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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    schmittel wrote: »
    I am hoping to install boiler stove to do central heating only, not hot water, as per previous post.

    if a 20k stove for example has output of 8 to the room and 12 to the water to heat approx 14 rads - if there is no requirement to heat hot water will it heat more rads?

    Sorry if that's a dumb question!
    If it is putting out 12kw to water, some if it would be used to heat the cylinder, but the cylinder when its heated up, will no longer be taking heat from the stove, apart from losses which would be low on insulated cylinders, and as hot water is used.

    So realistically, when the cylinder is heated up, the full 12kw would be going to the radiators.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 32 arbf1


    Hi I am just wondering if anyone could advise me what to do with 2 large bags vermiculite I have left over from installing stove. Unfortunately they both have slight tear on top so shop won't take them back. They are unused and in perfect condition. I have them taped and in the spare bedroom as didn't want them being ruined but they are taking up space. Don't want to throw them away as they are worth 60 euro. I have the receipt. Also have a back boiler from open fire, grate and bits to go with it, a single radiator and a fireplace. I'm not trying to advertise I just need advice on what to do with them or if anyone knows where I could sell them on...feel free to PM. Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,189 ✭✭✭k123456


    arbf1 wrote: »
    Hi I am just wondering if anyone could advise me what to do with 2 large bags vermiculite I have left over from installing stove. Unfortunately they both have slight tear on top so shop won't take them back. They are unused and in perfect condition. I have them taped and in the spare bedroom as didn't want them being ruined but they are taking up space. Don't want to throw them away as they are worth 60 euro. I have the receipt. Also have a back boiler from open fire, grate and bits to go with it, a single radiator and a fireplace. I'm not trying to advertise I just need advice on what to do with them or if anyone knows where I could sell them on...feel free to PM. Thanks.

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9 addisb


    Hi all,
    Hope I am not hijacking anyone's thread here. Hope it is in the right place.
    Recently installed a Yeoman Stove and Heat Genie. First class piece of kit, delighted with performance and safety features. The system is fitted with 2 Lowara Pumps. 1 circulates the rads/DHW heating coil etc. and the second the stove water. All working fine except when the stove gets up to good operating temperature then the ( Stove ) circulating system sounds as if a tap is running - water trickling. Coming from around the pump which is on the return. I thought perhaps there was air in the system but the pump has been bled and there is an auto air vent at the top of the system ( which is now closed ! ) Once the system cools the noise is gone, there's only the hum of the pump motor. Wondering if this is potentially long term damaging only just annoying /( turn up the telly ! ) Would appreciate any replies / thoughts.
    Best Regards,
    Chris


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 570 ✭✭✭Jane98


    I am looking for a multi fuel room heater stove 9-10 kw and went to a stove shop at the weekend.

    Was advised to buy a steel stove as they heat up much quicker than cast iron. The Charnwood Island II was recommended to me at a cost of €1600.

    Anyone an opinion on this stove and whether steel is best? Other recommendations also appreciated.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,189 ✭✭✭k123456


    Hi Any experience of these
    http://www.dineensales.com/downloads/dinboardSheet.pdf


    How heat resistant are they, reason I ask, i want to make an outdoor wood fired pizza over/bbq , which will be clad in ;
    http://www.stonepanels.ie/stone_gallery/index.html

    Can these panels take the heat of wood burning, in the same way a stove can
    or are they more for the surround of a stove , ie wall behind it

    I have a stove, and the idea is , as I have quiet a bit of logs , use some logs for pizza oven/bbq
    https://www.google.ie/search?q=wood+fired+pizza+oven&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=643&site=webhp&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=p01SVdLsIsa07gapj4LADw&sqi=2&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G




  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,833 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    When our chimney was being built the blocklayer made a b*lls of the chimney, there are 2 lintels under the flue gatherer, there is a 4'' stove pipe fitted. We want to buy a new stove, is it possible to fit a 6 inch stovepipe? I don't think a 6 inch pipe can be reduced to 4 inches. Any advice?

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,317 ✭✭✭naughtysmurf


    We got one of these installed recently, 6.6kw, happy with it, we have been using it even though the weather is mild just to get familiar with it, it's not running any rads

    My questions, it has airwash technology which is supposed to keep the glass clean, doesn't keep ours clean, is this just sales patter?

    What fuel gets you the best bang heatwise for your buck? when we had the open fire, a bag of polish & a bale of briquettes a week in the cold weather would get us through, we have been using blocks & small bit of turf in the stove, but we are horsing through the ash & birch blocks

    Thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Turf equals dirty glass.
    Timber must be dry and have a moisture content below 20%.
    Lever on the left side must be open to keep glass clean. This allows hot air to travel over the glass keeping it clean.
    Best fuel is kiln dried timber,the harder the wood the longer it should last.
    If you are using more than 4 logs in the first hour and 3 every hour after based on a moisture content of below 20% than there is something up.
    Do you close the primary air wheel after the first 30 mins? If not this will keep air travelling through the stove and over burning the fuel.
    If you are closing the wheel and it's still over burning you probably have a chimney draught issue.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,317 ✭✭✭naughtysmurf


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Turf equals dirty glass.
    Timber must be dry and have a moisture content below 20%.
    Lever on the left side must be open to keep glass clean. This allows hot air to travel over the glass keeping it clean.
    Best fuel is kiln dried timber,the harder the wood the longer it should last.
    If you are using more than 4 logs in the first hour and 3 every hour after based on a moisture content of below 20% than there is something up.
    Do you close the primary air wheel after the first 30 mins? If not this will keep air travelling through the stove and over burning the fuel.
    If you are closing the wheel and it's still over burning you probably have a chimney draught issue.

