Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

crasy dash

I'm on my mobile and can't see any pics either

Top Dog

wotzgoingon wrote: »

None for me anyway. We will just have to wait and see if someone else can see them.

Another who can't see them here

Wibbs

Feck. Bloody Boards something or other. :mad:

Hal1

Try imgur or something else perhaps?

Esel

Pics or ...

Wibbs

Hopefully works this time.

I got an oul bargain JDM NOS goodness on the eBay yoke a couple of weeks/pages back. Early birthday present to myself and I've recently had a stomach bug so needed a lift.. And a present for the jalopy as it's about to have its 100,000 miles birthday.

Before.



Like meself, recognisable, but with a few worn out bits that leak at times(mad delicate paint on these ).

So off with its head, to reveal the oily gubbins. Gubbins that look remarkably bloody clean considering the miles on it. Not a trace of wear visible on the cam lobes and compression and tappet clearances are still factory(compression is actually higher than factory). :eek: Neurotically regular oil changes and not stamping on the loud pedal until fully up to temp, with the *ahem* occasional "Italian tune up" to clear out the crud FTW. All the pipework and pretty much everything we see in view, save for the dizzy cover and fuel filter is nearly 20 years old. Japanese folks really knew how to bolt cars together back then.



A mate of mine who helped(well when I say helped... Big on moral support and when my pitiful man torque needs help :-) unkindly noted that "well I suspected the big VTEC lobe would be fucking pristine")

And then the new JDM, NOS smells of wasabi and dreams goes on.



Teggy Testarossa* baby. Phone cam made it look even redder and bent the strut brace.

I'm all chuffed. No fool like an old fool.


PS. Oh and oddly now the engine sounds much quieter. Different resonance? I dunno, but noticeable. My aforementioned friend noted it too, after I thought myself mad to think it.


*red head in Italian. Italian even makes the ginger sound sexy. .

Black_Knight

Been a long long time since i've had to do something to the car, so that can only be a good thing.
Boot latch was acting up, firing when it wasn't being triggered. With help from some boardsies we diagnosed a failing wiring harness.

The failing wiring:


Replaced the wiring harness and we're back in action.


Put the wifes car up for sale last week too (shameless plug)

CorkMan_

On Saturday I went about sorting a few issues on our Jan '05 1.4 Focus.
First up was a gone top shock mount on the driver's side. Never took a pic of the mounts but I'd to take the shock out, dismantle and put in the new mount.





Next issue was to sort a weeping rocker cover gasket. It's been weeping a good few years but recently was leaving it's mark on the driveway! Very happy with the condition of the engine, no sludge and under cover was spotless. We have the car 9 years and it's always been serviced with the correct oil every 10k kms.

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As it's the wife's car she wasn't too worried about the condition of the engine bay but I decided it was about time it got cleaned. 1st time in it's life I'd say!

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Mileage as of Sat.....has a few 100kms done since!

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JohnBoy26

CorkMan_ wrote: »

As it's the wife's car she wasn't too worried about the condition of the engine bay but I decided it was about time it got cleaned. 1st time in it's life I'd say!

IMAG6735

IMAG6757

Mileage as of Sat.....has a few 100kms done since!

IMAG6748

If you washed the engine make sure you check the area around the sparkplugs for water as it will enter this area and not dry out. You might have a task removing the sparkplugs in the future otherwise.

Ford in their wisdom decided the cover over the plug leads (which was fitted to the silver top engine on the pre facelift mk1 focus) was not necessary anymore and did not use it on the blacktop engines which lead to water ingress and seized and corroded plugs in many cases.

Carpentry

So I got the spark plugs changed. One was a cnut to remove and you can see the result.

DanielGibbons

Carpentry wrote: »

So I got the spark plugs changed. One was a cnut to remove and you can see the result.

Ouch :eek:

Is that a Mk5 GTI?

Carpentry

DanielGibbons wrote: »

Ouch :eek:

Is that a Mk5 GTI?

It is. Also got the new battery along with the plugs. Went for Yuasa 3000 75Ah 650A

crasy dash

Changed the passenger side seat buckle today as the switch had gone faulty and was doing my head in
Sourced one second hand from the uk on ebay for under 20e so i said id take the plunge and have a go never done something like this before

Safety first disconnected the battery in the boot


Seat was held in by four bolts undid them.

Undid the electrical connections on the seat loom

Removed the seat and replaced the old buckle with the newish one




Reconnected the battery tested to make sure it was all ok
Just had it done before it pissed down was lucky:pac:
Sorry for poor photos was in a rush and only had my crappy phone camera to use

All done in under half an hour and all i needed was a ratchet ans a few spline sockets t8+t10 i think
No more beeping now she can get into the car again with me

McGrath5

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

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I have the same car myself, a 2006 one with a paltry 114km on it.

CJhaughey

CorkMan_ wrote: »

As it's the wife's car she wasn't too worried about the condition of the engine bay but I decided it was about time it got cleaned. 1st time in it's life I'd say!

IMAG6735

IMAG6757

Mileage as of Sat.....has a few 100kms done since!

You seen this guys video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRSoRkM8GcM
Pretty good job and doesn't look that hard just time consuming.

eringobragh

Carpentry wrote: »

So I got the spark plugs changed. One was a cnut to remove and you can see the result.

