Cathellen wrote: » I can't get at the pipe work under the cylinder without taking out the cylinder and taking up the floor boards. I'm sending you another of pipework at bottom ...maybe no use??
Cathellen wrote: » Hello again. Attaching some pics of pipework from stove to pump. The stove is on left side. The pipes to hotpress on right. Thanks for your interest.
Cathellen wrote: » From what I can see there are two pipes to/from the stove...one top left ,the other bottom right. These travel horizontally for about 2m. Looking at the pump there is a pipe connected to the top and one to the bottom. These are the only direct connections to it that I can see. I cant see if they come from the stove.The thermostat is on neither of these. I lit the stove.....the rads were slightly warm but no heat in oil boiler or pipe to it.
bigron2109 wrote: » Hi , I'm moving into my new house tomorrow and it has a 30km Green Duel fuel stove with a back boiler in the house . Have never used a stove before and it's huge to look at. Just wondering what is the best type of fuel to burn in it and does anyone have any tips etc for a total newbie when it comes to stoves . Cheers
bigron2109 wrote: » Hi lads . I just moved into a brand new house with a Green 30kw stove with a back boiler in it. It's a brand new stove. The builder had a couple of little fires in it for me while doing work on the house to have it ready. A couple of questions as I have never used a stove before and I've read the instruction Manuel but still don't understand a few things . I've a primary and secondary controls. The primary ones are little knobs at the bottom of the stove and the secondary ones are the same except at the top of the stove. Do I leave these open if I want to get hot water to the rads ? I lit it the other night and got hot water no problem and the radiators heated up . But I don't know what I should be doing with the controls. Any advice or help would be welcome as I honestly don't have a clue please.
mrtom wrote: » I had a stove installed recently and the chimney was lined aand fitted with a downdraught cowl. It smokes when I open the door to refuel. I had it checked by an engineer and the draught was tested. It gave a reading of 20 Pascals which I understand is good. The stove manufactures recommend between 12 and 25 Pascals. Has anyone here had a similar experience ? Need advice.
Joe1919 wrote: » Try opening the stove vents before refueling. Open the door initially by only about half an inch and then after a few seconds continue to open slowly. The idea is to get a bit of a draft going in the stove and air moving up chimney before you fully open the door. Make sure baffle plate is in right position.
mrtom wrote: » At first I thought baffle, then checked assembly against the diagram in the manual, nope. I'v tried that with the vents & door opening slowly, even opening windows as well to make sure the room ventilation is ok. Still smokes even when I hear air rushing in from the open bottom vent. Its a Fireline FX5W, tried goggling to see if it was an issue with these stoves but didn't find anything. Very odd.
Joe1919 wrote: » I note your stove has a folded type baffle with a horizontal section. I seen a similar problem with a friends 7 kw Chinese cast iron stove with a similar type baffle arrangement. The stove tended to smoke slightly when adding peat briquettes. But it was very bad when coal was added as the loose coal dust (slack) use to flare up immediately when added to fire and smoke and dust use to bellow out into room. Anyhow, I note that this problem does not seem to occur on stoves that I am familiar with where the baffle plate is continually at an angle (about 45) even though many of these stove flues are not lined and just feed into ordinary clay chimneys. So we suspected that the horizontal part of the baffle was directing the smoke forward and outwards into the room. We removed the baffle and replaced it with a square flat piece of 3mm steel plate that was big enough to sit on back of fire plate/brick and reach the retaining lugs at front. This new 'baffle' was now running at 45 degrees approx and had no horizontal bit. The result was that the stove did not smoke. However, this new baffle is lower and nearer fire and it was noted that the glass and front door gets a lot hotter, so I cannot give a general recommendation for this action. However, in this case the 7kw stove is large compared to room size (13 X 13 feet) and this arrangement seems OK so far, as the stove does not need to be over fueled or driven hard so to speak.
mrtom wrote: » Thanks for your informed reply. Your observation makes total sense. The attch image illustrates your point, {I have a rear flue outlet}. I did consider it a design issue but couldn't find supporting evidence. Though I'm now at the point of telling the supplier / installer its not fit for purpose.
Joe1919 wrote: » Just one further point. I note from the diagram that your stove could be a high efficiency design type (tertiary air supply etc.) and to some extent, the baffle design is about slowing down fuel gasses and increasing efficiency. So it may be necessary to use a good quality smokeless fuel. For example, I bought a few bags of 'ecobrite' nuggets lately and noticed that stove behaves differently from other smokier and lively fuels that I used. The nuggets burn very clean and hot with a short red flame and there is no trace of smoke. What I am thinking here is that a high efficiency 80%+ stove is probably more choosy about its fuel than some of the lower efficiency 70% stove.
rpmcs wrote: » Hi. When you say you have a rear exit flue. How far does the flue run before it turns up the flue/ turns vertical ?
mrtom wrote: » Excellent detail again Joe. So I imagine smokeless ovoids would work. however the gases would flow into the room ?
WARNING – FUME EMISSION Properly installed and operated, this appliance will not emit fumes. Occasional fumes from de-ashing and refuelling may occur which is not normally of serious concern. However, persistent fume emission is potentially dangerous and must not be tolerated.
Digital Society wrote: » I have an open fire and now ive been given a Stanley Oisin that i want to fit in there. The Fireback seems tight enough. Can i get a smaller flu pipe to squeeze through? Or can i get a short flexible pipe that will squeeze through and bend up? Thanks
