STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Sanchez83

Contemporary product is normally expensive.
Have a look at the Thorma Andorra and Henley Zurich.
If you are looking for the best contemporary stove I'd give my vote to Contura though.

padraig.od

Maybe this belongs in consumer issues forum, but I'm wondering what people would do in this scenario?

Purchased an expensive boiler stove. Delivered last week. Plumber fitting it yesterday says that there is a pin-prick hole in the top. He can feel air coming out, and see some water. It is plainly defective.

I have talked to the store, and they are offering that someone from the manufacturer will come and repair it. Should I accept the repair, or should I look for an immediate replacement?

Markcheese

padraig.od wrote: »

Maybe this belongs in consumer issues forum, but I'm wondering what people would do in this scenario?

Purchased an expensive boiler stove. Delivered last week. Plumber fitting it yesterday says that there is a pin-prick hole in the top. He can feel air coming out, and see some water. It is plainly defective.

I have talked to the store, and they are offering that someone from the manufacturer will come and repair it. Should I accept the repair, or should I look for an immediate replacement?

Depends- if they can replace the defective boiler with a new one then all good.if the guy was gonna put a bit of weld here and there I'd be less than happy . Get the manufacturers rep to give you a bell and see what he says

k123456

Markcheese wrote: »

Depends- if they can replace the defective boiler with a new one then all good.if the guy was gonna put a bit of weld here and there I'd be less than happy . Get the manufacturers rep to give you a bell and see what he says

http://www.irishstatutebook.ie/1980/en/act/pub/0016/sec0010.html

"goods should be of merchantable quality"

elastico

k123456 wrote: »

http://www.irishstatutebook.ie/1980/en/act/pub/0016/sec0010.html

"goods should be of merchantable quality"

Yes, but the retailer has 3 options. Repair, replace or refund. The choice being his.

He could tell you to bring it back to the shop, which is expensive to do as you need to remove a heavy appliance to bring it back.

When it gets to the shop he could repair it with a bit of weld, sand it down, spray it etc. so you don't know what repair was done.

Or he could come to your home and do the exact same thing with less hassle for you.

Cerco

elastico wrote: »

Yes, but the retailer has 3 options. Repair, replace or refund. The choice being his.

He could tell you to bring it back to the shop, which is expensive to do as you need to remove a heavy appliance to bring it back.

When it gets to the shop he could repair it with a bit of weld, sand it down, spray it etc. so you don't know what repair was done.

Or he could come to your home and do the exact same thing with less hassle for you.

If the product was faulty on delivery then the OP has a strong case.
Repairs must be fit for purpose. A weld imho would not meet this criteria. Only a replacement boiler would be acceptable. The vendor would have the option of doing it at the purchasers home or elsewhere at the vendor's expense.

Dub_Jim_Royle

Hi,

We're looking to replace an open fire with a boiler stove. Probably 18kw output would be sufficient. 4kw to room.
Going to have heating zoned to 3 zones. Have gas heating as it is so will have heat exchange sorted etc. Just looking for stove advice.
Initially we were set on freestanding in current fireplace, obviously will need work to widen and possibly raise. From what we've seen 600 width is about as wide as we can go.
Priorities;
1. Freestanding
2. Traditional style

Very limited choices I think and we've nearly been turned to insert, but before we do has anyone got recommendations?

Thanks

padraig.od

Cerco wrote: »

If the product was faulty on delivery then the OP has a strong case.
Repairs must be fit for purpose. A weld imho would not meet this criteria. Only a replacement boiler would be acceptable. The vendor would have the option of doing it at the purchasers home or elsewhere at the vendor's expense.

Just to update, I am going to get a full replacement. A rep from the manufacturer called down to inspect.

I would have been pursuing above and bypassing the "repair" option. The stove the knackered from the start, not of merchantable quality.

Dub_Jim_Royle

padjo5 wrote: »

Can anyone give me a steer on this please?

