Your current / planned brews

dashcamdanny

Baldy Conscience wrote: »

mashed in 16 litres, got 8 back from that first runnings, recirculated, then batch sparged with 15 litres to get it up to 23 litres in the boil.

Then sparged again in about 7 litres, getting about 5 back for the table beer.

The table beer is not going to the comp unless it's totally amazing.

What yeast are you using? WLP530 in mine,it was down to about 1.030 last night.

Tell me about the table beer. Is this a separate batch from the main boil?

What was the gravity? Surly its under 1.010 OG

Lovely Bloke

dashcamdanny wrote: »

Tell me about the table beer. Is this a separate batch from the main boil?

What was the gravity? Surly its under 1.010 OG

OG was about 1.045

Yes, it's a separate batch.

Are you familiar with the Galway Bay beers? Their Via Maris table beer is the second runnings from OFAF.

Mine was strictly experimental, I mashed and (batch) sparged the grain for a ~9% Black DIPA as usual, hit my numbers of 1.086 or thereabouts, then threw another 7 or so litres of 68 degree water onto the grain for about fifteen minutes, then drained it, ending up with about 5 litres of wort at 1.045, which I boiled seperately and did separate hop additions.

If the OG wasn't in that ballpark, I likely wouldn't have bothered with boiling it, but I don't mind doing a 5 litre batch, it's only a small batch as an experiment to see what happens.

Lovely Bloke

Baldy Conscience wrote: »

I pulled this off the yeast last night, and it's fermented down to 1.000, which I wasn't expecting.

Not as much sourness as I'd have liked, so it's just a pretty nondescript 60/40 wheat/pilsner ale.

Nice hint of salt on the finish though, so I got that right.

Think I need a larger pot for mashing in, when I added the Acid malt it went all porridgy.

So, a semi-successful first small batch, the beer is drinikable, but not what I was looking for

Going back to this Gose that I brewed as a small 5 Litre batch in my own house by myself (the larger brews are done with a few other lads).

I bottled it 2 weeks ago, cracked one this evening. It's well drinkable, low ABV, and nicely carbed.

I'm still disappointed with the sourness level, but there's a great base beer there. Slightly salty finish too. I got everything right on this one apart from the sourness, but I'm calling this a successful first small batch experiment.

I've to do one more brew for the Slovenian competition, which I'll be doing myself so need to pick a style.

fobster

Baldy Conscience wrote: »

mashed in 16 litres, got 8 back from that first runnings, recirculated, then batch sparged with 15 litres to get it up to 23 litres in the boil.

Then sparged again in about 7 litres, getting about 5 back for the table beer.

The table beer is not going to the comp unless it's totally amazing.

What yeast are you using? WLP530 in mine,it was down to about 1.030 last night.

Good job
I've read high-gravity beers can have lower than normal efficiency, clearly there's plenty of fermentable goodness left behind!

I'm using Nottingham yeast meself. Kicked it off on Saturday, krausen cleared on Wednesday, going to check it on Sunday morning and if it's above 1.018 I'll stir the yeast gently to get the gravity down below 1.015 before dry-hopping it with the remaining Slovenian hops. Using even amounts of Styrian Wolf, Aurora and Cardinal, smelling good so far! What did you use as your dark grain? I used Carafa III Special, good dark colour and a subtle roastiness without pushing it into stout/porter territory.

WLP530, that an Abbey Ale yeast? Brewing a Black Monk IPA! I know the competition is BJCP registered but no strict categories are being applied which suits testing out the new hop varieties.

I had a Leipziger Gose back 6 years ago while visiting my brother in Leipzig. My beer memory, like the beer itself, is hazy but it wasn't overtly sour, having had Berliner Weisse since I would say the Berliner is higher on the sour scale. Definitely one to revisit though!

baron von something

fobster wrote: »

amounts of Styrian Wolf, Aurora and Cardinal, smelling good so far

Snap. I'm using Wolf and Cardinal in what was supposed to be a Belgian IPA but I think my water parameters are off to let the hops shine through properly

fobster

I'm in Raheny and from looking at water reports, my water is soft enough that I don't need to tinker with my supply save 1/2 a campden tablet to remove chlorine.

