Philips Hue FAQ

Roen

paulbok wrote: »

I don't think they work within Hue, I have a few Aeon labs relays and Hue doesn't pick them up.
I use Samsung smartthings as a master controller and it picks up both Hue and the Aeon devices, and will pick up Fibaro too (not lightwaverf though).

I'm not familiar with Elgato, but after having a quick look at their site it does what you want via the outlet sockets or wall switches, however they do look to only work on US power supply of 120V so won't work here on 220V.

Hi Paul,

I have a Samsung smartthings hub that arrived last week (not installed yet). Can you mix and match platforms with the sensors? i.e. My table lamp comes on with my Hue motion sensor but will that Philips sensor then trigger the smartthings power socket to come on and thereby light up the floor lamp?

I'm using Home Assistant for a centralised solution and not sure what smartthings support is like in that.

Orion

OU812 wrote: »

Really ? anytime I've tried it, it won't work outside of wifi

Works fine for me.

paulbok

Roen wrote: »

Hi Paul,

I have a Samsung smartthings hub that arrived last week (not installed yet). Can you mix and match platforms with the sensors? i.e. My table lamp comes on with my Hue motion sensor but will that Philips sensor then trigger the smartthings power socket to come on and thereby light up the floor lamp?

I'm using Home Assistant for a centralised solution and not sure what smartthings support is like in that.

I have a few just Hue & Aeon labs/Aeotec switched working with the smartthings environment (and Amazon Alexa).
The hue lights pair and work very well but the smart apps that are used to control your light etc routines through Smartthings are rubbish. I had believed I hadn't them setup correctly but having looked into the Smartthings community forums, the default ones just don't work as intended.
there is great support for working around this on the ST community but involves using the ST development IDE to create new device handlers ( which also allow support for devices that ST doesn't natively handle) and then your ST app will pick them up.
Going back to you original question on the Hue sensor, Smartthings will pick it up but thats about it without delving into the IDE world (not as daunting as it looks - all the code is provides to copy by kind posters - you just need to tweak with you own passwords say for the Hue bridge).
The ST motion sensor that comes with the starter kit has more options than the Hue one for setting up but is temperamental. I hope to sort all my ST issues over the Xmas and intend to post up a Smartthing FAQ in the next few days to get it going in this forum.

Roen

Thanks Paul.
I shouldn't have a problem hacking about with the code.
I appreciate the reply

Roen

Right,

I can't see the motions sensors directly in the app itself. However I got the automation I wanted working.
I set the power socket to come on based on whether the living room lamp is on or off. The lamp in turn is triggered by a Hue motion sensor.

So when I walk in the Hue motion sensor triggers the table lamp depending on the light level. That in turn switches on the socket, which lights up the floor lamp.
Bit of a roundabout way of doing it. Be far cleaner if you could just have a Hue sensor directly trigger the floor lamp.

Have to say the app is not brilliantly designed. THat said it's my first proper poke at it and I got what I wanted from it. So can't be all that bad!

paulbok

Roen wrote: »

Thanks Paul.
I shouldn't have a problem hacking about with the code.
I appreciate the reply

You're welcome.
let us know how you get on with SmartThings and Home Assistant.

Roen

paulbok wrote: »

You're welcome.
let us know how you get on with SmartThings and Home Assistant.

Will do, I'll post in the ST thread you will be creating if there isn't one about already. Now, let's get the thread back on track with Hue stuff!

Stillnotworking

Hi there, If you get the E27 starter kit, can you add in the Bayonet bulbs later? Or are you stuck with the starter style?

Thanks

OU812

Stillnotworking wrote: »

Hi there, If you get the E27 starter kit, can you add in the Bayonet bulbs later? Or are you stuck with the starter style?

Thanks

You can add up to a total of 50 bulbs in any configuration.

Irish Gunner

Ordered the below and have to collect them on Monday

 https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B01LZ8QYPI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 I have Bayonet lights and looking if the below would suffice

 http://www.ikea.com/ie/en/products/lighting/light-bulbs-accessories/koppla-b22-to-e27-bulb-converter-art-90295615/

 Or is it these ones?

 http://www.ikea.com/ie/en/products/lighting/light-bulbs-accessories/koppla-b15-to-e14-bulb-converter-art-70296574/

 Also got the 3 bulbs initially is Amazon best place to get additional ones as in mainland UK so not sure drop into John Lewis and pick up another as I get discounts there.

The Black Oil

Intrigued by this sort of thing and have read the thread. Only concern is the security of the product itself.

adox

I tempted to get a sensor and a couple of the new white ambient lights to add to the collection. Would be used in my hallway.

Anyone using the sensor? How are you finding it? Also are the newer white ambients worth the extra cost over the old "plain" white?

irelandrover

I'm using the sensor. Find it great. I use it behind a door so it triggers when the door is opened. Hasn't failed yet.

Palofmine

Hi all, question for you - is it possible to bridge distances between a hue strip light and a 1m extension piece? I want to light above and below my kitchen presses, which are in two blocks, seperated by an extractor unit . there's a power point above the units on one side and I'd like to run a wire across the extractor fan space... Hope this is clear.