    Ok, good to know about the turf, the timber we are using is dry with low moisture content,
    As regards the lever, the Henley video on their website shows pushing that lever upwards after fire is going, is that the open position? & closing the primary air wheel

    Yes we close the the primary air wheel, today I didn't need to leave it open for more than 10mins after lighting with firelighters, kindling & 3 blocks

    Three logs an hour is ok? thought that would be a lot tbh, €8 for a net of ash. if it lasted for three days, say two a week, isn't any cheaper than coal?

    All a bit of a learning curve


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    A net of Ash at e8.Sounds expensive!
    Where are you buying this? If from a garage I can guarantee it doesn't have a low moisture content.
    At 3 an hour I was covering my estimate really.4 every 2hrs would be about the norm.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 375 ✭✭tbukela


    Folks, any opinions/recommendations on the Thormia brand of wood burners? I like some of the designs and they seem to be cheaper than some of the Stovax/Dovre ones.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,327 ✭✭✭splashthecash


    Hi all,

    We are thinking of purchasing an insert stove for this coming winter. We are not interested in a boiler stove, so just heat for the sitting room itself will be sufficient.

    Some questions...

    There was a gas fire installed in the sitting room when we moved in, but I had that taken out and we had a few open fires in the fireplace...but there is no split down the centre of the base so i don't know if that'll work. Ideally, I would like to have a one stop shop with whoever we go with in that they will come and take a look at the current fireplace and tell us if it'll work, and if so, they will tell us what size Kw stove we should be looking for and after we select it, they'll come down and install everything.

    Does anyone have any recommendations of places in the Leinster area (specifically Kildare) that would do this level of service?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 534 ✭✭✭knockon


    Hi
    We have an open plan with a sitting room 16 x 18 which is where the stove will be and where we spend the evenings and arch way from that to a kitchen of 14 x 10 and another room with an open door way of 16 x 16 feet with one of the walls all glass. I have supplementary heating in the whole area with central heating and a huge farraho electric heater. I am thinking of getting a Aarrow i600 7.5kw -10kw Multi fuel insert stove not connected to back boiler or rads. Its €2450 inclusive of VAT and builders work...sound ok?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,317 ✭✭✭naughtysmurf


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    A net of Ash at e8.Sounds expensive!
    Where are you buying this? If from a garage I can guarantee it doesn't have a low moisture content.
    At 3 an hour I was covering my estimate really.4 every 2hrs would be about the norm.

    Not a garage, a fuel supplier in Limerick, I also bought a bag of smokeless stove fuel, this seems to have helped considerably, use about six pieces when lighting, this leaves a nice red bed for the blocks, heat output is up & not using as many blocks at all,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    Currently building a new house with UFH and very well insulated. The freestanding, wood burning stove with external air inlet will sit in the corner of the kitchen/dining area which is 5m by 7m and 8 and half foot ceilings. There will be double doors leading into a living room which is 4.6m x 5m and hope to be able to heat this also with the stove.

    Can someone please recommend a suitable output? Also, what about any of these as potential suitors?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 534 ✭✭✭knockon


    knockon wrote: »
    Hi
    We have an open plan with a sitting room 16 x 18 which is where the stove will be and where we spend the evenings and arch way from that to a kitchen of 14 x 10 and another room with an open door way of 16 x 16 feet with one of the walls all glass. I have supplementary heating in the whole area with central heating and a huge farraho electric heater. I am thinking of getting a Aarrow i600 7.5kw -10kw Multi fuel insert stove not connected to back boiler or rads. Its €2450 inclusive of VAT and builders work...sound ok?

    Anyone?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 179 ✭✭therealmccoy


    knockon wrote: »
    Hi
    We have an open plan with a sitting room 16 x 18 which is where the stove will be and where we spend the evenings and arch way from that to a kitchen of 14 x 10 and another room with an open door way of 16 x 16 feet with one of the walls all glass. I have supplementary heating in the whole area with central heating and a huge farraho electric heater. I am thinking of getting a Aarrow i600 7.5kw -10kw Multi fuel insert stove not connected to back boiler or rads. Its €2450 inclusive of VAT and builders work...sound ok?

