the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

flatface

Yeh definitely no b-screw on it. Just not sure how to adjust without it. I see similar problem mentioned here: https://www.mtbr.com/threads/help-no-b-tension-screw-on-shimano-tourney-rear-derailluer-rd-ft30.863294/

but not sure how the housing loop should be to adjust the angle.

wersal gummage

Mudguard question...

Asked one of these before and no answer so I'm guessing limited interest again but would appreciate any input..

Does anyone have experience of fitting a front mudguard with a daruma bolt rather than an L bracket? If so I have a question or two!

Luxman

Chainring Question,

I have a worn out 52/36 combo, need to replace it. I want to keep the 36 (for hills) and bump the 52 to a 53. Its an older version Ultegra 6800 di2 setup. Will the front derailleur need adjusting (height) for this? Thanks

magicbastarder

i think that's officially not supported, but i can't see a huge issue - except that you're gaining really very little there? less than 2% difference. do you max out the 52 much?

Luxman

ah not really max out no, but thought I would gain a bigger difference with the 53. I will still with the 52 , thanks

Elvis Hammond

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118101745#Comment_118101745

The derailer in your photo has been knocked back clockwise where the black part attaches to the shiny grey part. The cable loop I'd say will be fine once this is remedied.

devonp

Disc brake pad replacement ....

have the old Sram Apex 1x pads out and have the new kit (pads same type organic resin, spring, bolt/screw and circlip) do i need to push back the pistons ?

and if so can i use a plastic tyre lever (or 2 tied together) ?

Raymzor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118040905#Comment_118040905

Hi there, did you buy new wheels? If so what did you buy? I was thinking of changing the wheels on my attain! Cheers

ARX

My Wippermann Connex quick link came apart on the road (I stopped at a traffic light and noticed that my chain was hanging off). Anyone have one of these fail? I had a spare KMC link so was able to get home.

magicbastarder

new issue on the bike today, out on the winter bike for the first time in two weeks and the downshift on the right shifter would fail most of the time - it'd usually work on the third or fourth attempt. almost feels like the downshift lever was not connected to any mechanism. i haven't had a chance to look at it, but i suspect the two main things to check would be an issue with the shifter itself or maybe the cable is sticking in the housing - as the downshift is a release of tension, maybe if the cable doesn't move, the shifter would feel like that as there's no tension in the cable to pull on the mechanism to operate it?

crosstownk

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118237691#Comment_118237691

I'm experiencing similar with my Shimano 105 5800 set up when I attempt to release tension. It's happening with both levers despite fairly new cables and mechs. I was putting it down to my clumsy fingers now that I'm wearing bulky winter gloves.

magicbastarder

mine is 5800 also. also using heavy winter gloves for the first time today...

magicbastarder

and of course, when i took the bike out just now to try to troubleshoot, it was nearly impossible to reproduce the issue. of probably 100 downshifts, a single one failed.

cletus

Does your shifter cable run underneath your bottom bracket shell? I had an issue before where the cable guide got blocked with shîte from the road, shifting became quite unreliable

magicbastarder

actually, i'm going to take the bike out now for a spin, so that's something i'll try before i leave - just a light dab of lube on the cable runners under the BB.

Mundo7976

I find when wearing gloves if I tip off the up shifter when trying to downshift at all then there zero action on the shifter until the second press

CianRyan

A bit of a "how long is a piece of string" but...

Would anyone know the clamp diameter for the stem of a 2006 Trek 1200sl?

I need a shorter stem I've noticed the word over sized popping up and I don't want to order a part that won't fit.

Doing a Charity spin on Sunday and I've had some foot and nut numbness I've been trying to dial out.

magicbastarder

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118240078#Comment_118240078

much better today, though i was wearing lighter gloves.

maybe my lever was just shrivelled and inoperative in the cold yesterday.

crosstownk

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118239258#Comment_118239258

It happened to me a fair few times today - both levers - obviously a few more instances on the rear shifter. The tension release lever just moves like there was no cable attached. When I try it a second time it works perfectly.

