This is the one I have in my cart! It was this one I was considering... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005201365318.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.d0ce15a4tYw0ZP&algo_pvid=f81fb4ff-4bf8-444c-b8b0-032643292d64&algo_exp_id=f81fb4ff-4bf8-444c-b8b0-032643292d64-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2178.41%2138.42%21%21%21610.23%21%21%402101d91e16934895434734900eeffe%2112000032131527808%21sea%21IE%21707179032%21&curPageLogUid=i3E0Bsf7qM77
It'll be the solid finest, I'd say
Similar but not the same as mine, it will be absolutely grand.
Ok, a question that makes me think that bottom bracket tools are pure folly to me, as I'm second guessing this one....
46 - 30 chainset (16 teeth difference); 36 - 11 cassette (25 teeth difference); will be ok (but the max cassette) of rear derailleur with a 41 teeth limit?
Are you asking is the rear derailleur with a limit of 41 teeth is OK with that cassette? If so the answer is yes
Just swapped my tyres on my CX bike (Schwalbe X One Allround 33mm) and I notice a 1mm gap between the rim and tyres in places, despite fully pumping to desired pressure with trackpump, I can see the blue rim tape in one spot in front wheel, and multiple spots in back wheel. First time removing the tyres since I bought it about 6 months ago, will those gaps fill out if I cycle it or should I remove and try again?
no, i've never heard of that happening before. photo?
clearly the pressure in the tyre is not pushing the bead up against the rim?
Is it just a case of the tyres not seating properly. If so I find partially deflating the tyres and exerting hand pressure at the problem locations to reseat them usually works. Then pump again.
Ok I spun both wheels and they are bulging and wobbly all over the place, obviously not road worthy 😳
Idk never had this happen before on previous bikes. When I first deflated them, there was a pop sound as I squeezed in the flat tyres, they felt like they were stuck to the rim. Putting tyres back on, both beads are pretty much in the centre of the rim and wont move all they way back on inflating the tyres. When I bought bike guy in shop said they were tubeless ready, but it came with tubes installed. Anyway I'll keep trying, maybe just extra elbow grease to get them seated properly, thanks.
If they’re tubeless, you’ll usually need to put more pressure in than the recommended to get them seated, and get the air in fast. Remove the valve core and pump as fast as you can. Or else use co2 canisters.
What are you using to inflate them?
I've never used tubeless and not sure how they work, just the guy in shop told me they were tubeless ready but recommended me to keep using tubes which is what came with it.
Track pump, I may go with the soapy water method
Apologies. I assumed you were setting them up tubeless.
Soapy water is worth a go but (anecdotally, I know) I found it difficult to set up Panaracers(typically tubeless) with tubes, felt like the bead never seated fully
Got them sorted, got loan of a compressor gun and the tyres all aligned perfectly, my track pump isn't worth a shite 😅 thanks all
I use a compressor to seat my tubeless tyres, it's a no brainer 😂
Sorry thought you meant you were setting them up tubeless.
Tubeless ready tyres typically have a bit of a stiffer bead, just to make it less likely they pop off the rim and get a better seal so need a blast of air to seat the bead. Glad you got sorted, I’d probably carry co2 canisters just in case you get a flat when you’re out and struggle to get it back on and seated with a hand pump though.
Actually I tell a lie, I notice one section of the front tyre still isn't quite right on the rim, the mini compressor only has max of 40psi, if I can get something that pumps to 70psi (max for tyre), it should smooth that out right?
Yeah, an actual compressor, if you can get access.
As I've offered to others before, if you're close to me, I can give you a dig out
I think I know someone with one, but thanks!
Fairy liquid along the rim and pump them up to 80psi, I had the same issue with the same tyres, I just had to over pump them by a lot.
Lately my rear hydraulic brake is sticking as I apply it, as I pull the lever I meet resistance quickly and if I pull slightly harder it kind of pops and the brake applies suddenly. The pop is audible around the brake itself. If I haven't cycled in a couple of days it's worse, after squeezing a couple of times the resistance reduces and there's only a slight bump as I apply the brake.
Any ideas? Have the bike three and a half years and haven't serviced the brakes, might just throw it into the local shop since I don't have any tools for hydraulic brakes and don't have a clue about them tbh.
Check the pads aren't worn first, at 3 years they probably are. Change them, force the pistons back in with the face of a flathead screwdriver. If that doesn't solve it, bleed the brakes if you know how to (or just refill them if it doesn't look like gunk as you drain them).
Interesting, I was talking to a guy at work who said I'd never have to replace my pads unless I was mountain biking downhill every day, same with bleeding. But then again he is kind of addicted to new bikes, so slightly different use cases. I don't have the fluid or connections for an oil change so might have to head to the bike shop. Thanks.
Your friend is so immensely wrong it's actually shocking, I strongly suspect that it the most likely culprit as bleeding brakes is rarely needed unless you are descending mountains or have left it idle for years.
Change the pads and come back before going to the bike shop.
Hello! The freehub on my commuter Giant bike has started bleeding a lovely rusty brown liquid after less than a year of use.
So it looks like I have to replace it.
Anyone have any idea on how I get the damn thing off? On previous bikes, I was able to put an allen key down the center and wrench it off. But this has a smooth bore.
Ive tried putting the cassette back on, lightly tightening it, and lifting the cassette off with the freehub, but no bueno.
The only option I can see is two cone type nuts on the non-drive side. Do I have to loosen these? If so, any idea what size cone spanners I have to buy for the two? They both look to be an 18mm but im not too sure.
Try gripping and pulling the spacer protruding from the freehub. It may be just a pushfit.
If you can get it off, you may get away with servicing the freehub, depending on the condition of the internals
Cheers for the tips. I tried that but it was no go :-(
I ended up grinding down two 15mm cone spanners to turn them into 17mm. I was able to use them to take off the two nuts on the non-drive side and then pull the tube through.
This allowed me to knock out the rubber seal and bearing on the non-drive side. This exposed a 15mm allen inside the freehub that could be loosened clockwise from the non-drive side. This dropped out the freehub.
I pulled out the bearing from the drive side of the freehub
But, unfortunately, it doesnt look like the main freehub can be services. Its the bearings inside this that appear to be gone.
So I will have to replace the freehub.
Would anyone have any idea if these would be covered under warranty when the bike is less than a year old? Or are they servicable parts, like brake pads?
i had the bearings replaced in a freehub earlier in the year (€40 as compared to the €80-€90 for freehub replacement), so that's an option.
but i'd be on to the shop, i've a bike which is still on its original freehub and bearings, and i've had it approx 8 years. i can't say they'll honour a warranty but maybe they could meet you halfway.
They are wear and tear but they shouldn't wear and tear that easily. That looks like a freehub that went through a river and was left sitting for a few weeks
Tidy!
Looks complex compared to most other manufacturers these days!
Sometimes the internal bearing is held in by a circlip that can be hidden by grease/grime. Once the clip is removed, the bearing can be replaced.
I know Mavic have exploded diagrams of their hubs online, you could search the Giant one to see if the bearing can be removed.
Or alternatively, order a new freehub I guess. I doubt a shop would entertain the wheel coming in in ten pieces...
