that'll work (probably). You're reducing the tooth count of your chainrings by 2 or 4 and increasing the cassette by 2 so the derailleur now has less to take up.

If you're going to 46/30, why not go 46/26 for an even lower climbing gear?

Mind you, I haven't yet managed to climb the Dying Cow in 26x32 (front x rear) without putting a foot down...

CramCycle · 09-10-2018 05:30PM

Weepsie wrote: »

I'm assuming this is a no but:

I've a bike that's currently set up with a Compact 50/34 crankset and an 11-32 cassette. The RD is basically at it's limit as it's a Tiagra 4601 (long cage) and it's listed as 30t maximum.

However, if I wished to change the front to a 48/32 or 46/30, will that offset anything and allow me to change to an 11-34 at the back? I basically want to be able to get up a vertical wall!

So your new front set up has still a 16t gap, your rear cassette has a 23t gap. Your 9t over the limit by your reckoning but a quick google says the capacity on a Tiagra 10 speed GS derailleur is 40t, not 30t.

CramCycle · 09-10-2018 08:56PM

Weepsie wrote: »

Sorry max sprocket is listed as 30t. I had that wrong and ignored capacity due to always getting confused (though I realise now it's simple).

I'd be pushing my luck with an 11-36 in the 48/32 set up though. 11-34 with a 48/32 sounds like it'ts worth a go anyway.

I'd say the 32 is doable as they always have excess built in, 34 I imagine would be cutting it very close, no hope of a 36.

mirrormatrix · 10-10-2018 08:27AM

Have a rather annoying click that I can't track down. Only happens periodically (i.e. not on every pedal rotation). Usually only happens when i'm pushing the pace or climbing. It sometimes happens when I sit back in the saddle after sprint, but have regreased/tightened all bolts there to no avail. Any ideas on common issues to check? Headset is my next port of call.

Macy0161 · 10-10-2018 08:59AM

mirrormatrix wrote: »

Headset is my next port of call.

When I was getting something similar earlier in the year, on my carbon bike, it was the headset.

cletus · 10-10-2018 09:22AM

I have a small issue on my bike. When in the highest gear, I get a clicking noise on the downstroke of the right pedal, but only if im putting pressure down, not if I'm just maintaining speed

CramCycle · 10-10-2018 09:25AM

cletus wrote: »

I have a small issue on my bike. When in the highest gear, I get a clicking noise on the downstroke of the right pedal, but only if im putting pressure down, not if I'm just maintaining speed

Derailleur not aligned properly? Crankset or chainrings slightly (almost unnoticeably) loose?

brianomc · 10-10-2018 10:10AM

mirrormatrix wrote: »

Have a rather annoying click that I can't track down. Only happens periodically (i.e. not on every pedal rotation). Usually only happens when i'm pushing the pace or climbing. It sometimes happens when I sit back in the saddle after sprint, but have regreased/tightened all bolts there to no avail. Any ideas on common issues to check? Headset is my next port of call.

Take the seatpost out, wipe it clean, regrease (with clean gloves/hands) and put it back in. A small bit of grit can get in and make that clicking sound. Usually when putting extra effort in too so it sounds a lot like this could be your issue.

cletus · 10-10-2018 10:25AM

CramCycle wrote: »

Derailleur not aligned properly? Crankset or chainrings slightly (almost unnoticeably) loose?

Thanks for the reply CramCycle. I had the derailleur adjusted, and checked the chain rings myself. How would I go go about tightening the crankset

mirrormatrix · 10-10-2018 10:28AM

brianomc wrote: »

Take the seatpost out, wipe it clean, regrease (with clean gloves/hands) and put it back in. A small bit of grit can get in and make that clicking sound. Usually when putting extra effort in too so it sounds a lot like this could be your issue.

Thanks. You might well be right. Will give this a go this evening.

CramCycle · 10-10-2018 10:50AM

cletus wrote: »

Thanks for the reply CramCycle. I had the derailleur adjusted, and checked the chain rings myself. How would I go go about tightening the crankset

Grab the pedal end of the crank and see is there any play in it. back and forth. If your derailleur is close, it maybe the added weight in the downstroke rubbing it?