So based on this thread I tried to 'simulate' the problem. Not a chance - it has mind of it's own. I did have the same bulky gloves on for what that's worth.

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118244851#Comment_118244851

Of absolutely no benefit, but if they're that hard to get on, is there any chance you punched the tube while installing?

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118242538#Comment_118242538

I’ve found in the past that this is usually a result of something blocking the little metal paddle that’s moved by the black plastic finger paddle you press to shift to a harder gear at the rear.

Make sure the path is clear of the hood/a stray bit of bartape or dirt. And if there’s no visible obstruction, flush the area with wd40 or similar

DaveyDave

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118245052#Comment_118245052

I had a hard time getting Pirelli Cinturato Velo on Fulcrum Racing 4 after my first puncture. Reminded me of the Marathon Plus on. Sore thumbs, wrists, blisters etc. With that amount of fussing about its inevitable to pinch the tube in the process as you get more and more fed up. First week of having a puncture resistant tyre I got a puncture, couldn't get the tyre back on and needed a lift...

Only heard of a tyre jack now but might be worth buying.

https://youtu.be/-EZRSz1DlHg

DaveyDave

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118248345#Comment_118248345

I've seen a few people say they're useless but the majority feel very strongly about them. I did see a tip to flip tyre levers around so they don't dig in as much when going back on but I've lost all my good levers and only using cheap ones at the moment so might try a tyre jack first before investing in a quality set of new levers.

07Lapierre

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118240644#Comment_118240644

On a cold day a few years ago, i had an issue with a freehub. the grease was frozen and prevented the pawls from moving, which left me with no drive. I bounced the bike a few times and they engaged and this got me home. My point is the cold can cause things to stick/not work and then the next day...they work and don't give any other issues.

Mind you, it could also be a frayed cable inside the shifter, so if your cables are a year or more old, id replace them anyway.

magicbastarder

they're several years old at this point, so that was also on the agenda.

crosstownk

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118245852#Comment_118245852

They're definitely not jammed. The cables seem fine - replaced 18 months ago and I don't really use this bike during the summer. Both levers work fine - it's just that every now and then when I press the 'tension release' paddle (of either shifter), it moves like it isn't connected to anything. Press it a second time and it shifts perfectly. It started when I moved to full winter gloves so I'm thinking it's possible the colder temperature that causes it - that or the bulky gloves but I can't really see how they would affect the lever action....?

It's not a massive problem - just something I've noticed and the engineer in me becomes obsessed with stuff like this 🙄

gaffmaster

I have an Ultegra 6800 RH Lever that does exactly the same thing - try to shift down and it doesn't catch the mechanism. I wonder if there's a lever arm worn down or something that isn't catching? You can achieve the same thing by moving the brake lever in a fraction then trying to shift with the little lever, and it'll move without engaging - that'll give anyone who isn't experiencing it an idea of how it feels.

DaveyDave

Do saddles lose shape over time? The reason I ask is because the bike on the turbo is giving me hassle. I've adjusted the angle several times, bib shorts, no bib shorts, just not finding it comfortable.

The nose on the older one seems to go up ever so slightly, crude drawing example below. After adjusting the tilt down in small increments it's starting to make my position feel unnatural but still feel slight pressure, can't use drops. I'm starting to shift around a lot. Should I just spend the day adjusting things or should I just get a new saddle? The one I have on my ebike has a huge cutout, less padding and a flatter profile and I don't have an issue on it (albeit outside so not in the saddle as much as the turbo, but I definitely feel more even support)

nicksnikita

I’ve known saddle shells to fracture on the underside but that would be obvious if you were to press down or sit on it.

I suppose they do wear over time but I’m currently running Selle Italia SLRs from the mid ‘00s with countless kms and they’re still going strong, albeit discolored and scuffed.

Was the bike comfortable on the turbo in the past? Maybe you could switch the saddle from your comfortable bike onto the uncomfortable one and see if that does the trick.

nicksnikita

This video may also be worth a look...

https://youtu.be/aigF5z_EvQM