the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118945566#Comment_118945566

You'll want a either a chain breaker or quick release pliers for the chain replacement (needle nose pliers can be made work, but there's a knack to it)

Allan keys should suffice if the jockey wheels need replacing. You'll need a specific cassette tool for the cassette

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118945566#Comment_118945566

I’d say if you fancy doing some servicing and bits and bobs on the bike, start by picking up the basic tools mentioned above.

CRC and other outlets have tool sets that include all the commonly used tools in one box. At a guess, it may be €50.

Once you have the basics, you can pick up more complex tools as the need arises.

I was lucky starting off, my sister and her fella left me a tool chest when they emigrated..

BarrowBoard

Any tips on stopping pad rub on a set of TRP HYRDs. I got a replacement set under warranty & mounted them as per instructions, but no matter what I do, I can't stop the pads rubbing. Centred them by pulling the brakes whilst loose, ensured pistons were pushed back, and the rotors are new too, so shouldn't be warped. Never had to worry about bedding in the pads before, but that's all I can think of now - just ride with the rub and hope that it stops when they wear a bit. Any other tips/hints would be greatly appreciated.

magicbastarder

are they rubbing on both sides? might it be possible you've a slight warp in the disc?

BarrowBoard

It seems to be a constant rub on both sides - on rim brakes, I'd ease off tension on the cable, but that's a no-no for the TRPs. Rotor/Disks are new, so shouldn't be warped, pistons are fully reset, so I'm at a complete loss. Even my thoughts of wearing the pads down a bit shouldn't work in theory due to the self-adjusting qualities of the HyRds.

nicksnikita

I know next to nothing about disc brakes so this may be a stupid suggestion but could your discs be too thick?

magicbastarder

is it like that without the cable attached? if not, i'd suspect too much cable tension; are you able to to release tension with the cable adjuster?

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118949962#Comment_118949962

I know it's not the same system, but with cable actuated calipers, it's possible to sometimes slightly engage the lever arm, by accident, when securing the cable.

I'd be inclined to redo all the steps involved in running the cable again, just to be sure.

A good rule of thumb that has helped me on many occasions is "Never trust the work that went before you, especially if it's your own"

BarrowBoard

Yeah, it's tight even with cable loose. But I've always been told that for TRPs, before playing with the cable, you have to lock the actuating arm (the locking mechanism is on the right side of the unit in your photo) and that adjusting tension on the cable is only to adjust amount of play in the brake lever. Apparently if you adjust the cable tension without locking the actuating arm, it can affect the hydraulic piston.

cletus

Maybe a stupid question, but have you unlocked the actuator arm afterwards? I think you have to, anyway

Ok, this is really verging on the limit of "no such thing as a stupid question".

I have only got into cycling in the last 2 or 3 years (I learnt to ride when I was over 50). I have a couple of fairly cheap Argos folding bikes, they do the job for holidays OK. However the wife wants a new saddle, the original one is small and quite uncomfortable. I'm looking at some average leisure saddles at the likes of Decathon, but my question is (having never changed one) - do all saddles fit all bikes ?

magicbastarder

generally; the standard nowadays is for saddles to have two rails underneath, which are held on by a clamp on the seatpost; you can see the rails in this product shot, and if the bike currently uses this system, it's standardised, so any saddle with rails should do:

https://www.halfords.ie/cycling/saddles-seat-posts/halfords-urban-saddle-355238.html

CramCycle

There are of course exceptions but a mass produced bike typically will be as MB has described

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118951898#Comment_118951898

Yeah, I see the rails, thanks for the replies.

Roberto_gas

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118945426#Comment_118945426

I had similar issue and it was hanger alignment after bike fell on drive side...but in your case it looks like chain wear...you can use a normal ruler to measure the stretched chain...search online.

Brian?

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118943420#Comment_118943420

There is no best type.

I’ve been through dozens of different ones, my current favourite is the own brand Decathlon bar tape. Just the right about of sticky and stretchy, wears really well and it’s cheap. The one I hate the most is lizard skin.

SRAM super cork was good and Zipp Service course. But I’m not sure they’re worth the money over the Decathlon stuff.

FYI I’m super obsessive about bar tape. I change it way more often than most people and it has to look perfect.

Edit: do not double wrap. The only time to do that is with new tape over new tape when you’re preparing for the cobbled classics.

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118954706#Comment_118954706

That's all very well about the Decathlon bar tape, Brian, but does it come in orange???

Brian?

