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  • Registered Users Posts: 34,631 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Woohooo! Finally fixed that problem with my arcade monitor :)

    I thought I'd sit down properly with this guide and give it a go

    http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/How_to_Correctly_Set_Up_Monitor_Colours_and_Brightness

    Got stuck at the cut off part though - it was like there were not cut off pots. I finally found them, and they were all in the off position!! Giant 'wtf?!' from me.

    Whoever owned this cab before me didn't know the cut off pots were there, so had the contrast and brightness up full to compensate - which worked to a degree. But you ended up with that problem I had. (plus I'm pretty sure you're not meant to have contract and brightness up full on a monitor anyway)

    I spent about two hours adjusting them to the right position (without a feckin mirror! :eek:) and finally managed to get them right.

    Delighted so I am!


  • Registered Users Posts: 616 ✭✭✭Casey120


    Great to hear everything turned out fine , I did both my cabs using that guide .


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,631 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    It's a really great guide. Adjusting those cut off pots was an absolute nightmare though.

    Couldn't see them so had to do it blind. Also they only need to be moved a tiny bit which I didn't figure out for ages. If you have them up higher than 1/4, the cut off colours would combine just to make white light. It was a fine balance between using that white as the backlight somewhat and then slowly raising the contrast.

    I was meant to play about with the vertical hold along with the JAMMA Megadrive while it was out in the middle of the room (see if I could stop the picture scrolling), but totally forgot and put the cab back in the corner. ah!!! Was looking forward to some 15K MUSHA and Eliminate Down!


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,631 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    That's weird, I thought I just posted something in here but it's gone? :confused:

    Must have forgotten to press submit :D

    Anyway, opened up a hatch I've never looked under to have a look at the speakers and got a surprise - a slot for a fluorescent bulb!

    2012-08-05232137.jpg

    What's cool about it is the marquee comes down over it, so when the bulb is lit, the whole thing should light up. Really want to get one now.

    Andrew76 - I remember you picked one up a bulb a while ago, was it from Akihabarashop? I wonder would they have one around town somewhere?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,864 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    o1s1n wrote: »
    That's weird, I thought I just posted something in here but it's gone? :confused:

    Must have forgotten to press submit :D

    Anyway, opened up a hatch I've never looked under to have a look at the speakers and got a surprise - a slot for a fluorescent bulb!

    2012-08-05232137.jpg

    What's cool about it is the marquee comes down over it, so when the bulb is lit, the whole thing should light up. Really want to get one now.

    Andrew76 - I remember you picked one up a bulb a while ago, was it from Akihabarashop? I wonder would they have one around town somewhere?

    The ones you find in shops here are usually a few mm to large or small. The large will fit in but its under a bit or pressure and I wouldn't trust them.

    .


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭unky chop chop


    Maybe same size as the tubes I bought for my astro
    Bought them in Homebase.
    450mm -15W.
    Fits perfectly..hopefully same size as yours.

    Also I can see that your Ballast has a starter bulb/fuse on it,If the a new tube don't work then it may need to be replaced as well( assuming AC wiring to it is Sound)


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,631 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Thanks for the info man! I'll take some measurements and see if it comes in under 450mm. Would be great if I could pick it up locally rather than have to worry about it breaking in the post.

    The starter fuse was something I was just reading up on. I take it that lights up and then sends light through the bulb?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭unky chop chop


    Same little twisty knob in all florescent lights.
    it just pumps a few more volts into it to get it going I think.

    Funny,the one in my kitchen still blinks,I need to twidle that starter and I don't give a flying feck about it,but by christ as soon as anything went wrong with the one in my cab I was on it like a flash


  • Registered Users Posts: 616 ✭✭✭Casey120


    Mine is just a standard 430 mm 15w Philips TL .

    The Japanese FG-1E screw in starter is hard to source here in Europe but STV sells them on Shumps !


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,250 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    o1s1n wrote: »
    Andrew76 - I remember you picked one up a bulb a while ago, was it from Akihabarashop? I wonder would they have one around town somewhere?

