The beginning of a new boat.

fergal.b

whacker1982 wrote: »

secure the moulding strip in again and draw the line again on the outside of the moulding strip to put your desired line down on the ply. take away the strip and nails and hey presto you got your line down where you want it. and the way you wanted it.


i repeated this again 3 inches below the line again to get my gunnels size.



cut them out and layed them up on the boat looks the part and fits like a glove.
this method is called lofting and is used to make wooden boats. really enjoyed doing this.

whacker1982

cheers fergal i found it stuck in the sisters head!
ive started the stem and keel should pop up some more posts either tomorrow or sunday, just waiting on the epoxy to dry.

breghall

dare I ask Whacker ... but is it as daunting as you first thought ?
did you think it'd be harder or easier to get to this stage???
i am mighty impressed by the workmanship and effort gone into this project.

The only thing I feel I need to ask is how do you rate what size engine the boat can take? how do you tell if a 4 hp is ok compared to say a 9.9 or 20hp.. can you sell these with a max rating so it doesn't come back to bite you ??

Honestly just wondering, am not trying to be a contrary @ss..


again , well done can't wait to see the finished boat.

whacker1982

breghall not at all, its been fun to be honest, i liked the challenges along the way, and the support and advice i got here has been really helpful.
the first one was always gonna be the hardest just to find my way.
i already know that the second one would take no time at all,
as the templates and jigs are ready made. and i know exactly whats involved and what comes next.

yes ive been thinking about that one what hp would be ok to put on to this boat. i was gonna ask this at the end but you beat me too it

just to confirm its 1inch thick ply, transom got one layer of 300gsm then 2 450gsm, then 1inch ply, followed by 2 strips about 6inch wide of 450gsm put on to the edge where the transom meets the sides all round.
followed by another 2 layers of 450gsm on the transom.
the keel will also butted against the bottom of the transom for support.

also what is the this boat a dory? what would i call it?

Jack_regan

also what is the this boat a dory? what would i call it?

In my opinion it's not a dory anyway. A dory usually has a flat bottom like this one.

http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/boats/3272309

I'd go for "10 foot Clinker style grp fiberglass rowing boat tender" for advertising purposes; should cover all bases.

As far as the outboard goes, I'll leave that one to the experts for the definitive answer. But in my own humble opinion I'd say 4-6 hp would be about right (based on looking at a lot of different boats advertised and the size engines they have strapped on the back; I'm no expert). A lot of the other 10 foot boats like the "pioner 10" http://www.pionerboats.co.uk/pioner-10.asp and the "walker bay 10" http://www.walkerbay.com/rigid-dinghies-sailboats/walker-bay-10 are rated at about 3 hp- 5 hp but there made of different materials. I think in general boat manufacturers would put a lower hp rating on their boats than the boat could physically cope with to cover themselves and I'd advise you to do the same. What do you think yourself? I'm sure there will be plenty more opinions!

Or you could just put a 40 hp on it like this guy on youtube and do some "wheelies".

whacker1982

ha ha thats mad, how could he see where he was going!!
sounds about right 10' gpr clinker style tender.
i was thinking the same about the engine size but being honest i was not sure, i dont think id go much higher then you stated.
but it sounds about right. ill see what everybody else thinks, thanks jack regan

fergal.b

Yep 4 - 6 hp will be fine and should push it along at 10 - 18 mph depending on the load.
The height from the top of the transom to the bottom of the boat will tell you what shaft you need 15" for a short and about 20" for a long.

Jack_regan

whacker1982 wrote: »

sounds about right 10' gpr clinker style tender.

Sorry for being pedantic but I'd leave it exactly the way I had it.:D (For Google search engine purposes), or at least get all the below words into the advert at some point.

"10 foot Clinker style grp fiberglass rowing boat tender"

You'd definitely want to have the word "boat" in an advert, "fiberglass" to a lesser degree. And it would probably be no harm with your keywords if you worded the advert in such a way as to have all bases covered. So if someone does a Google search for 10' boat, 10 foot tender, ten ft boat.....etc they'll hopefully be directed to your boat first.

Now have you thought about a manufacturers name? I know your only starting out but who knows where this could lead. So we've got "Walker bay 10"; "pioner 10". Could it be a "Whacker 10"?:)

whacker1982

not at all my fault jack, i though i had it worded the way you had, cant see the last post when replying to a thread.( note to self copy and paste)

never though of that either about the way to word it for google search engine.

i was thinking of getting a few stickers made up to pop on the back of the transom, no idea about what name yet, i def wont go with whacker ha ha dunno why i made that my user name :rolleyes:

i was going to ask on a new thread about the ce cert what exactly dose one have to do to get the cert, how much dose it cost?

i measured the back of the transom fergal its 24" from top of the transom to the bottom of the keel. long shaft

fergal.b

These should be able to help with the CE cert. http://www.nmma.org/certification/default.aspx

If you are serious about building the boats for a living or to turn over a few quid check out some of the competition have a look at the finish and the price of their boats and work out how close you can come to them.

