the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

07Lapierre

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123535964#Comment_123535964

No grease so! Thanks

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123535887#Comment_123535887

Unless the a

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123535887#Comment_123535887

Last question, have you had creaking before. I ask as I haven't added any grease to mine after hearing and not researching that I shouldn't and it hasn't creaked.

TLDR, if you haven't creaked before, I'd say none or just grease, if you have, go for a retaining compound, knowing it will be harder to remove the next time.

Other options are splashing the cash and getting threaded (to itself) BBs to square off but the cost for me is insane compared to a plastic Shimano press fit.

07Lapierre

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123539159#Comment_123539159

Thanks for the reply. No no creaking. The bearings were shot so i bought a new BB (and a BB press from Aliexpress)

actually fitted last night and all ok.

secman

Quick question

I've a Roval CL50 rapide wheelset on my Tarmac, came with Bontrager R2 tyres. Not overly confident of these in the wet.

I've a set of Gp5000 clincher 28's which have to be mounted on a hooked rim.

Are the Rovals hooked and will they take 28's

I'm not Technically or Terminology savvy 🙃

Update : all sorted, doctor Google to the rescue.

f1000

can this be fixed or is it new frame time?

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123596746#Comment_123596746

It's hard to tell, really. Aluminum can be welded, but you need someone who knows what they're doing.

CramCycle

I wouldn't trust it, it looks like it's not a weld fail but the tube is cracked. You might get away with a long seat tube and a reweld but If never trust it descending again.

JMcL

I'd be wary - alloy has a reputation of catastrophic failure when it does go. Your case is less likely to have severe consequences compared to say a set of alloy handlebars failing (I'm assuming the seatpost goes down a bit farther), but it still wouldn't be fun.

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123596746#Comment_123596746

finished I reckon. Out of interest, how old is it and any idea of the mileage? And has it cracked at the point where the Seatpost ends?

magicbastarder

Going by the paint bubbling and falling off, it's definitely got a few years on it anyway.

cletus

While aluminium can fail catastrophically, it's usually as a result of work hardening. The solution to that is to anneal it. The heat of welding would usually be enough to complete that process. However, it needs to be tig welded, and by someone who knows what they're doing (welding aluminium isn't easy).

If the repair was done by a fabricator with the relevant skills and experience, I wouldn't have an issue with it.

f1000

the frame is 15/16 year old 7005 alu. would hate to bin it as it's a light frame. full build is around 8.5kg

has been used a lot - daily, everywhere + commuting

the break is just above the weld and is only across half of the tube. not sure how deep the post goes as I'm afraid to remove it now

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123599459#Comment_123599459

It looks full depth, to be honest

winklepicker2025

Quick question

what are you using too lube you chain up ??
decrease first then lube ??

Thanks

fiacha

Get quotes for full frame inspection and repair from a competent frame builders. You'll need someone experienced in welding alu / alloy frames. Then decide if it's worth it v's buying a new(er) bike.

Ring around your local shops and see which frame builders they know of.

What state is the rest of the bike in ?

f1000

Thanks for all the replies 🙏

bike is in great shape. have serviced and part-updated over the years

only area on the frame where bubbling/oxidation happened, is where the break occurred

will deffo look to see if I can get it welded - if not, n+1 time

magicbastarder

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123599863#Comment_123599863

degrease chain fully; then a 'base' coat of a thick lube, and a top up with a thinner lube every 100 or 200km; but that can be much more frequent in the wet.

there's no such thing as 'no such thing as too much lube' because too much lube is a thing. wipe the excess lube off the chain after applying.

devonp

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123599863#Comment_123599863

I use Fenwicks All Condition lube now, good for winter and summer, doesn't attract too much dirt and cleans off easily when degreasing (used to use Muc-Off…Wet lube really attracts dirt in winter ..)

Large bottle small glass

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123600070#Comment_123600070

https://www.motoengineering.com/

No personal experience but recommended on a cycling chat

f1000

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123602004#Comment_123602004

Big thanks for the link, much appreciated!

Had a look through their Google reviews, they have repaired bicycles over the years, with similar issues. Will deffo have a chat with them

This is the current state of my seat tube, this eve, after a short spin (from the other side) 😬

ARX

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123602892#Comment_123602892

I had them weld a similar crack a few years ago - they welded a gusset between the seat tube and the top tube (above the top tube). After about three weeks the frame broke where the front of the gusset was welded to the top tube, so it was a waste of time and money.

I had a 10 year old Giant Defy crack in the same place. AFAIU aluminium has a finite lifetime unlike steel or carbon, so I reckon a cracked 15 year old lightweight Alu frame is scrap now.

If you're looking for a replacement, how about this for €350?

Massini Richmond II frameset

f1000

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123604462#Comment_123604462

Yeah, looking at the break now… I wouldn't be confident in a repair job, because of the location and the stress load on that area. My thumb on the back of the saddle is enough to move it. It owes me nothing at this stage

Wildly Boaring

Hi all, is there any saving a STI lever if the cable is stuck in behind the mechanism.

Shimano 105, 5800.

Shifting was poor yesterday, went to replace cable.

Cannot get the head of the cable out, it's not in the correct place in the shifter and seems to have gone in behind the moving piece.

New shifter time?

Co-incidentally the other (left) shifter seems a bit off, shifting down to the small chainring isn't crisp, taking nearly 2 pushes on lever.
2 new shifters needed?

Have a big spin planned Saturday so not got time to order in stuff really.

magicbastarder

Any chance of a photo of the issue?

Wildly Boaring

Can try tomorrow.
It's very hard get a photo. You can just make out the head of the cable stuck up in behind the part of the mech that turns.

The cable just comes through from the back and stops

I'll have a look tomorrow maybe i can get at it from underneath

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIidcR-dxGI

Mundo7976

You could try pushing from the other side with a straight pick, try to coax it out.

The left may simply need a new cable.

Wildly Boaring

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123610882#Comment_123610882

Tried thanks even got a nail into the cable and lightly tapped with a hammer. Pretty stuck

07Lapierre

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123610796#Comment_123610796

I had the same issue with an Ultegra shifter. On The Ultegra shifter you can unscrew a plate which gives you access to the ratchet mechanism. The plate is under the shifter.

JMcL

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123611049#Comment_123611049

There's similar on the side of 105 shifters. I had an issue a few years ago where the original grease had solidified to the point where it wouldn't upshift (common enough Shimano issue apparently). Unscrewing that plate let me douse the shifter first with degreaser, then with new lube. You have to peel the hood right back to get at it if memory serves

07Lapierre

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123611344#Comment_123611344

yes you have to take the rubber hood off the shifter completely.