Hi padjo5

Wondering if you went ahead with your job. I am thinking of doing the same kind of job. Looking for some advice.

Thanks
DJR

padjo5

Dub_Jim_Royle wrote: »

Hi padjo5

Wondering if you went ahead with your job. I am thinking of doing the same kind of job. Looking for some advice.

Thanks
DJR

Hi DJR, hopefully getting 'first phase' (chimney opening) in 2 weeks, had the builder out recently. There is a lot to consider, and can be tricky depending on year of the house. I would suggest you need to find someone who has experience of this sort of job, I have been assured that this guy does! If you are in the NE PM me and I will send details to you.

Am currently torn between Charnwood C7 and the Stovax Stockton 7, both produce similar KW, have seem both in the flesh, the C/Wood has great image and talks of quality etc. whatstove.co.uk reviews put them neck and neck. I am not convinced that C/Wood justify asking 600e more than the Stovax. Any thoughts, please??

Forever21

Hi all
Can some one please help me. Removed a Stanley aoife free standing as i felt it was taking over the room, room is only 12 x 14 . Got a Henley achill insert installed which looks lovely but the chimney Brest is hot when stove is lighting. No my chimney is not lined as when the stove was been fitted fitter said chimney clay pot was perfect . Rang fitter today to tell him chimney Brest was hot & asked him did he insulate the chamber box . Fitter said that chamber box didn't need to be insulated as it would only warp & explode if he insulated it. Does anyone know if this is correct . Would appreciate any advice please.

BarryD

Can anyone recommend a good quality rail cowl, preferably from an Irish supplier? I need to replace two chinaman type, one for a 6" flexible liner and the other on a twin wall rigid, again 6" internal pipe. Live in a windy area, so the basic ones with three legs that came with these just get ripped off each winter. Thanks.

nhealymoore

Not sure if this thread is dead? I've been reading Q&A and am so so so confused! I have an open fireplace (25yrs old) in small sitting room, 4.5m x 3.5m approx, 8ft celing. was looking at getting a room heater only: 5kw Cashel is a good price at the moment, anyone know about this stove? Have no idea what costs to expect for flue/lining/other bits n pieces and installation. Can anyone give me an idea of what costs to expect? I'm getting worried that it might cost a small fortune would really appreciate some guidance!!!! Thanks in advance!

HeidiHeidi

nhealymoore wrote: »

Not sure if this thread is dead? I've been reading Q&A and am so so so confused! I have an open fireplace (25yrs old) in small sitting room, 4.5m x 3.5m approx, 8ft celing. was looking at getting a room heater only: 5kw Cashel is a good price at the moment, anyone know about this stove? Have no idea what costs to expect for flue/lining/other bits n pieces and installation. Can anyone give me an idea of what costs to expect? I'm getting worried that it might cost a small fortune would really appreciate some guidance!!!! Thanks in advance!

I have no idea of the merits of the stove you're thinking of - but I can tell you that I have a 5/6kw freestanding stove fitted into a room roughly double what you've said (it's two rooms knocked into one, with single glazed windows), with a smallish kitchen off it, and a much higher ceiling - and I run it at its minimum most of the time and still have to open the door to the hall/upstairs sometimes.

Just be careful you don't wind up with too much heat in a small room. Stoves operate best (I'm led to believe, and experience would tell me also) at their upper capacity - I don't know if stoves come any smaller than 5/6kw but might be worth investigating.

I'm no expert, that's just my experience. Stove was fitted two years ago, and I love it to bits - but by golly it's hot when it gets going!!!

nhealymoore

HeidiHeidi wrote: »

I have no idea of the merits of the stove you're thinking of - but I can tell you that I have a 5/6kw freestanding stove fitted into a room roughly double what you've said (it's two rooms knocked into one, with single glazed windows), with a smallish kitchen off it, and a much higher ceiling - and I run it at its minimum most of the time and still have to open the door to the hall/upstairs sometimes.

