The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

macplaxton

PCeeeee wrote: »

Today I changed oil & filter. Filter was an absolute pig to remove. Used a strap wrench and it bent and buckled.

The QuietMan wrote: »

Like this? Happened me last weekend

Two things about oil filters

1) Lubricate the seal on the spin-on cartridge before fitting. Don't stick it on dry, it likes to weld itself to the flange. 2) When refitting, don't put it on Gorilla-hand-tight, just hand-tight to not be leaking and falling off is enough.

Don't remember the last time I had a problem getting an oil filter off, but I do remember it wasn't one I put on previously.

PCeeeee

macplaxton wrote: »

Two things about oil filters

1) Lubricate the seal on the spin-on cartridge before fitting. Don't stick it on dry, it likes to weld itself to the flange. 2) When refitting, don't put it on Gorilla-hand-tight, just hand-tight to not be leaking and falling off is enough.

Don't remember the last time I had a problem getting an oil filter off, but I do remember it wasn't one I put on previously.

Agree but some people do tighten them. If I rem correctly the recommend torque is very low like 17 Nm or something.

macplaxton

If it does have a torque printed on it, it'll be ultra-low. 17Nm would be at the top, top, end of things.

I can only find car one (OEM) in front of me at the desk at the minute and it only says

"Screw the filter on until the gasket is up against the sealing surface, then tighten by hand a further 1/2 - 3/4 tun."

Which is probably about "uh" to "uh-" in terms of torque.:pac:

The QuietMan

macplaxton wrote: »

Two things about oil filters

1) Lubricate the seal on the spin-on cartridge before fitting. Don't stick it on dry, it likes to weld itself to the flange. 2) When refitting, don't put it on Gorilla-hand-tight, just hand-tight to not be leaking and falling off is enough.

Don't remember the last time I had a problem getting an oil filter off, but I do remember it wasn't one I put on previously.

Yeah I lubricated it well including the spin on bit. It was handy enough to get off but I still needed a filter wrench. When doing my V-Strom oil change last week I forgot how tight I put it on and some greater effort was needed, but nothing on the scale of the wife’s car which I didn’t previously replace, that was the most difficult one I’d ever faced.

The QuietMan

PCeeeee wrote: »

Agree but some people do tighten them. If I rem correctly the recommend torque is very low like 17 Nm or something.

Just hand tightened it on this occasion, no leaks thankfully.

macplaxton

Found an OC91 Mahle (BMW oilhead) in the man cave.

"around 20Nm"



They can be a pig to remove, but they are recessed, so you can't get hands/straps round them. The cup has a big 27mm hex on it. Far too easy to over-tighten.

My usual tool for getting them on is the Facom automatic band (some filters don't have any flats/notches on them). Haven't bust a band yet, but they are available separately.



I have stripped/sheared numerous fasteners over the years giving it more grunt than intended.:o

PCeeeee

macplaxton wrote: »

If it does have a torque printed on it, it'll be ultra-low. 17Nm would be at the top, top, end of things.

I can only find car one (OEM) in front of me at the desk at the minute and it only says

Which is probably about "uh" to "uh-" in terms of torque.:pac:

:pac:

H_Lime

Finished at last.

H_Lime

LIGHTNING wrote: »

^

Well thats rather lovely, great job!

Still bits n pieces to refine but overall I'm quite happy how she turned out.
As a reminder of how she was I give you....

blade1

and the score for H Lime.....

The QuietMan

Picked up this for my blade. A new one was €165 plus post, got this and a renntec grab rail for £60 including postage.

The QuietMan

Just changed out the plugs on the busa, are they in a fair condition?

blade1

The QuietMan wrote: »

Just changed out the plugs on the busa, are they in a fair condition?

Not perfect, good to have them changed!

The QuietMan

blade1 wrote: »

Not perfect, good to have them changed!

Fully serviced now thank god, actually an easy bike to work on.

blade1

The QuietMan wrote: »

Fully serviced now thank god, actually an easy bike to work on.

Did you do air filter?
Was it dirty?

Yeah busa a lot easier than a zzr to work on :mad:

The QuietMan

blade1 wrote: »

Did you do air filter?
Was it dirty?