Also is it one click per rotation or multiple creaks?

magicbastarder · 10-10-2018 10:51AM

someone really needs to write an app which will record the click/creak, and diagnose it via scientific jiggery-pokery.

cletus · 10-10-2018 11:29AM

CramCycle wrote: »

Grab the pedal end of the crank and see is there any play in it. back and forth. If your derailleur is close, it maybe the added weight in the downstroke rubbing it?

Also is it one click per rotation or multiple creaks?

Couple of quick ticks

CramCycle · 10-10-2018 11:33AM

cletus wrote: »

Couple of quick ticks

This is all guesswork but it may just be the outer bit of the chainlinks rubbing the derailleur when it is under pressure. If the crankset is in no way loose, then it could just be the derailleur is a mm to close to the chainring.

Budawanny · 11-10-2018 03:49PM

Hi Lads, not strictly a maintenance question but kind of..
my rear rim on my commuter is gone quite a bit concave from wear (hybrid, giant escape 0).
just wondering would it be common to ask the LBS to replace the rim? ive spoken to a few guys about replacing the wheel but they never mention just replacing the rim so im wondering am i being dopey :-)
cheers

CramCycle · 11-10-2018 03:52PM

Budawanny wrote: »

Hi Lads, not strictly a maintenance question but kind of..
my rear rim on my commuter is gone quite a bit concave from wear (hybrid, giant escape 0).
just wondering would it be common to ask the LBS to replace the rim? ive spoken to a few guys about replacing the wheel but they never mention just replacing the rim so im wondering am i being dopey :-)
cheers

Perfectly doable, not sure how many would but there are a few.

Type 17 · 11-10-2018 03:53PM

It’s usually cheaper to buy a new wheel than have a new rim laced onto the existing one, and if it’s got enough km to wear out the rim, the hub and spokes are probably worn out too. Probably the onlty time it’s wirth it is if it’s a new, expensive wheel and the rim gets damaged in an accident.

magicbastarder · 11-10-2018 03:54PM

unless it's a particularly good wheel, it might be cheaper to replace the entire wheel than stick a new rim on the hub and rebuild it?

Budawanny · 11-10-2018 03:56PM

magicbastarder wrote: »

unless it's a particularly good wheel, it might be cheaper to replace the entire wheel than stick a new rim on the hub and rebuild it?

that's a good point. its not particularly good at all, factory wheel that came with the bike, circa 8 years old now..

thanks!
ill look into buying a wheel .

Budawanny · 11-10-2018 04:01PM

Type 17 wrote: »

It’s usually cheaper to buy a new wheel than have a new rim laced onto the existing one, and if it’s got enough km to wear out the rim, the hub and spokes are probably worn out too. Probably the onlty time it’s wirth it is if it’s a new, expensive wheel and the rim gets damaged in an accident.

Nice one, thanks. new wheel it is.

Budawanny · 11-10-2018 04:01PM

CramCycle wrote: »

Perfectly doable, not sure how many would but there are a few.

thanks

brownian · 11-10-2018 04:16PM

mirrormatrix wrote: »

Have a rather annoying click that I can't track down. Only happens periodically (i.e. not on every pedal rotation). Usually only happens when i'm pushing the pace or climbing. It sometimes happens when I sit back in the saddle after sprint, but have regreased/tightened all bolts there to no avail. Any ideas on common issues to check? Headset is my next port of call.

Headset, saddle, pedals. I had one for ages that turned out to be my saddle.

MacAttackJ · 12-10-2018 09:09AM

Good morning all. I currently have Continental Cyclocross Speed Bike Tyres (700c, 35c) on my Ridgeback Flight. Whilst not actually Cyclocross tyres (bit of marketing there), I am happy with how they handle on my daily commute. The problem with them is they wear down quite quickly and I need to replace again having suffered a few punctures of late. What I am looking for is a Gatorskin style, puncture resistant, good grip tyre that comes in size 35. Looking at Gatorskins, they are all either of the slick variety or don’t come in 35’s. Any ideas? Many thanks.

seamus · 12-10-2018 09:15AM

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/schwalbe-marathon-touring-tyre-greenguard/rp-prod69133

****ing great tyre. Been using exclusively them on my commuter for nearly a decade now. I can count the number of punctures in that time on one hand.

MojoMaker · 12-10-2018 10:13AM

Re: the creaking sounds from mirrormatrix and cleatus. Are you running press fit bottom brackets? hateful things...

Creaking on one side only, creaking when climbing or stomping, little or no noise when spinning?

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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