Just be careful you don't wind up with too much heat in a small room. Stoves operate best (I'm led to believe, and experience would tell me also) at their upper capacity - I don't know if stoves come any smaller than 5/6kw but might be worth investigating.

I'm no expert, that's just my experience. Stove was fitted two years ago, and I love it to bits - but by golly it's hot when it gets going!!!

Thanks a mill Heidi, I better look into that

I know prices have pribible changed since you got your stove in. Would you mind saying what price you ended up paying for installation and parts? (Excluding cost of the actual stove)

HeidiHeidi

nhealymoore wrote: »

Thanks a mill Heidi, I better look into that

I know prices have pribible changed since you got your stove in. Would you mind saying what price you ended up paying for installation and parts? (Excluding cost of the actual stove)

I can't remember the breakdown of the costs, I'm afraid - but it wasn't cheap!

Having said that, I had to get two (fairly high) storeys of chimney liner, and I went for a stove at the upper end of the range, and had the whole lot fitted start to finish.

I don't regret a penny of it, mind you - best money I've spent in a long time!

Sorry I can't be more helpful re costs - if it's any use I can PM the supplier/fitters I used if you're in the Dublin/Leinster area - I was very happy with the service and maybe they could give you a quote or advise you.

nhealymoore

HeidiHeidi wrote: »

I can't remember the breakdown of the costs, I'm afraid - but it wasn't cheap!

Having said that, I had to get two (fairly high) storeys of chimney liner, and I went for a stove at the upper end of the range, and had the whole lot fitted start to finish.

I don't regret a penny of it, mind you - best money I've spent in a long time!

Sorry I can't be more helpful re costs - if it's any use I can PM the supplier/fitters I used if you're in the Dublin/Leinster area - I was very happy with the service and maybe they could give you a quote or advise you.

That would be great! I'm just outside of Dublin so would really appreciate a recommendation Thanks again Heidi!

mrtom

MOD: RECOMMENDATIONS BY PM ONLY PRETTY PLEASE

Dub_Jim_Royle

Hi Padjo,

Thanks for that. The more research I do the harder it gets! I looked at the stoves you mentioned but don't think they'll suit my setup.
At the moment I'm looking at Hunter Herald 8/14, Inis Meain or Charnwood.
Seems to be huge variations in prices. Where did you go for in the end?

Thanks

Foxinzebox

Hi all, have been reading though most of the thread and some great advice on the different stoves available. I'm probably going to ask a few questions that have been asked umpteen times but here it goes.

Currently doing a new build, and we are going putting in a stove with a back boiler, heating is going to be zoned hot water and then 7 double rads downstairs and 8 double rads upstairs. The room where the stove is going in is kitchen/dining room which is 53 square yards and this extends out to a sun room which is 16 sq yards.

Have looked at numerous models to go with hunter 80b, stratford eb20, Charnwood 16b etc. I am leaning towards the Henley Druid 25kw, it's a fine looking stove and seems to have the right output for the room and the price is very reasonable compared to the other stoves mentioned above. Has anyone any experience of the Henley Druid 25kw and how it has worked for them?

Finally I was under the impression that since I was putting in a stove that I would need or certainly would be good practice to put in a flue liner but my plumber has told me there is no need as it is a new build. I had priced the 904 grade just to be sure, could anyone advise me this?

A long post but any help would be greatly appreciated.

BarryD

Foxinzebox wrote: »

Hi all, have been reading though most of the thread and some great advice on the different stoves available. I'm probably going to ask a few questions that have been asked umpteen times but here it goes.

Currently doing a new build, and we are going putting in a stove with a back boiler, heating is going to be zoned hot water and then 7 double rads downstairs and 8 double rads upstairs. The room where the stove is going in is kitchen/dining room which is 53 square yards and this extends out to a sun room which is 16 sq yards.