Yeah busa a lot easier than a zzr to work on :mad:

The air filter was spotless would you believe, so i seen no reason to change it out, it was almost as if it is brand new. A hiflo filter, might try the K&N filter at the next service.

the ZZR that bad? I think i'm finally starting to weaken the Mrs hatred for bikes, she wants my next one to be this and not a GL1800 because she loves the colour :pac::pac::pac:

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/202006019687279?radius=1500&advertising-location=at_bikes&make=KAWASAKI&postcode=bt358hj&sort=price-asc&model=ZZR1400&colour=Green&page=1

blade1

The QuietMan wrote: »

The air filter was spotless would you believe, so i seen no reason to change it out, it was almost as if it is brand new. A hiflo filter, might try the K&N filter at the next service.

the ZZR that bad? I think i'm finally starting to weaken the Mrs hatred for bikes, she wants my next one to be this and not a GL1800 because she loves the colour :pac::pac::pac:

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/202006019687279?radius=1500&advertising-location=at_bikes&make=KAWASAKI&postcode=bt358hj&sort=price-asc&model=ZZR1400&colour=Green&page=1

The woman take sense

Yeah monocoque frame on the ZZR makes some jobs a bastard.

H_Lime

Plugs be a whoer! :mad::o

newmember2

I'm trying to service the centre stand on my deauville that has got stiff and doesn't return fully and needs a bit of a kick. The stand pivot has a hollow shaft running inside it that's fixed to the frame at either end. I need to clean all the rust and crap out of the stand pivot tube that rotates around this shaft. Does anyone know where I'll get a wire brush similar to a bottle or pipe cleaner that'd do the job that has wire bristles? Anything I've seen online is advertised as a wire brush but then when you look at it properly you see that it is indeed a brush made of wire but the bristles are actually nylon or whatever which wouldn't really be good enough for what I need.

myclist

Wrap sandpaper around a rod or pipe or even a dowel. Tape it on to the rod first, then wind round and round so it fits through the hole easily. Insert into cordless drill and put through the hole. Start drill and the paper will spin outwards to fill the hole and polish the rust away. Direction of winding on paper is important , but you'll figure that out, or just run the drill the other way.

LollipopJimmy

Changed the plug on the CBR 250 today, some feck of a job for somebody with big hands. Took about half an hour to do the feckin thing.

CJhaughey

newmember? wrote: »

I'm trying to service the centre stand on my deauville that has got stiff and doesn't return fully and needs a bit of a kick. The stand pivot has a hollow shaft running inside it that's fixed to the frame at either end. I need to clean all the rust and crap out of the stand pivot tube that rotates around this shaft. Does anyone know where I'll get a wire brush similar to a bottle or pipe cleaner that'd do the job that has wire bristles? Anything I've seen online is advertised as a wire brush but then when you look at it properly you see that it is indeed a brush made of wire but the bristles are actually nylon or whatever which wouldn't really be good enough for what I need.

You can buy a brake hone tool pretty cheaply which has three expanding stones that are pushed out by spring pressure, you chuck that up in a drill and add some oil and just move it back and forth in a tube to get the tube polished internally.

Hotblack Desiato

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

Changed the plug on the CBR 250 today, some feck of a job for somebody with big hands. Took about half an hour to do the feckin thing.

Shouldn't be rusty like that, plug cap not seated properly and letting rain in? Lucky it didn't leave you stranded somewhere.

LollipopJimmy

Hotblack Desiato wrote: »

Shouldn't be rusty like that, plug cap not seated properly and letting rain in? Lucky it didn't leave you stranded somewhere.

Yep, a bit worrying tbh but the cap was seated properly. It was feckin well bet on the plug too. I was tempted to put a bit of grease on the plug however bike will be long sold before I need to change it again. Iridium plug so good for 30k

Hotblack Desiato

BTW you shouldn't grease the threads as it leads to overtorqueing

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

LollipopJimmy

Hotblack Desiato wrote: »

BTW you shouldn't grease the threads as it leads to overtorqueing

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

I meant the top just, dielectric grease or some such. Grease on the threads could lead to all sorts.

Hotblack Desiato

Yeah I was pretty sure that was what you meant... but someone else reading it might not know

LollipopJimmy

Hotblack Desiato wrote: »

Yeah I was pretty sure that was what you meant... but someone else reading it might not know

Well that's their problem isn't it :pac::pac:


Good point though!

cantdecide

Update on my Fazer project for the curious types...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nL_kLl0a8uM

gn3dr

cantdecide wrote: »

Update on my Fazer project for the curious types...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nL_kLl0a8uM

Just watched and liked. Looking good.