Burke boats http://www.burkeboats.com/ 10ft dingy



Darragh boats.



And O'Sullivans marine 10ft skerry are just a few.

Jack_regan

whacker1982 wrote: »

not at all my fault jack, i though i had it worded the way you had, cant see the last post when replying to a thread.( note to self copy and paste)

eh, yes you can. When your in the section where you're posting a reply, go to the arrows on the very right hand side(think it's called the drag bar, but I'm open to correction). Anyway basically scroll down the page and you can see all of the previous replies. So no more excuses:D.

It's more about getting the key words into the search as the advert wouldn't be long sitting on the first page of the boats section of Donedeal and you don't want to have to be renewing your advert all the time at €3 a pop.

i was going to ask on a new thread about the ce cert what exactly dose one have to do to get the cert, how much dose it cost?

Haven't got a clue, do you think it would be a legal requirement, it sounds expensive anyway!

whacker1982

cheers for that fergal, the boats have an excellent finish, went onto the website but i didnt see any prices?

whacker1982

jack im asleep, all i had to do was scroll down on the post reply thread

fergal.b

Just on another note you have to be careful with the sides of your gunwales as the plywood will have to be very well sealed where it was cut also if you are screwing on a rub rail it can split the ply leaving a gap for water to get in and not giving a good hold for the screw, It would be better to use hardwood here but then again I guess money talks

Jack_regan

whacker1982 wrote: »

cheers for that fergal, the boats have an excellent finish, went onto the website but i didnt see any prices?

Fitzgerald marine in Cork do a 10 foot fibreglass boat also. Price is on the website. Not sure it's a good idea posting links to other boat manufacturers on this thread but I guess it gives you an idea of what the competition are producing and the price they're looking for; they may poach your potential customers. Hopefully you're able to undercut them!:)

http://www.fitzgeraldmarine.com/view_used.asp?manu=used&id=108

whacker1982

cheers jack, i can under cut them no problem what so ever and by a lot.

Jack_regan

Sounds good, hopefully you'll manage to sell a few in that case. They probably have a certain 23% charge factored into their price, which I presume you'll be avoiding for the time being?.:D (Don't answer that question, you never know who's reading!)

I'd say you can nearly guarantee the other crowds (osm, burke, darragh) that don't have the prices published on the website are charging more than fitzgerald marine but I could be wrong, might be worth a phone call to find out.

Here's a link to a 2008 11ft saltee osm marine boat for sale on the osm website. It's not the same boat as the one fergal posted a picture of, but it will give you some idea of their prices. :eek::eek:

It's hard to tell if it's a boat that a customer traded in or if it's brand new and they have a year of manufacture on it and they haven't managed to sell it since 2008, who knows?

http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_full_detail.jsp?slim=broker&boat_id=1966222&ybw=&hosturl=osullivansmarine&&ywo=osullivansmarine&&units=Feet&access=Public&listing_id=74625&url=&hosturl=osullivansmarine&&ywo=osullivansmarine&

whacker1982

cheers for that jack, thats madness dunno where there going with a price like that. it will be there for another 4 years if they made it new.

whacker1982

right so been busy busy busy building my boat.
started on the keel and stem this week, what i did was got an over size measurement of the keel and cut out four strips for the keel. i then planed the pieces individually to fit the keel starting from the bottom once i had these fit to size i epoxyed them all together and all over keel as one itself.



next job was to set the template for the stem, this was very straight forward copied the shape of the inside stem of the boat and drew it on a piece of ply and copied fergals idea, very effective. (thanks fergal)
cut one inch strips all about four mm thick, made up enough of these to get a total of 35mm thick and 1inch wide.



got out the old thing that i found in the sisters head, again. and used it to steam bend the strips right round the template. epoxyed all these together and left to dry.
loved planing and cutting the iroko, a really nice hardwood to plain and cut. mind you its the only hard wood ive ever worked with. but beats soft wood any day.



fergal i remember you were asking me about the epoxy i took a picture of it for you, i have got a really nice shine from using it, the hardener was quick drying on this particular one. i dunno have i answered the question you had asked. but if you need to know any thing else about it just ask, my first time using epoxy. i like the stuff but its very expensive



i also made up a seat support for the center of the boat, i just used a normal piece of 3x2 hardware store timber and planed it down to an nice oval shape. and stuck it on a 5x5 inch square piece of ply epoxyed the leg. and glassed the square ply into the boat. piece of cake

whacker1982

gave here a good old sand and a good wash down, ready for painting.