Thanks

Roen

adox wrote: »

I tempted to get a sensor and a couple of the new white ambient lights to add to the collection. Would be used in my hallway.

Anyone using the sensor? How are you finding it? Also are the newer white ambients worth the extra cost over the old "plain" white?

I'm using three sensors. Best part of the whole Hue set up if you ask me!

They are tweakable on light level so they only trigger the light when it gets dim enough. Will take you a day or two to dial that down but once you do it's set and forget.

I don't have the plain Jane white ones but love the white ambiance. The sensor triggers a nice warm white during the evening and later at night they trigger a low reddish light so you don't fry your eyes.
I have the kitchen lights also on a dimmer so I can get a brighter bluer light for detail work if I'm arsing about at the table.

Have the main living areas of the house covered with sensors. I now begrudge having to touch a switch when I head out the back or into the jacks.

Would highly recommend the sensor.

*Edit* Will be adding a fourth sensor form the Samsung Smartthings starter pack to trigger lights upstairs too. So that will make 4 in total.

Roen

The Black Oil wrote: »

Intrigued by this sort of thing and have read the thread. Only concern is the security of the product itself.

In what respects? I know there were some hacks on them a while back but new firmware sorted that pronto. There's fairly frequent FW updates too.

Worst is they won't work and you swap them for the ones you took out IF something happens hack wise. Be different if they were smart locks and you could pop open your front door.

Roen

Palofmine wrote: »

Hi all, question for you - is it possible to bridge distances between a hue strip light and a 1m extension piece? I want to light above and below my kitchen presses, which are in two blocks, seperated by an extractor unit . there's a power point above the units on one side and I'd like to run a wire across the extractor fan space... Hope this is clear.

Thanks

Yes, easily DIY'd or you can get extenders too.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Hue/comments/3pj9dp/successfully_split_and_extended_the_hue_light/

Can't find the link for the cables on Amazon. Will post when I do. They are literally just plug and play.

*EDIT*
2 pack of 1M extenders

adox

Palofmine wrote: »

Hi all, question for you - is it possible to bridge distances between a hue strip light and a 1m extension piece? I want to light above and below my kitchen presses, which are in two blocks, seperated by an extractor unit . there's a power point above the units on one side and I'd like to run a wire across the extractor fan space... Hope this is clear.

Thanks

I have one lightstrip running across the top of the units with an extractor fan in the middle. Just have it running through the gap for the extractor fan on top.

The Black Oil

Roen wrote: »

In what respects? I know there were some hacks on them a while back but new firmware sorted that pronto. There's fairly frequent FW updates too.

Worst is they won't work and you swap them for the ones you took out IF something happens hack wise. Be different if they were smart locks and you could pop open your front door.

Talking to someone who said that - cloud managed by others (their servers) and that was a no go for him.

AndyBoBandy

Irish Gunner wrote: »

Ordered the below and have to collect them on Monday

 I have Bayonet lights and looking if the below would suffice

 http://www.ikea.com/ie/en/products/lighting/light-bulbs-accessories/koppla-b22-to-e27-bulb-converter-art-90295615/

These are the ones you want E27-B22

AndyBoBandy

adox wrote: »

I tempted to get a sensor and a couple of the new white ambient lights to add to the collection. Would be used in my hallway.

Anyone using the sensor? How are you finding it? Also are the newer white ambients worth the extra cost over the old "plain" white?

I have just set up my 2nd sensor, first one went in the kitchen, but then went to my office a few weeks later,
I don't like the fact that the sensor settings will override a routine you may have running at the time the sensor is activated, example;
early evening my kitchen lights are on (as per a routine I have set for a few hours), I then walk into the kitchen and nothing happens they are already on (though it's still detected my motion), but when the sensor detects no motion for a pre set amount of time, (in my case 5 minutes), it will turn all the kitchen lights off. I know I can set it to 10, 15, 20 minutes, or to do nothing when no motion is detected, but then in the middle of the night when the lights are normally off, and I want them to go off 5 minutes after detecting motion, it won't happen as I'll have set the app to do nothing in order to keep them on earlier when I want them to stay on via the routine I've set!

Anyway, that went into my office, and I ended up buying another sensor, which is gone back into the kitchen for round 2!!

I got onto them yesterday on their Facebook page (which in fairness to them, they usually respond within an hour or 2), and they did say it was a problem they were aware of, and hoping to work out soon in the next few updates.

Palofmine

Roen wrote: »

Yes, easily DIY'd or you can get extenders too.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Hue/comments/3pj9dp/successfully_split_and_extended_the_hue_light/

Can't find the link for the cables on Amazon. Will post when I do. They are literally just plug and play.

*EDIT*
2 pack of 1M extenders

That's fantastic - thanks a million!

Roen

The Black Oil wrote: »

Talking to someone who said that - cloud managed by others (their servers) and that was a no go for him.