I guess if your water ph/mineral content is off... you could always compensate by adding more hops

dashcamdanny

Chilling this milk stout now. Got 82% mash efficiency today in my cooler.
4.20 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter
0.30 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt 5.3 %
0.30 kg Chocolate Malt
0.20 kg Barley, Flaked
0.20 kg Roasted Barley
0.20 kg Special B Malt
0.30 kg Milk Sugar (Lactose)
30.00 g Challenger [7.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min
Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 mins)
11.00 g East Kent Goldings (EKG) [5.00 %] - Boil Hop 15mins
1.0 pkg Safale American

fobster

dashcamdanny wrote: »

Chilling this milk stout now. Got 82% mash efficiency today in my cooler...

Nice one, what's your water to grist ratio? And is that with batch sparging?

After a week in the fermenter, my brew is down to 1.014. The main taste I got was a blueberry/melon fruitiness, reminded me of a single-hopped Mosaic brew I got off a friend. Will be interesting to see what 5oz of dry hops adds!

dashcamdanny

I added 15L to 5.7kg of grain. Mashed for 75 mins at 67degree , which dropped .4 over the whole time.

Batch sparged with 3 steps, stir then drain . 10L and stir, 10L then stir.

The cold day gave me a different boil off rate so I had to boil for 75 mins to get my post boil volume.

Hit my expected OG spot on.

Cant find the grist ratio in beersmith.

It is fermenting wildly at the moment. Blow of tube is popping around 3 times a second.

UnknownSpecies

dashcamdanny wrote: »

I added 15L to 5.7kg of grain. Mashed for 75 mins at 67degree , which dropped .4 over the whole time.

Batch sparged with 3 steps, stir then drain . 10L and stir, 10L then stir.

The cold day gave me a different boil off rate so I had to boil for 75 mins to get my post boil volume.

Hit my expected OG spot on.

Cant find the grist ratio in beersmith.

It is fermenting wildly at the moment. Blow of tube is popping around 3 times a second.

To see your ratio, go to the 'Mash' tab in your recipe. Then double click the mash step. The ratio will be there in the popup.

dashcamdanny

Oh yeah. Thanks. 4.6

fobster

The ratio I use is for the initial mash so for your mash, it's 15L/5.7kg = ~2.6L per kg, about average so.

Links234

Short mead has worked out nicely, very dry indeed, the star anise was an interesting thing to flavour it with, a bit strong, but sticking a slice of orange in the glass with it and it was really tasty.

Made another braggot today, as well as first attempt on a cyser.

dm09

Currently on my 5th 'homebrew' attempt. all 4 previous were successful. This time I'm brewing a Thomas Cooper Selection IPA.
It fermented furiously for 4 days and I ran a sample off on day 5 and checked the gravity and it was almost fully fermented but there is a very poignant cider like smell from the wort and its a lot cloudier than usual and tastes acidic.

Have any of you experience of batches getting infected? This was my first time sanitizing with Peracetic Acid , I'm not sure if i was sloppy in my sanitizing but just on the safe side I'm going back to Starsan.

Any advice appreciated

BeerNut

dm09 wrote: »

Any advice appreciated

Leave it alone. When it's been in the bucket two weeks, have a taste. If it's absolutely undrinkable, ditch it; if it's not good but not terrible, bottle it and leave it another three weeks. If it's so bad after that that you're never going to drink it, ditch it. If it's drinkable, drink it.

fobster

Most beer is fermented after 5 days but fermentation produces byproducts which the yeast can consume as it begins to flocculate to the bottom of the fermenter. As BeerNut says give it two weeks in the bucket and you'll be golden.

Lovely Bloke

Got up this morning (well, kid woke me at 5.30), saw the sun shining and decided to work from home.

Already have my mash finished and just waiting for the wort to come up to the boil.