next job was to give the inside of the boat a lick of paint, i used 2 part polyester resin, and 1 part gel coat. i used the normal amount of cat hardener and gave it a good mix.


what i find is that i always mix up a little too much then too little, so what i do is have something else lined up to be either glassed or in this case painted so i had the under side of the gunnels painted and edges, im thinking 2 to 3 coats of boat and gunnels

fergal.b

Your flying along she is coming together now. You left out one tip, putting cling film over your jig I hope it was easy enough to get off

whacker1982

Ha Ha I know though of it when it was too late, typically. a good few belts of a rubber hammer got it free.

whacker1982

my next job was to put on the gunnels relatively simple so i though, popped on the cap over the blocks. all i did was drill a pilot hull and counter sunk it, then filled the hole using some silicone. all the screws are stainless steel screws.



my next job was to put on the side covers of the gunnels. a little tricky. clamped on a piece of ply about half way down the boat as it would not let me go any further, done want to put the timber under much pressure, i achually lined up the bottom of the ply with the bottom of the blocks and then clamped it on, all i did next was took out my pencil and marked the line at the top of the ply where it meets the cap on top of the blocks.
removed it and cut out this shape and so on till all the inside sides were complete.





went to the local hardware store for the outer side to be done just got some inch and a half moulding, there is a nice cure on one end of the moulding so that will go to the top of the gunnel.



these were all treated on the inside again, i just gave them two coats of gel coat and polyester and hardener.

clamped them onto the boat only using about two clamps and covering a foot at a time and repeated the process of pilot hole, countersunk, and screwed,

whacker1982

i have the seats done and aswell and have them coated in epoxy at the moment, but i put on the back one and decided it needed some support in the middle so i just cut out this piece with a shape its 5 1/2 inch by 5 1/2 inch and fiberglassed it onto the transom and will be later screwed onto the seat.

whacker1982

ok ive all the moulding on now and the gunnel and inside cover is on all filled in with filler and sanded down. i also gave it a lick of epoxy i like this look.

whacker1982

the good post mad delivered me her jewelry some nice stainless steel cleats.

whacker1982

cant get the two pictures to come up and they were the nice ones.

next boat i do ill be scrapping this idea with the blocks and plywood for the gunnels. it takes too long and the timber effect will be taken away from it once the gunnels are painted white. next one i do will be made from iroko, to simply put it, a strip on the outside and a strip on the inside and topped off with a cap on the top. ill get the copper nails with the caps for the ouside, the seats will also be made out of iroko. i can picture what it would look like when this idea would be finished, a lot less time consuming and a better looking boat.

softwood is cheap to buy like it is but it has to be treated and treated and treated to make it water tight so in the long run id be better off getting hardwood, (iroko) your spot on there fergal.

Jack_regan

whacker1982 wrote: »

the good post mad delivered me her jewelry some nice stainless steel cleats.

You didn't delete the http from the link so you had "http://http://" and then the link, that's why your pictures didn't come up.

Nice ones alright!:)

Jack_regan

whacker1982 wrote: »

next boat i do ill be scrapping this idea with the blocks and plywood for the gunnels. it takes too long and the timber effect will be taken away from it once the gunnels are painted white. next one i do will be made from iroko

Sounds like a better plan all right. There's a lot of work involved with the way you are doing it now. Are you planning on putting any fibreglass cloth on the gunnel's or just painting over it as it is?

You're not far off now, I take it you're concentrating on getting the first one finished and sold before starting on number two. Seems a shame to not have the mould in use. I suppose you need to make sure there's a market for them before getting too carried away.

whacker1982

Jack_regan wrote: »

whacker1982 wrote: »

next boat i do ill be scrapping this idea with the blocks and plywood for the gunnels. it takes too long and the timber effect will be taken away from it once the gunnels are painted white. next one i do will be made from iroko

Sounds like a better plan all right. There's a lot of work involved with the way you are doing it now. Are you planning on putting any fibreglass cloth on the gunnel's or just painting over it as it is?

You're not far off now, I take it you're concentrating on getting the first one finished and sold before starting on number two. Seems a shame to not have the mould in use. I suppose you need to make sure there's a market for them before getting too carried away.

HI jack Regan I was going to get woven roven for the gunnels but I'd have to get more resin again and my boat funds have just dried up, so I've given it two coats of epoxy and prob 2 to 3 coats of gel coat and resin.
The mould is upside down outside for the moment I've no room in my small boat shed an expansion would be nice. We will have to wait and see.