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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,542 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I think if it's non-Garmin, your only option is manual upload from the head unit. They're not very open with their APIs - we have a Withings smart scale and it was a bit of a faff to get the readings on to Garmin.

    With this new subscription model they're going after, I unfortunately cant see it getting better anytime soon.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 836 ✭✭✭Roadtoad


    Derailleur hanger question:

    I've damaged the threads on the frame, both are now wrung (Giant Defy, about 15 years old).

    Has anyone successfully gotten around this?

    Is a Helicoil fix the best, or only option?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,407 ✭✭✭cletus


    Helicoil would definitely be my go-to option.

    Be careful though, because there's not much material to work with, so you need to make sure your threads are square to the frame



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,613 ✭✭✭at1withmyself


    This new Park Tool might help some people:



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,407 ✭✭✭cletus


    Just thinking about this job, a thread tapping block might help, something similar to this...

    images (1).jpeg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,120 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    How many times are you allowed hop it off the wall and stay in warranty? Asking for a friend



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,512 ✭✭✭phelixoflaherty


    Ordeing stuff from https://www.bike-discount.de. for a cube editor

    Is there stuff I never knew I needed or knick knacks?

    Thanks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 122 ✭✭Bluejohn1


    Struggling to get a 28mm schwable pro one tle to hook/pop to the rim. I'm using a schwable booster to inflate, but once i remove the booster the tyre falls back into the rim. Any tips? Didn't have this issue with much larger tyres 45mm.

    I could throw a tube in and try seat it, but I'd like to not have to take the tyre off again 😅



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,542 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I was having awful difficulty with the same thing last year and finally got it seated with an Airshot (which is pretty much exactly what you have). Check to make sure your rim doesn't have any damage and that your rim tape is still OK. Also make sure there's no old sealant stuck to the hook. After that you could try soapy water around the bead, or even neat washing up liquid works I believe. Then you might have to resort to the tube.

    One final thought - you said it falls odd once you remove the booster. Does it stay seated when the booster is still attached and if so, can you leave it overnight? You might even be able to top it up without detaching it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,407 ✭✭✭cletus


    Try removing the valve core (if you haven't) it'll improve the airflow into the tyre. Failing that, find someone with a compressor



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 122 ✭✭Bluejohn1


    I just threw the tpus back in last night, hopefully they'll seat after being like that for a few days. Otherwise I might have to try the soapy water/air compressor route. Thanks.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,010 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    With the booster still attached are you inflating it up to the desired pressure, it acts as pass through if you do that it might just need a bit more pressure to get it fully seated.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 122 ✭✭Bluejohn1


    I pump the booster up with the release valve closed. Attach to the valve with the core removed. Open the valve on the booster and the tyre inflates. I can close the the release valve on the booster and it seems theres still plenty of air in it. 60-70psi odd(my pump reads) down from 140-160 it was filled with. But the tyre is fairly solid on the rim (Scribe Pace Alu) and not leaking any air.

    I've reopened the valve and pumped more air through, but same outcome when I detach the booster.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,543 ✭✭✭MojoMaker


    What rim is it? I've had awful trouble with Mavic hookless rims in recent years.

    Normally Schwalbe tyres slide on like butter - very pliable - but on a tough rim maybe not.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,542 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Does anybody know if a 112 link chain is likely to fit a fairly standard road bike (i.e., not long wheelbase)? I'm in the market for a new cassette and chain and looking at bike-discount they have very good deals on 112 link 105 chains (€13.43 as opposed to €22.73 for longer ones). It's a 50/34 chainset and I'm putting an 11-34 cassette on (replacing a 32 so not quite like for like). When I swap a chain, I'd usually end up lopping off some links, but I'm not 100% sure what length the last chain started off as in the first place.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,407 ✭✭✭cletus


    Count the links on the current chain?

