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KKVs Rav4 project
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Well I took back the Halfords Oil and swapped it to the one ToyotaAvensis linked to above:
http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_253905_langId_-1_categoryId_212419
So hopefully that should be that sorted now.
toyotaavensis wrote: »KKV you said the last service was 9000 miles ago. Do you do mainly highway driving or do you spend a lot of your time in stop go traffic. If you are doing a lot of stop starty driving then you should be chaning the oil a bit more often.
Mostly stop-go and town driving with the rare motorway appearance for an hour or so once or twice a month.
My mechanic gave the car a service when I first got it, at 88k miles. He put a sticker on it and in general conversation, was saying that the best thing to do is come back to him for another service in 12 months or 10k miles (whichever comes first).
So I just followed that advice, really. This is me just learning about this side of cars now. I've never known anything about any of this kinda stuff.0 -
Deleted User wrote: »Well I took back the Halfords Oil and swapped it to the one ToyotaAvensis linked to above:
http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_253905_langId_-1_categoryId_212419
So hopefully that should be that sorted now.
Mostly stop-go and town driving with the rare motorway appearance for an hour or so once or twice a month.
My mechanic gave the car a service when I first got it, at 88k miles. He put a sticker on it and in general conversation, was saying that the best thing to do is come back to him for another service in 12 months or 10k miles (whichever comes first).
So I just followed that advice, really. This is me just learning about this side of cars now. I've never known anything about any of this kinda stuff.
Glad you are sorted with the oil and since it is such a small difference in price is would go for the right stuff.
If you are doing all stop start driving then you count as severe driving. Here is the schedule for the avensis. The 1zzfe engine is your engine so a lot of it will be relevant. You will probably find the one for the rav is very similar as they have the same engine.
http://www.oil-club.ru/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/zamena-masla-v-akpp-avensis.pdf
In severe driving the oil should be changed every 7500km's (4600 miles). This is why mine gets changed every 5000 miles.0 -
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Deleted User wrote: »The brake pads will be weather dependent. If the wheels come off, they're getting a good thorough cleaning, and I'm not putting myself through that if i can't do it outside on a nice day :P
From what I can see though (well, guess, as I have never done anything like this before), out of the list:
Oil
Oil filter
Air Filter
Spark plugs
Only the oil seems like it's actually got any work involved? I plan to youtube all of the above and go from there (and hopefully get help from someone on here to verify im looking at the right thing on youtube first).
It takes about 4mins a corner to check the brakes and well worth doing, Particularly when you haven't before
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The normal procedure is to drain the oil, change the oil filter, the refill the oil dipping it and being careful not to over fill it with oil. Then replace the air filter. Make sure you have the oil cap on and all that before starting the engine. Once you first start the engine leave it idle for a minute or so to let the oil get around the engine (in other words don't get in start the engine and rev it straight away). You can then dip the oil again and top it up if needed as the level will drop a bit as the filter has to fill with oil. Also before you drain the oil make sure the engine is hot as obviously got oil is more viscous and will flow drain better. When tightening sump nut filter don't over tighten them. They don't need to be tightened as hard as you can just enough so they won't loosen and will seal properly.
Sump nut.. is that the 'proper' name of the piece you undo to let the oil escape under the engine (to drain it)?
Also, this was posted earlier on,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xFOWGTpLggo
It's an oil and oil filter change on my model of Rav. Presumably the process for after the oil is drained, is to just screw on the new filter and to use the same old 'sump nut' (assuming im thinking of the right thing when I say sump nut) that was already on it.
Then you're ready to put the new oil in, yeah? you dont need to use anything between oils or such to completely wash the old oil out?
(Silly question but better safe than sorry) 0 -
Deleted User wrote: »Sump nut.. is that the 'proper' name of the piece you undo to let the oil escape under the engine (to drain it)?
Also, this was posted earlier on,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xFOWGTpLggo
It's an oil and oil filter change on my model of Rav. Presumably the process for after the oil is drained, is to just screw on the new filter and to use the same old 'sump nut' (assuming im thinking of the right thing when I say sump nut) that was already on it.
Then you're ready to put the new oil in, yeah? you dont need to use anything between oils or such to completely wash the old oil out? (Silly question but better safe than sorry)
Usually called a sump plug. Note that there is a washer on the plug. This is replaced by some people (I never do and have never had a leak on any car) but it is important to re-fit it with the plug. The plug should be tight but there is no need to kill it. Definitely tighten it with no more force than it took to remove.
The filter should have a smear of oil put around the rubber ring and make sure the rubber is correctly fitted into its groove (it most lightly will be and you'll be able to push it in by hand if it's not). Only put the filter on hand tight. Personally I run it down until the seal hits and then turn it about another 3/4 of a turn, just make sure it won't fall off.
On the first start of the engine it may take longer than normal for the oil light to go out and it might be noticeably louder than normal. This is normal after an oil change as the oil has to fill the filter before any pressure is generated.0 -
Deleted User wrote: »Sump nut.. is that the 'proper' name of the piece you undo to let the oil escape under the engine (to drain it)?