    Nah I got mine from that RS online shop (don't have the link to hand) but defo check out your local store as unky suggests, would be cheaper and faster. I have a second backup bulb that I'd gladly give you to test but unfort you don't live around the corner. :( Maybe if you're still stuck by/if the time your beers happens I could bring it along.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 697 ✭✭✭kevin2me


    o1s1n wrote: »

    Anyway, opened up a hatch I've never looked under to have a look at the speakers and got a surprise - a slot for a fluorescent bulb!

    What's cool about it is the marquee comes down over it, so when the bulb is lit, the whole thing should light up. Really want to get one now.

    Andrew76 - I remember you picked one up a bulb a while ago, was it from Akihabarashop? I wonder would they have one around town somewhere?

    Nice find :) The cab that keeps giving :)

    BnQ have pretty big selection of tubes.
    But I found my Philips on ebay, easier trawling through shops,
    and they were 7$, in Total paid 20$ USD including shipping to ireland,
    They came in days and to my surprise came in pack of 3 when though i was getting one :)


    So if can find type of Tube, usually Philips, and Size and I used these guys:
    http://myworld.ebay.com/trust_deals/?_trksid=p4340.l2559


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Good news, a kind-hearted soul at AO just fixed my ¥100 coin mech for me. It's back in the post to me so I should have it this week. HURRAH! :)


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,250 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    Pyongyang wrote: »
    Good news, a kind-hearted soul at AO just fixed my ¥100 coin mech for me. It's back in the post to me so I should have it this week. HURRAH! :)

    So did you get this back and working?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Andrew76 wrote: »
    So did you get this back and working?

    Yep, works great! Just the coin meter isn't registering now coin meter counter has stopped. :(


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,552 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Trying to run thus Transformers Ultimate cart through the Supergun and I'm not getting a picture, just interference. For a time there was a rolling picture but now nothing.
    Any ideas what to do to get this working?

    The Supergun gives both RCA and s-video out.
    Is this the problem?

    If I switch to "Sync correct" on the supergun I get a poorly coloured picture from the RCA, nothing when in the other setting.
    The S-Video is giving me nothing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,864 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    Trying to run thus Transformers Ultimate cart through the Supergun and I'm not getting a picture, just interference. For a time there was a rolling picture but now nothing.
    Any ideas what to do to get this working?

    The Supergun gives both RCA and s-video out.
    Is this the problem?

    If I switch to "Sync correct" on the supergun I get a poorly coloured picture from the RCA, nothing when in the other setting.
    The S-Video is giving me nothing.

    6267_3.jpg
    http://www.arcade-game-sales.com/products/egret/6267-3.html


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,552 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Ha ha, very good...
    Not quite as helpful as one might imagine, however.

    So, aside from buying a cab I can't have, any notion of getting this to work on a regular CRT?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,864 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    Ha ha, very good...
    Not quite as helpful as one might imagine, however.

    So, aside from buying a cab I can't have, any notion of getting this to work on a regular CRT?

    When it comes to superguns and the like I'm unfortunately lacking in knowledge. The only similar thing I have is a consolized MVS and that was pre-built and self contained in a wooden case.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    I'm not getting a picture, just interference. For a time there was a rolling picture...

    If I switch to "Sync correct" on the supergun I get a poorly coloured picture from the RCA, nothing when in the other setting.
    The S-Video is giving me nothing.

    There's the problem. Sync issue.

    Is this connected to an LCD TV? I'm almost certain it's a combo of that specific cart and your TV. The rolling picture is a sync issue, hence sync correct gives you at least some sort of picture.

    Try a different TV if possible. My 1 slot hates my plasma downstairs, but my CRT is grand. My LCD monitor is grand if I run it through a Sync Strike.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,552 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Right, I might give it a try on the lcd, not ideal though.
    Might have access to another big CRT.
    This is the first time the Trinitron has let me down, kinda surprising.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    It might well not be the TV you are using, but MVS signal output is notoriously fussy about sync. Could well be the Supergun, but I'd say it's the TV. The fact is, somewhere the signal is losing sync or is not strong enough, hence the intermittent and/or rolling picture. Changing TV will at least rule one possibility out. :)

    By the way, another useful tip. ONLY ever swap TV's while listening to the 12" version of Criticize by Alexander O'Neal. It worked for me. :)


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,552 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Right, tried the thing out on every tv I have, I'm getting a solid picture from everything but the Sony.
    Unfortunately I'm also getting reds displayed as greens across the upper quarter of the screen, in a horizontal stripe to the top edge.

