Today I did something to my bike thread...

LollipopJimmy

Way more time spent in this than should have been, every cog scrubbed and even got the torque wrench out for the lockring, I usually trust my natural torque meter ha!

Had to search high and low for the lockring but it finally turned up

CramCycle

Finally got a reducer to fit my 165mm cranks (Shimano cranks) instead of the PF30 Easton cranks. No pre load bolt came with the new cranks but finally found one in my box of tricks. I am not confident that the Shimano cranks are wide enough but the preload clamp is one of the really long ones so I got it on and pulled it all together as best I could. It will hold for commuting but the outer most bolt on the left crank is not over the spindle so undoubtedly I will mangle the cranks or the groves on it sooner rather than later but for now it will do the job. The GRX cranks are weird in that the groves on the left arm don't start until almost a cm into the bolt hole, unlike my other Shimano cranks so even less holding it there. Anyway, finally my weird need for shorter cranks on my new bike has been met.

If anyone has any experience and knows for certain if a Shimano BB86 pressfit will be a straight swap for a pressfit (not outboard) Easton EC90 BB, let me know as once the reducer or that BB fail I will swap it out if I can.

cletus

Diesel worked a treat. Just took them out of the jar there, and they came out grea...ah, forget it. MB ruined it. I bought a new one.

LollipopJimmy

cletus wrote: »

Diesel worked a treat. Just took them out of the jar there, and they came out grea...ah, forget it. MB ruined it. I bought a new one.

Looks great! :pac:

BTW I replied to your pm but your inbox is full

cletus

Thanks. Cleared some out there now

iwillhtfu

A little splash of colour in otherwise drab black bar tape then decided to wirewool a black stem cap to see if it turned out like I'd imagined. Worked out well imo.

cletus

I like the stem cap

magicbastarder

there were a few jokes in the house about me polishing my stem the other day. mainly because i *was* polishing it. an old SR quill stem; i hit it with 600 grit sandpaper and then polished it with a felt polishing mop on a drill, and some brasso. the black slurry which comes off is a right pain to get off your hands though.

iwillhtfu

magicbastarder wrote: »

there were a few jokes in the house about me polishing my stem the other day. mainly because i *was* polishing it. an old SR quill stem; i hit it with 600 grit sandpaper and then polished it with a felt polishing mop on a drill, and some brasso. the black slurry which comes off is a right pain to get off your hands though.

I've been there with those a few times alright. The trick is to now when to stop, you just become obsessed with blemishes the longer you're at it.

iwillhtfu

cletus wrote: »

I like the stem cap

The little polishing kit you recommended has been a gem.

fat bloke

secman wrote: »

Oiled a couple of sticky cables, hopefully that will free them up. Rear brake is not fully opening on release,not sure if its the cable thats causing that ?.

I've had this with a rear brake despite meticulous cleaning and oiling after every spin. How exactly do you look cables in situ? If indeed that's what's seizing.

secman

fat bloke wrote: »

I've had this with a rear brake despite meticulous cleaning and oiling after every spin. How exactly do you look cables in situ? If indeed that's what's seizing.

Its definitely the cable housing in my case, a flaw design on my bike, its only a short piece of housing that runs from end of crossbar at seatpost to the rear brake. I'm not skilled enough to go near a brake, tried before...disaster. i just manoeuvre the bike in various positions to allow oil to penetrate the housing. Works for a while then seizes again.
Have had it replaced twice before by bike mechanic but eventually goes wonky ;(

smacl

Trying to get the remote lockout working on my old Kellys Neos sports hybrid yesterday, I managed to open up the remote lockout cartridge too far which is now refusing to close. It is a sealed pressurized cartdridge which appears not be be servicable, see picture below. Wondering if anyone is a aware of a compatible part I can buy or any other fix? Looks very like this one on bikeinn so I've asked there. I've currently removed the cartridge and the bike is useable with the main spring suspension on the other side, albeit with suspension unlocked. Forks are Suntour NEX4610, 29" wheels, part number on cartridge is only partly readable but appears to be FUN050-00 0910.

iwillhtfu

fat bloke wrote: »

I've had this with a rear brake despite meticulous cleaning and oiling after every spin. How exactly do you look cables in situ? If indeed that's what's seizing.

It can often be the housing type. I notice clarkes cables and outers are usually used in bike shops because they're cheaper and the bikes they turn out are seldom used. If I were using the bike year round I'd invest in jagwire cables and housings or shimano might be equally as good I've never used them. I do have jagwire on all of my bikes though and never any issues with cable stick.

It can also be caused where the outer is cut. If you don't get a clean cut and it's more of a pinch cut you fail to open correctly it tends to gather water and dirt. Only a matter of time before the cable starts to fuse with the outer.

A quick fix would be spraying some GT85 up/down the outer and if you've time remove the cable and clean and rub down with a good chain oil. It would help if you knew where the stick was occurring though which is easy to find on externally routed cables as you can pull the cable and see if the issue is on the back end or up under the bar tape.