Also, this was posted earlier on,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xFOWGTpLggo
It's an oil and oil filter change on my model of Rav. Presumably the process for after the oil is drained, is to just screw on the new filter and to use the same old 'sump nut' (assuming im thinking of the right thing when I say sump nut) that was already on it.
Then you're ready to put the new oil in, yeah? you dont need to use anything between oils or such to completely wash the old oil out? (Silly question but better safe than sorry)
Yep that's a sump nut where the oil drains out. You could replace the sump nut every few services but there shouldn't be and need to. However the sump washer is a different story I normally change that every service or so. I do t know where you get them other than main dealers as that where I get mine. The sump washer goes on the nut and ends up in between the sump and the nut head , like any washer does. You dont need to rinse the engine with anything. You will never get 100% of the oil out that's just the way it is. Just be careful when screwing back in the sump washer as some cars have aluminium sumps and the thread can be cross threaded/ damaged if your not careful when screwing it in.0 -
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That's perfect. I'll go be going through it all very slowly and triple checking things anyway. Last thing I need to feck up is an oil change and wreck the ending :P
I assume changing the air filter is as easy as changing the pollen filter (just a case of finding it, literally snapping it off a holder, replacing it, and putting it back where I found it)?
I can't seem to find much on the spark plugs though - Wouldn't happen to also be called coil packs? That comes up in a Youtube search but can't seem to find anything directly related to spark plugs. 0 -
Deleted User wrote: »That's perfect. I'll go be going through it all very slowly and triple checking things anyway. Last thing I need to feck up is an oil change and wreck the ending :P
I assume changing the air filter is as easy as changing the pollen filter (just a case of finding it, literally snapping it off a holder, replacing it, and putting it back where I found it)?
I can't seem to find much on the spark plugs though - Wouldn't happen to also be called coil packs? That comes up in a Youtube search but can't seem to find anything directly related to spark plugs.
Spark plugs are under the coils 0 -
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I found this (spark plug) video. Not the same Rav as mine, but I'll assume the process is much the same? Video is pretty poor but gives a rough idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRIN91NCBTo
Avensis, from your list, the following are comments I'd add:
Greasing the door hinges - Not something I'm overly concerned about as this was done when I first got it about 6-8 months ago.
Give her a wash and clean - Don't get me started on this! :mad: :P (I'm having a lot of polishing hassle with it).
Check tyre pressures - What is this? 32psi?
Check tyre thread depth - Ah sure, it'll be grand :P (none need changing, but i'd say in 6 months I'll be taking off the front two and binning them).
Check tyre conditons make sure there are no visual damaged parts with bulges or cracks etc - Just have something stuck in my back right tyre. Screw possibly. Will get it fixed during the week.
Clean the battery terminals - No idea where to start on this, but sounds like an interesting one to do. Any real benefit to it?
Check the belts under the bonnet look ok (only one on the Rav 4) - Only one and it's squealy as fcuk first thing in the morning (for the first 2 minutes of driving, then it's grand). Have been told it needs to be tightened, but the type of belt that's in it can't be tightened, so it just needs to be replaced. Was also told it's not a real issue, in that nothing will go wrong with it, but i've been wanting to change it anyway. If I service her properly, I'll look into doing this myself).
Make sure that the coolant level in the over flow tank is at the full mark - Don't know what the overflow tank is, to be honest.
When cold open the radiator cap and top up the coolant - Will have to do this, also. I'd have thought this would be part of a normal full service?
Check the brake fluid is between the min and max, Top up screen wash reservoir, If you have power steerin fluid (i dont think you do) check it is topped up - These all seem to be within their normal spots, but is there any way of knowing if they could be a problem waiting to happen at all? (like you say below about the brake fluid being black).
When looking at fluids make sure they look ok - if brake fluid is very black change it - I think it's pretty black alright, but I've never really known it to be any other colour so never passed any remarks.
If you see anything worrying post back here - I see a Rav4 billowing smoke and the driver saying 'sure I just serviced her this morning!' :P0 -
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Deleted User wrote: »I found this (spark plug) video. Not the same Rav as mine, but I'll assume the process is much the same? Video is pretty poor but gives a rough idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRIN91NCBTo
Avensis, from your list, the following are comments I'd add:
Greasing the door hinges - Not something I'm overly concerned about as this was done when I first got it about 6-8 months ago.
Give her a wash and clean - Don't get me started on this! :mad: :P (I'm having a lot of polishing hassle with it).
Check tyre pressures - What is this? 32psi?
Check tyre thread depth - Ah sure, it'll be grand :P (none need changing, but i'd say in 6 months I'll be taking off the front two and binning them).
Check tyre conditons make sure there are no visual damaged parts with bulges or cracks etc - Just have something stuck in my back right tyre. Screw possibly. Will get it fixed during the week.
Clean the battery terminals - No idea where to start on this, but sounds like an interesting one to do. Any real benefit to it?
