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The "Today I did something to my bike" thread
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Thanks H, my fork isn't like that though, the cartridge tool has a castellated end like this (1 of the 4 cut outs done) and sv-portal.com describes how to make one. But I may well not have to.
Good call on the alloy wheel paint, it'll be either that or Hammerite spray. Haven't had the chance to do any more with the bike since :rolleyes: better make some time tomorrow.Life ain't always empty.
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Hotblack Desiato wrote: »Thanks H, my fork isn't like that though, the cartridge tool has a castellated end like this (1 of the 4 cut outs done) and sv-portal.com describes how to make one. But I may well not have to.
Good call on the alloy wheel paint, it'll be either that or Hammerite spray. Haven't had the chance to do any more with the bike since :rolleyes: better make some time tomorrow.
Well f me pink if Suzuki the parts bin gods didn't re use that blood multi point damper rod, sorry for the waffle so.
Whack up some picktars as ye go for prosperity Eoin, this end of the forum is quiet bar Japcatis obsessive cleaning, he always had his old rs250 sick n span!0 -
90s gixer 600 forks on SV1k (before the gixer went USD)
Wow if JC is who I think it is then this really is a small world
Thought it was funny you suggesting I go to the co-op though, not many of them round here :pac:Life ain't always empty.
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Japcati2020 wrote: »Calipers cleaned,chain cleaned,and new pads in.
Bike totally cleaned down too.
And it's to piss rain tomorrow..... 🤣
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Hotblack Desiato wrote: »Thanks H, my fork isn't like that though, the cartridge tool has a castellated end like this
Like this?
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Question, the gearshift on my project bike works fine but I doesnt have that nice bounce back to centre that my new bike has. Granted its old but is that due to the spring being a bit old (part 4 below)?
No that spring is the return for the brake light switch, the parts that affect the feel of the shift are probably internal springs in the selector drum inside the cases
This spring:
https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-nsr125r-1992-n-switzerlandkph_model3583/spring-gearshift_24651ky4901/#.X7VBbGj7Sbg0 -
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macplaxton wrote: »Like this?
Yep like that.
However I can't get the fecking fork caps off, they unscrewed from the fork tubes easily but won't come off the preload adjuster rod
applied what should be more than enough force but won't budge. Life ain't always empty.
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Hotblack Desiato wrote: »Yep like that.
However I can't get the fecking fork caps off, they unscrewed from the fork tubes easily but won't come off the preload adjuster rod applied what should be more than enough force but won't budge.
Yer using two spanners to hold one nut and loosen 'tother yeh?0 -
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Yep that's exactly what I was doing, don't have a vice to hold the tube in though which makes it awkward. Think I'll need another pair of hands. Or just clamp the tube into the top and bottom yokes again...?
The blue preload adjuster has a circlip near the bottom of it - manual makes no mention of removing it so presumably it's ok to leave that in place while removing.
Great pics there though, much better than the SV forum I was looking at - or the copy of the workshop manual I have. I'll be bookmarking that Thanks. Life ain't always empty.
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This is where I'm at:
Holding the dark grey nut steady in a 17mm spanner, I've turned the 22mm nut (fork cap) and it turns easily (on the preload adjuster, the blue threaded thing) until it reaches the end of its travel and then won't budge.
I've also tried turning the 14mm blue nut (preload adjuster) directly and get similar results.
The dark grey nut is quite a bit above the bottom of its travel, maybe I should try to free it by turning it clockwise (downwards) while gripping the rod in a vise grips? Need to be careful not to cause damage though.
It's not like I haven't rebuilt forks before, these ones seem more awkward than is reasonable :PLife ain't always empty.
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Hotblack Desiato wrote: »This is where I'm at:
Holding the dark grey nut steady in a 17mm spanner, I've turned the 22mm nut (fork cap) and it turns easily (on the preload adjuster, the blue threaded thing) until it reaches the end of its travel and then won't budge.
I've also tried turning the 14mm blue nut (preload adjuster) directly and get similar results.
The dark grey nut is quite a bit above the bottom of its travel, maybe I should try to free it by turning it clockwise (downwards) while gripping the rod in a vise grips? Need to be careful not to cause damage though.
