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The "Today I did something to my bike" thread
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These arrived today after ordering on Monday.
John Walker battery cables and 150A solenoid.
I crimped straight butt connectors 2.5mm² for the wires to the solenoid if yer thinking of going that route. They're a perfect fit to his wires.
Great bit of kit, tricky to fit Neatly but soo worth it. Started the etv first time in an age there the wknd and by christ its crankedy crank!0 -
I was going to write up a tome about hand laying up layers of GRP in a custom mould, getting some high spec seat foam and sculpting it to a better shape than the OEM Honda one. Then layout, cut and stitching of foam with a nice contrasting piping section to pick up the bikes main colour.
But then I said... 'nah', and just did this instead
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Ode To The Motorist
“And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road”
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I crimped straight butt connectors 2.5mm² for the wires to the solenoid if yer thinking of going that route. They're a perfect fit to his wires.
Great bit of kit, tricky to fit Neatly but soo worth it. Started the etv first time in an age there the wknd and by christ its crankedy crank!
I used heat shrink connectors for those wires.
Almost everything went easier than expected.
Didn't tighten anything until everything was in its place.
Pulled new cable through from solenoid by connecting it to old one and then just pull old one back.
Silicone greased all connections and cables have acf 50 on them when they arrive.
Only bother I had was the negative cable just wouldn't go on to the terminal with the battery in place.
The brass connector, the part going down the cable catches on the battery holder.
Had to connect it by pulling the battery up a few inches and then put it back down.
Seems to be putting a bit of pressure on the terminal still though.
Negative cable is a couple of inches too long as well.
Starts very fast now though :eek:
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I used heat shrink connectors for those wires.
Almost everything went easier than expected.
Didn't tighten anything until everything was in its place.
Pulled new cable through from solenoid by connecting it to old one and then just pull old one back.
Silicone greased all connections and cables have acf 50 on them when they arrive.
Only bother I had was the negative cable just wouldn't go on to the terminal with the battery in place.
The brass connector, the part going down the cable catches on the battery holder.
Had to connect it by pulling the battery up a few inches and then put it back down.
Seems to be putting a bit of pressure on the terminal still though.
Negative cable is a couple of inches too long as well.
Starts very fast now though :eek:
Yeah tricky enough to fit em neat, jiggery poker required. Yours look spot on.
With the cross section so much thicker the ability to make the same radius bend is hampered, he makes em a wee bit longer to account.
I tried to keep any excess length away from the terminals best I could so they bolt up to the battery without any bending of the wire next to it. Have another tweek here and there if you think there may be too much stress on the terminal.
Haven't you a fancy pants battery in there? Is it dimensionally the same as oe?
Isn't it marked how quicker that starter can crank post fitment:eek: This is the two fingers to the dude in a suit who told the chap in accounts to reel in his gross copper bill per annum. As I get old and boring these additions attract me more than the usual fast mods.
On a similar vibe I'll be installing an upgraded CCT in the new old Dr, one with a finer pitch with a better spring in as the old one can **** the bed. Mind you it's head off to do this but it rights a wrong decision that was made all those yrs ago and makes for a better bike to own, same as the walker cables on rotax ape twins.0 -
It's not the extra cable that causing the issue.
More like the battery box and the 90° angle of connector.
Was talking to John Walker about it and he said there should be little more give in it.
The battery.
Well it's smaller in size it packs a bigger punch ( a bigger punch to the pocket as well)
It's only 110mm high do I put something under it to keep it up a bit
It's a yuasa ttz 14s.
A standard yuasa ytx12 is 130 high I think and a ytx14 is 145.
But both less CCA than the 230CCA the Ttz has
Can u see in the pic where the cable is pushing in the battery box?
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I hear you but that's a possible failure point, it's remote but nothing worse than a fix being the source of a breakdown.
I'll see can I get a bit more out of the cable first during the week.
Was going to go at it yesterday but went for a spin instead.
In other news, I came across this seat cowl on a Japanese site.
Like hens teeth apparently.
Not sure whether to keep it or sell it.
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Bits arrived, at last...
Tad overdue...colour of that oily/metal gloop.
I'm fitting widgets to upgrade the damping. They're tuned to use a light weight oil, this way the stock damping orifices dont come into play, or shouldn't. I've decided to drill them out just to be sure as I've a suspicion that even when using the recommended 5wt they are damping somewhat.
Once the lacquer goes off I'll throw em back together.
Lowers came up well.
The search continues for a quality correct shade of red gator.0 -
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It's gaiter
Today I changed the clutch fluid - it had gradually been dragging more and more, last week I could hardly get neutral until the engine was hot :eek:
Fluid was down to the bottom of the cylinder. Pumped new fluid through, the old stuff looked like it was years old. Clutch action restored.
Oil and filter change too, first one for me on this bike. Oddly Suzuki don't specify hand-tight on the filter, or a low torque value beyond hand-tight, but two full turns beyond the seal contacting the engine case. The plastic Triumph oil filter tool I had fitted the Suzuki filter... and was just about able to reach the required two turns before slipping, it was designed to prevent overtightening.
Nearly had a disaster letting it down off the paddock stand, even though I had the front brake locked on, it was close to touching down on the block of wood under the sidestand (the sidestand is very short) but somehow it just started leaning to the right. I was able to catch it and no damage, just a mirror bent in, but worrying. I have a couple of heavyweight ratchet straps, and hooks/attachments on the shed rafters I can attach them to, should be able to prevent the bike falling using one or two of them.
Sucks not having a centre stand though.Life ain't always empty.
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Eww! a spelling pedant, you guys are smart and loved, no really!:pac::DHotblack Desiato wrote: »It's gaiter
Spare shock I painted. Looked like it came up from the sea bed but they last really well on these models actually, hardy yokes. I coated a heavier rate spring for this, will use er if touring with luggage n the like or if I keep eating pies.
That finished off my can of expensive u pol etch primer. Great stuff when going back to the metal!0 -
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