Check the belts under the bonnet look ok (only one on the Rav 4) - Only one and it's squealy as fcuk first thing in the morning (for the first 2 minutes of driving, then it's grand). Have been told it needs to be tightened, but the type of belt that's in it can't be tightened, so it just needs to be replaced. Was also told it's not a real issue, in that nothing will go wrong with it, but i've been wanting to change it anyway. If I service her properly, I'll look into doing this myself).
Make sure that the coolant level in the over flow tank is at the full mark - Don't know what the overflow tank is, to be honest.
When cold open the radiator cap and top up the coolant - Will have to do this, also. I'd have thought this would be part of a normal full service?
Check the brake fluid is between the min and max, Top up screen wash reservoir, If you have power steerin fluid (i dont think you do) check it is topped up - These all seem to be within their normal spots, but is there any way of knowing if they could be a problem waiting to happen at all? (like you say below about the brake fluid being black).
When looking at fluids make sure they look ok - if brake fluid is very black change it - I think it's pretty black alright, but I've never really known it to be any other colour so never passed any remarks.
If you see anything worrying post back here - I see a Rav4 billowing smoke and the driver saying 'sure I just serviced her this morning!' :P
If the door hinges were done 8 months ago it's definitely worth doing again. Takes 5 mins.
It's worth having a good close look at the tyres as they might be badly worn on the inside edge which you wouldn't normally see. Tyre pressures wil be on a sticker inside the drivers door/passengers door or sometimes in the fuel filler cap.
Brake fluid should be a pissy yellow colour, if it's black change it immediately! I cannot stress enough how tyres and brakes aren't just "grand" as you say. They are the most important thing to check regularly on a car and by the sounds of it yours have been neglected.
If the belt is squealing and can not be tensioned further replace it. If it breaks you'll be left on the side of the road.0 -
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.....Deleted User wrote: »I found this (spark plug) video. Not the same Rav as mine, but I'll assume the process is much the same? Video is pretty poor but gives a rough idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRIN91NCBTo
Avensis, from your list, the following are comments I'd add:
Greasing the door hinges - Not something I'm overly concerned about as this was done when I first got it about 6-8 months ago.
Your grand here so
Check tyre pressures - What is this? 32psi?
In your manual. Will be in the index under tyre pressures
Check tyre thread depth - Ah sure, it'll be grand :P (none need changing, but i'd say in 6 months I'll be taking off the front two and binning them).
Just check the insude and outside of all tyres. Uneven wear can be an indication of wheels out of alignment or issues with suspension
Check tyre conditons make sure there are no visual damaged parts with bulges or cracks etc - Just have something stuck in my back right tyre. Screw possibly. Will get it fixed during the week.
Make sure you keep the tyres happy as they are the only part of the car in contact with the road
Clean the battery terminals - No idea where to start on this, but sounds like an interesting one to do. Any real benefit to it?
Just worth making sure the termnals are not damaged or have a lot of ****ty mucky corosioney stuff on them. If they do a wire brisu brings them up nice
Check the belts under the bonnet look ok (only one on the Rav 4) - Only one and it's squealy as fcuk first thing in the morning (for the first 2 minutes of driving, then it's grand). Have been told it needs to be tightened, but the type of belt that's in it can't be tightened, so it just needs to be replaced. Was also told it's not a real issue, in that nothing will go wrong with it, but i've been wanting to change it anyway. If I service her properly, I'll look into doing this myself).
The drive belt is only about fifteen quid. Just change it if it is noisy
Make sure that the coolant level in the over flow tank is at the full mark - Don't know what the overflow tank is, to be honest.
The see through plastic tank with ink or green fluid in it.
When cold open the radiator cap and top up the coolant - Will have to do this, also. I'd have thought this would be part of a normal full service?
Always worth checking this out
Check the brake fluid is between the min and max, Top up screen wash reservoir, If you have power steerin fluid (i dont think you do) check it is topped up - These all seem to be within their normal spots, but is there any way of knowing if they could be a problem waiting to happen at all? (like you say below about the brake fluid being black).
Dont worry about the screen wash and i dont think you have power steering fluid. Post back if you do
When looking at fluids make sure they look ok - if brake fluid is very black change it - I think it's pretty black alright, but I've never really known it to be any other colour so never passed any remarks.
SHould be clear- piddley yellow colour. Should be changed every 2 years might never have been done Youtube eric the car guy brake fluid for a DIY video
If you see anything worrying post back here - I see a Rav4 billowing smoke and the driver saying 'sure I just serviced her this morning!' :P0 -
Truth be told I'll probably end up leaving some of the stuff (brake fluid, etc.) for another time as I'll have to go out and buy the necessary bits and pieces for them.
Though I'll make a note of what's needed to be done, as I go around the car anyway.Make sure that the coolant level in the over flow tank is at the full mark - Don't know what the overflow tank is, to be honest.
The see through plastic tank with ink or green fluid in it.
Whereabouts would I find this? Engine bay, or under the engine when changing oil, or? 0 -
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