    You'd have to do that with a new longer chain anyway



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,542 ✭✭✭JMcL


    That'd be my next step, I'm just trying to be lazy 😁

    [edit] So having pulled out the finger and done that the current chain is 110 so with the bigger cassette the 112 chain might be a false economy



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,094 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    I was replacing the brake fluid on one of my bikes yesterday and seem to have lost/mislaid one of the small rubber caps that covers the nipple. Presumably its function is to prevent dust/dirt entering? Is it necessary to get a replacement?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,407 ✭✭✭cletus


    If it was me, I'd be looking for a replacement (lbs, maybe), but I wouldn't think it needed to be replaced before you cycle the bike again

    *Jesus, what atrocious typing. All mistakes fixed

    Post edited by cletus on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,094 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    Thanks. I was out on it this morning but I'll see if I can source a replacement.



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  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 4,128 Mod ✭✭✭✭Planet X


    Shimano ALTUS Front Derailleur 3 x 9.

    On the bike discount.de site.
    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shimano-altus-fd-m371-3x9-speed-front-derailleur

    There are two variants both relating to “downswing”…….I’m stumped. Which do I order.

    Bike. Thorn Audax mk3. 3 x 9.

    Cheers.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,015 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    If I am right, it the chainstay angle, between your seat tube and seat stay ie centre line of both to the centre of the BB or from the centre of the rear axle, to the centre of the BB, to the seat stay angle.

    Not sure what difference this makes, but at some point it caused an issue big enough that Shimano give two options. I certainly never remember this coming up as a thing when I had 3*9.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 423 ✭✭andyd12


    Perhaps a stupid question…

    Considering a Specialized Roubaix to double as a road/gravel bike with 2 sets of wheels... Would swapping wheels mean re-indexing of gears if different gearing used on each wheel?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 953 ✭✭✭gn3dr


    Once you are swapping 10 speed for 10 speed or 11 speed for 11 etc then as long as the derailleur can handle the largest cog no re indexing would be needed.

    Might just need to check cassettes on both wheels to make sure measurement say from the outside (smallest) cog to the frame mounting surface on the axle is the same.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,041 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    I’d be more worried about the brakes going out of kilter with regular swapping



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 4,128 Mod ✭✭✭✭Planet X


    Chainring bolts.
    Replacing original steel which are corroding. Local shop doesn’t have SS atm but are putting on aluminium instead. This OK? I hear they can creak etc and are softer than SS.

    Anything to worry about really?



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,015 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Other than they are softer so possibly easier to round, I'd say they are grand once greased.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 346 ✭✭RunDMC


    I would like to replace the stembolts on my gravel bike as they have corroded and are badly pitted. Is there are standard bolt size and are they easy to find? A quick browse online suggests not.

    Thanks

    R



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,407 ✭✭✭cletus


    First thing is to find the size of your stem bolt (technically just a machine screw). Most common sizes are probably M4 or M5. Second thing is length, probably around 18mm or so, I'd say.

    Once you know this, typing "stem bolts" into Google brings up a plethora of results.

    Another option, I went to my lbs looking for similar, and they literally had a plastic box of stems they had changed, and they threw out 6 or 8 stem bolts to me for nothing



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 421 ✭✭ofthelord


    Hi All,

    I've replaced a tubeless tyre on my gravel bike, but am having a nightmare trying to get it seated onto the rim. I've tried using a track pump, an air compressor, and a co2 cartridge. no luck at all. even tried leaving it fully inflated with an inner tube for 24 hours before removing the tube and trying again tubeless - no luck. have also tried wetting the edge of the tyre with soapy water.

    If I can't figure it out today I'll be popping to the LBS tomorrow where I'm sure they'll have it done in 30 seconds for me.

    Would just like to get it done on my own if possible as it seems like it should be doable, and I'm sure I might have this issue again so would like to know how to do it.

    Any suggestions for what I might be missing?? Maybe a stronger pump like the ones at Applegreen petrol station??

    Thanks a lot!



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