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118954725#Comment_118954725

It absolutely does!

devonp

another bike noise..??

end of my spin last week had a very def squeaky noise...no wheel rub on the brakes front or back (rim)

today cleaned bike and fitted new chain (due)...went for a spin..ok for 10km then started again ! ?

stopped bike got off lifted bike spun wheel forward..squeak! the squeak is worse when I'm on the saddle and also there when i pedal and lesser but still when i freewheel

squeak changed to a low rubbing/grinding later which lessened for the rest of the spin ??

Wheel is a DT swiss R23 spline with a campag freehub (which seems fine), 4-5 yrs old, brake track good.

any ideas ? I think wheel bearings ?

wheel doesn't owe my anything, got it in a clearance from Canyon to replace same (which i still have, badly worn brake track )

JMcL

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118943420#Comment_118943420

I'd remove the old tape, but what I generally do is cut a few strips and stick them (with a bit of electrical tape - just enough to hold them in place while wrapping) onto pressure points like the tops, and behind the hoods, then wrap the bars. Gives a nice bit of extra padding where it's needed

[edit] I find the BBB cork tape is durable, comfy, and cheap - https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/bbb-cork-race-ribbon-handlebar-tape/rp-prod46593

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118982890#Comment_118982890

Is the first one cup and cone? If so, the hub could be tightened up to stop the lateral movement. Cone spanners required for that job

If it’s got cartridge bearings, there should be a pre-load system which could also be tightened up, generally using an Allen key and a spanner or cone spanners

Re: the Zondas; did you notice any play before removing the freehub? Are you sure you included everything when you re-assembled it? I know in Mavic freehubs, there’s a little washer that has to be installed before fitting the freehub. Pretty sure it’s there in Zonda hubs also but it’s been awhile since I’ve had the freehub off my Zondas and can’t say for certain...

G1032

Folks

R7000 FD setup. I have full clearance in Big Big and Big Small combinations. Oceans of clearance. But in order to have clearance in Small Big, I have to really sacrifice clearance on Small Small side. Chain rub in smallest 4 sprockets when in small ring on front.

Thing is I can't get a trim to work for the small ring. It works perfectly for big ring. It's actually something Shimano tell us to expect with R7000, R8000 FD. See attached photo.

But any tips or tricks to allow me get clearance in the small ring for at least all but bottom 2 sprockets?

Roadtoad

Has anyone here used a nice clamp attachment for fitting a carrier to a road bike that doesn't have eyelets?

I could jury-rig something ugly, but I'd prefer a shop bought gadget.

magicbastarder

i think generally c-clips or p-clips is the way to go?

JMcL

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119032945#Comment_119032945

Tailfin (https://www.tailfin.cc) do some really nice, albeit pricey, solutions for this. I've never seen one in the flesh but they review very well. MBs suggestion would certainly be the more wallet friendly option

kirving

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118991838#Comment_118991838

If cable tension adjustment is working on one ring, but not the other, it's most likely the limit switches that need adjusting. Not the case with your R7000 FD I don't think, but often manufacturers spec a 3X lever, with a 2X Front Derailleur (FD), (or the standard levers are often 3X?).

Cube did that for me, so I now have to choose whether to use Lever 1-2, or Lever 2-3 for my FD position 1-2. But since I have an extra click available, I use lever click 2-3 for FD 1-2, but I adjust it in such a way as that this suits Small, Small, and Big, Small.

If I'm ever in Small, Big (climbing sharply on the MTB), and I get chain rub, I drop to Lever click 1, and allow the FD to sit on it's lower limit switch. The cable is now slack and takes me 2 clicks to come out of it. I should to go to 1x12, but a new groupset isn't cheap!

G1032

I'll have to video it. When I 'trim' the low position I can actually see the cable slacken but the derailleur doesn't move any further inboard. The consequence of this is that I have to set the low limit on what's effectively the 'non-trimmed' position.

G1032

Here's a video to explain it better. See when I click into the low trim that the cable slackens off but the derailleur doesn't move

https://1drv.ms/v/s!Akk2mjjNlxAbgccF3uS4KN0zLLr-1w

JunkedMail

I won a bike in work which was delivered to me in a box. The bike is a Carrera Crossfire 1 (which I assume is a low to mid range bike considering its retail value). I have assembled the bike but I'm not happy with the gears. The front derailleur isn't working properly and needs to be adjusted. Anyone know any indy bike service guys in the Newbridge area? I had a go myself and don't want to make a mess of it when I don't really know what I'm at.

I had a road bike 10 years ago but sent it for servicing before selling when I moved abroad. The local bike shop always gave problems and eventually I used a local guy who is no longer in the area.

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119038483#Comment_119038483

If you could get to Kildare town, Lukasz in Apex Cycles is excellent.

If you do feel like giving it a shot, this is my go-to video

https://youtu.be/UkZxPIZ1ngY