It's not like I haven't rebuilt forks before, these ones seem more awkward than is reasonable :P
Get a 17 and 14 and turn in opposite directions. 17 clock 14 anti clock.0 -
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I have made some more progress lately on my Honda CB550 build. I have a set of Showa forks and Brembo M50 brakes to update the front end of the bike. This combination of forks and brakes meant I couldn't find a front wheel hub that would be the correct width so I have machined one that will hopefully work. I have sent it off to be vapour blasted and after that I will get it built into a wheel and see if the spokes clear the brakes. Its definitely going to be very close. The radial brakes sit very close to each other so there is little room for the spoke pattern to sit in between. I have 5mm clearance in CAD but its difficult to know exactly how the spokes will sit when in place. This combination of brakes and forks is used on triumphs with cast wheels which dont require as much space. Fingers crossed it works. I havent started the yokes until I know there is enough clearance. If not I will have to increase the fork spacing and add shims under the brake discs which would be annoying as the fork spacing is already very wide.
Machining finished. I have sent it away to be vapour blasted so it will have a raw aluminium matte finish when its complete.
I kind of wish I had made it a bit lighter than its turned out. Maybe in the future I will look at doing another when the project is finished. The bolt pattern of the discs are on quite a large diameter which means the spoke holes need to be on an even larger diameter which just makes hub quite big as well as the fork spacing making it quite wide.
The raw stock size at the start of the turning process. Its just made from 6082 T6 aluminium.
The flanges for the spokes are formed with a 3 degree taper. The wheel bearings are just normal press fit with a circlip on one side similar to a lot of bikes today.
The brake disc mounting is then machined. I have a set of nice titanium brake disc bolts off ebay to go on. Amazingly these are half the price of the Triumph steel ones.
I turned a new spindle and wheel spacers to go with the hub
The shaft is 308 stainless and the spacers are just aluminium
A hexagon is machined then bolted to the shaft to add the hex head onto the end.
Just a picture showing the spindle, bearings, spacers and seals
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Fox Mulder wrote: »I have made some more progress lately on my Honda CB550 build. I have a set of Showa forks and Brembo M50 brakes to update the front end of the bike. This combination of forks and brakes meant I couldn't find a front wheel hub that would be the correct width so I have machined one that will hopefully work. I have sent it off to be vapour blasted and after that I will get it built into a wheel and see if the spokes clear the brakes. Its definitely going to be very close. The radial brakes sit very close to each other so there is little room for the spoke pattern to sit in between. I have 5mm clearance in CAD but its difficult to know exactly how the spokes will sit when in place. This combination of brakes and forks is used on triumphs with cast wheels which dont require as much space. Fingers crossed it works. I havent started the yokes until I know there is enough clearance. If not I will have to increase the fork spacing and add shims under the brake discs which would be annoying as the fork spacing is already very wide.
Machining finished. I have sent it away to be vapour blasted so it will have a raw aluminium matte finish when its complete.
I kind of wish I had made it a bit lighter than its turned out. Maybe in the future I will look at doing another when the project is finished. The bolt pattern of the discs are on quite a large diameter which means the spoke holes need to be on an even larger diameter which just makes hub quite big as well as the fork spacing making it quite wide.
The raw stock size at the start of the turning process. Its just made from 6082 T6 aluminium.
The flanges for the spokes are formed with a 3 degree taper. The wheel bearings are just normal press fit with a circlip on one side similar to a lot of bikes today.
The brake disc mounting is then machined. I have a set of nice titanium brake disc bolts off ebay to go on. Amazingly these are half the price of the Triumph steel ones.
I turned a new spindle and wheel spacers to go with the hub
The shaft is 308 stainless and the spacers are just aluminium
A hexagon is machined then bolted to the shaft to add the hex head onto the end.
Just a picture showing the spindle, bearings, spacers and seals
Not that you need me telling you it but super work! Envious of your skill set and ability.;)
From my experience of Brembo and spoke clearence on a 19 and 21 inch wheel is that it's as you describe. I've about 4mm spoke clearence on the 19 with conventional P4 30/34 and nil on the 21. Nor sure what constitutes a safe clearence but I wouldnt want it less.
That hub assembly is beautiful:cool:0 -
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macplaxton wrote: »The grey 17 nut is just a locknut. Looking from the top wind that one clockwise so it moves down. Use the 14 to hold the top of the blue bit or move anticlockwise.
Get a second pair of hands or use a Workmate® (preferably an old Irish-made one!)
Well I managed it. Just needed to use a big adjustable wrench on the 17mm nut (longer than my 17mm spanner, and a tigher fit!) and I was able to undo it.
Got the cartridge out on one side just by unscrewing the bottom bolt (loosened previously while still on the bike), on the other side I had to put the spring and fork cap back in temporarily to get the bolt undone.
Then the fun bit - slide-hammering the fork seals out
So it's all disassembled now. I have new bushes, spring clips etc. as well as new seals to go in. I figured the old spring clips would be rusted due to water getting under the dust seals, and they were. Next step - clean and paint the fork sliders...
Life ain't always empty.
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