Do yourself a favour and bin that treacherous sparkplug tool and get one that attaches to a socket and bar extension. :cool: They are cheap enough and you'll get much better torque than the yoke you are using.

Halfords do half price on full socket sets if your in the market and they almost always include the spark plug socket on the larger sets

Hal1

Still need to be really careful using an extension on the spark plugs, especially if there old. If you apply to much pressure on them they will snap the ceramic leaving it in the block. A bit of penetrating fluid before hand will reduce the risk though.

eringobragh

Hal1 wrote: »

Still need to be really careful using an extension on the spark plugs, especially if there old. If you apply to much pressure on them they will snap the ceramic leaving it in the block. A bit of penetrating fluid before hand will reduce the risk though.

Agreed usual precautions taken - that tool just makes the whole job so much harder ,I should know I used to have one! Having said that the only stubborn plugs I've dealt with are the 99 fiesta ones

When putting back use piece of garden hose to thread them on to avoid cross threading then torque to manufacturer specs with some copper grease on threads.

Hal1

That's a top tip with the garden hose. I have a spark plug socket and inside it is a rubber section that fits over the ceramic section of the plug. So you know when it goes in .

eringobragh

Hal1 wrote: »

That's a top tip with the garden hose. I have a spark plug socket and inside it is a rubber section that fits over the ceramic section of the plug. So you know when it goes in .

They are handy but you could still cross thread it though if your not careful as it's in the socket, the idea behind the hose is if you meet any resistance I.e a cross thread the hose will come off the spark plug thus preventing any damage-

something I learned in my first haynes manual- there's a piece of hose in my car toolbox last 10 years ðŸ‘

CJhaughey

eringobragh wrote: »

Agreed usual precautions taken - that tool just makes the whole job so much harder ,I should know I used to have one! Having said that the only stubborn plugs I've dealt with are the 99 fiesta ones

When putting back use piece of garden hose to thread them on to avoid cross threading then torque to manufacturer specs with some copper grease on threads.

Be very careful using antiseize with torque settings the grease greatly reduces the torque and you could end up stripping threads if you go hard.
Torque settings are dry not lubricated.

CianRyan

I wouldn't really be putting cope grease on spark plug threads.
What I would do is throw away the long life plugs and use a regular set. (Check out autodata and it'll tell you which are acceptable, there's usually 3 options)
The long life plugs always tend to be harder to remove as they've been sitting there for much longer.

Another tip would be to clean the threads with an old plug before fitting the new ones.
Get a hack saw and cut two diagnal slits along the thread of an old plug and slowly thread it in and out by hand, there's usually a fair bit of carbon build up that makes them really stiff to take out.

eringobragh

CJhaughey wrote: »

Be very careful using antiseize with torque settings the grease greatly reduces the torque and you could end up stripping threads if you go hard.
Torque settings are dry not lubricated.

Interesting eveydays a school day - NGK says to fit them dry as the threads have anti corrosion properties , I only ever put a light smear on threads but will bear that in mind next time - although I've only done 2 sets in last 6 years

CJhaughey

eringobragh wrote: »

Interesting eveydays a school day - NGK says to fit them dry as the threads have anti corrosion properties , I only ever put a light smear on threads but will bear that in mind next time - although I've only done 2 sets in last 6 years

There is a crush washer on NGK plugs that you snug up and depending on the type of washer fitted give either 1/16th of a turn for conical or 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn for flat type washers.
I've never had a problem with NGK plugs but some cars do have issues, particularly Fords with the extra long thread which can seize, coca-cola sitting in the plug well over night will do a lot in those cases to dissolve the corrosion and unseize the plugs.

blackbox

CianRyan wrote: »

I wouldn't really be putting cope grease on spark plug threads.

I'd always put a little copper grease on plug threads and seats to make them easier to remove the next time. Torque should be defined by tension on threads, not turning friction. If stiff to turn (from dirt or corrosion or cross thread) you could hit torque setting before they are fully seated.

shietpilot

Not many pictures but I wasn't planning to make a post

Fitted a new clutch kit to the E36


Somehow got the box back on


Picked up a chassis to front subframe X-brace


Fitted the X-brace


Resprayed the rear parcel shelf with fabric paint as it was fading from black into a purple


Picked up a new set of black leather door cards for the rear


Fitted the door cards, sprayed the C-pillar trim and fitted headrests for the rear seats


Going to go at the full headliner and get it black soon enough. Also searching for front door cards at the minute

Hal1

I was gonna say do the head liner, yeah that's gonna look sweeeet .

shietpilot

Hal1 wrote: »

I was gonna say do the head liner, yeah that's gonna look sweeeet .

Everything black except the seats is the goal. I love the contrast.

dar_cool

Timing belt kit on a 1.8t golf I have, waterpump was in a bay way and leaking badly. New oil,filter,g12 coolant and coolant expansion tank aswell, going to nct it and sell it as I need to free up money

eringobragh

Another year....another oil change - a mere 4000mls put on her since her last change a year and 3 days ago!



I crushed the plastic on the filter so the cup wrench wouldn't grip so I broke out an older tool (can never have enough)



Changed out my alternator and snapped the rusty adjuster bolt while tensioning

Made do with a smaller bolt until I got proper replacement from Mr.T





Good video for those without belt tension tool I found this video good

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMiB3CnZpRc

Yes it needs a wash