Daroxtar

So I guess today I did quite a bit to my bike. New frame arrived from Sarto yesterday afternoon so I spent the day building it up from scratch. First time attempting a complete build and to be honest it was fairly daunting. I should probably have done something like this on a winter hack for a first attempt instead of a custom frame from an Italian master frame builder.
Cutting the fork was a bit nerve wracking so I took the safer option and left an extra 20mm on it. I'll cut it fully at some stage soon.
Bottom bracket required a little bit of surgery as the bolt for the cable routing plate was in the way when I tried to press the bb sleeves together. Hacksawed the sleeves off and pressed the cups in no problem.
The direct mount brakes were a bit tricky, I won't lie, I was in a cold sweat afraid I'd strip the threads at one stage but I got there in the end.
The rest was fairly plain sailing. Can't wait to get her out on the road.

iwillhtfu

The Italian master frame builder will be crying into his cappuccino seeing that Dura ace going on.

A nice looking frame interested to see the finished build.

LollipopJimmy

A thing of beauty

ednwireland

first thing i thought are WTF are direct mount brakes ? that one passed me by

then i looked and yeh had them on an mtb nearly 30 years ago

fat bloke

iwillhtfu wrote: »

The Italian master frame builder will be crying into his cappuccino seeing that Dura ace going on.

A nice looking frame interested to see the finished build.

Well done in the self build. Nice one.

But - do campag even make a direct mount brake option?

iwillhtfu

fat bloke wrote: »

Well done in the self build. Nice one.

But - do campag even make a direct mount brake option?

Yeah I think the new record has a direct mount option but at a usual eye wateringly expensive price though.

fat bloke

Yeah, I've direct mount ultegra and it's great but I've seen campag direct-mount frame builds with non campag brake calipers fitted.

Daroxtar

Mr Sarto can wipe away his tears with all the €50 notes
Pic of the finished build on the Pics of beauty thread.
AFAIK the direct mount brakes from years ago are a fair bit different to the new ones. The old ones were more like cantilever, the new ones are similar to standard dual pivot brakes but with a mounting bolt on each side instead of one in the centre.
If you want to see eye watering prices, look up Cane Creek Fuego direct mount brakes!!

iwillhtfu

Daroxtar wrote: »

Mr Sarto can wipe away his tears with all the €50 notes
Pic of the finished build on the Pics of beauty thread.
AFAIK the direct mount brakes from years ago are a fair bit different to the new ones. The old ones were more like cantilever, the new ones are similar to standard dual pivot brakes but with a mounting bolt on each side instead of one in the centre.
If you want to see eye watering prices, look up Cane Creek Fuego direct mount brakes!!

They're all kinds of ridiculous money 🙈 That's a stunning build 👌

Trekker09

fat bloke wrote: »

Well done in the self build. Nice one.

But - do campag even make a direct mount brake option?

They do but they're not great. I replaced the DM Records on my BMC with Bontrager Speed Stop ones.

McBluffin

Hi all,
I want to do some bike touring and will also be taking on some very steep hill and on top of this I have a 6 day multi day event planned. I would like to get as low as gearing as possible on the bike I will be using, as I want to be able to spin up any hill I meet.

Currently the bike has Shimano Sora Triple 50-39-30 with a SHIMANO HG509125 9 SPEED 11-25T cassette.

How big can I go with the cassette. Could I get a 11-40T on there if I used something like a Wolf Tooth Components Road Link Rear Derailleur Hanger?

iwillhtfu

McBluffin wrote: »

Hi all,
I want to do some bike touring and will also be taking on some very steep hill and on top of this I have a 6 day multi day event planned. I would like to get as low as gearing as possible on the bike I will be using, as I want to be able to spin up any hill I meet.

Currently the bike has Shimano Sora Triple 50-39-30 with a SHIMANO HG509125 9 SPEED 11-25T cassette.

How big can I go with the cassette. Could I get a 11-40T on there if I used something like a Wolf Tooth Components Road Link Rear Derailleur Hanger?

The chain will probably be you limitation I'd say, you're asking it to cover a massive variance. If it's a long event I'd look at a 1x setup with a 46 or 50 tooth cassette particularly if you're carrying a lot of baggage. You'd probably even get away with a 46 cassette using your current set up 39/30with a goat link and not using the 50 tooth

magicbastarder

the capacity you can get to is also dependent on your rear derailleur - i suspect you already have a long cage one on the bike.

iwillhtfu

magicbastarder wrote: »

the capacity you can get to is also dependent on your rear derailleur - i suspect you already have a long cage one on the bike.

Yeah that also but with a goat link you can get a massive cassette on there with a long cage derailleur before you get into the mtb spec. I don't think it will take up the chain slack though but maybe it will.

OP is it a flat bar bike you're on? It's a lot easier if it is you could pick up a mtb setup which usually has a much bigger range in either 2x or 1x

McBluffin

iwillhtfu wrote: »

Yeah that also but with a goat link you can get a massive cassette on there with a long cage derailleur before you get into the mtb spec. I don't think it will take up the chain slack though but maybe it will.

OP is it a flat bar bike you're on? It's a lot easier if it is you could pick up a mtb setup which usually has a much bigger range in either 2x or 1x

This is a link to the bike: https://www.thebikelist.co.uk/lapierre/audacio-300-2014

iwillhtfu

McBluffin wrote: »

This is a link to the bike: https://www.thebikelist.co.uk/lapierre/audacio-300-2014

You might get a 32 tooth rear cassette on there without any changes and it might be enough. You kind of have to sum up if you want super easy gearing which will be so low you'll spin out quickly on most down hillls or use what you have which will cover most types of terrain. Where's the event?