    This is a major pisser.

    Everything else I have, the MVS and the G-Net work fine, so it must be the cart.

    And, yes, of course I listen to Criticize by the be-suited Mr O'Neal, love that song...


    I find Pretty In Pink works better when working with RGB cables though... just sayin'


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    See? Told you a bit of Alexander O'Neal solves everything doesn't it? :)

    Might be a voltage thing too, specific to that cart. Have you tried adjusting the voltage? Bottom line really is that MVS systems are just bloody fussy, they don't even output a standard signal which is why most TV's don't get on with them.

    Bootleg carts are what they are, I am ∞% sure ondafly would not sell you anything pony (not my business of course, just sayin' :)). I've never used those X in 1 carts so have little knowledge of them, however it's possible their success rate varies across the types of MVS boards?

    What type of MVS main board are you using anyway? Have a look at the Hard MVS website for specifics on your board, might shed light on voltage, RGB etc. Do all legit carts play fine?

    Oh, and when I'm having RGB issues, I prefer a bit of El DeBarge. :)



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,146 ✭✭✭CathalDublin


    Steve SI wrote: »
    I got a quote from them for shipping for that to Ireland and it was €1400:eek:


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,552 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Pyongyang wrote: »
    Might be a voltage thing too, specific to that cart. Have you tried adjusting the voltage? Bottom line really is that MVS systems are just bloody fussy, they don't even output a standard signal which is why most TV's don't get on with them.

    Bootleg carts are what they are, I am ∞% sure ondafly would not sell you anything pony (not my business of course, just sayin' :)). I've never used those X in 1 carts so have little knowledge of them, however it's possible their success rate varies across the types of MVS boards?

    What type of MVS main board are you using anyway? Have a look at the Hard MVS website for specifics on your board, might shed light on voltage, RGB etc. Do all legit carts play fine?

    We are at cross purposes here methinks.
    My MVS board works a treat, always has, no probs.
    It's the Transformers Ultimate cart, Pink Elf multi cart for Jamma that I have issue with.
    I know these things are as unreliable as hell but I bought it off of Ondafly and I know it worked before I got it, he's a trustworthy guy.

    So, here we are, a cart that won't work, probably because of the hardware.
    I don't know how to adjust voltage settings on one of these things, it's a Vogatek Supergun and an ATX psu.

    Bum!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    If you have different MVS boards it would go some way to pointing at it being an issue with the cart not liking a specific board. That's the whole deal with bootleg carts though. :(

    I forget what I have, an MVS-1FZ I think. If you want to test it on my MVS system you're more than welcome. I can test it on both my arcade cabinet and supergun...?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    This might help...?

    http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-22094.html

    Those Vogatek Superguns are a bit iffy it seems.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,250 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    Haven't been on AO in a while so just noticed a recent update to this thread, custom built rotate mechs for AWSD an E3. Unfortunately not for resale but very impressive indeed!

    Ol2RZ.jpg

    dqKPO.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,864 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Now that would be very nice indeed.
    Really the only thing the Egret 2 has over the E3 and AWSD is the rotate mech inside. I prefer the pure flat tri sync monitor that the Egret 3 and AWSD use and a rotate mech would be the business.

    Doesn't look like he'll ever be selling these unfortunately.


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  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,385 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    I just removed my first chassis from a arcade crt tonight. I didnt trust myself with the screwdriver\cable\crocodile clip way so i bought a HV Probe and a new multimeter for myself a week ago. I hooked the Probe up to the meter, earthed it with the crocodile clip and held my breath while i stuck the tip under the anode cap and.... nothing happened. the meter didnt move at all. I havent had this cab on in about 3 weeks so obviously there was nothing left in it. popped off the anode cap and remove the chassis. heart was in my mouth sticking the thing under, even when i knew there was charge in there squeezing the anode cap together made me nervous. all went well this time though.. :)


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