It's not though. It stays entirely local unless you want to create an account and control it from outside your home.
I have it imported into a Home Assistant install and connect to that to control it when away from home.

That said I also have a hHue account and use that from time to time. Again though, it's a light. It doesn't have access to your bank account.

bk

Roen wrote: »

In what respects? I know there were some hacks on them a while back but new firmware sorted that pronto. There's fairly frequent FW updates too.

Worst is they won't work and you swap them for the ones you took out IF something happens hack wise. Be different if they were smart locks and you could pop open your front door.

Actually, worst that would happen hackwise is your hub getting hacked. You could just unplug the hub and continue to use the lights as standard lights with standard light switches.

You would lose the ability to control the fancy features until you updated the hub, but would still have "basic" lighting control.

The Black Oil wrote: »

Talking to someone who said that - cloud managed by others (their servers) and that was a no go for him.

As Roen pointed out, that person is wrong.

They are fully managed locally by the Hue hub/bridge. It is one of the advantages of this system. Even if your broadband/wifi goes down, you still have full local control over the lights (turn on/off/dimm/change colour, etc.).

The cloud service is only an optional service that you can use if you want to remotely control the lights, for instance if away on holidays. It can easily be disabled if it gets hacked, etc.

The Black Oil

Thanks both. Guess I need to find a good price for the starter kit now, eh? How about lamps, etc, that are not screw in, but are more like this or this?

bk

The Black Oil wrote: »

Thanks both. Guess I need to find a good price for the starter kit now, eh? How about lamps, etc, that are not screw in, but are more like this or this?

Your links are broken.

Hue bulbs come in both screw in e27 and bayonet style b22. You can use an e27 bulb in a b22 light fitting using an adaptor, though it will make it stick out further. However lamps usually use smaller light bulbs sizes then the ceiling type light bulbs. Currently hue has no bulbs suited to those sort of lamps.

The Black Oil

These sort of yolks are b22, I take it.

robindch

I was prompted by this post to get back to the question of how secure anybody's smart home is.

At my place, I've a bunch of Hue lightbulbs, a HeatMiser system which is about 50% working, a disconnected (experimental) Canary security camera and a few smart plugs on the way to control the electrical input to the immersion heater and the boiler overall. At best, security appears to be an afterthought with all of these systems, where it's present at all.

Problems are:

1. Hue - the recent worm attack is a problem for the underlying Zigbee protocol. At the app level, in order to activate your lights from outside your home, you must either (a) expose them to the internet and risk criminals knowing everything about your lights (ransom against damage/random usage, drop-in crime when lights are off, figuring out which houses have the largest installations); or (b) login to the Hue website and control them via that - I presume there's a secure link from the controller to the Hue site - lots of problems here anyway - what happens if the site goes down or gets hacked (see previous problem list). No idea if Hue's have default embedded access credentials, bricking bugs, remotely-triggered firmware update problems etc. They probably do.

2. HeatMiser - in 2014, a security researcher found that HeatMiser's security was crap. No idea if it's been fixed. There are similar risks to having your home heating system available over the internet as to having your home lighting available - criminals with access to presence information, house-size, geo-location, etc.

3. Canary - bought this off the Apple website and the thing is unbelievably intrusive - it demanded my home address and telephone number (you can proceed without both, but it nags you), I think it tried to geo-ip me, it won't work with a local media server and instead, uploaded all video to a server in the USA. There are so many security issues with this, I don't even know where to begin other than to ask if you'd enjoy criminals of different kinds seeing what goes on inside your house while knowing exactly where the house is. Here's an article from yesterday's Farmer's Journal yesterday on CCTV-related security problems in the farming sector. I left the Canary running for a day or two just to see whether the service was useful (it is), then unplugged it permanently. BTW, the Canary only retains the previous 12 hours or so of footage - if you want more than that, then you've to buy a $50/year subscription.

To control the above devices, my home network is firewalled (to block random attacks from outside probably better than the Virgin Media Horizon box might do) and more directly usefully, it's providing a VPN so that when I'm not at home, my phone can connect securely to the firewall box and be persuaded to think that it's actually on the home network and I can then control heating and the other stuff via the usual mobile apps.

At a basic level, I would recommend that nobody port-forwards from their broadband box to smart devices as they then become open to attack from outside. If they're accessible without port-forwarding, then I recommend blocking the ports on the broadband box for the same reason. If the device supplier provides a website through which you can control your devices, I recommend deleting/closing the account. Geofencing, which is supported on a few systems (I believe Nest + Canary) is a criminal's wet dream

Be aware also that some devices harvest and aggregate usage data - potentially for nefarious purposes, especially if the information is leaked or hacked.

Thoughts?

AndyBoBandy

The Black Oil wrote: »

These sort of yolks are b22, I take it.

Yes, B22 = Bayonet 22mm (the most common type in Ireland)

E27= Edison screw 27mm

Stillnotworking

OU812 wrote: »

You can add up to a total of 50 bulbs in any configuration.

Thanks for that, wanted to make sure.