Have looked at numerous models to go with hunter 80b, stratford eb20, Charnwood 16b etc. I am leaning towards the Henley Druid 25kw, it's a fine looking stove and seems to have the right output for the room and the price is very reasonable compared to the other stoves mentioned above. Has anyone any experience of the Henley Druid 25kw and how it has worked for them?

Finally I was under the impression that since I was putting in a stove that I would need or certainly would be good practice to put in a flue liner but my plumber has told me there is no need as it is a new build. I had priced the 904 grade just to be sure, could anyone advise me this?

A long post but any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'd assume what your plumber means is that as this is a new build, the chimney should be properly lined with built in flue liners as it's being constructed? We installed a flue liner here but only because the old chimney was suffering from age and no liners in it when it was built!

That's a lot of double rads to run off a solid fuel stove? I guess it depends on their size and the stove output but you'll be going through a fair bit of fuel, I'd guess to keep them going.

We put in single panel rads on the basis that we'd prefer to have a decent heat from single panel rather than cooler double panel.

You can read all you want about heat outputs etc. but at the end of the day, a solid fuel system that you feed yourself is essentially fairly simple - you get out of it what fuel you put in! If you're sticking logs and coal in, you soon get a good idea of what you're using and what's needed in different weather. As opposed to oil boilers which are driven by a thermostat and fuel input is only indirectly in your control.

We tend to find that the system works best in winter when the stove is lit each day and around midday. That way the hot water tank is still fairly warm and doesn't take long before the water is hot enough for the pump to kick in and circulate downstairs rads.

Edited to add that attention to insulation and draft proofing, combined with adequate air circulation - will have a big impact of what you need and how hot the stove needs to run etc.

Foxinzebox

Thanks for your reply BarryD

Yeah that's precisely what the plumber told me, well in relation to downstairs I reckon I might only be using 3 to 4 of double rads downstairs and 5 to 6 upstairs so even if I wanted both upstairs and downstairs on at the same time for an hour or town in the evening then the 25kw henley should be able to handle it, in theory anyway.

I have a lot of access to timber so that is not my worry and according to fella I'm buying stove off in his opinion dry timber gives the best heat, better than coal according to him which I was surprised bye as I thought coal would give better heat.

BarryD

No problem... we use a mixture of 'Country Blend' smokeless fuel/ anthracite and timber. They go well together but coal/ anthracite definitely produces more heat and circulating hot water over just timber.

If you don't want to use the upstairs rads some of the time, you either have to turn them off individually or zone them. Remember hot water rises and cooler water falls, so the water from the stove boiler will naturally heat upstairs rads first if left to its own devices. This is useful by the way, if you have a power cut and the circulating pump can't run. You can still run your stove, not too hot!, and the water will circulate and cool as it goes around the upstairs rads in that natural circulation.

The only other small point to add, but which you or your plumber should know already, is to make sure you have a steady incline upwards on the main flow from the stove back boiler to the hot water cylinder and a corresponding fall on the return to the stove - for the same reason as above. Someone advised me to run the pipe straight up for 2-3 feet from the boiler and then incline gently to the cylinder - this is on same floor level but raised on a wee column of blocks. Ditto from cylinder, a drop then gently sloping down back to boiler. Works well here

Foxinzebox

Well the house is broken down into 3 zones, upstairs, downstairs and hot water, and as I say in previous post it might only be an hour or two in the evening where you will need to het upstairs aswell as downstairs.

That's an interesting point and on the slight incline to the cylinder, we have concrete ceilings and all the pipes were laid a good while ago for that and the cylinder is upstairs from the stove.

What stove have you yourself BarryD?

Dtp1979

Foxinzebox wrote: »

Well the house is broken down into 3 zones, upstairs, downstairs and hot water, and as I say in previous post it might only be an hour or two in the evening where you will need to het upstairs aswell as downstairs.

That's an interesting point and on the slight incline to the cylinder, we have concrete ceilings and all the pipes were laid a good while ago for that and the cylinder is upstairs from the stove.

What stove have you yourself BarryD?