    Ya, seems ok, might get a little hot in the immediate room after a while.
    Price seems ok depending on the work.
    That stove retails around the 1600e mark so depending on flue (Im guessing flexi?) and what ever else needs to be done it doesnt seem too far off the mark.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 534 ✭✭✭knockon


    Ya, seems ok, might get a little hot in the immediate room after a while.
    Price seems ok depending on the work.
    That stove retails around the 1600e mark so depending on flue (Im guessing flexi?) and what ever else needs to be done it doesnt seem too far off the mark.

    Good man - thanks


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,116 ✭✭✭wilser


    Am going to fit a stove in the next couple of weeks and I am looking for a bit of advice.

    The stove has four water connections,
    Is it best practise to use two of these for the hot water and the other two for the rads, our just use opposite sides for both?
    Its as easy to do it either way atm so just wanted to see if it made a difference which way to do it.
    Haven't fit a back boiler/stove system in about 20 years so am out of the loop a bit.
    Thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    wilser wrote: »
    Am going to fit a stove in the next couple of weeks and I am looking for a bit of advice.

    The stove has four water connections,
    Is it best practise to use two of these for the hot water and the other two for the rads, our just use opposite sides for both?
    Its as easy to do it either way atm so just wanted to see if it made a difference which way to do it.
    Haven't fit a back boiler/stove system in about 20 years so am out of the loop a bit.
    Thanks
    I installed a stove recently, connecting it into a gas sealed system via a heat genie, and as such, used just 2 ports.

    Another stove I installed last year I used all 4, one set for the cylinder coil to heat via gravity, and the other set for the radiators. Using all 4 eliminates the problem of the radiator circuit flowing through the cylinder coil and back out to radiators, thus avoiding properly flowing back through the stove.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,921 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Bruthal wrote: »
    I installed a stove recently, connecting it into a gas sealed system via a heat genie, and as such, used just 2 ports.

    Another stove I installed last year I used all 4, one set for the cylinder coil to heat via gravity, and the other set for the radiators. Using all 4 eliminates the problem of the radiator circuit flowing through the cylinder coil and back out to radiators, thus avoiding properly flowing back through the stove.

    Or just use an injector tee. If it's possible, use all 4 ports. Use opposite corners, as in top right bottom left for rads and opposite for hot water.
    But using 2 ports can work perfectly fine too if plumbed correctly. Always use opposite corners


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Or just use an injector tee.

    Can do that alright if only 2 ports can be used.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    wilser wrote: »
    Am going to fit a stove in the next couple of weeks and I am looking for a bit of advice.

    The stove has four water connections,
    Is it best practise to use two of these for the hot water and the other two for the rads, our just use opposite sides for both?
    Its as easy to do it either way atm so just wanted to see if it made a difference which way to do it.
    Haven't fit a back boiler/stove system in about 20 years so am out of the loop a bit.
    Thanks
    Here are some diagrams of both setups, using 4 ports or 2, including an injector t for the 2 port setup, and the bottom diagram shows the effect of using 2 ports without the t.

    They are not complete diagrams, but show the 2 and 4 port setups at least. The feed pipe etc is not shown.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 144 ✭✭THE DON FANUCCI


    well guys, I'm starting a new build. 2,300 sq ft. two storey. Oil central heating and a back boiler.15 rads.

    is there a regulation that says i need solar panels to fulfil the renewable energy requirement for a new build??
    or will my wooden log stove with back boiler cover the renewable energy requirement? (PS i hate the sight of solar panels)
    excuse me because i know sweet f-all about plumbing!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    Blowheads wrote: »
    We had a DRU 64 stove, very, very good. Be careful where you are putting it, that the room is of the correct size. It could "melt" you

    Is this the wood burning or multi-fuel and what fuel did you use? Also what' the room size? I'm looking at the 55 and 64 models (both wood burning only).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,189 ✭✭✭k123456


    well guys, I'm starting a new build. 2,300 sq ft. two storey. Oil central heating and a back boiler.15 rads.

    is there a regulation that says i need solar panels to fulfil the renewable energy requirement for a new build??
    or will my wooden log stove with back boiler cover the renewable energy requirement? (PS i hate the sight of solar panels)
    excuse me because i know sweet f-all about plumbing!!

    It certainly is debatable whether solar will pay for itself , in your case you will be generating a lot of hot water from your wooden log stove with back boiler

    For our build, we decided against solar
    We generate lots of hot water, from the wood burner

    It would have taken 26 years for the solar to pay for itself. This payback does not include
    maintenance of solar panels, system
    loss of efficiency over time


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 855 ✭✭✭beveragelady


    Hi,
    Does anybody know what make this stove is? It's in the house I bought and I'd like to get specific info on maintenance, suitable fuels etc. I can't find a maker's mark on it anywhere. I think it was installed around 2008, and there's a good chance it was specially imported by the previous owner.
    Any info at all would be a help.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,383 ✭✭✭olestoepoke


    Hi guys, I've bought a stratford eb20 and a heat genie, I'm now looking for an installer. Its not as easy as i thought can anyone recommend a good plumber with experience installing boiler stoves, i phoned a few different plumbers and some of them had never heard of a heat genie so that was a red flag. thanks


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