Chocolate Maple Porter

55% Pale
14% Chocolate
9% Caramel
9% Black
12% Maple Syrup

Some Saaz for about 24 IBUs

It's from the Brooklyn Brew Shop Recipe Book

Ponster

Baldy Conscience wrote: »

Chocolate Maple Porter

I was making eggs this morning and thinking how much maple syrup I'd have to add to a porter and here you come along with a recipe

Lovely Bloke

This beer is flying along, after 6 hours of fermentation yesterday I had a good krausen formed, and this morning it's tipping away in the airlock, two or three bubbles a minute.

I'm supposed to be aging this until the autumn, but I reckon if it's nice I'll just do another batch.

MarcoAntonio23

A gluten free IPA using sorghum extract syrup for the OH who is coeliac.

dashcamdanny

I think another Lager is in order.

With all the talk over on the other forum about fast fermenting, I think im going to give it another lash.

Czech Pilsner
Pilsner Malt 4.6kg

21g Saaz at start
20g Saaz 50 mins
20g Saaz at flame out.

Regurgitated 34/70 yeast


Saaztastic..

Lovely Bloke

you should call it Saazenbrau

fobster

Baldy Conscience wrote: »

Got up this morning (well, kid woke me at 5.30), saw the sun shining and decided to work from home.

Already have my mash finished and just waiting for the wort to come up to the boil.

Chocolate Maple Porter

55% Pale
14% Chocolate
9% Caramel
9% Black
12% Maple Syrup

Some Saaz for about 24 IBUs

It's from the Brooklyn Brew Shop Recipe Book

When do you add the maple syrup? I made a smoked maple porter recently, used 8oz at 0 minutes then used 120ml for carbonating 17.5L of beer. Next time, I'd up the maple at flameout and look into coffee additions, think O Brother's Joe Porter rather than Wicklow Wolf's a Beer called Rwanda.

Also this looks epic --> http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/11359/imbp-imperial-maple-bacon-porter

UnknownSpecies

My dry Irish stout is almost done fermenting and I'm thinking of splitting in half and aging for a month or two on Jameson soaked oak chips. Does anyone have any advice or experience with this? Hydrometer samples taste great so far. It's perhaps a tad ashy at the moment but it has a nice roasty, coffee flavour. Would this be complemented by the oak and whiskey?

Lovely Bloke

fobster wrote: »

When do you add the maple syrup?

Start of the boil, as per the recipe.

RasTa

Impulse ordered this recipe mash kit last night. This shall be the first beer that goes into a keg....

http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2016/02/citra-double-ipa.html

UnknownSpecies

RasTa wrote: »

Impulse ordered this recipe mash kit last night. This shall be the first beer that goes into a keg....

http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2016/02/citra-double-ipa.html

Looks like a savage recipe, I'm tempted to give it a go too! I think Vermont Ale yeast would be delicious with it.

Where did you get the honey malt out of curiosity? I see it mentioned on US forums all the time and it sounds lovely, but haven't ever seen it here.

RasTa

UnknownSpecies wrote: »

Looks like a savage recipe, I'm tempted to give it a go too! I think Vermont Ale yeast would be delicious with it.

Where did you get the honey malt out of curiosity? I see it mentioned on US forums all the time and it sounds lovely, but haven't ever seen it here.

Yeah I'm subbing Crystal 20 for it. Getting it from the HBC. That yeast is new to me, although I do remember watching a video about it.

xlogo

Where could I get a simple starter kit for home brewing?

UnknownSpecies

xlogo wrote: »

Where could I get a simple starter kit for home brewing?

My two favourite homebrew stores:

The Homebrew Company kits here.

Get 'er Brewed kits here or their custom kit builder here.

Those are the basic kits where you basically lob all the ingredients into the fermenter and you're all set. There are slight advances on these kits where you can steep additional grains and boil hops for flavour before adding to the malt extract. This is called extract brewing and kits for that can be found on both those sites. Both types of brewing are fine and will give you good beer if done correctly. I'd recommend starting with a basic kit first, then advance to extract after if you fancy it.