If you have upstairs, downstairs and HW zoned then upstairs will NOT heat if there's a powercut, unless it's piped via gravity circuit which every house in the last 50 years isn't. Plus you'd need to remove the zone valve. Having a rise on the flow is one of the most basic of all requirements. You'll also need to change your cylinder to a dual coil, and make sure your plumber understands solid fuel pipework, especially when joining into an existing fully zoned heating system

BarryD

Foxinzebox wrote: »

What stove have you yourself BarryD?

Waterford Erin

Dtp1979 wrote: »

If you have upstairs, downstairs and HW zoned then upstairs will NOT heat if there's a powercut, unless it's piped via gravity circuit which every house in the last 50 years isn't. Plus you'd need to remove the zone valve. Having a rise on the flow is one of the most basic of all requirements. You'll also need to change your cylinder to a dual coil, and make sure your plumber understands solid fuel pipework, especially when joining into an existing fully zoned heating system

This is true, I had a zone valve on some of the upstairs rads and ended up disabling it for this reason. Whilst the ESB is lot more reliable in this rural area in the last 15 year or so, we do still suffer occasional outages during storms - sometimes days at a time in recent past winters.

So essentially we have a permanent gravity circuit to all the upstairs rads now, which is OK since the house is occupied 24 hrs. When installing the system, I also put thermostatic valves on some of the rads but to be honest, I'm not convinced they contribute much in a solid fuel heating situation. As I say above, you get out what you put in in terms of fuel.

Ours is a 'traditional' system - with a small header tank in the attic and an expansion pipe running back up to that in case of overheating in the boiler circuit.

Dtp1979

BarryD wrote: »

Waterford Erin



This is true, I had a zone valve on some of the upstairs rads and ended up disabling it for this reason. Whilst the ESB is lot more reliable in this rural area in the last 15 year or so, we do still suffer occasional outages during storms - sometimes days at a time in recent past winters.

So essentially we have a permanent gravity circuit to all the upstairs rads now, which is OK since the house is occupied 24 hrs. When installing the system, I also put thermostatic valves on some of the rads but to be honest, I'm not convinced they contribute much in a solid fuel heating situation. As I say above, you get out what you put in in terms of fuel.

Ours is a 'traditional' system - with a small header tank in the attic and an expansion pipe running back up to that in case of overheating in the boiler circuit.

Are you sure you have a gravity system on all your rads upstairs? This would be extremely rare in any type of modern house built in the last 40 years. Maybe a few of the rads are heating by conduction?

BarryD

Dtp1979 wrote: »

Are you sure you have a gravity system on all your rads upstairs? This would be extremely rare in any type of modern house built in the last 40 years. Maybe a few of the rads are heating by conduction?

Well.. I plumbed it myself and when the stove is lit, the rads upstairs (that are tuned on) heat at first, along with the cylinder. I have a thermostat on the primary circuit between the stove and cylinder and when this reaches a given temp., the circulating pump for the other rads downstairs switches in. Works ok

Dtp1979

BarryD wrote: »

Well.. I plumbed it myself and when the stove is lit, the rads upstairs (that are tuned on) heat at first, along with the cylinder. I have a thermostat on the primary circuit between the stove and cylinder and when this reaches a given temp., the circulating pump for the other rads downstairs switches in. Works ok

There's no harm in the upstairs heating as long as you've the primary circuit to the cylinder done correctly I guess.

k123456

Hi Folks, have a stove installed a couple of years, and the sealant between the flue and stove top, looks a little loose cracked

Should I chip it away and apply new fire cement
or is there a high temp sealant available, that is flexible

I think what happens over time, is stove and/or flu expands contracts and this causes the cement to crack slightly, loosen up

Wonder would a flexible hi temp sealer be better ?

Thanks



I am using this stove, burning wood only never coal

http://borustoves.ie/shop/boiler-stoves/carraig-mor-20kw-freestanding-boiler-stoves/